Heavier duty pegboard?

[p90puma]

I'm using the Husky 36x26 pegboard mounted inside the large PAX units from Ikea for mountaineering gear with some 10" pegboard hooks.

The pegboard fits perfectly in the unit and works great for grab & go gear to climb.

I'm finding though that the Husky unit isn't exactly thick steel and when you load up a hook with a couple good pounds of gear it's bending the metal underneath the board and risking failure. The hooks themselves after putting a bend in them hold up just fine.

Any suggestions for a thicker pegboard unit that is those 36x26 dimensions?

I guess I could cut the front plate off the 2nd pegboard and fix that to the pegboard itself, I don't have a welder but maybe with some epoxy? That would double the thickness and still have the same functionality?

 

[GeoBruin]

Have you looked at the Wall Control style pegboard with the slots? It might be less prone to deformation. I'm not sure what gauge steel they use but the ones I have seem heavy duty.

Otherwise, your idea about double laminating the front seems like a good one.

 

[Zewnten]

Do you reorganize your gear often, necessitating the pegboard? If not, maybe build something out of dowels, glue, and thick plywood?

 

[ItsNemo]

Another vote for Wall Control, though I don't know if it would directly solve the problem if you're already using metal.

Might be a case to move to slat wall or french cleats if you have more weight than pegboard can handle.

 

[p90puma]

Do you reorganize your gear often, necessitating the pegboard? If not, maybe build something out of dowels, glue, and thick plywood?

Somewhat yes, but the gear has gotten more stable.

Here's a photo:

 

[Zewnten]

Somewhat yes, but the gear has gotten more stable.

Here's a photo:

That's a lot of weight way out on the hooks. Maybe post in the fabrication thread, lots of creative guys there. If I it was me I'd get that slotted stuff that holds up shelf brackets like the stores use and hang my stuff on that. Let me see if I can find it.

edit: like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selections-70-5-in-Black-Shelf-Upright/4640257 just screw them in butted up to each other.

 

[LeeG]

Put in French cleats and make hangers to hold your stuff. I store my clamps that are much heavier than what you’re showing on French cleats.

 

[bluedog225]

Agreed. The long lever is the issue.

 

[p90puma]

There's 3/4 plywood heavily fastened to the studs behind the veneer of the ikea units so it should be good to go with some other systems attached to it.

I'm trying to utilize the depth of the unit as much as possible to store the gear, I already feel it's not deep enough with the current setup, but the hooks are maxed out and can't go any larger due to the lever nature of the setup.

 

[LeeG]

What tools do you have available to make holders? A welder would make it easy, but there are options if not.

 

[LeeG]

Here are some of the French cleat hangers I have made. My cleats are all 3/4” plywood cut at a 45° angle and screwed in place.



This was one I made prior to getting a welder. I epoxied 1/4” steel bark into the wood. I also made some with 3/8” bar.



This one is for some pretty heavy I-bar clamps. Welded up from some small steel angle and flat bar, hen screwed to the cleat.



Here is part of my clamp cabinet. The French cleats allow me a lot of very sturdy, flexible storage options .

Lee

 

[BTL-A4]

What if you added more screws? It would mean less usable holes, but if you did it strategically, it would offer more support for the pegboard.

 

[GeoBruin]

Here are some of the French cleat hangers I have made. My cleats are all 3/4” plywood cut at a 45° angle and screwed in place.



This was one I made prior to getting a welder. I epoxied 1/4” steel bark into the wood. I also made some with 3/8” bar.



This one is for some pretty heavy I-bar clamps. Welded up from some small steel angle and flat bar, hen screwed to the cleat.



Here is part of my clamp cabinet. The French cleats allow me a lot of very sturdy, flexible storage options .

Lee

Nice rack!

 

[GeoBruin]

That's a lot of weight way out on the hooks. Maybe post in the fabrication thread, lots of creative guys there. If I it was me I'd get that slotted stuff that holds up shelf brackets like the stores use and hang my stuff on that. Let me see if I can find it.

edit: like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selections-70-5-in-Black-Shelf-Upright/4640257 just screw them in butted up to each other.

Excellent idea.

 

[RTM]

Somewhat yes, but the gear has gotten more stable.

Here's a photo:

With all that stuff crammed into that space, I’d look into a single sheet of ~3/4” ply, and attach fixed brackets where you need them, the full depth of your space would be usable.

For some flexibility you could do the vertical tracks with these.

