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Hein Warner Floor Jack

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Hiball

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I have one of those jacks .Any idea how old ,the s/n is 6 47 24

Its been discussed before and its hard to determine the age of these jacks, to my knowledge there is no dating system used. I do know they started making them in the mid 40's and other than Handle configurations they where identical throughout production.
 

sjdon67

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When you replaced the packing seals did the copper nut fit down flush or did it stick up a little? I just rebuilt mine and it wont screw all the way down. I was thinking of putting teflon tape on mine also to make sure it dont leak.
 

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Hiball

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When you replaced the packing seals did the copper nut fit down flush or did it stick up a little? I just rebuilt mine and it wont screw all the way down. I was thinking of putting teflon tape on mine also to make sure it dont leak.

I dont believe the nut should fit flush with new packing, If you have the correct amount and size and it was installed flat it should stick up a bit. Its designed to be tightened over the years as the packing wears. As far as the teflon its not required and wont do any good, When seapage does occur it will leak from the inside of that compression ring not the outer. There is NO constant oil pressure and that packing is only there to stop Oil that seaps by the main ram cup.
 
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Elroy

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I dont believe the nut should fit flush with new packing, If you have the correct amount and size and it was installed flat it should stick up a bit.

That is correct. The brass packing nut should be "proud" when assembled. If yours is is recessed you may want to inspect the brass washer that supports the rod packing in the base of the tank nut as shown in these photos from the OS build

Picture015.jpg


Picture016.jpg

The coined radial grooves in the washer are intended to stiffen the washer to resist the load from the packing. Excessive tightening of the packing will bell-mouth the support washer. You can work out the bell-mouth or simply flip the washer over so the high side points to the packing. Don't remove the coined grooves.
 

blueflame6

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If it wasn't for Elroy and Hiball I probably would have scrapped out this old jack. I found it behind a supermarket last summer off the pavement half buried in the ground with grass all around it. Picked it up, cleaned it off, and got it working, never knew who made it 'till I came to this site. No name plate anymore, just the rivets but it is far better than the new Craftsman 2 1/4 tonner I bought just before this Hein Werner find. Now I am a proud owner of another true American made product thanks to Elroy and his rebuild project!! :beer: :thumbup:..........Peter
 

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Elroy

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Now I am a proud owner of another true American made product thanks to Elroy and his rebuild project!!

Well Pete the pleasure was all mine. That looks like a 1-1/4 ton OS you have there. We can only assume you're aware of the Hein Werner OS build covered in detail here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36252

That's the beauty of the modern information highway. Elroy is glad you pulled that OS out the weeds if nothing else to displace another POS from China from invading our American Garages. :beer:
 
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blueflame6

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Elroy, you were the reason I persevered with the mudpile. I identified it because of your rebuild project. It gave me insite and renewed my lust for old American products . I salute you Master.........:bowdown: :beer:..............Pete, p.s. keep up the good work......
 

Elroy

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Elroy tells me he is glad you found his little project useful. Thanks for posting a few shots of your new/old Hein-Werner. That's an older one and speaks well of their durability.


PS. Just noticed your yellow dust caps on the zerk fittings, Nice touch!
 

blueflame6

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Good eyesight there Elroy........I use those dust caps on all of my grease fittings, bought a bag of 250 pcs about 30 years ago, I still have quite a few left in that bag. There ia a small loop that goes around and below the hex below the ****** to retain it when you do the greasing...........its good to sweat the small stuff.........:drool: Pete
 

blueflame6

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That IS the first time I have ever seen those caps outside of my garage. Those are the beauties Elroy, the same ones! You never cease to amaze me Mister, a sharp eye is a sharp mind.......Peter:shocking:
 

Elroy

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Those caps are avialble from several different sources. These particular ones are SKF brand and are very thick walled. They really latch onto the zerk.

Elroy has a hand full of some no-name caps and they're junk compared to these SKF's.

Thank you again for your kind words. Enjoy your jack.

ALWAYS use stands.
 

blueflame6

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Me again Elroy, Is there a difference between a OS Hein Werner and an O'Boy? are they one and the same or different, if so how? Just keeping you on your toes..............:lol_hitti
 

Elroy

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Me again Elroy, Is there a difference between a OS Hein Werner and an O'Boy? are they one and the same or different, if so how? Just keeping you on your toes..............:lol_hitti

These two jacks have many similarities but differ as well. Here's some additional information:

Lets put some numbers to these models for reference and identification:

The larger WS series jacks, rated at 1-1/2 ton (3,000 pound)

The dimension inside the frame on WS is 6-3/4"

1-1/2" Diameter piston.

**************************************

The smaller OS or O'Boy jacks are 5-1/4" between frame plates. We understand these jacks are rated at 1-1/4 ton (2,500) pounds

The OS ram piston diameter is 1-1/4"

It appears that BOTH jacks have the same 11/16" diameter plunger.

