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Hein-Werner floor jack rebuild

john jones

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I am new to the forum. I've had a Hein-Werner Winner 2 ton floor jack model H68049 for many years. It doesn't seem to hold pressure when lifting a vehicle. I am thinking that I should rebuild this so I can get another 20 years out of it.

Can someone point me in the right direction for a rebuild kit & instructions on how to do it?

Thanks!
 
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paulsomlo

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Apparently, that's a later model that they imported, has a reputation for being a good jack. Sounds like it has a known history, but what I think sberry is getting at, is you should probably take apart the hydraulics before you order the seal kit, to make sure there's no corrosion in the cylinder and no damage to any of the hard parts.

Floor jacks are relatively simple, hydraulic-wise; if you get stuck, there's plenty of help here on the forum.
 
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john jones

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Thanks for the idea. There isn't any rust on the ram. It actually looks pretty good for its age. Its been my home use jack and has always been in the garage. It looks like Hiball is the go to on these jacks. I will contact him after Christmas.

Thanks for the help! I can't bring myself to part with this
 
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john jones

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I received my rebuild kit from the link above. I have installed most of the o-rings and gaskets. I am having trouble figuring out where the two copper washers go? I took off the center piece where the closing valve is located, but I can't seem to get the guts to come out?

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
 

paulsomlo

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Here's another drawing, this one's for a 68040 Winner: https://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/Hein-Werner_Winner_68040_Floor_Jack_2_Ton.pdf
I'm not sure how closely it will match your jack - the documentation they have for the 68049 doesn't have a parts diagram. In fact, it offers only the entire hydraulic unit as a repair part.

If I had to guess, I would look at PN 24 for that copper washer - it's sealing the overload valve. If you haven't opened up the overload and the cylinder wasn't filled with debris from a rotted out ram cup, you could probably get away with leaving it alone. In fact, those two copper washers are most likely used for static sealing - if they're the only thing left, and you've used the rest of the seals without coming across any copper washers, then I wouldn't worry about it.
 
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john jones

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Thanks for the picture. Between the steel ball bearings 14 and 22 I had a small spring. In this diagram it doesn't show one. Will it work with way?
 

paulsomlo

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Thanks for the picture. Between the steel ball bearings 14 and 22 I had a small spring. In this diagram it doesn't show one. Will it work with way?
I would just put it back together the same way it came apart - what you're looking at is referred to as the working valve; there are various schemes that are used to keep the check balls (14 and 22) seated, until overcome by pump pressure - sometimes it's springs, some jacks use small weights.

I figured that diagram wasn't exact, because it doesn't quite reconcile with the picture of the seal kit. And even if it was, manufacturers change designs over the years - a lot of the time, there are seals left over from a kit, because whoever put the seal kit together knows that there are many permutations of the same jack and they're trying to cover all of them.
 
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john jones

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Ok, I got everything back together. The jack pumps all the way to the top and releases just like it should when I'm not lifting anything. But when I try to jack up a car it starts to lift and then when I pump the handle, the vehicle rises, when I lower the handle the vehicle lowers. No leaks though :)
 

paulsomlo

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Ok, I got everything back together. The jack pumps all the way to the top and releases just like it should when I'm not lifting anything. But when I try to jack up a car it starts to lift and then when I pump the handle, the vehicle rises, when I lower the handle the vehicle lowers. No leaks though :)

Sort of like a see-saw? That's referred to as "handle feedback". I would start by looking at PNs 14 and 22, especially #22, which may not be seating correctly.
 
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john jones

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With Hiball & Paulsomlo's help, I was able to figure this out. I had the small ball, then the spring and then the large ball. The configuration goes: small ball, large ball and then the spring, taper down. Now my jack works great as it did in the 80's-90's when I got it.

Thanks for everyones help, I appreciate it!
 
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