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Help a Newbie Clean Up Some Tools

SouperGrover

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Aug 12, 2015
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Chatsworth, CA
Hey all,

I picked up some #3724 24" Jorgensen Bar clamps second hand and would love to clean them up a bit. The bar is a little rusted, and the wood handles could stand to be cleaned. I might throw some paint on them later if I feel froggy. Any suggestions on removing the rust and cleaning up the handles? Also any suggestions for keeping them clean?

Thanks!
 

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2oolhound

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I like those bar clamps. the only thing I'd do with those is maybe sand the old paint off the wooden handles and use some linseed oil on them so they don't dry out. I wouldn't worry about anything else other than oiling the threads.
 

Dave455

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I think I'd just use some wire wool and light machine oil!

Get any crud off, leave 'em lightly oiled and they are ready to go! If you wanted to clean the wood, use the wire wool without the oil, wipe down and varnish!
 

M6erfan

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On the bar I would use a gray or maroon scotch brite pad with a mild solvent (WD40) to clean them up. Then I would wipe down with Kroil, machine oil, or the like. On the threads, brass brush with WD40, then oil...

For the handles, not sure how far you want to go. Just clean them up with an all purpose cleaner or sand and refinish?
 

Adam.C

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negative. Those are wood working clamps. Oilling the bars will get oil on the wood which may effect the finish. The problem with cleaning the rust off the bars is that once the metal is bare, it rusts more. The rust is often caused by drips of white glue. They get stuck, stop the head from sliding, so you scrape the glue off with a chisel and the finish comes off the arm

My advice is a bit of steel wool, followed by cold gun blue. For the handle, you can do what you want. They are grippier when left bare.
 

M6erfan

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negative. Those are wood working clamps. Oilling the bars will get oil on the wood which may effect the finish. The problem with cleaning the rust off the bars is that once the metal is bare, it rusts more. The rust is often caused by drips of white glue. They get stuck, stop the head from sliding, so you scrape the glue off with a chisel and the finish comes off the arm

My advice is a bit of steel wool, followed by cold gun blue. For the handle, you can do what you want. They are grippier when left bare.

Learned something here, thanks
 
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Adam.C

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Learned something here, thanks

You bet. Here's another gem: Franklin, the people who make titebond white glue say that glue needs 250psi of clamp pressure. That means lots of clamps and just about as tight as you can crank those handles.

No glue is really stronger than the wood. Some can do better cross grain tho. PVA (white glue) is pretty darned strong, but you need a perfect fitting joint and lots of clamps, set very tight.
 

rick carpenter

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Clean the metal with a brass wheel and wax all but the threads. Oil the threads. Sand or strip the handles, stain if you want, and finish. BLO, varnish (or teak oil), and kerosene in close to 1:1:1 is an old-time woodworker's go-to recipe. No need for poly.
 

M6erfan

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clean the metal with a brass wheel and wax all but the threads. Oil the threads. Sand or strip the handles, stain if you want, and finish. Blo, varnish (or teak oil), and kerosene in close to 1:1:1 is an old-time woodworker's go-to recipe. No need for poly.


blo?
 
OP
S

SouperGrover

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Chatsworth, CA
Thanks everyone. I watched a Wood Wisperer video a while ago, too, and he recommended putting something on the bar to keep the glue from sticking in the first place. Can't think of what it was though
 
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