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Help a newbie with a RV/Workshop design!

ryanx1776

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Joined
Aug 17, 2023
Messages
16
Long time lurker, first time poster. go easy! Living in NE Florida.

I am looking for some inspiration on what to build (metal) on my new property and design considerations for someone who is completely new at this. I have a 35ft 5th wheel that I want to park under a lean-to with an attached garage at least 30x40 maybe bigger. so total footprint including the lean to, should be minimum, 45x40, right? Below are a couple ideas I liked but I'd love if someone could share other design ideas that worked well for them or just good tips for an IT geek with little knowledge in this department.

Thanks in advance!
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larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
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16,877
Location
oregon
One thing that struck me when looking at your pictures is make sure that the building is oriented in the correct way. What I mean by that is if the lean to is on the south side of the building then it will not provide protection from the sun 1/2 the year. In my country we want the doors to face east if possible because we have no storms that come from the east. Just something for you to ponder.

lg
no neat sig line
 

tx_mike

Active member
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
39
Location
Richmond TX
We are just wrapping up our shop/rv storage. (Have to finish the electical). I started my design with 30x45 and keeping our camper enclosed. Ended up (budget limited) to 20x45 enclosed for shop and 12x45 lean too for our camper. We also put 12x45 porch along the opposite side. Our trailer is 34ft hitch to bumper. Built it to fit a bit bigger for an upgrade.

If you want to run the camper slides out 12ft isn't wide enough. 15ft wide may not be either. Think about slide location and post spacing.

We Added a skirt down from the top for added shade and protection.
 

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Kpaige

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Aug 12, 2015
Messages
751
Location
Big Lake Minnesota
May I also suggest a sewer dump connection. Just a thought. Had a friend put a dump connection and 30 amp power then when people visit he has a spot for them
 

rktinc

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Nov 25, 2007
Messages
385
Location
Midwest/USA
If you have the space. I would suggest the RV spot be hidden or disguised behind the building. It will help resale or the property and also allow the next owner to have options with such a large space. maybe spend the extra money to widen the addition so it could be closed in and used for implement or other purposes in the future.

I see so many buildings built to house RV's that look so out of place and odd in comparison to the rest of the property. I am not an RV guy so my opinion comes from the perspective that they are monsterous eye-sores that need to be hidden from view in nice neighborhoods so my recommendation may be harsh:)
 
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ryanx1776

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2023
Messages
16
We are just wrapping up our shop/rv storage. (Have to finish the electical). I started my design with 30x45 and keeping our camper enclosed. Ended up (budget limited) to 20x45 enclosed for shop and 12x45 lean too for our camper. We also put 12x45 porch along the opposite side. Our trailer is 34ft hitch to bumper. Built it to fit a bit bigger for an upgrade.

If you want to run the camper slides out 12ft isn't wide enough. 15ft wide may not be either. Think about slide location and post spacing.

We Added a skirt down from the top for added shade and protection.
Thats a nice building. I like that a lot. Thanks for the tips. what do you mean by post spacing? is there any flexibility where the legs go down?
 
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ryanx1776

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Aug 17, 2023
Messages
16
May I also suggest a sewer dump connection. Just a thought. Had a friend put a dump connection and 30 amp power then when people visit he has a spot for them
absolutely. although i think's id have to do this on the DL. this is a residential area. I'm on over 2 acres though so realistically it should be a problem other than the pesky city inspectors. i might have to roll my own
 
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ryanx1776

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2023
Messages
16
If you have the space. I would suggest the RV spot be hidden or disguised behind the building. It will help resale or the property and also allow the next owner to have options with such a large space. maybe spend the extra money to widen the addition so it could be closed in and used for implement or other purposes in the future.

I see so many buildings built to house RV's that look so out of place and odd in comparison to the rest of the property. I am not an RV guy so my opinion comes from the perspective that they are monsterous eye-sores that need to be hidden from view in nice neighborhoods so my recommendation may be harsh:)
you are exactly right. I am very leery of this myself. I'm going to try to tuck it in as much as i can. i think they are ugly myself and i actually had a builder who told me it'd bring down my property value if I went metal. He was trying to to sell me a timber build though
 

sjvicker

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Aug 9, 2014
Messages
602
Location
SW Washington
in my opinion a lean-to that's open to the elements isn't worth it unless you're setting it up for someone to use as a camp or are very constrained on heights like your photo. If you're already planning for a concrete floor its hardly any more material to enclose the lean-to and have complete coverage.
 

Dmm698

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Joined
Sep 21, 2015
Messages
50
From looking at the photo you originally posted, I dont know why you'd bother to have the RV in a lean to. There is maybe 20-25' more metal to cover the additional gable ends. Then the RV is inside full time and out of the elements.
 

dcg9381

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Jun 20, 2018
Messages
11,740
Location
Austin, TX
I have a 40x60x16. You need 16' for 14' door height. The major configuration issue for me is two things:
1) Do I want to fit the truck and the trailer into the building?
2) Do I want to be able to "drive through"?

You're on the right path.

in my opinion a lean-to that's open to the elements isn't worth it unless you're setting it up for someone to use as a camp or are very constrained on heights like your photo. If you're already planning for a concrete floor its hardly any more material to enclose the lean-to and have complete coverage.
I disagree, but live in Texas where sun and hail can both trash RVs. Big advantage to get them under cover.

The major cost is in the concrete... So if you're doing a concrete porch already, yea, it's not much more expensive. If you're doing a rock pad or something like that, it can decrease costs.

If you're going to enclose it (possibly future) like I did, make sure the pad is setup right.
 
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ryanx1776

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Aug 17, 2023
Messages
16
From looking at the photo you originally posted, I dont know why you'd bother to have the RV in a lean to. There is maybe 20-25' more metal to cover the additional gable ends. Then the RV is inside full time and out of the elements.
its very hot and humid here. i would think it might benefit from the airflow but im open to being wrong!
 

tx_mike

Active member
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
39
Location
Richmond TX
Thats a nice building. I like that a lot. Thanks for the tips. what do you mean by post spacing? is there any flexibility where the legs go down?
My building has 3 posts on the lean to/RV area. I am sure you could have them do 4 to not have the post in the center of the building. I can push my camper all the way to the back. (or front) and have room for my slide out. But i want it in the middle for a bit more protection.

we also just have a gravel pad there, concrete gets pricey fast. In this heat we have been having (several weeks over 100) just having the open cover keeps it well protected.

Note on location.. the building is at the back of our 2 acres. bid door faces my neighbor. small patio area and windows face(left side) face my back porch and the street. So what i look at from the house looks nice and no camper view for the public.
 
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