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Heater size...

burgie

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Mar 26, 2007
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Falcon, Colorado
Greetings,

As I read some threads I am seeing folks who installed (what I think are) rather small natural gas heaters in their shops (similar in size to mine) with apparent success. Maybe I am doing something wrong here but below is the formula for determining heater size I found online:

insulation quality x total cubic feet x desired heat rise) / 1.6 = Btu required

Before proceeding, here is a snapshot of my shop:

Size & Configuration:
30’ x 48” w/ 16’ walls. Ceiling is NOT flat but a raised collar design with a 2.5”/12” rise per foot run for the first 9’-3” from the walls and the center 12’ or so is flat and just shy of 18’ from the floor.

Floor:
Floor is 6” fiberglass reinforced 4000# concrete

Walls:
Walls are hemlock 2x8 – 16” O/C with R30 un-faced fiberglass insulation with 6 mil clear polyethylene plastic for a vapor barrier with all joints taped with Tyvek tape. Outside walls are 15/32” OSB, Tyvek w/ taped joints, 5/4” rim board, corners and window/door trim. Siding is ½” x 16” x 16’ engineered siding. Walls rest on 2x8 pressure treated sill w/ sill seal polystyrene insulation. Silicone beads were applied on the concrete foundation and again on the sill seal before bolting the walls down.
The interior walls will be 1x6 T&G pine for the first 9’ and the rest of the walls and ceiling will be ½” drywall.

Ceiling:
Ceiling will receive R38 un-faced

Openings:
I have six (6) 2'x4" awning windows, thermapane double insulated windows, one (1) 36" fiberglass insulated entry door and one (1) 12' x 12" Overhead Door with a R17.9 rating.


As I plug in the values I am using 0.5 x 23,040 x 30/1.6 whereas:

insulation quality x total cubic feet x desired heat rise) / 1.6 = Btu required

In this formula, use "5" for no insulation, "1.5" for little insulation, "1" for average insulation and "0.5" for very good insulation. I figured a heat rise of 25°F - 30°F so
0.5 * 23,040 * 30/1.6 = 216K BHT heater
Is this right? If it is should I go to 200K or 250K?

I am reading that some folks with structures similar in size as mine are using a 100K heater with success?? Am I missing something here? I realize maybe there are other factors that I may not be taking into consideration but I don't want to under-size...or conversely buy more than I require...

Any help would be greatly appreciated...
 
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Jackfre

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I wouldn't go over 125,000. You may need a couple fans to help with the stratification.
 
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burgie

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Falcon, Colorado
Thanks for the responses.

1. I didn't mention that I have three (3) 54" ceiling fans with remotes that will be used for circulation.

2. Why 125K? Gut feeling? Guess? Or are there components to the calculations that I am missing that help refine the heater size?

Thanks
 

Jackfre

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Can't directly speak for SS, but I think he has done about a million of these things. I haven't done a million but have done a lot;) Is that a manual J you ran? Given the spec you are building to with the excellent insulation 200 is just way large. The 125 will, I think. give you good comfort and good run times.
 

yeldogt

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My studio is 1700 sf ..... 1/2 conventional and 1/2 SIP -- the heater is 38k BTU. 18' ceilings.

I'm doing a church conversion -- 30' x 42' x 48' high -- stone w/ mostly spray foam -- 4 levels. 70k BTU ....

Both in midatlantic -- design temp of 2
 

Shop Specialties

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Grass Range, MT
Here in Montana most of the work I do is in commercial shops and I use LxWxHx4 to give us a ballpark. Then I go look at every shop in person to see how good/bad and what goes on to see if I need to adjust the numbers. You have a well insulated shop with ceiling fans and it is not a working shop where the doors are going to be up/down 100x a day. Keep it simple to save $$$ and stay warm.
 
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burgie

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Falcon, Colorado
Thanks very much for the additional insight/knowledge. I always had a "seat of the pants" notion that 250K was too big in spite of what some formula indicated. But, I'm someone that likes to know how and why instead of just doing what someone says...so thanks for the added detail!!
 

yeldogt

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Here in Montana most of the work I do is in commercial shops and I use LxWxHx4 to give us a ballpark. Then I go look at every shop in person to see how good/bad and what goes on to see if I need to adjust the numbers. You have a well insulated shop with ceiling fans and it is not a working shop where the doors are going to be up/down 100x a day. Keep it simple to save $$$ and stay warm.

