HELP! Broken drain in compressor

[Jim Stabe]

I have my 80 gal 2 stage Porter Cable compressor mounted in a mezanine in my shop and it was making a lot of noise when it ran. Bought some vibration mounts from McMaster and was going to install them. I had plumbed the drain through a 1/4" street elbow to outside the base and then down through a hole in the mezanine floor to a valve below so I could drain it. I had to disconnect the drain piping to put the vib mounts in and in the process broke off the street elbow in the bottom plug of the tank. No problem I thought, I'll get an easy out and remove the threaded protion. In retrospect I probably should have drilled out the hole and tapped it for the next larger pipe size rather than breaking the easy out in the hole. I tried removing the plug in the bottom of the tank (that the pipe fitting threaded into) but it wouldn't budge. I would have used the impact gun but difficult without compressed air. Are these things welded in place?

Any good ideas would be appreciated

 

[Speed-Racer]

It would be nice to have a picture of what you are working with.

I have had good luck heating the pipe threads and then using wax, the wax is melted and pulled into the threads as it cools and then use a left drill bit, hopefully it will back out for you. Read an interesting thread about which wax to use on GJ a few months back, I just used an old candle, not sure if it was bees wax or paraffin, think both will work the same. Good Luck.

 

[Mickey O]

I hate when a simple job turns into a nightmare. Yeah, pictures would be nice, I took pictures of my compressors below that may be similar. One is the top of one (couldn't get to drain) and the other is the drain on a small one. Both illustrate the bushing the that screws into the tank with the 1/4" npt output. Without seeing yours it's hard to recommend how to remove the broken easy-out, sometimes a needle nose pliers jiggling it around works, maybe a pick or a dremmel tool. If you're looking to remove the bushing from the tank heat will help along with a big pipe wrench, they usually you a loctite type pipe dope on those fittings and the paint makes it harder to remove as well (a utility knife to cut the paint).

 

[Jim Stabe]

I'm at work but I'll take some pictures tonight. The bushing looks exactly like the grey one in the first photo only it has a broken easy out in it in place of the 14" pipe fitting. I'm going to drain the oil in the pump and lay it down on its side so I can get at it better.

 

[rhandwor]

You can drill out an easy out with a tungsten carbide steel drill.
http://www.ebay.com/ search item 190344557228

 

[A_Pmech]

Are these things welded in place?

Any good ideas would be appreciated

Argh! This is why I threw out my "easy outs" a long time ago. I HATE those things with a passion.

No, not welded, just close... Years of corrosion from water in the bottom of the tank and water seeping into the threads causing rust. Of course, you probably can't get a 36" or 48" pipe wrench in there because of the feet!

I would pound the easy out though the pipe fitting and into the tank. If there is too much of the easy out to drive though, weld a 3/16" welding rod onto the end of the easy out and yank on the rod with a BIG slide hammer. Might take a couple of welding attempts.

Then, I would drill the fitting out about .02" smaller than the minimum minor diameter of the internal pipe thread. Spiral out the remainder of the thread with a pick and fish out the easy out with a magnet. Install a new fitting.

Done carefully, you will not damage the internal thread. I've done the drilling part many times with good results, hopefully it will work in your case.

 

[mjozefow]

If it is an option you can heat up an easy out red hot with a torch causing it to lose it's hardness. Let it cool slowly then drill out with a standard HSS bit like A_Pmech said.

I've broken several Easy-outs and this was how I got them out. It is enough to drive you nuts. I threw mine away.

 

[mustangcrazy77]

I just went through the EXACT same thing...although it was on a 40 gallon side-tank. What I did was weld onto the easy out with enough material to fit a decent sized nut over it. I then welded the new material to the nut fully and just turned it clockwise to release the easy-out and it came out SUPER easy. I re-drilled things out with the proper sized drill for a 1/4" NPT and the threads of the former street coiled around the drill bit. I simply re-tappped the hole and viaola, good as new.

The only easy-out's I had any type of luck with were the square taper type. I should have known better than to use the cheap-o's.

 

[Jim Stabe]

Here's an update on the easy-out fiasco. I drained the oil from the pump and laid the tank on its side. I borrowed my neighbor's 6 point 1 1/8" socket and dressed up the hex on the large plug in the bottom so it would fit all the way on. I had a 3' cheater on the breaker bar and it wouldn't budge. Tried heating it, beating it with a hammer - nothing. I cut an access hole in the floor under the drain, then I stood it back up, filled it with oil and pumped it up to 175 psi. I used my impact gun on it to try to break it loose - no luck. Here is a picture of the stupid thing.


Next I'm going to try drilling it out as rhandwor suggested. I'll let you know what works.

 

[Art From De Leon]

You tried removing the plug with 175 psi in the tank???????????

