Help? Accidentally draining my boiler system.

[MrWrencher823]

I know this isn't technically garage related. But curiosity got the better of me and I flipped a little tab on my utica boiler system. Now the water is currently draining out. I'm running it along a hose to the sump pump so it's no major mess. But it's stills draining water. How do I go about stopping it from draining? Should I run to the grocery store and get a faucet head?

Does anyone know how to refill it possibly? I can hear my pump for the well kicking on and off.. I'd rather not burn it up.

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[rburke65]

Flip the "tab" back.....

 

[MrWrencher823]

I did. It either sprays pretty rapidly with it upright or pours somewhat rapidly with it down.
I was trying to purge air from the system and may or may have accidentally done this. Haha.

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[mike93lx]

That is a pressure relief valve which is worn out. Get it replaced asap and don't plug it. A failure could result in an explosion.

 

[JackDiddly]

shut off the water supply to the boiler likely its a 1/2" water line going in to the system with a backflow preventer and pressure reducing valve. Then shut off any of the other valves on supply/return to prevent the whole system from draining. You will probably need to get a new one of the pressure relief valves that you flipped open.

 

[JackDiddly]

also kill the power to the boiler so it doesn't fire up while its draining or empty.

 

[MrWrencher823]

Perfect. I shut off the boiler system entirely (gas and electric) and turned off the water inlet valve. It appears to be continually draining. It's probably got quite a bit of water so hopefully that's all I'm dealing with. It has been draining for about a half hour or so. Thanks for letting me know what it is Mike93lx.



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[Badattitude]

You need a new T&P valve as your current one is spent. While it's a good practice to cycle this valve once a year or so, let this be a lesson not to do it during the winter/heating season. And more importantly, the T&P valve is not designed to be an air bleed device. Why were you bleeding it? Was the system opened for service/repair?

You might get lucky by lightly tapping the center shaft to re seat the valve, but it could also get worse. When you go to buy a replacement, buy 2 as it's advisable to always have a spare for times like this...especially during the middle of the night

Are you capable of replacing this valve safely? If not, hire a pro as you could end up with serious burns.

 

[MrWrencher823]

My pipes are making a fair amount of banging noise. My internet research has led me to believe this is caused by air in the system. I have had it off since yesterday morning to allow everything to cool down, in hopes of purging any air.

I will attempt to reset it like you had mentioned. It seems pretty straightforward to replacing it. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't any kind of weird tricks to closing this type of valve.

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[The Cobbler]

you have got good advice here . I have had luck with excersizing them quickly and short bursts open and close. but as already said, learn to do the excersize in an off heat season

 

[Badattitude]

If the pipes were noisy or you could hear water running in the pipes, then yes the system likely has air. There are several possible causes, one of which could be a problem with the make up valve. You really should try to find the cause of the air being admitted or loss of water.

If you do attempt to replace the valve yourself, be sure the water temp is below 100* and drain the water level at or below the T&P valve

Your boiler plumbing should have an air bleed valve similar to this one which is how air is bled from the system automatically...

 

[MrWrencher823]

Thanks for all of the help everyone! I think the system is finally out of water.

Do those air bleed valves possibly go bad over time? I see the air bleed valve.

The boiler system probably hasn't been maintained much in quite a while. I assumed that's partially why it may have had some air sneak into it.

When I purchased the house (over a year ago) they fired up the boiler and tested it during the inspection.
It functioned normally and really never made any noise until the last month or so of my heat being cranked at 70 degrees constantly.



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[Badattitude]

It's possible for the air bleed to become plugged, just be sure the cap on the stem is opened about a 1/2 -3/4 turn.

If the boiler sat unused for a period of time, then yes that could cause the loss of water by evaporation. But equally important is ensuring the make up valve is functioning and supplying water to the boiler.

