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Heavy Duty Engine Hoist Build

ToolCrazyDude

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Hi Guys,

I'm looking to build an engine hoist similar in size to the one pictured. I need this to be able to lift and maneuver about 1,000 lbs (4x8 sheet of 3/4" steel).

I have 6" x 4" (1/4" thick) rectangular tubing for the vertical support as well as the first main section of the arm. I'm thinking about either 4" x 3" (1/4" thick) or 5" x 3" (3/16" thick) for the sliding arm extension (which slides in and out of the main section). I currently have some of the 4x3 tube but would have to buy anything else. Any suggestions on which I should use for the sliding arm extension? The 4 x 3 tubing would likely require me to weld some plate to the top of the tube to take up the extra space (so I can lock it in place with a grade 8 bolt) but it might be heavier duty than the larger diameter 3/16" thick tube right?

I'm also wondering if I can use some 2.5" x 2.5" (3/16" thick) square tubing for the legs to mount casters on since I have some (or do i need heavier duty?). Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

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matt_i

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Your 1/4" wall tubing sounds a lot heavier than the existing offerings on the market, those are around 1/8" wall last time I checked.

That you want to lift a 48x96" sheet says you really only need a reach of 24".

A pallet jack would also be handy. For rolling around the sheet (possibly on a pallet) and getting enough lift to raise the steel plate high enough so that the front casters can roll underneath.
 

Spareparts

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The measurements for the boom far exceed the rating for the legs, When I built mine I made it where I could disassemble it for storage, remove the legs, boom, and on mine the upright can be bolted to the base and stacked in the corner taking up aboul 1/3 of the space, let's face it you only use it for a little while and they it is in the way. When sizing tubes to fit inside one another the larger tube needs to have a wall thickness of 3/16" and the inner tube wall can vary according to load applied, example 3"X3"X3/16" tube and a 2 1/2" X 2 1/2"X 1/4" wall will slide right in with minimal slop. The Tubing has a weld seam and you have to allow for that and when making telescoping pieces like legs and booms you want that weld seam facing UP for least resistance when sliding together.
 

gearhead1

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How long do you anticipate the first main section of the arm to be?

How long do you anticipate the second section of the arm to be?
 
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ToolCrazyDude

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It isn't set in stone, but I'm guessing the main section will be about 5' and the second section will extend another 3' beyond that. I have about an 8' section of the 6" x 4" (1/4" thick) rectangular tubing and about the same in the 4" x 3" (1/4" thick) rectangular tubing. I'm leaning more towards finding some 5" x 3" vs the 4" x 3" to help fill in the gap on the inside of the 6x4 tubing.
 

mike93lx

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Engine lifts are cheap on Craigslist... They just get in the way for most people. Why build instead of buy?
 

gearhead1

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I don’t disagree but sometimes people want to build it for the experience of it.

Also, sometimes people already have the material or can get it for free.
 

chaosracing

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I am one for building making your own tools and what not. But in the case of an engine hoist, especially one rated for 1000lbs, you will have more time and money in materials invested even if you went and bought a harbor freight one with a coupon, or as mentioned above, find one for sale on Craigslist, FB market place, auctions.

Even if you were to buy the ram at harbor freight, till all said and done, its still cheaper to buy one.

Just found a coupon on the HF coupon database for an engine hoist for $139.99 for a one ton (2000 lb) capacity.
 

mike93lx

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I don’t disagree but sometimes people want to build it for the experience of it.

Also, sometimes people already have the material or can get it for free.

I don't fault someone for a project. This is just a bit puzzling as 1k LB is within the rated capacity of essentially all engine hoists. If you don't value time and get materials, rod/wire /has, etc for free, I guess it makes sense
 
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ToolCrazyDude

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Part of the reason I'm designing this myself is for experience, the other reason is i need to design it to lift 4x8 plates of steel high enough to overcome sidewalls of a utility trailer. Most engine hoists ive seen dont lift high enough to overcome the side walls of a utility trailer
 

mike93lx

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Part of the reason I'm designing this myself is for experience, the other reason is i need to design it to lift 4x8 plates of steel high enough to overcome sidewalls of a utility trailer. Most engine hoists ive seen dont lift high enough to overcome the side walls of a utility trailer

How high are the sidewalls? If a hoist can pull an engine out of a bay, I would expect getting plate stock over a normal trailer shouldn't be an issue.
 
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ToolCrazyDude

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I'm guessing the sidewalls of the trailer are about 4' tall, the trailer deck sits about 2' off the ground (plus half height of sheet being 2') so you'd have to be able to lift a minimum of 8' (not counting the chain length) to lift a piece of 4x8 sheet out of the trailer.
 

zkdiesel

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I'm guessing the sidewalls of the trailer are about 4' tall, the trailer deck sits about 2' off the ground (plus half height of sheet being 2') so you'd have to be able to lift a minimum of 8' (not counting the chain length) to lift a piece of 4x8 sheet out of the trailer.

Go buy a premade one and cut up the boom angle or move the ram pivot to make it do more height. Minimal fab and almost zero material needed
 

mike93lx

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I'm guessing the sidewalls of the trailer are about 4' tall, the trailer deck sits about 2' off the ground (plus half height of sheet being 2') so you'd have to be able to lift a minimum of 8' (not counting the chain length) to lift a piece of 4x8 sheet out of the trailer.

