HELP & Advice on Rustoleaum Epoxy Paint Sept 18th!

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

Guys, just deleted a LONG Post!

I'll make this quick. I'm Getting Garage Floor done Thursday Septemeber 20th with Rustoleum Expoxy Garage Floor Paint. Going to eventually put a 4 post lift (Bendpak or similar). Have high ceilings so I am going to get a high lift garage door too.

My garage is a 3 car garage that is 660 sq ft. He is also putting a Polyurathane coating on top of the paint on the 2nd day to protect it and make it glossy. Price is $865 (for 1 Top Coat) and $1,000 for a double top coat (said he will just use a 5/8" roller vs. 3/8" to lay down more top coat).My choices are Gray or Tan.

Questions:

1. What color looks better? Gray or Tan?
2. is this a fair price for what he is doing??????????????????
3. Anything else I should do?
4. I want lots of paint flakes. Is this a good idea, or bad?

Here is a quick picture of my garage:

His service Includes:



Prepping the surface by sanding the floor, mild citric acid wash (basically mop it on and off immediately...the idea is to minimize the amount of water used to quicken the dry time), taping off any baseboards, garage door track, water softener, etc and stonework. I will paint up the lip...to the bottom of the drywall, then paint the remainder of the floor. Prep usually takes about 3-4 hours. Drying for about 1 hour, then painting will take 2 1/2-4 hours (depending on difficulty). The floor can be walked on after16-24 hours (depending on the weather). The polyurethane clear coat will go on 16-24(depending on weather) hours later. The clear will take about 2 hours to apply.

I use a big, heavy duty floor sander. The total price will be $865 for the single coat of clear, $1065 (Got him down to $1,000) for the double clear. You will have an additional 100 sqft of epoxy and clear that I will use during the application, so, you will have a slightly thicker than normal coat of both materials. The double clear will be best in the long run, however, doing the single coat will be sufficient."

 

[dandan111]

The 18th wow. I would want to make sure it's the pro series rustoleum. Reviews are not as good on the standard rustoleum.
As for price you can find the cost of materials. I usually figure the cost of materials and double it. So a $500 materials around $1000 with labor for example.
I put down tan,what my wife liked and it turned out real nice.
Good luck

 

[Atamido]

I haven't done my floor yet, so take these answers with a grain of salt.

1. Color is totally personal preference. From pictures, it appears that most people go with gray. I stopped by the local Lowes tonight and they had a hanging thing in front of the concrete paint that showed the gray and the tan colors. If you haven't seen them before, you might want to check them out.

2. If the price includes materials, then it's a great deal for several hours of experienced labor spread over several days. If it's just labor, then it depends on how much experience they have, how much you need their help, and how much money you have to offer. If you have the money, then piece of mind to have experienced help can be worth a lot.

3. You didn't mention what color flakes you're getting (which seems odd as you're asking about paint color). There are several default color combinations you can pick up at local stores, and a practically infinite set of possibilities from places online where you pick what you want. I'm considering mixing some glow in the dark in with my flakes.

4. Amount of flakes also seems to be personal preference. From pictures, it seems that people go anywhere from none to a solid flake covering.


I've only seen people sand if they've already got a sealant on the floor, so I'm assuming you do. I might be concerned about the 1 hour dry time. You'll definitely want to squeegee water off, but unless you live someplace ultra dry like Arizona, your floor will probably still have some damp spots. If you are really that pressed for time, definitely squeegee and pull out some fans to quicken drying. Just make sure the floor is dry.

I think everyone will say that thicker and more coats is better. If you can get two coats of clear, then get it. If you can get two coats of epoxy, then get it.

Also, what dandan111 said about getting the Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield Professional series. The other stuff is water based (as opposed to solvent based), and the consensus is definitely that water based are less reliable if you have to park your cars on it.

 

[dandan111]

Glow in the dark flakes? That may be pretty cool.

 

[jordan369]

Questions:

1. What color looks better? Gray or Tan?
I prefer Gray.
2. is this a fair price for what he is doing??????????????????
Is there a reason you or the installer chose that specific product? If he does good work its a good price but it depends on the product too.
3. Anything else I should do?
Sit back and watch.
4. I want lots of paint flakes. Is this a good idea, or bad?
More flakes the better IMO. I like full coverage. It covers many imperfections.

Mike

 

[salukijac]

I just did my garage with Rustoleum. The kit for a two car garage was ~$115, plus I bought extra flakes (6 bags). I did it myself and most of the work is not doing it but getting ready to do it. I didn't buy the gloss coat but I believe one can will do a 2-car garage and it also costs about ~$100.

