Heater has lost its mind...

[geneb]

My ADP Cayenne (FOAP75) propane heater went into thumb twiddling mode last week after I turned off the thermostat for the day. (moved it from HEAT to OFF)

Normally when I do this, the fan will run for a short period of time after the gas is turned off - I figure to cool the heating pipes. Well I find out on Thursday, that the fan had been going since I turned it on.

The manual I have on the unit provides *zero* by way of troubleshooting information and Google searches have come up dry.

Can someone recommend what I can try to make this beast behave?
I've tried swapping out thermostats just in case and that didn't change the behavior. Setting the thermostat to HEAT doesn't seem to do anything either.

[edit: I should also note that the logic board's LED is blinking 4 times in sequence indicating a "High Limit or Rollout Switch" open" condition. Of course there's no description in the manual of what/where this device is....]

Help!

Thanks folks!

g.

 

[dropride]

I belive that is the same heater as the hot dawg, theres a few threads about that same problem

 

[MartyO]

Call one of these numbers tomorrow and I believe you will get the help you need.

BURTON, OH 800-883-0234 • ADEL, IA 888-693-1473 • BATAVIA, IL 800-413-0924 • KANSAS CITY, KS 888-713-9009 • BELLEVILLE, MI 800-883-2234 • JENISON, MI 800-883-4234 • KALAMAZOO, MI 800-883-7234
MINNEAPOLIS, MN 800-798-2891• LANCASTER, NY 800-883-3234 • PORTLAND, OH 800-843-2830 • XENIA, OH 800-883-5234 • HARMONY, PA 800-883-8234 • DeFOREST, WI 800-269-8816

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Most likely the heater has a thermostatically controlled fan switch. Turn on heater, heater gets hot, temp switch cuts fan on, wall thermostat shuts off fire, fan continues to run till the combustion chamber is cooled off and temp switch switches it off (probably about 125°F). Fan might even kick on again to cool it down some more.

Sounds like this temp switch is stuck on.

Charles

 

[geneb]

Thanks for the info guys - I dug into the machine a bit more and could find no (obviously) resettable devices in it and I've not been able to locate an illustrated parts diagram, so I have no real way of positively identifying any of the components beyond the main logic board. I'm going to have to call the company that does service on my heat pump and see what they can do to fix this thing. It's annoying that the manufacturer seems to go out of their way to make these things as difficult as possible to repair or diagnose.

g.

 

[MartyO]

It's annoying that the manufacturer seems to go out of their way to make these things as difficult as possible to repair or diagnose.

g.

I wouldn't give up hope just yet.

I had a hot water heater that was flashing a code from an LED on a circuit board. I called the manufacturer and they next dayed a free replacement control board to me (plus heating elements which I did not need or ask for) and I was back online in no time. Did I mention it didn't cost me a penny?

 

[brewchief]

Thanks for the info guys - I dug into the machine a bit more and could find no (obviously) resettable devices in it and I've not been able to locate an illustrated parts diagram, so I have no real way of positively identifying any of the components beyond the main logic board. I'm going to have to call the company that does service on my heat pump and see what they can do to fix this thing. It's annoying that the manufacturer seems to go out of their way to make these things as difficult as possible to repair or diagnose.

g.

The very first result from a Google search netted me both a troubleshooting guide and a parts diagram Combine that with a multimeter and you should know exactly what is wrong in about five minutes.

 

[bdkruger1]

Did you try killing the power to it and restarting?

 

[nehog]

...

[edit: I should also note that the logic board's LED is blinking 4 times in sequence indicating a "High Limit or Rollout Switch" open" condition. Of course there's no description in the manual of what/where this device is....]
...

Most likely the high limit switch is what is causing the fan to run full time, trying to cool off the 'over heated' heat exchanger. Sounds like a broken wire, if it says switch open, maybe a careful inspection of the wiring (with the power off!) will show a problem?

 

[DoyleDee]

Check and see if it has a clixon (clicks on). I have seen automatic and manual reset types. What it is, is a bi-metal internal switch that will go bad after time. On your heater you should have a schematic inside one of the doors or panels- see if it is N.O. or N.C. ... if it is (normally open- N.O.) it should be an open circuit with a multimeter, if it is (normally closed- N.C.) it should be a closed circuit. This would be my first guess as to what went wrong.

 

[geneb]

brewchief: Your Google-Fu is obviously stronger than mine. Care to share the links?

The "dragging out the multi-meter" suggestion resulted in a huge facepalm. I should have thought of that - I'm not used to thinking in that mode. *laughs*

Thanks folks.

g.