And here are some pictures of the two jacks side by side. The smaller 1-1/4 ton and formerly rusted jack is the Model OS marketed as an O'Boy. The larger 1-1/2 Ton is a model WS Hein-Werner

Picture025.jpg


Picture050.jpg


Picture031.jpg


Picture048.jpg


*****************************

To clarify these photos:

The floor jack on the Left is a circa 1979 Hein Werner Model WS rated at 1-1/2 ton

The jack on the right is a circa 1948 Hein Werner O'Boy Model OS rated at 1-1/4 ton.

Picture054.jpg


Picture057.jpg


Picture058.jpg
 

Hiball

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I would like to add a little info on these jacks. There was actually 3 HW Ton and 1/4 Jacks series a O, OS and a Oboy. I believe the oldest was the Oboy, and im not sure if the Oboy O or OS was next in line. They all use the same rebuild kit and i suspect the main changes where in the frame and handle inparticular.
 

Lilrob069

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Well progress had to stop on the Hein Werner for a few days because Elroy had a little trouble finding someone to borrow tools from so he could work on his "high performance twin turbo sports car":headscrat

Actually the power pack is going back together tonight and Elroy will post up as progress is made.:thumbup:

Hey elroy I was wondering how you went about getting the cylinder out of the hein Warner jack you rebuilt a while ago without denting or scarring it??
 

Elroy

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Hey elroy I was wondering how you went about getting the cylinder out of the hein Warner jack you rebuilt a while ago without denting or scarring it??

Have no doubt the cylinder didn't come out with out a few battle scars:

Now this shots is "after the fact" but depicts the trouble encountered removing the cylinder tube. This damn thing was in there TIGHT and Elroy was concerned with putting a flat in the tube. To support the tube we found this Craftsman socket that fit the tube nice and tight.

Picture031.jpg


You can see where Elroy polished out the teeth marks

Picture025.jpg


Granted these shots are from the OS build but Elroy used the same procedures on the WS
 
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_CY_

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just purchased an old Hein Warner 1 1/2 ton model
took 6 months of chasing just to get him to sell it to me.

he claimed to have rebuilt the hydraulics. pumps up fine, but leaks.
HW 1 1/2 ton has no problems picking up front end of my 2500 Cummins truck

here's a pic of the HW 1 1/2 ton next to an old Walker 2 ton, the new built in Kansas HW 2ton and a made in Taiwan HW 2 ton.

hein warner.JPG
 
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CRTDI

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It would be nice to see some detailed pics of your old 2 Ton Walker. :drool: Any plans on rebuilding the Hein Werner or the Walker?
 

_CY_

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please give me a bit ... will post pic's of old Walker 2 ton, which is in excellent original unrestored condition. Also have a Walker 3 ton (1939?) long body in excellent working condition.

yup... plans are to restore the 1.5 ton HW back to working condition.
sure be nice to powder coat the old girl ....

It would be nice to see some detailed pics of your old 2 Ton Walker. :drool: Any plans on rebuilding the Hein Werner or the Walker?
 

_CY_

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here's a few pic's showing 4 floor jacks covering a wide span of time for American and Asian mfg.

just as important performance... bottom pic's show floor jacks pick up the same 8,000lb 2500 Dodge Cummins 4x4. objective was to pick both wheels off the ground.

all had no problems except Taiwan 2 ton HW, which just missed lifting load. had problems releasing afterwards. the Taiwan HW 2 ton did not like it...

1. Walker 2 ton long body (1950's ?)
2. Hein Warner 1 1/2 ton (1979?)
3. Hein Warner 2 ton made in Kansas (blue) current model
4. Hein Warner 2 ton made in Tiawan (orange) 1996?

walker.JPG


walker2.JPG


walker3.JPG


walker4.JPG


walker5.JPG


walker6.JPG


walker7.JPG


walker8.JPG
 
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CRTDI

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Very, very cool jack collection and pics showing them in action as well. :drool: That long frame Walker looks well suited for your truck. Looks like the handle doesn't even come near the bumper while your using it.

There is another member here that has a couple of old Walker 4 Ton units and they originally had a "nose piece". I'm curious if your 3 Ton unit has one as well.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51567&highlight=floor+jack&page=53

I'd really like to get an old 2 Ton "Shorty". I think it has all the class of the old long frames without taking up all my garage floor space.

Thanks for sharing and giving me my fix.....:willy_nil
 

_CY_

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got my HW 1.5 ton floor jack working again. someone had welded a bolt, holding rear wheel on. bearing fell out long ago and bolt's head was too thick causing wheel to bind.

evidently jack was used this way for decades. flat grooves were worn into steel wheel as it was slid along instead of rolling.

unbolted wheel assembly then proceeded to mill off weld slag on top of large center bolt. then found some bicycle wheel bearings, a bit small but will work until I dig up the larger size needed.

chased down leak to main ram ... tighten brass nut about 3/4 turn or until oil stopped leaking. then extended hydraulic ram fully... some minor pitting were sanded off with 150 grit strip. then all grit was carefully cleaned off.

