Help Bury a Pressure Reducing Water Valve

[vpracer]

Ok, dumb plumbing question.

I have 1 1/4" pvc water pipe coming from the meter box for about 300 ft to the house. I measure water pressure at the house faucets and have 95psi. Way to high. Therefore, I'm installing a PRV to get me closer to 50psi. My problem is the pipe is buried about 3 ft in the ground. So I am contemplating options: 1) put the valve in line with the pipe, maintain volume and build some sort of deep access vault for valve servicing, I don't like the idea of laying on my stomach to service the valve or 2) raise the pipe level up closer to ground level via 4 90 degree elbows/4 45 degree connectors and then have the valve installed closer to ground level and use a typical irrigation valve box.

My concern with option 2 is that 4 elbows will reduce flow and impact my water volume in the house. I think pressure will be fine but volume could be restricted. Any one have a good idea on which way to proceed or thoughts?

Bury deep or raise valve height?

 

[Lincoln33]

I don't know where you live but if you go too shallow you could have problems with the valve freezing in the winter.

 

[Darryl2]

If you raise the height the line can freeze depending on where you live.

Is there not a suitable location in the house where the service enters the home? Should be a shut off valve there and a good spot to mount it unless perhaps you live in a slab built home?

You will also want to install an expansion tank.

 

[alcorelli]

Inch and a quarter, and you are worried about reducing flow to a residential house?
Around here 3/4 is common, and occasionally one inch for larger homes.


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[Sakera15]

If you raise the height the line can freeze depending on where you live.

Is there not a suitable location in the house where the service enters the home? Should be a shut off valve there and a good spot to mount it unless perhaps you live in a slab built home?

You will also want to install an expansion tank.

+1

 

[kd3pc]

None of the above,

my valves have always been in the house in the basement or crawl space as one of the first things the water supply encounters.

You might want to install yours similarly, rather than 3' deep or ....

this is much easier to install, adjust or replace when you need to

 

[vpracer]

I live in Texas so freeze not an issue. House uses PEX so easier for me to work with pvc and it allows me to reduce pressure on the water going to my shop if I put the valve outside. House slab built and no basements here in texas.

 

[Git]

Keep in mind you will probably have to rebuild the regulator at some point. Usually you're able to buy a kit (diaghram, needle valve etc) and it's not hard to do, but you will need access or probably better yet, be sure to put in unions before and after the regulator

 

[vpracer]

Good reminder on unions. I found a valve with double unions. Will make it easier to service. Just trying to decide whether to install it ground level or in line with pipe,3 ft down. I sized the new service pipe strictly on the distance from the meter to the house. It’s a newly built house so I ran new water line, cheaper to upsize. It’s a rural water supply system, has decent pressure obviously but I am close to the end of the line. The more people that get added, I wonder if it’ll impact me at some point.

 

[TonyJ]

Have your water company install a different meter setter that has the built in prv that way you lower the pressure on the whole 300 ft of line and the house at the same time or if they won’t then dig up your line outside the meter box and put it on the end of their pigtailwhere your line connects. Then you can get a piece of pipe about the same diameter as the meter box and set it over the prv and put a steel lid on top but leave it right under the sod so it you ever need access again it won’t be that much to dig up


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[vpracer]

I did ask water Co but they say it’s a home owner project. Good idea on install close to the meter. I was worried about distance of “regulated” water flow to the house which is why I thought I should install closer to the house. As I type, I have heard of people install PRV closer to meter. Hmmm. I’ll research more. Thanks.

 

[sberry]

We need a bit of theory here. Pressure makes volume. Put the valve at the house. It will make almost 2x at 95 as it will at 50. But at that pressure a 3/4 would have worked for residential. Dig, bury straight thru and fill with something relatively easy to dig up again, 3 ft isn't that far.

 

[jubilee]

I’m wondering what’s wrong with 95 psi. Our home of over 45 years has 110-120 psi. Love it. Previous home was on well with 45-50. Am reminded of 45-50 psi every time we take a trip in the RV. Don’t like it. Shower feels like you’re pouring it out of a bucket.
House is all copper plumbed built in 1961. Do have a regulator on the stand alone ice maker set at about 30 psi.

 

[sberry]

45 or 50 isn't bad, is quite good. I suspect your well went from 30 to 50. At 30 it is a little slow. Turning it down to a modest roar will save a lot of water, he is on a meter.