On the color, the first time I did the floor in gray. This time around I did it in tan, only because I had bought some cabinets on closeout and the tan color matched the cabinets better. I prefer the gray.

BTW, the first application was about 4 years old and it was in decent shape. Didn't really have to redo it yet, but because of the cabinets I went ahead and changed the color.

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

Guys, Thanks sooooooooo much. It is refreshing to have some smart normal guys on this forum. OK, maybe I need to slow down a bit. I can have him do it whenever I want to.

First of all,YES this price includes everything. I just sit back and boss him around and whack him if he gets out of line. "Quit slacking Dickey"!!!! lOL (kidding).....

Second, I am confirming if this is Premium. As of this post, I DO NOT KNOW???????

YES, there is a reason he is using Rustoleum Epoxy Shield Garage Floor Coating. He bought a BUNCH of it at a surplus store cheap, so this is what he has! He has MORE Tan than Gray and seems to be pushing the Tan (not really, but I can see why he would, he has more).

He said in HIS OPINION, the tan looked better and more shiney,. My walls as you can see are light brown, BUT, I don't think you necisarrily have to match the painted color of your garage walls. He also told me that the Gray, because of the darker color, soaks into the concrete more and thus, yields a darker more industrial look. Also, Remeber that he DOES puts a Top Polyurathane Coat over the Expoxy paint on day 2 and says this is what really differentiates his process and will make it LOOK great and LAST much longer and be more viable for heavy use.

He hasn't seen my garage except in pictures, but has done several and knows what he is doing. He spent 30-45 minutes on phone over 2-3 conversations over the last week.

I REALLY like the gray color with the Blue, White, Black Flakes seen below. I think this is the standard flakes that comes with the Gray Kit, so this is what he has. I could always go to Lowes and buy more. I like having a few glow in the dark ones, COOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Never though of that!!

Also, I live North of Dallas, TX. Here are a few pics of my garage (The BMW is from an OLD picture and don't have it anymore).

I really like Gray, but am trying to convince myself I liek the Tan better because he keeps talking it up and says it will match walls better AND make my (Oneday) Red or Blue 4 Post Lift POP!!!!!!!!

OK I am going to be late for work guys so got to run. I am thinking I need to postpone until next week. I am a planner and a Picky SOB (as this guy is finding out, LOL), so maybe I need to sit back and get everyuthing right. on the other hand, this is a good deal for having an EXPERT do it and it is still warm out and it will be good to get it completed.

I asked if it was PREMIUM???????????????? We will see? Also, if it is not, he DOES PUT THAT TOP Polyurathane coat on it, so I assume, that will Help a great deal no matter what kind of Epoxy Paint Grade from RustOleum he uses. Also, I am paying for and getting a double/or thicker coat of Polyurathane (He is using a 5/8" roller vs 3/8" standard roller he normally uses).

Thanks guys for all your information, opinions, and help!!!!!!
I really sincerely appreciate it and you taking the time to read and comment.


Bandit............... (Gary)

P.S. To help you guys with helping me pick the Color. The cars and other stuff parked on it will be the following:

2006 Lexus RX 3330 White
2001 Corvette Red
2009 Infiniti G37 Black
Seadoo GSX Linited (Red)

 

[drinkmoresake]

I used the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy on my floor and am very happy with it. A couple suggestions:

1) You said the installer confirmed it is the "Premium". I might be splitting hairs here but the solvent based epoxy that Rustoleum makes is called "Professional Epoxy Shield" not "Premium". I would make sure you & he are talking about the same product and that it is solvent based, not water based.

2) Make sure he doesn't try to rush the dry time after the final wash. From what the folks at Rustoleum told me their epoxy does not do so well if there is any residual moisture (I let mine dry for about 4 days, with very large fan blowing the whole time).

3) His estimate makes no mention of adding anti-slip to the clear coat. Without it you will have a very nice looking ice rink when it gets wet.

4) Color is definitely a matter of choice, but for what it is worth I went with the gray w/ the standard flakes. Went very nicely with the blue & black trim in my garage.

 

[drinkmoresake]

Sorry, one more thing. You said the reason the installer is able to give you a good deal is because he got the material at a surplpus store. You might want to confirm the manufacturing. I believe it has a 5 year shelf life. Not sure what impact additional aging might have but better to be safe than sorry!

