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Help! Can't remove compressor air tank bushing fitting

sselander

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Nov 20, 2008
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CT
The Sears prefix 919 indicates the compressor was made by Devilbiss.
You should contact them for support.
In many cases another company manufacturers the tank, do you see any tags on the tank itself that would identify the manufacturer?
 
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aznxstazy

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Jun 2, 2012
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The Sears prefix 919 indicates the compressor was made by Devilbiss.
You should contact them for support.
In many cases another company manufacturers the tank, do you see any tags on the tank itself that would identify the manufacturer?

no, it just says craftsman professional. I know that doesn't help much..

sears model # 919-16560. All I could find, called sears rep, he said the parts N/A and I would have to buy a whole new tank. The tank was also N/A ...

I'll give Devibiss a call tomorrow and see what they say.
 
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aznxstazy

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hughfree

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Fayetteville, GA
As stated earlier....I am making a similar change to my compressor. I initially thought that the hex bushing was welded into the *********. I decided to try a bigger wrench with a cheater bar. The bushing took a little persuading but it finally broke loose. The piece on the left has the same description as the original part on the right. They are both 2" hex bushings (one is 1/2" and the other is 3/4"). I purchased mine from Grainger.
D2B8612E-6C65-45F6-B2B3-5C323CAD4C3E-292-000000E594D4822A.jpg
 
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Graham08

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Dec 10, 2007
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Iron Station, NC
but when it arrived at the store, I compared the cut up bushing and the hex bushing, both were completely DIFFERENT thread pitch.
.

Which would make sense if you ordered exactly the item you linked to on the Fastenal site. The Fastenal part is a 2-1/2" NPT bushing, which actually measures 2-7/8" and is 8 TPI. Based on the dimensions you gave us, I think the original is 2" NPT, which would be 11 1/2 TPI. Big difference.

Ain't pipe size standards great? :lol_hitti
 
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aznxstazy

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Which would make sense if you ordered exactly the item you linked to on the Fastenal site. The Fastenal part is a 2-1/2" NPT bushing, which actually measures 2-7/8" and is 8 TPI. Based on the dimensions you gave us, I think the original is 2" NPT, which would be 11 1/2 TPI. Big difference.

Ain't pipe size standards great? :lol_hitti

ya, I just looked it up and you're correct. Didn't even notice there could have been a difference. Thought they were all the same thread pitch... dumb me.

Gonna call fastenal tomorrow to order the 2" and hopefully that will be the correct one.

Thanks guys, and thank you huhfree for the picture.
 

shamrock12

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South Dakota
Those are NPTs. If you had read the entire thread, you would have saw that those typical compressor tank bungs are not the NPT style.
 
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JoeFin

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Sep 13, 2013
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NorCal - where the Rednecks Race
There are a bunch of guys on here with lathes that would cut this in a few minutes. You would have to go down to your hardware store and buy a "Thread Pitch Gage" and be absolutely positive about your thread pitch before asking them to do it.

I would but I just finished moving all my machines into the new addition and I haven't set them up properly yet. Monday I'll leaving for 2 weeks of fishing in Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho. 2 more weeks after that my shop will be set up and running again

If you can wait that long, I'll do it for the left over stock if you buy a 2 1/2"x24" Hex Bar of Brass.
 

eakilroy4

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Dec 13, 2014
Messages
2
Hello,
you posted....
and I am wondering if this is the case, is the ****** extractor set ONLY to remove broken steel fittings?
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-pipe-******-extractor-set-93822.html?hftref=cj

I am really hoping this is not the case. I have a 60 gallon standing tank from ingersoll rand. I was just installing an automatic drain valve tonight when it overtightened the cheap brass T at the bottom bung where the drain valve is and the male brass part of the T broke off in the bung. I briefly tried a screw extractor to remove but this did not work. It is bolted down to the ground and heavy so I would like to try to remove this in place which means I have about 5 to 6" of work room under the tank. I plan on getting the ****** extractor set and trying this. Also, I will get a high quality T or a steel T so this does not happen again. Please give me any advice you may have.


" Default Re: Help! Can't remove compressor air tank bushing fitting
Trying to extract a brass fitting from a steel fitting with an EZ-out will end

up actually expanding the brass fitting tighter to the steel fitting. So putting

more torque on the brass is actually making it bigger in the hole, thus more

resistant to removal, requiring more torque, which means more enlargement

and so it goes. Best way to remove a broken pipe ****** is to use sucessfully

larger drill bits, until the female threads are just visable, then carefully "unwind"

the male thread remanents with a hammer and pick punch. Been doing it that

way for years, works (almost) every time... Sometimes the process needs the

magic words spoken over the project to ease the pain.

Uncle Bob "
 

Miss_Sissy

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Nov 13, 2014
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Virginia
I had the same problem with a Sears 60 gallon tank I got off of Craigslist. I struggled with torches, a big plumber's wrench, a big breaker bar, strapping the tank down to keep it from rotating. I finally gave up on removing the damaged fitting. I drilled out the fitting, tapped it for the next size up NPT, and went from there.
 
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Fixnair

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Jan 5, 2013
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Location
Sapulpa OK
Have done this many times on air receivers. Use an aceteline/ Oxygen torch yo heat the plug red hot. The plug only. While it is dull red douse the plug with water till cool. It should almost come out by hand although you should need a wrench to turn it.
 

eakilroy4

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Dec 13, 2014
Messages
2
Okay, I got the ez out by using an Irwin extractor. First I heated up the area, probably both the female and male since I put on pipe dope sealer. Then after 2 minutes of heating up the area, I used the extractor and it instantly came out.
*** I ordered a kit of extractors on ebay from china and their threads were much finer and shorter, so it only tightened up the piece that was stuck instead of extracting. The Irwin brand threads as you can see in the picture are much longer and actually turn the broken piece out.
 

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gatorgrabber

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Oct 16, 2011
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Gainesville, FL
In addition to the "heat it up with a torch" method, add a bit of candle wax to the mix. Get the stuck object good and hot, then 'solder' (melt) a candle into the interface between the two parts. The melted wax will wick down into the gap, usually making the part much easier to unscrew. An old mechanic told me about the trick and it works great! :beer:
 
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