Rubbermaid 11.5 in. L White Metal Adjustable Shelving Track Bracket FG4C0502WHT - The Home Depot

Rubbermaid White Twin Track Shelf Bracket is ideal for supporting stylish and adjustable shelving for a variety of spaces.

www.homedepot.com

Throw in a couple of these for long heavy stuff.

Everbilt 12 in. x 8 in. White Heavy Duty Shelf Bracket 14327 - The Home Depot

Uplift the look of your home decor by choosing this Everbilt White Heavy Duty Shelf Bracket.

www.homedepot.com

Then toss in a smaller square of pegboard for a little flexibility, and for light stuff.

 

[p90puma]

The issues with anything that is triangle braced by itself is I lose the ability to slide the carabiners off the hooks, grabbing a bunch of gear by unclipping carabiners is slow and annoying.

A heavier duty metal dowel solution would be ideal.

I was thinking of cutting these down on my portable band saw and fixing them with some sort of mount at a slight upwards angle to the plywood already mounted behind the pegboard.



They are 30 inches long by 0.62" wide with 0.025" thick steel with a plastic coating from a plastic shelving unit that was scrapped.


I found them while clearing out the attic this morning and think they would work. I'm not sure how to fasten them to the plywood though.

I don't have much in the way of metal fabrication equipment.

Edit, since they are hollow I could shove some wood (?) dowels inside for extra strength.

 

[p90puma]

What if you added more screws? It would mean less usable holes, but if you did it strategically, it would offer more support for the pegboard.

It's the pegboard holes and metal around them that is ripping out. I guess screws not quite all the way in on holes around the ones with hooks might work?

 

[75' forty]

I'm use the omni wall peg board; no complaints and seems to hold a good bit of weight with sockets without much trouble

Wall Organization for Home, Garage or Business | OmniWall USA

Ultimate Wall Mounted Tool Organization for Home, Garage and Business. Strong and versatile metal pegboard systems

omniwallusa.com

 

[LeeG]

They are 30 inches long by 0.62" wide with 0.025" thick steel with a plastic coating from a plastic she
I found them while clearing out the attic this morning and think they would work. I'm not sure how to fasten them to the plywood though.

I don't have much in the way of metal fabrication equipment.

Edit, since they are hollow I could shove some wood (?) dowels inside for extra strength.

Take a piece of 2x4, drill a hole though it that will just allow your steel to pass though. Epoxy the steel into the holes, then screw the piece of 2x4 to the plywood.

Lee

 

[p90puma]

Take a piece of 2x4, drill a hole though it that will just allow your steel to pass though. Epoxy the steel into the holes, then screw the piece of 2x4 to the plywood.

Lee

Will 100% try this, also can set the 2x4 at a 15" angle and get that going too.

Thanks so much!

Will report back how it works.

Now to finally buy a drill press!!!

 

[BTL-A4]

It's the pegboard holes and metal around them that is ripping out. I guess screws not quite all the way in on holes around the ones with hooks might work?

In that case, it sounds like you need thicker gauge sheet metal. I have the Wall Control ones. They are 18 Ga thick (about 1mm).

 

[BTL-A4]

Take a piece of 2x4, drill a hole though it that will just allow your steel to pass though. Epoxy the steel into the holes, then screw the piece of 2x4 to the plywood.

Lee

This is a great idea. However, I would make sure the steel tubes fit tight, which might be hard to achieve if you only have drill bits in 1/16" increments. 39/64" (0.609") is the next size down, but it might be too small. 15.5mm (0.610") is the closest metric size. You do need some room for the epoxy, though, so this might work better than I'm thinking. I've had issues with fitting dowels into wood and having them stay secure. I tight fit usually solved the problem.

 

[RTM]

The issues with anything that is triangle braced by itself is I lose the ability to slide the carabiners off the hooks, grabbing a bunch of gear by unclipping carabiners is slow and annoying.

You could poke about and find something like this if you aren’t concerned about weight.

Everbilt 11.9 in. x 7.9 White Magnum Shelf Bracket EB-0099-12WT - The Home Depot

The Everbilt 12 in. White Magnum Shelf Bracket is a durable, stylish bracket that is ideal for displaying items in any room in the home. This L-shaped steel bracket features a white powder coat finish

www.homedepot.com

For your tubing, going thru the 2x4 might help, as noted above, to get enough beef behind the angled tubing.

 

[p90puma]

I saw some 3x3 turning blanks in various hardwoods that might work better? 4x4 seems overkill and 2by seems maybe a bit undersized?

 

[nadogail]

Hardwood dowel is very strong, set them deep into your plywood backing and the French cleats