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

Sake,

Much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't think the Epoxy is 5 years old. I am sure it is fine, but I will look at teh DATE on the can, or ask him to confirm. i don't just ASK, I LOOK! Can't trust anyone these days!

There is a Picture of My Garage, so that might make your OPINION on Gray or Tan easier for my particular garage. Also, I will liley have a Blue BENDPAK List on it (4-Post).

SHOULD I ADD Anti Slip???????????? Heck I could go buy some and give it to him before he starts on that part. is it avaliable at Lowes or Hiome Depot? I live in Dallas basically (Flower Mound area), so we have all the main stortes here.

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

Might go with the TAN. My buddy does floors and says to use that.

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

What do you guys think of adding the FLAKES that come in the GRAY kit, on a TAN Floor?

i am going to have a BLUE Bendpak 4 post lift one day and have a Red Vette.

Found this picture

What do you think???????????????

Or, go with standard Tan Flakes in Kit??????????

 

[bdamico]

gross but it's not my floor

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Quickly throw the rustoleum into the trash and pick up some epoxy-coat or hd system from us.

That is all the help you need.

 

[jordan369]

Anti slip is a good idea. I would go with tan flakes but I don't think the other flakes are that bad.

Is the installer offering a warranty for the product and labor?

Mike

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

Mike, I am likley just going to go with the flakes that come with it. I just liked the blue in there as it will be picked up by my Blue 4 post Lift (Nov-Dec 2012).


BUT as I said, I think I will juststay with the Norm.

Warranty I need to ask, but this is what I figure. I KNOW the product he is using (basically), and even if it is the water based one, it is still a good product, especially coupled with the fact that he isadding a Polyurathane Top Coat over the Epoxy Pain.

I KNOW his prep is going to be very good (sanding etc!), so I don't anticipate it coming up in a year or two (hopefully NEVER), but he will be long gone by then. So I am taking a chance, but an educated chance.

He won't get paid until it is complete and I will make sure he does it right, so the result should be as good or better than anyone on here that isn't a PRO who used this product.

For $850-$1,000 (less if I go only 1 layer of Ploy), I would barely be able to buy all the Epoxy, Polyurathane, rent a sander, brushes, etc etc etc. I think it is a pretty good deal. I had a guy quote me $450 for my garage and I think he uses the same paint, BUT he wasn't going to sand and I knwo he didn't use a poly top coat. So, I think I am in a comfortable range of getting a nice floor for a decent price that should last a long time and look a heck of a lot better than it does now.

Thanks guys!

P.S. he said he has a lot fo paint flakes, so how many should he use for a 630 sq ft garage? If I want a fairly heavy application "broadcast" (LOL) of these. See I am learning....

Bandit..................

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

wow this is is really cool garage specially the 2 cars i really love it

i thought you were talking to the other GUY! Seriously.

Yes have the 2001 heavily modded (11.2 in the 1/4 mile @ 126MPH) Vette with 33k MILES. The BMW was sold a few years back.

June 2012 sold my 1999 Pathfinder with 253,000 miles I owned since 2003 and got a much needed upgrade. A 2009 Infiniti G37 Sedan. I have a bunch of mods in my hallway to install

1.. Hotchkiss Sway Bars (Front/Rear)
2. ARK Grip Cat Back Exhaust
3. StopTech Drilled & Slotted Rotors & Posi Quiet Pads(Front/Rear)
4. StopTech Stainless Steel Brakes Lines(Front/Rear)
5. Eibach Pro-Kit Springs & Eibach
6. Eibach Front & Rear Camber Kit
Already on:
19" OEM Infiniti Coupe Sport Rims & 19" tires (on my sedan)
LED interior lights (no punk looking, very white and bright, looks classy)
aluminum pedals

And have a 2006 White Lexus RX330. (Not shown)

I am getting a lift so I can park all 3 cars in the garage and for minor repaiur work. if you notice, my ceilings are very tall (I think 13 feet or more).

I am getting a "High Lift" Garage Door so it opens much higher (almost at the top of the ceiling). That way I can lift up my car really high and not interfere with the door and it will look cleaner without a track and garage door opener unit hanging in the middle of the garage.Something like this below.

Video Below:


http://vimeo.com/24939963

Thanks Guys!

The Bandit..............

 

[jordan369]

If your happy with it that's all the matters.

As far as flakes I would go with full broadcast. More the merrier.

Mike

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

Thanks Jordan. I HOPE I am happy. I will LOVE to look atr my garage when it is all nice and neatly painted. Brings a tear to my eye. I have a real cool garage for it just coming with the house (high ceilings).

