Heating Dilemma (Got Wood?)

[LennyTheLizard]

Alright, I'm looking for some good advice / opinions.

I'm in the middle of building a 40x60 shop and I put in PEX tubing in the concrete so that in the future, I could use radiant heat. I also have about a 1500 sf house (main level) with about 90% of basement finished into living space. Currently, I have 100% Electric utilities in the house (electric resistance forced air furnace + Central Air).

I'm wanting to get a back-up source of heat for the house as well as heat the shop. I don't have any access to Natural Gas. I don't have any real trees on my property to cut, although wood in the area is easy to come by (purchase), and I can probably find a few people to let me cut on their property.

I'm leaning towards installing an outdoor wood boiler hooked up to both the house and shop, but I'm just wondering how big a pain in the *ss it's going to be, and if I should investigate another heat souce? Any other ideas?

Also, with the outdoor wood stoves, I've been doing a lot of research. There seems to be an equal number of people who like the Hardy (SS) unit or the Central Boiler (Thick Steel). There are a ton of other players out there, but I'm looking for a good comparison chart between several manufacturers. Has anyone ever found anything like that. Or, at least a checklist of the features that are must haves, conveniences, etc.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Dragster Racer]

I am checking out the same thing. Remember that this outdoor boiler is not great backup heat since it needs electricity to do you any good. I also think if you have to buy your wood, you will not get any savings from using the outdoor boiler. I think this way of heating takes a lot of commitment. Load twice a day. Clean once a week. Cut wood...and it takes quite a bit of it.

 

[Phuckin' Jim]

You could install this INSIDE your shop, and hook it up to both the shop and house. An added benefit is that any heat lost from the boiler will end up in the shop.
Another thing to consider is that these units burn very clean, so your neighbours won't yell @ you.
http://woodboilers.com/product-detail.aspx?id=60

 

[LennyTheLizard]

Thanks for reply. Let me know if you find any good comparisons and I'll do likewise.

1. For back up, I mean I can run a generator that will handle the electric for pumps. However, I can't afford a generate that will run my electric heat in the house, and currently that's the only source of heat that I have.

2. I don't mind cutting the wood myself, just have to find a place to do it (I don't have enough trees or the right kind - no oak of any size).

 

[Fastback]

12 volt pumps would be the fix...add a Harbor Freight solar charging system and your in. A cheap UPS system for a server rack would run 120 volt pumps for a good while also.

 

[truckman5000]

ive installed 3 out-door wood boilers.
In your case you wont make your money back,
The water in the boiler has to be antifreez, and youll need a break in psi going into your home. So you will need a heat exchanger.
The boiler will burn off the antifreez/ water.
So basically a system loop with pump and controlls for outside, and same for indoor.
You need the heat exchanger because the wood boilder will get water temps up to 700 degrees,
The out door boiler has a steam/relief valve on it anda natural vent so 40% of your heat is going outside into the air.
Ive put these types of units in fo 2 people trying to save money, and there unhappy.
One customer is happy..if you can cut all your wood on your property is the thing.
The units are very expensive and cost to install and operation.

In your area you may be better off with oil heat, or a wood stove for the garadge.
Atleast with oil, you could install a coil in the furnace you have already for heating the house and run a loop for the garadge radient. On another zone controlled by a thermostat.

 

[Fastback]

Alright, I'm looking for some good advice / opinions.

I'm in the middle of building a 40x60 shop and I put in PEX tubing in the concrete so that in the future, I could use radiant heat.

Does he need oxygenated PEX to run that hot?

 

[tvpinballs]

Hi,
Do you have any places to get bushels of corn? I heat my house (6300 sq ft) with 200 bushel of corn a season for $1000. LP cost me $5000. It is a Amazing Heat 165000 btu force air furnace and you can have a/c with it to. I also have one in my shed. Todd

 

[babzog]

ive installed 3 out-door wood boilers.
In your case you wont make your money back,
The water in the boiler has to be antifreez, and youll need a break in psi going into your home. So you will need a heat exchanger.
The boiler will burn off the antifreez/ water.
So basically a system loop with pump and controlls for outside, and same for indoor.
You need the heat exchanger because the wood boilder will get water temps up to 700 degrees,
The out door boiler has a steam/relief valve on it anda natural vent so 40% of your heat is going outside into the air.
Ive put these types of units in fo 2 people trying to save money, and there unhappy.
One customer is happy..if you can cut all your wood on your property is the thing.
The units are very expensive and cost to install and operation.

In your area you may be better off with oil heat, or a wood stove for the garadge.
Atleast with oil, you could install a coil in the furnace you have already for heating the house and run a loop for the garadge radient. On another zone controlled by a thermostat.

Hey truckman,

I've been considering one of these too. You're right, they're ****** expensive to buy (thousands, for a firebox and a water jacket surround by roofing tin) but, next to nat. gas, wood is the cheapest alternative (but also, the most work).

Why were 2/3 of your customers unhappy?

I would plan to either get slabs from the local sawmill for free or would buy a tandem load every couple of years (can get wood for < $35-$40 / cord that way) and cut/split it myself. I've got some I can cut off my land but it's mostly all **** wood - poplar and other softwood garbage.

I've got a line on one a guy's selling because he bought a high efficiency replacement unit. Wants $1k for it. Says it's about 8yrs old and has a small leak which he feels is easily repaired.

 

[LennyTheLizard]

I've got a line on one a guy's selling because he bought a high efficiency replacement unit. Wants $1k for it. Says it's about 8yrs old and has a small leak which he feels is easily repaired.

If you're handy and seems this can be an easy repair, I would probably get serious about it for $1k. However, I think that leaky water jackets can be a fairly expensive repair. I've been trying to get a line on a used one. The best one I've seen (not good enough), was a 10 year old Central Boiler for $3,300. It looked to be in really good shape in pictures, but the price wasn't good enough for me to drive 250 miles to check it out.

 

[Grape Ape]

Here's a link to CB's take on the SS vs. Carbon Steel debate.

http://www.centralboiler.com/stainless.html

CB doesn't even make a SS furnace anymore.