Heavy Duty Door Knobs?

[Yojinbo]

I have a few high-traffic areas including the shop, the back patio, the garage that have normal doors that EAT knobs and fixtures.

Part of my issue is that the fit on these doors is "variable" due to heavy insulation seals that compress a great deal. This tends to make the bolt engage the frame at different times depending on who is doing the closing.

But the main part of my problem is cheap mechanisms. Has anyone else addressed this issue before? I got the idea from a client's building to order commercial high-traffic knob sets in hopes that there will be less plastic and pot metal inside them.

I saw some Schlage HD Lever knob kits on McMaster Carr (oddly, while searching for a ball-n-chian oilier for a lathe). I doubled back and stole 2 of the part names(These seem to be a rare exception for McMaster Carr "no brands" policy). I did some google-fu and come up with what looks like a SCHLAGE Heavy Duty Lever Set-Satin Chrome (one of the two) from Amazon for about $90. I think this is a good deal compared to $270 - I will update here once I receive and install one.

What are you all doing for Heavy Duty door handles and bolts?

 

[A_Pmech]

I removed the residential entry door I installed as a temporary solution and installed a commercial steel door with closer and panic bar. No more door problems! List price on a commercial entry door is about $1k +- with all the hardware, but there are plenty of contractor extras and good take-outs on Craigslist for about 1/4 to 1/10 of list price.

I wish I had a photo of the residential steel entry door this replaced. The thing was literally falling apart.

 

[Toolfool]

The Schlage HD levers are pretty good for the money. I install a lot of them on my projects. No call-backs on them yet. Use them on my house. Installed a touchpad lock on the shop so I don't need to have the key.

 

[rslaback]

Check out the Sargent locks as well. That is all we use at my school (and many others). The list price on some of them are nuts ($700+) but we usually pick them up off eBay for around $75 each. We then either have it rekeyed or use a cylinder out of a lock we already have.

One other thing to consider is that most commercial style lock cylinders are set up with a double pin system so you could have multiple key cuts that open the lock. We use that for a master key system.

 

[Yojinbo]

Thanks! The Schlage HD Lever Set arrived today (FedEx Sat!) but I have too many farm chores to get to it now. I will install it in the cool of the evening. I will say that the box was comfortingly heavy.


I need to learn what the various Grades mean (if they are anything beyond marketing).

 

[Yojinbo]

Hitch - the bolt (latch) barrels are too long on the new commercial locks for my residential doors. So I will have to cut a new hole slightly inside the old hole for the knob in order to allow for proper bolt travel. (or somehow shorten the bolt latch assembly).

EDIT: This is called "backset". I have 2 3/8 doors and my new locks expect 2 3/4 of room. No idea what I will do yet.

 

[Zeke]

Yes, commercial backset is 2 3/4. Check and make sure the tubular latch won't collapse to the 2 3/8 with a twist. If not, check a Schalge catalog for the shorter latches. Do not move the face bore.

 

[Yojinbo]

I ordered some "Deadlatches" off flea-bay. Grainger had the Commercial 2 3/8" for $$ and I could not find the right part num on McMaster Carr. Fastenal does not carry Schlage.

So this brings my $90 HD knobs to $134 each plus shipping....

 

[Zeke]

Sometimes you gots to pay for your mistakes.

 

[Yojinbo]

Better to remember them that way.

 

[MoToys]

Did you order the correct grade latches to match your knobs?
I'm not a fan of schlage's design. I think arrow (assa abloy) makes a better product.

 

[60_Starliner]

What about this?

http://www.handlesets.com/cal-royal-sl00-pioneer-collection-heavy-duty-sl-design-entrance-office-function-door-lever-set/p1820891

I was considering these for my garage. Cheaper...yes...quality? for $63 I'm going to give them a try. I don't think I will give them as much "traffic" as a business might. I have bought from this place before but have no affiliation.