Now it will look classy! and MEAN!

 

[Atamido]

SHOULD I ADD Anti Slip???????????? Heck I could go buy some and give it to him before he starts on that part. is it avaliable at Lowes or Hiome Depot? I live in Dallas basically (Flower Mound area), so we have all the main stortes here.

Yes, definitely get some anti-slip. Both Home Depot and Lowes sell anti-slip additive. However, the most popular kind seems to be SharkGrip, and I saw some at Lowes last night. (Online Lowes has the pictures swapped for the sizes. )


Familiarize yourself with the packaging look of the different types of Rust-Oleum EPOXYShield products "rated" for garage floors, they are very similar and easy to confuse:

Floor Paint
Garage
Professional
Premium Clear

The Floor Paint is paint in a can. Don't use it. The Garage is a water-based 2 part epoxy. Very mixed reviews on the water-based epoxy, with many people experiencing "hot tire pick up". I would avoid it. The Professional is a solvent-based 2 part epoxy that is 70% solids. This is what people are happy with. The Premium Clear is a solvent-based 2 part epoxy. It's essentially the same as the Professional, but without the coloring.

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

Warranty is 2 Years parts & Labor (Not sure how easy to enforce, the guy might move to Mississippi). Don't anticipate an issue in 2 years anyway, espcially with the prep he is doing.

Water Based (my friend said that paints these for a living) is FINE! He said it is all about the moisture content of the product (It was a 3 letter acronym he used). His product is one of the best for this Metric and he diamond grinds the floor, BUT, his costs $2,500-$3,000.

Mixed reviews on tyhe regular paint are common, but I would guess, that the ones that had Bad Reviews aren't being applied by a professional that has done this many, many, times.

He was very upfront and honest and have communicated with him 5-6 times, 3 on the phone. He said I could BUY all the materials MYSELF for $300, Paint, top coat, tape, brushes, rent a sander, etc etc. For his expertise I am happy to pay $500-$700 depending on how thick i go on Top Poly Coat.

 

[drinkmoresake]

Water Based (my friend said that paints these for a living) is FINE! He said it is all about the moisture content of the product (It was a 3 letter acronym he used). His product is one of the best for this Metric and he diamond grinds the floor, BUT, his costs $2,500-$3,000. QUOTE]

Based on everything I have seen, read, heard, etc the water-based epoxy is junk. I would avoid it at all cost.

 

[dandan111]

I'm sure a lot can be said for a guy that's done it many times bit I would worry about the dreaded tire pick up. My buddy had tire pick up with this water based stuff and rustoleum sent him a free kit for touch up.
I wish they would take it off the market.

 

[Jim B]

Quickly throw the rustoleum into the trash and pick up some epoxy-coat or hd system from us.

That is all the help you need.

This ^^

 

[bdamico]

You keep saying this guy is good but you don't hear anyone here sanding the floor as the prep.

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

I am saying he is good because he has done it a lot. Not saying he is the best in the world, but better than most people trying to do it themselves.

If you did it 50 times I assume you would also be good. I don't care if he sprinkles Milk on the floor, whatever works, right!

Sanding the floor is better (I would think) than acid etching. It's more work, more time, and more $$$$. It is how many people do it now. Many don't do it because it is alot of work and you need the machine and you can geta good result result with the acid, but there is no way your going to open ip the pores in the concrete as well as sanding.

Also, I have a sealed concrete garage and sanding will take care of that.

If there are any experts in here, is sanding the floor BAD??????????????

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

I'm sure a lot can be said for a guy that's done it many times bit I would worry about the dreaded tire pick up. My buddy had tire pick up with this water based stuff and rustoleum sent him a free kit for touch up.
I wish they would take it off the market.

Did your buddy have Polyurathane Clear coat on top of his Epoxy Paint??

I doubt it, but I will. I think that step is a critical step in getting such good results. i am sure anyoner will tell yuou ADDING a top coat of Polyurathane will make the surface much more durable and last much longer.


At least I would assume so.

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

he might start tomorrow the 21st, OR, Saturday Septemeber 22nd!

 

[bdamico]

I am saying he is good because he has done it a lot. Not saying he is the best in the world, but better than most people trying to do it themselves.

If you did it 50 times I assume you would also be good. I don't care if he sprinkles Milk on the floor, whatever works, right!