Even though I mentioned air being admitted as a possibility, I kinda misspoke. Without going into alot of detail, I doubt that is why your pipes have air in them

edit...after you replace the T&P valve and refill the boiler via the make up valve, you should be able to hear the air escape from the air bleed valve. If it doesn't, then yes the valve is likely plugged or your make up valve isn't supplying (enough) water

 

[Thumper68]

To get the air out of the system when you refill there should be a valve on each radiator that you open with a key or screwdriver. I always start at the highest rad and work my way down, usually do it at the beginning of heating season and then again about now. The pump should be running to get the air out.

As the water sits in the heating system it will allow any air bubbles in the system to find the highest point that is why you have to do it every year.

We had our boiler replaced last year and it has been an on going battle to get all the air out.

 

[Badattitude]

Thumper brings up a good point. OP, do you have baseboards or radiators?

You mentioned "I think the system is finally out of water" and if you in fact drained majority of the system, then bleeding the system via the air bleed is not realistic. You'll have to run the circulator pump and bleed it at the radiators as Thumper mentioned or if baseboards, using the boiler drain valves (if equipped) for each zone.

I have baseboards and here are the boiler drain valves I use to purge each zone when needed

 

[Professur]

I'm gonna be that guy. Call a professional. You've no experience with this system. It hasn't been maintained, and it's the middle of winter. 3 strikes ... Not a good place to start a learning curve.

 

[rlitman]

I'm gonna be that guy. Call a professional. You've no experience with this system. It hasn't been maintained, and it's the middle of winter. 3 strikes ... Not a good place to start a learning curve.

I'd say that depends on the circumstances. Spousal conditions, local weather conditions, etc.

If the correct conditions are met, bleeding the system yourself isn't all that difficult. Just a few comments regarding the advice above:

A boiler does not have a T&P valve. It has a pressure relief valve. A water heater has a T&P valve. You'll get funny looks at the plumbing supply house when you ask for the wrong part.

Yes, automatic air bleeders do go bad over time. The mechanism inside cruds up with sludge. They're around seven bucks a piece, and with a couple of wraps of tape, are a piece of cake to replace. Notice that there is a little screw cover over the threaded part on the top. That has a gasket under it that will seal the valve if it starts spitting. It will NOT work as intended (releasing air) if the cap is screwed on tight. Also, these only release a little air at a time. They're not sufficient for getting the air out of a freshly filled system.

If you have an ongoing air issue, I would suspect the expansion tank. My parents and inlaws and cousin all had ancient systems with conventional expansion tanks. They all required bleeding at least once a year. I swapped them with Extrol bladder expansion tanks, and have not needed to bleed in the many years since.

 

[rlitman]

...I have baseboards and here are the boiler drain valves I use to purge each zone when needed

That's the best way to flush most of the air out. With the zone control valves (in your case) closed, you can push all the air through the circuit and out the drain. If the zone valve is open, then the water will just flow backwards and out the drain, without pushing any air.

 

[Badattitude]

A boiler does not have a T&P valve. It has a pressure relief valve. A water heater has a T&P valve. You'll get funny looks at the plumbing supply house when you ask for the wrong part.

Good catch!
Thanks for correcting me

 

[DCarr2]

At my old house we had bleeder valves in the basement that we used to bleed the system. the beauty of that was that I never had to deal with all the seperate bleeders around the house, just keep adding water via the main, and open the bleeder til water comes out.

worked rather well for a system that was 60 years old.

Also, if your boiler seems to not work, replace the thermostat first, even if its brand new, do not attempt to manually run the boiler or you risk a steam explosion which will not only kill you, but most likely level your house.

 

[walrus]

Anybody who is going to run to grocery store to get a faucet might want to think about hiring a pro

 

[Jackfre]

I'm going to be that second guy. Call a pro. Follow him and have him tell you how to best handle air purging with your current set-up. It isn't hard if the system is set up correctly, like BA's. Do replace that relief valve. There was just a boiler explosion in Salem, MA last week which killed someone and they think was caused by someone plugging the relief valve or adding water to a hot boiler incorrectly. When water flashes to steam it expands about 1700X. It is really comforting laying in bed at night after you have been bumping around the boiler wondering if you did it correctly.