 

[Torque1st]

Part of my issue is that the fit on these doors is "variable" due to heavy insulation seals that compress a great deal. This tends to make the bolt engage the frame at different times depending on who is doing the closing.

To remove the variable gasket compression distance put a hard stop on the jamb in front of the lock cylinder. Usually a piece of aluminum or nylon with a couple c'sunk screws will do the trick. Just cut the gasket out of the area for the stop.

Your local locksmith shop will have the parts you need to change the backset.

 

[Yojinbo]

Did you order the correct grade latches to match your knobs?
I'm not a fan of schlage's design. I think arrow (assa abloy) makes a better product.

I did - by part number at least. We will see what actually arrives.

 

[MoToys]

What about this?

http://www.handlesets.com/cal-royal-sl00-pioneer-collection-heavy-duty-sl-design-entrance-office-function-door-lever-set/p1820891

I was considering these for my garage. Cheaper...yes...quality? for $63 I'm going to give them a try. I don't think I will give them as much "traffic" as a business might. I have bought from this place before but have no affiliation.

Cal royal is contractor grade junk, stay away if you want quality.

I did - by part number at least. We will see what actually arrives.

So they are probably grade one latches, that's why they were $30 each. If you run into any more issues I can get you the parts you need, just shoot me a pm.

 

[Yojinbo]

So they are probably grade one latches, that's why they were $30 each. If you run into any more issues I can get you the parts you need, just shoot me a pm.

They are from the ND Series Mfg PN starting with 14. I think that I have reverse engineered the Schlage numbers to find that 14-*** is Grade 1, and that 11-*** is Grade 2. To match I needed 14-048 625 (satin chrome) - this is from memory so I may be off (no caffeine yet). Now, who knows what the ebay seller will actually put in the box...

I appreciate your offer. I saw some of the Arrow sets on either Fastenal or Grainger and I wondered if they were any good. It's good to know they are quality too. My home and shop were built by a contractor, as his own residence, and I swear every window, door, and piece of hardware is a castoff from some other project. They are either the Best or the Worst quality - nothing in between.

 

[MoToys]

They are from the ND Series Mfg PN starting with 14. I think that I have reverse engineered the Schlage numbers to find that 14-*** is Grade 1, and that 11-*** is Grade 2. To match I needed 14-048 625 (satin chrome) - this is from memory so I may be off (no caffeine yet). Now, who knows what the ebay seller will actually put in the box...

I appreciate your offer. I saw some of the Arrow sets on either Fastenal or Grainger and I wondered if they were any good. It's good to know they are quality too. My home and shop were built by a contractor, as his own residence, and I swear every window, door, and piece of hardware is a castoff from some other project. They are either the Best or the Worst quality - nothing in between.

Yes, you did a good job with part numbers, the '625' at the end is what indicates your finish of satin chrome. 626 is brushed and will substitute in a pinch. Schlage's knobs aren't so bad I just don't like that they are made in Mexico. Their levers however are a bad design IMHO. Good luck.

 

[60_Starliner]

Cal royal is contractor grade junk, stay away if you want quality.

MoToys, Thanks for the tip. I had never heard of Cal Royal.

 

[Pate]

Yes, you did a good job with part numbers, the '625' at the end is what indicates your finish of satin chrome. 626 is brushed and will substitute in a pinch.

625 is bright chrome, not satin.

626 is brushed or satin chrome.

 

[MoToys]

MoToys, Thanks for the tip. I had never heard of Cal Royal.

Your welcome.

625 is bright chrome, not satin.

626 is brushed or satin chrome.

Yes, your right, 625 is in fact polished. 626 is brushed or satin if you want to call it. I call 626, 26d which is sometimes confused with 32d, and I call 625, 26. Why cant they all just use the same codes?

 

[Pate]

Like most things in life the two sides in the architectural hardware world can't agree.

You have the "US" & the "BHMA" numbers. Each mfg has their preference.