Ram has sat overnight without leaking, so calling it good.
rear wheels rolls nicely... still need to chase down correct size bearings and a nyloc nut for center bolt holding down wheel.

original paint colors are orange and 50's green. Orange will be easy, but the special green may need custom mixed.

more details yet to go... but HW 1.5 ton jack is 100% functional again.
thanks again to Elroy and Hiball whose instructions on how to chase down leaks got this old jack functioning again.

hw10.JPG


hw11.JPG
 
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chilly460

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Well today was Hein Werner day for Elroy. Decided it was time to continue dis-assembly of the WS pump. What a dirty mess it was. Elroy is looking forward to having a rebuilt floor jack that does not leak !!

Picture079.jpg
[/IMG]

At this point the entire main body has been dis-assembled and cleaned. Can't get the main cylinder out of the block. That baby is torqued in there and the last thing Elroy needs is a dent in the cylinder so it's staying put. The over load valve also takes some kind of special tool to remove. Elroy understands it's pre-adjusted at the factory so that is staying put as well. All the parts in the relief valve are steel with no soft parts so there is no big deal leaving it alone.

Picture082.jpg
[/IMG]

The main bore is nice and clean with no pits or grooves. Elroy also wants NO DENTS so that damn cylinder can ride as is.

Picture084.jpg
[/IMG]

Dredging up an old post here. How did you get the tank nut off? Tried a punch but it was peening the cast iron "ears" of the tank nut, so didn't want to push it. Bigass spanner?
 
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Elroy

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Dredging up an old post here. How did you get the tank nut off? Tried a punch but it was peening the cast iron "ears" of the tank nut, so didn't want to push it. Bigass spanner?

Realize this was over 3 years ago but Elroy would venture he took the tank nut off with nothing more than a pipe wrench or maybe some big channel locks.

Considering the grooves in your brass packing nut are messed up let it come off with the tank nut as the piston rod will not prevent these parts from coming off as a group. When the rod is out of the way, you'll have a better access to the packing nut. At that point a flat mill file will clean up the notch.

Elroy sure made it look easy now didn't he. Kind of like a Haynes' manual. Elroy just hit the high points :wtf:

PS: put the welder away
 
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IngyHere

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Aug 22, 2011
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Hi Elroy,

Any idea what happened to the Waltz-Dettmer company in Cincinnati, OH? I tried to contact them and the phone wasn't working.

Does anyone know if the economy ate them? I really hate it when the latest bad economy does in a company that weathered so many downturns in the past.

Thanks,

IngyHere
 

ShadowRuleZ

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Just picked this up today. Good to see this site once again is the bastion of knowledge on the internet for something.

IMG_1826.JPG

IMG_1827.JPG
 

tenlug

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Just want to say thanks to Elroy and Hiball for the info in this thread. Just rebuilt my HS using this thread and the info is spot on. Thanks
 

franksinatra

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I have a question to Elroy. Did you use any loctite on either piston pump nut when snugging it up? Would the constant oil bath breakdown the loctite? Thank you, G
 

Hiball

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I have a question to Elroy. Did you use any loctite on either piston pump nut when snugging it up? Would the constant oil bath breakdown the loctite? Thank you, G

Elroy is unfortunately no longer welcome here, but ill answer Your question. Generally the pump seal nut is staked (center punch where the thread meets inside of the nut to prevent it from backing off) you will also find these factory stakes on the main Seal nut and the bottom star gear.

If your also referencing the pump piston guid, it doesn't need any loctite.. Just snug it up.. It does take a special tool that aids in removing that piece, but generally some "light" plier pressure will unthread it.
 

franksinatra

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I believe mine has the punch marks as you mentioned but they both come off quite easily. I just want to make sure, no loctite? I have a few other questions, can I PM you? Im almost finished with the restore so just need some last minute questions answered. Thanks
 

Hiball

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I believe mine has the punch marks as you mentioned but they both come off quite easily. I just want to make sure, no loctite? I have a few other questions, can I PM you? Im almost finished with the restore so just need some last minute questions answered. Thanks

Sure.. Pm away, I'm just sitting in the hotel,awaiting my ride home. What I see right now is that the leather needs to be soaked/compressed prior to installation and the pump piston nut is extended too much (2 leather washers versus 1) Non Oem nut?

If you would rather chat, send me your phone number via PM.
 
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AmIEvil

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Great thread. This helped me a lot disassembling my Hein Werner WS 1 1/2 ton I inherited from my grandfather. I really want this thing to work but as I test it out it leaks like crazy. I bought a new seal kit for it and got it torn down with the help of this post but I CANNOT get the outer hydraulic piston cover to come off! I've got it in my clamp and I've tried everything to get it to budge but nothing I do will break it free. Any ideas on what I can do to possibly get it off?
 

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