Hi all, Im new to the board and there is really alot of great info here. Im having a new garage built and the concrete will be poured within a week. I know I need to wait aleast a month to do the epoxy paint but was wondering since I will have heated floors in the garage will I have any problem when putting down the epoxy? Do I heat up the floor and then turn off the heat and paint the floor on the cool down. The outside temps will probably be in the 40's in the day and 30's at night. I plan on using the 100% solid type paints. I still dont know which brand to use yet but after reading some of the threads there is quite few to choose from. Ive looked into epoxy-coat and armorclad. Haven't checked out wolverine or dovoe yet. Are there web sites for these and are they a DIY kit.
Heated floores and paint
- Thread starter judgethis
- Start date
SC-Eric
Well-known member
It looks like you are doing some research. Yes... but... you may also want to do the first coat in the late afternoon as well.
Next you can get information about Wolverine Coatings products by contacting Fred at AlphaGarage. (http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/member.php?u=22680)
You'll find superior products and service from Fred!
nnickles66
New member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2008
- Messages
- 1
hey there guys,
I'll be putting up a new outbuilding for storing bus/boat, etc... and as far as the heated concrete goes, was this a DIY or did you have an expert in for that?
Ned
I'll be putting up a new outbuilding for storing bus/boat, etc... and as far as the heated concrete goes, was this a DIY or did you have an expert in for that?
Ned
'the epoxy floor guy'
Well-known member
Installing you floor when it is in a heating trend would make the problem of outgassing that plagues the 100% solid epoxies more likely.
When the floor heats up it expands the objects and materials around it making the gases expand and look for a place to escape. With a SLOW curing thick epoxy as the gas is escaping it bubbles up from underneath. At a certain point the surface of the epoxy 'skins' over and does not allow the forming gas pocket to escape. Thus forming the permanent 'bubble' and unsightly 'creators'.
IF you are using this type of epoxy you would POTENTIALLY avoid this problem by coating it on a 'down' cycle of heat. Simply shutting off the heat source 2-3 hours before you begin should solve this problem.
The other solution would be to us a FASTER curing system. OR by adding a moisture (vapor) barrier primer you can avoid the outgassing problem completely. It does add an additional step but the primer is LOW COST and easy to install. It would also aid if there is a question of the floor sticking down. The additional cost of this step is MUCH cheaper than having to 'sand' off all the little 'spagetti-O's' i call them, and installing an additional top coat.
for most products as long as the SURFACE temp is over 40 degrees you are fine. check with your products label to be certain.
When the floor heats up it expands the objects and materials around it making the gases expand and look for a place to escape. With a SLOW curing thick epoxy as the gas is escaping it bubbles up from underneath. At a certain point the surface of the epoxy 'skins' over and does not allow the forming gas pocket to escape. Thus forming the permanent 'bubble' and unsightly 'creators'.
IF you are using this type of epoxy you would POTENTIALLY avoid this problem by coating it on a 'down' cycle of heat. Simply shutting off the heat source 2-3 hours before you begin should solve this problem.
The other solution would be to us a FASTER curing system. OR by adding a moisture (vapor) barrier primer you can avoid the outgassing problem completely. It does add an additional step but the primer is LOW COST and easy to install. It would also aid if there is a question of the floor sticking down. The additional cost of this step is MUCH cheaper than having to 'sand' off all the little 'spagetti-O's' i call them, and installing an additional top coat.
for most products as long as the SURFACE temp is over 40 degrees you are fine. check with your products label to be certain.
Thanks for the response guys. Deciding on an epoxy paint can be very overwhelming. They finally poured my slab on Friday the 14th. It makes the garage seem bigger. They did a great job.
'nnickles66' Im having the builder install the manifolds and heater. Im not sure what type he's using. I used Pex tubing in the floor. It will be heated with gas. Now I have to wait to paint.
I talked to Fred at AlphaGarage, Very knowledgable, and he has a paint that you put down within 12 hours of pouring. Wish I would have talked to him earlier. Now I have to wait a month.
'the epoxy floor guy' you mentioned a moisture barrier primer. Where could I get that and should you prime the concrete before using any type of solid epoxy paint. Will the primer mix well with any brand or should it be brand specific. This is so overwhelming.
'nnickles66' Im having the builder install the manifolds and heater. Im not sure what type he's using. I used Pex tubing in the floor. It will be heated with gas. Now I have to wait to paint.
I talked to Fred at AlphaGarage, Very knowledgable, and he has a paint that you put down within 12 hours of pouring. Wish I would have talked to him earlier. Now I have to wait a month.
'the epoxy floor guy' you mentioned a moisture barrier primer. Where could I get that and should you prime the concrete before using any type of solid epoxy paint. Will the primer mix well with any brand or should it be brand specific. This is so overwhelming.
SC-Eric
Well-known member
Moisture barriers are installed UNDER the concrete. So... if it's already poured it's too late. Anyway, just keep up with Fred and he'll walk you through this and take all of the 'overwhelming' out of it. It's really not that big of a deal when you have the right advice with the right products.
'the epoxy floor guy'
Well-known member
We have it available at our site. PM me if you want more details. You can use our Primer and coat it with ours or any top seal you want.