Assuming the plug is 2", you have 550 lbs force behind it.

 

[mustangcrazy77]

Do you own a welder or know someone who does? Seriously, the easiest way to remove a broken easy out is to weld a nut on it and turn it clockwise. Once you do that, it's only a matter of using a standard drill and re-drilling and tapping it with a 1/4" npt tap.

 

[Jim Stabe]

You tried removing the plug with 175 psi in the tank???????????

Assuming the plug is 2", you have 550 lbs force behind it.

Trust me, I was just looking for the slightest movement in the plug and I would stop, drain the air and take the plug out with a wrench.

 

[Jim Stabe]

Do you own a welder or know someone who does? Seriously, the easiest way to remove a broken easy out is to weld a nut on it and turn it clockwise. Once you do that, it's only a matter of using a standard drill and re-drilling and tapping it with a 1/4" npt tap.

Someone else recommended the same thing. I think I'll give it a try tonight.

 

[scottg1952]

Yeah weld as nut to the stub.
Pick a nut you can weld down through, without hitting the outside.
Now quick, Use pliers while its still red hot!

I have pulled a lot of broken bolts this way. Lots.
As long as the work is still hot, it'll move, most times.
yours Scott

 

[scooby074]

Welder works .

try heating the plug with the tank empty using a torch. Get as big a pipe wrench as you can in there and go at it/

Rust and pipe dope have glued the plug in good.

 

[Jim Stabe]

Welded on the nut, wiggled it while it was hot and out it came - well half of it anyway. The pointy end had broken off and was still wedged up in the hole. Couldn't knock it through so I got out the dremel with some tiny diamond burrs and started whittleing on it. Took about an hour but I finally got it and the remnants of the fitting out. It did booger up the pipe threads a little though but I'm going to drill it out and tap for a 3/8 npt and be done. Any recommendations for sealant that won't lock up the new piece when it rusts - it is a drain afterall. I was also thinking of using stainless for the connection to the tank, good idea or no?

 

[cambyz28]

Any recommendations for sealant that won't lock up the new piece when it rusts - it is a drain afterall. I was also thinking of using stainless for the connection to the tank, good idea or no?

I always used teflon tape and stainless steel fittings, tubing, and valves never had problems. In my experience

 

[mrjsl]

Welded on the nut, wiggled it while it was hot and out it came - well half of it anyway. The pointy end had broken off and was still wedged up in the hole. Couldn't knock it through so I got out the dremel with some tiny diamond burrs and started whittleing on it. Took about an hour but I finally got it and the remnants of the fitting out. It did booger up the pipe threads a little though but I'm going to drill it out and tap for a 3/8 npt and be done. Any recommendations for sealant that won't lock up the new piece when it rusts - it is a drain afterall. I was also thinking of using stainless for the connection to the tank, good idea or no?

IMO, brass would be a better choice.

 

[A_Pmech]

Sounds like you have it, Jim.

Brass would be my choice as well.

Regarding sealant, I would use both teflon pipe dope AND teflon tape. Something about the combination of the two really helps to stop leaks. An old-time plumber turned me onto the practice. Put the tape on, then dope up the tape.

As far as the valve, I'm running a regular old brass and chromed steel ball valve on mine. 7 years and counting, it drains just fine. Might be a good time to install an auto drain while you have it apart?

 

[Jim Stabe]

Sounds like you have it, Jim.

Brass would be my choice as well.

Regarding sealant, I would use both teflon pipe dope AND teflon tape. Something about the combination of the two really helps to stop leaks. An old-time plumber turned me onto the practice. Put the tape on, then dope up the tape.

As far as the valve, I'm running a regular old brass and chromed steel ball valve on mine. 7 years and counting, it drains just fine. Might be a good time to install an auto drain while you have it apart?

Good tip on the sealant, I'll remember that one.

I have my compressor up in the mezanine and I ran a pipe from the drain fitting down to a valve by the breaker box that shuts off the power when I'm not using it. It was the fitting that threads into the bottom of the tank that I broke off and started this saga. I think that when I hook it back up this time I will have a flexible piece in the line to avoid fatiguing the fitting especially since the vibration mounts allow a greater range of motion than it had before.

 

[A_Pmech]

Jim,

Good idea on the flex hose, if you have a lot of plumbing attached to the drain, you definitely have a fatigue point at the tank plug.

 

[Mickey O]

Use brass, do NOT use stainless you'll have the same problem again. They make anti-seize teflon tape and "dope", you can get it at Grainger or plumbing supplier, etc.

 

[Jim Stabe]

I found a 3' hose with 200 psi working pressure and brass 3/8" male npt fittings on the ends. I'm going to thread it into the tank bottom and run it to the existing piping for the drain valve with a brass union so I can take it apart in the future. Should be back up and running tonight.

Thanks everyone.