Lifting plate steel that high with an engine hoist seems ripe for a serious injury. Why not take it off the back?
 
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ToolCrazyDude

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You guys are probably right, but I got ~20ft of 6" x 4" 1/4" tubing for $100 and the 3/16" square tubing I already had on hand. Hence the original question on the dimensions of the arm extension I should shoot for (5x3 vs 4x3 and welding a bar on top to reduce the gap).

I'm guessing with casters and jack I can build this for ~$250 but I get to overbuild it and design it the way I want. In any case, projects like this will help build my knowledge base for when I go to tackle something more complex.
 

matt_i

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If it was me I would be buying or building an A frame

I agree, I think a gantry its heavier duty and more versatile. You can build it to unload the max capacity of your trailer. There, I've now given you the formula for filling your garage with heavy iron. You can curse me later :bounce:
 

mike93lx

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You guys are probably right, but I got ~20ft of 6" x 4" 1/4" tubing for $100 and the 3/16" square tubing I already had on hand. Hence the original question on the dimensions of the arm extension I should shoot for (5x3 vs 4x3 and welding a bar on top to reduce the gap).

I'm guessing with casters and jack I can build this for ~$250 but I get to overbuild it and design it the way I want. In any case, projects like this will help build my knowledge base for when I go to tackle something more complex.

The material could always be used for other projects. It's the sunk cost fallacy.

But either way, good luck with the build.
 
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ToolCrazyDude

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I agree, I think a gantry its heavier duty and more versatile. You can build it to unload the max capacity of your trailer. There, I've now given you the formula for filling your garage with heavy iron. You can curse me later :bounce:
I'd love a gantry but build it too tall and I can't move material into my garage. Build it too short and I limit it's use. BUT, build a gantry which I can easily adjust the height of, I'm interested in that! (at some point). Engine hoist is just quicker and easier for now.
 
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sberry

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It's the sunk cost fallacy.
This is good and a reality. Tossing more after it doesn't help. Buy and you can be using it.
I will agree about the engine hoist being good. I know several guys got them as their main rigging equipment and manage just fine. I have other stuff but it is the most used.
 

jmarkwolf

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Look at "Homemadetools.net". Lots of homemade cranes and hoists among other things.

I think I would buy the bigger HF engine crane and modify it to suit.
 

Spareparts

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If you are going to be lifting a lot of plate invest in a Plate Dog a lot safer and taker up less room than chains
 

sberry

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I got the one in the pic. It's heavy. I did make an extension section and loaded it up with stuff as counter weight.
 

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chaosracing

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If it were me, I would go for the Viking (2nd one you posted) The first ones are high in price IMHO. You could probably get the Viking for $175-$180 to. The other one is a lighter duty one.
 

AMCguy

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A much simpler (therefore better in my opinion) design to copy is that of a KayDee/Blue Bird engine crane. These have been a staple of the tool rental industry for decades. They're rated at 1,500 lbs. I know first hand that it will handle a 454 Chevy engine, transmission and transfer case all at one time.

This is exactly what I did except I increased the length of the boom and legs.

Glenn
 

sanddan

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I modified an engine hoist to make lifting and moving my lathe safer. I used 1/4" wall tubing only because that's what I had in the scrap pile. I've had the hoist over 20 years and keep it knocked down to take up less space. Nice to have when needed.
 

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sberry

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The ones we have and are inmost of these pics are a class heavier than the HF 2T I believe? If I could slide by or the used market wasn't good I wouldn't have a problem with the new HF2. Its a well proven design. It folds which is a huge asset for a part timer. Got a couple Buds got them and one I looked at the welding was flawless.
 
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ToolCrazyDude

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Not bad! I never got a response from the guy who had the viking 3 ton lift. I can tell he read my message but that's the way it goes sometimes. I hate relying on harbor freight for some of this riskier stuff but i may end up buying the harbor freight 2 ton hoist. I already bought a plate clamp so I just need the hoist then it's off to grab 1,000 pounds of steel!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...7645591968488/
 

matt_i

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C62Y8ZW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This one will do this if one is so inclined. Pretty good lifting tool I found out, originally I got it to split a tractor.

bpt_lifting_1.jpg
 

thehighwayman

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I'm guessing the sidewalls of the trailer are about 4' tall, the trailer deck sits about 2' off the ground (plus half height of sheet being 2') so you'd have to be able to lift a minimum of 8' (not counting the chain length) to lift a piece of 4x8 sheet out of the trailer.

its 3/4 plate. lift horizontally vs vertically. my grandfather would weld a horseshoe to the center and pick it up with the jib crane, I would use two chains, a couple clamps, and a $150 cherry picker. I'm an over engineer-er, but really, you guys on here are something else. Spend the time making something cool, not building a tool.
a forklift or tractor with front end loader will make you more money than you spending the time to build a sub $200 piece of space occupying ****.

If you REALLY want to build a lifting device, build an a frame. I'm not sure how you are set up space wise, but I bet you could make one that breaks down and takes up nearly the same amount of space as any cherry picker.
 
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