Sanding the floor is better (I would think) than acid etching. It's more work, more time, and more $$$$. It is how many people do it now. Many don't do it because it is alot of work and you need the machine and you can geta good result result with the acid, but there is no way your going to open ip the pores in the concrete as well as sanding.

Also, I have a sealed concrete garage and sanding will take care of that.

If there are any experts in here, is sanding the floor BAD??????????????

Did he use the word sand or the word grind?

 

[bdamico]

Did your buddy have Polyurathane Clear coat on top of his Epoxy Paint??

I doubt it, but I will. I think that step is a critical step in getting such good results. i am sure anyoner will tell yuou ADDING a top coat of Polyurathane will make the surface much more durable and last much longer.


At least I would assume so.

Not if the epoxy is not properly bonded to the concrete.

 

[dandan111]

I do not think my buddy has any clear.

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

Guys I am DOING it, YES, Septemeber 22nd 2012 at 8:30AM he starts. I am confident in his ability after speaking to him and he came by today to look at everything. My floor is partially sealed and has some different colors, btu he said it will be fine when he si done with it. He is also painting my WALL. On the right side of my garage as you are facing inside the garage, my right wall has 3 feet of concrete before ther eis a baseboard. he said he will also paint and poly top coat that too.

$1,000 is well worth it. If it looks bad in a year I will be a sucker, BUT, I don't think that is going to eb the case.

Will post pics when he is done. Coming back Sunday evening to apply Top Coat of Polyurathane. Garage is 650 sq ft.

He is prepping the best you can so i am not sure why everyone is acting like he is going to do a substandard job. I bet most of you guys just acid etched the floor anyway and it probably came out good.

Again, the proof is in the pudding. I just hope it looks good when it is all done and dried.

Pics to follow next week!

 

[[email protected]]

I uploaded some pictures of the Rustoleum Pro that I put down. Only acid etch, no clear coat.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159194&page=2

 

[bdamico]

He is prepping the best you can so i am not sure why everyone is acting like he is going to do a substandard job. I bet most of you guys just acid etched the floor anyway and it probably came out good.

Again, the proof is in the pudding. I just hope it looks good when it is all done and dried.

Pics to follow next week!

Actually, that's not the case. You came here asking for advice and kept saying this guy is going to sand your floor, which you say is the best prep. I just asked a simple question like is the guy going to grind the floor, which is what people do, or sand it. If you just didn't want to answer that's fine. If you don't want to find out if this guy knows what he's doing, good luck to you. I was just trying to help you not be a sucker. I've done my own epoxy jobs. But when I came on here to find out more about tiling my new garage, people were nice enough to point out to me what we were doing wrong.

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

It's cool and YES I want ALL the advice I can get. I appreciate it and wasn't trying to come off rude. I just want my darn floor painted, that's all.

I think he is going to use a sander (vs grinder), BUT all I know is he wasn't worried about the sealer on there because he is going to get rid of it by sanding it with his power sander.

I am just saying, eventually I need to just go for it. I did research and think this guy is expereinced enough that it will come out much better than I could do myself and for how cheap it is, I could barely rent the sander and buy all the supplies I would need to make it worth the money I would have saved by doing it myself.

My garage is big and has many lips in it and things that need to be taped off etc. I am happy to sit back and watch. I am at the point of no return. He is doing it tomorrow, so if I missed something, I will be the one paying the price. I am confident I will be satisfied. If I am not, I will just go Cry..............

P.S. I hope I am not crying next week.

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

Here is what my Buddy uses to GRIND (he is not in same city as me). This is his son.
https://sphotos-a.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/561110_10151071444764076_1016627762_n.jpg

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

My guy will likley be on his hands and knees with a hand held sand paper Block (LOL).........

This is what my guy uses. If it's a big job, he brings two.

 

[dandan111]

A little orbit sander? Make sure the floor is super clean with no greese spots.

Good luck,
Post a picture after its done.

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

I was just KIDDING (it was a joke),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Dan LOL. Come on man!

Actually it is a walk behind sander, but it isn't HUGE. He said he sands, not resurfaces the floor. He is taping off the entire garage with Blue Painters Tape and he is painting my conctrete wall next to the stairs. See pics below:

Took everything out last night until 2 AM! My back hurts. he is out there right now working. It is alot of work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Glad I didn't do it.

He's painting this wall next to stairs too.

https://sphotos-b.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/471163_4521946497100_1064069159_o.jpg

Want to take some pics if him, btu don't want to bother him right this second.

 

[dandan111]

Glade it was a joke I was think what the hell. No turning back now,moving all that stuff out is the worst part.