 

[like2wheel]

I’m wondering what’s wrong with 95 psi. Our home of over 45 years has 110-120 psi. Love it. Previous home was on well with 45-50. Am reminded of 45-50 psi every time we take a trip in the RV. Don’t like it. Shower feels like you’re pouring it out of a bucket.
House is all copper plumbed built in 1961. Do have a regulator on the stand alone ice maker set at about 30 psi.

Recently checked mine, 100psi. Seemed high to me so I asked my plumber cousin. He said enjoy the pressure.
Been here 25 years, not sure if it was always that high, but seems the same.

I did have a new oscillating split open a few years ago. I blamed China.

 

[Git]

High water pressure causes leaks. Check the building code for your area. Probably says something about being in-between 20 and 80 psi

 

[LS6 Tommy]

High water pressure causes leaks. Check the building code for your area. Probably says something about being in-between 20 and 80 psi

X2. Most appliances & plumbing fixtures are recommended to run about 75-85 psig, many appliances are rated for 120 psig max. My city water was 125+ psig before I installed a PRV. Blew up garden hoses all the time and the dishwasher and washing machine had nice water hammers.

Everything is good at 80 psig and I have no issues with volume.

Tommy

 

[SGKent]

I’m wondering what’s wrong with 95 psi. Our home of over 45 years has 110-120 psi. Love it. Previous home was on well with 45-50. Am reminded of 45-50 psi every time we take a trip in the RV. Don’t like it. Shower feels like you’re pouring it out of a bucket.
House is all copper plumbed built in 1961. Do have a regulator on the stand alone ice maker set at about 30 psi.

being up at that pressure is great for water delivery but appliances and pipes are more prone to failure. Most sprinkler systems mist out at that pressure too so one is watering the air more than the lawn. 50 - 60 PSI is generally considered acceptable. Water (or electricity if on a pump) used is considerably less when the pressure is reduced.

 

[gpiggaz]

I can tell you the 1 1/4" PRV is pretty expensive, I think I paid almost $600 for just the valve. I just had mine replaced, Should have rebuilt it would have been cheaper. Use double unions so you can get it out. And don't let them install it backwards ( my plumber did and I had to point out the arrow on it that's another story) I'd bury it but only in an accessible box. If mine ever fails again, I'll rebuild it now that I know how to take it apart. The old one just was clogged up. And you don't want 95PSI at the house, it will eventually blow the valves in everything.

 

[Jeepster04]

I've got my regulator maxed out and Im getting 60psi at my house. with 3/4" plumbing Im more than happy with the pressure and flow.

Some of the house has 1/2" plumbing and you can tell a difference over the 3/4" plumbing.

I too wouldnt like having 95psi coming into my house. Personally I would put it in the house where the line comes in.

Dont forget to change the pressure in the bladder on your water heater.... I imagine no one does that but I do...

 

[Git]

I can tell you the 1 1/4" PRV is pretty expensive, I think I paid almost $600 for just the valve. I just had mine replaced, Should have rebuilt it would have been cheaper. Use double unions so you can get it out. And don't let them install it backwards ( my plumber did and I had to point out the arrow on it that's another story) I'd bury it but only in an accessible box. If mine ever fails again, I'll rebuild it now that I know how to take it apart. The old one just was clogged up. And you don't want 95PSI at the house, it will eventually blow the valves in everything.

Was it Gold Plated? Replacement for my 1 1/4 was going to be around $330, but I found the rebuild kit for it which was $60 at the time. Fortunately, mine is on the inside garage sidewall and is real easy to get to

 

[vpracer]

Thanks for all the reply's.

I did note, the 1 1/4 valve seemed much more expensive that say a 1". Guess its not so common therefore, mark it up. No water heaters to deal with as I have tankless and can't imagine that 50-60psi would be a problem for a tankless.

I do think I'll bury close by the meter, put in a valve box so it'll be easier to access. I think burying 3' down will bite me one day.

 

[sberry]

Ya,,, the terror of digging it up,,, all 3 ft of it. But,,, put inch in at that point, doubt it makes a difference, after all the goal is to reduce pressure and the difference for that distance is rather minor.

 

[Twystd1]

Uhhh. Pressure regulators need air on the back side of the diaphragm to work.

As the regulator needs to see atmospheric pressure on one side of the adjustable diaphragm to function correctly.

I'm wondering if burying it will make it not adjust correctly. Hmmmm.

Something to think about.

-T

 

[SGKent]

besides the ambient pressure thing - 5 years is about what the diaphragms and springs last reliably. It goes by pretty fast as you get older.