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Hello fellow garage floor junkies! NEED Polyurea help

Burst

New member
Joined
Sep 27, 2016
Messages
2
Location
California
Hello all,

Let me start out by introducing myself, My name is Tim and I live in the worst state for someone wanting to get a quality floor coating... California.

As anyone who lives here knows, finding a quality product that is able to be shipped here is quite a headache. About 6 months ago, I made a hasty choice without doing my due diligence and applied 2 coats of "Epoxy-coats" 2 part system. After I allowed the proper time to dry, i was actually quite pleased with the "visual" results. It was my first time and it went rather smoothly in my 2 car garage. But very quickly it became apparent that either something I did was wrong or the product I hastily chose did not have the qualities I was looking for.

Scuffs started showing up immediately, and from very minor impacts. Scratches, stains, dents etc began piling up rapidly. Tire marks so bad that every degreaser, magic eraser, every solvent I had could not get rid of them. I literally had to sand them away. Long story short, Epoxycoats system lasted all of 2 weeks before it started becoming impossible to keep stains off of and this is without any chips.

Now in all fairness, I never added a top coat of any kind, I did not know that I needed to or should do so. I did exactly as the instructions said no more no less.

Fast forward to now and i have the ugliest epoxy coated floor I have ever seen and it is riddled with scratches, scuffs, and stains. I cannot leave it like this, so I have been doing some research and the best option I have is to sand down the epoxy until i get all the major scratches and stains out and apply a colored Polyurea, high solids top coat. But as you all know, the brands and options are endless and makes me dizzy going through all the so called "review sites" just to figure out that they are just promoting their product.

Anyways, moving forward, I guess my questions to you guys are as follows:

1)What steps should I do to prep an already epoxied floor for a colored Polyurea top coat?

2)Without taking cost into consideration, what is the best high solids, 2 part polyurea brand that I can get shipped to CA. (I do not want any of that sissy, cheap, water based, 1 part nonsense)

3)Will Polyurea get those dreaded tire marks that are near impossible to remove and how well does it honestly hold up against scratches and scuffs?

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. If I get some respondents and some interests in my thread, i will post some pics of the current state of my epoxy nightmare.
 
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HunterDan

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2011
Messages
185
Location
Maryland
I just finished my nohr s Polyurea floor from legacy. 3 coats, standRd gray primer, gray Polyurea with flakes, and a clear topcoat of Polyurea. It looks awesome!! I haven't started to move things in yet due to time issues, but I'm hoping it'll hold up.

I asked and was told by Scotty that tires will not leave the yellow marks, and I'm hoping scratches/scuffs will be no issue. Time will tell!
 

LegacyIndustrial

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,995
Location
deerfield, IL
1)What steps should I do to prep an already epoxied floor for a colored Polyurea top coat?
Scuff with 120 grit, taking down the gloss. wipe clean with denatured alcohol on a micro-fiber pad.
2)Without taking cost into consideration, what is the best high solids, 2 part polyurea brand that I can get shipped to CA. (I do not want any of that sissy, cheap, water based, 1 part nonsense) Our Nohr-S Polyurea is better than most and only one component. Fast ship to CA.

3)Will Polyurea get those dreaded tire marks that are near impossible to remove and how well does it honestly hold up against scratches and scuffs? There is no guarantee as tires can leave marks, it's a problem and worse with high performance tires. However, leaving a clear coat as the last coat is the best defense. Wish someone would complain to the tire companies vs us flooring guys. lol.
 

Armorpoxy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
3,735
Location
NJ
Hi,
You could give this floor a light sanding, and a coat of our SPGX with tint pack. Cost runs about 40 cents per sq foot.

No coating can guarantee 100% that it won't stain as certain tires have additives which can leach into even porcelain, and cannot be removed. If tire stains are super important to you, inexpensive parking pads can be purchased for parking on.

Thank you, please call to order for GJ 25% discount.
 
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Burst

New member
Joined
Sep 27, 2016
Messages
2
Location
California
1)What steps should I do to prep an already epoxied floor for a colored Polyurea top coat?
Scuff with 120 grit, taking down the gloss. wipe clean with denatured alcohol on a micro-fiber pad.
2)Without taking cost into consideration, what is the best high solids, 2 part polyurea brand that I can get shipped to CA. (I do not want any of that sissy, cheap, water based, 1 part nonsense) Our Nohr-S Polyurea is better than most and only one component. Fast ship to CA.

3)Will Polyurea get those dreaded tire marks that are near impossible to remove and how well does it honestly hold up against scratches and scuffs? There is no guarantee as tires can leave marks, it's a problem and worse with high performance tires. However, leaving a clear coat as the last coat is the best defense. Wish someone would complain to the tire companies vs us flooring guys. lol.

Thank you for your response! I have heard good things about your Nohr-S system and I am only hesitant because of all the other information saying that 1 part coatings are inferior to two part systems, but like i said, I have heard very good reviews on your product. I have browsed your website and I notice that your Nohr-S comes in a kit for 500.00 for 300sq. ft and 1000.00 for 600 Sq. ft. The problem with that is I only have a little less than 500 sq. ft of garage floor. I also noticed I can buy it buy the quart or gallon. What is the difference between the kit and the stand alone gallons I can buy? and would I need the whole kit seeing as I already have a base of Epoxy?

EDIT: Can your metallic pigment be added to the Nohr-S?

Thank you again for your help, it is making this process a lot easier
 
Last edited:

Shea

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
2,868
Location
California
Don't confuse 1-part polyurea and polyurethane coatings with 1-part epoxy paint. It's the 1-part epoxy paints that are inferior by far. They are just acrylic paint with some epoxy added.
 

LegacyIndustrial

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,995
Location
deerfield, IL
Thank you for your response! I have heard good things about your Nohr-S system and I am only hesitant because of all the other information saying that 1 part coatings are inferior to two part systems, but like i said, I have heard very good reviews on your product. I have browsed your website and I notice that your Nohr-S comes in a kit for 500.00 for 300sq. ft and 1000.00 for 600 Sq. ft. The problem with that is I only have a little less than 500 sq. ft of garage floor. I also noticed I can buy it buy the quart or gallon. What is the difference between the kit and the stand alone gallons I can buy? and would I need the whole kit seeing as I already have a base of Epoxy?

EDIT: Can your metallic pigment be added to the Nohr-S?

Thank you again for your help, it is making this process a lot easier

If you are only top-coating an existing epoxy floor, then you should get away with 300 sq ft per gal coverage. Purchase by the gal. 2 gals should do it for 500 sq.

This is a unique single component product. It's closest cousin is (2) part polyaspartic. Very strong and resilient coating.

No the metallic pigments can only be introduced into our "metallic" (clear) epoxy.

Good luck
 
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