Interesting formula .... plugging in a few of my projects your formula comes up with a larger size than I have done. But .. I'm not doing commercial and mine are well insulated with few doors. It produces a unit much smaller vs what some so called "professionals" recommended. Often under 1/2. More should use!

People just seem to not understand that good insulation coupled with proper sizing can provide constant comfort for reasonable costs ... Most start out with the idea of big heater .... big night time setback ... the sizing is all based on heating up a dead cold shop. All the heat is at the ceiling!

I provided my numbers not to copy -- but to show that these 200k heaters in many shops are just too big
 

Jackfre

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You also have to realize that a heat loss calculation is designed to provide adequate heat on the coldest day of the year. That may be fine, but it also means that for 99% of the heating season you are way oversized. I think it better to go with a smaller unit and on the very coldest days the unit may not be able to keep up so you may have a slightly cooler space. Not a big deal in my view, especially for a shop.
 
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burgie

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My shop is going to be mega-insulated and I do realize the vital role insulation plays...that's why I was surprised by the "calculation" that was spitting out 250K. I'm in agreement that a 125K would be adequate. With a 12' square door I will lose heat when opening but that will be minimized during winter months and if there are days when I don't plan on being out there I will be setting the thermostat at 50°F anyhow...

Good information and thanks for all the insight folks...
 

yeldogt

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My place in PA is propane -- since I only use it on weekends I do turn it down a bit when I leave ... but never down to 50. Everything gets too cold ..tools and equipment. The air heats up and the tools are still cold.

With good insulation the savings are not enough .. especially with NG.
 
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burgie

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Good point about the tools and equipment being cold, yeldogt!! Probably just experiment as time goes on to find that sweet spot!!
 

shaggyant

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Here in Montana most of the work I do is in commercial shops and I use LxWxHx4 to give us a ballpark. Then I go look at every shop in person to see how good/bad and what goes on to see if I need to adjust the numbers. You have a well insulated shop with ceiling fans and it is not a working shop where the doors are going to be up/down 100x a day. Keep it simple to save $$$ and stay warm.

Is the number you get from your ballpark a gross or net heater btu? My shop is 36x48x14 which gives me 96,768 btu.

I have an 80k heater I was going to use but it’s only 80% efficient so the net is 64k btu. Am I just slightly under or am I way under?
 

Innovate1

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The heat rise of 30F seems small. What's a typical minimum temp there. At 20F that's only 50F in the space.

I agree those BTU numbers are huge. Why not just figure heat loss with one of the on line calculators? Using volume is really a swag. A long narrow building has a lot more surface than the same volume in a square building. I guess they are assuming a typical nearly square building with average height.
 

Shop Specialties

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Is the number you get from your ballpark a gross or net heater btu? My shop is 36x48x14 which gives me 96,768 btu.

I have an 80k heater I was going to use but it’s only 80% efficient so the net is 64k btu. Am I just slightly under or am I way under?

Insulated well, little or not at all ? Ceiling fans ? Doors/windows ? What is the shop used for ? Climate ? Altitude ?
 

shaggyant

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Insulated well, little or not at all ? Ceiling fans ? Doors/windows ? What is the shop used for ? Climate ? Altitude ?

Insulated with R30 in the walls and ceiling. Three ceiling fans. Two 14X12 roll up doors and a man door, no windows. The shop will be used for automotive repair and restoration. I live in north Idaho the elevation is right around 2400 feet.
 

Shop Specialties

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Insulated with R30 in the walls and ceiling. Three ceiling fans. Two 14X12 roll up doors and a man door, no windows. The shop will be used for automotive repair and restoration. I live in north Idaho the elevation is right around 2400 feet.

I would bump up to 100,000 BTU if the doors do not open much. If they start going up/down a lot then bump up to 125,000 BTU to get the quicker heat recovery.
 
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