Help Choosing the right lift

[Jeepwx03]

Well the floor was poured so now I know the height to my joists.

Back of garage: 12'9 17/32"
Middle of garage: 12'7 23/32"
Front of garage: 12' 6 9/32"

That's a 3.25" difference from front to back which is 20'8 29/32"

The issues I now face is the garage is 7" shorter than agreed to, a battle I will need to fight, but doubt I will get the 7" back, maybe some compensation in money.

Also I was told the concrete would be 6" thick, I asked the guys pouring the concrete and they said 4". After I mentioned I was told 6" they said it did go on thick so it might be 4.5" or 5". Regardless another battle I am going to fight. At a minimum I might have them cut the floor and make it thinker where the posts will go.

The next hurtle is I was going to put it in the middle back, but the laminate beam supporting the master bedroom will shift the post to far over and the lift will be off center and awkward to use. So I'm thinking of putting it on the outside bay, is there any issues with this on any of the lifts with the post being on the outer edge of the garage floor?

 

[lakeroadster]

The issues I now face is the garage is 7" shorter than agreed to, a battle I will need to fight, but doubt I will get the 7" back, maybe some compensation in money.

Also I was told the concrete would be 6" thick, I asked the guys pouring the concrete and they said 4". After I mentioned I was told 6" they said it did go on thick so it might be 4.5" or 5". Regardless another battle I am going to fight. At a minimum I might have them cut the floor and make it thinker where the posts will go.

When you say shorter... do you mean ceiling height? Have you reviewed construction drawings?

If you do end up cutting the concrete for a new pad in the lift area have them install the new slab per these specifications: http://mohawklifts.com/library/manuals/Slab_Require_Recommend_11_07.pdf

I have found the only way possible to avoid these issues is to be on-site and inspect on a step by step basis to ensure project is following specifications. Caveat Emptor

The next hurtle is I was going to put it in the middle back, but the laminate beam supporting the master bedroom will shift the post to far over and the lift will be off center and awkward to use. So I'm thinking of putting it on the outside bay, is there any issues with this on any of the lifts with the post being on the outer edge of the garage floor?

Check out the "What are the Concrete Requirements for Rotary Lifts?" in the link below, it has edge distances....

http://www.rotarylift.com/Support/FAQ/

 

[Jeepwx03]

If I am reading that correctly I would need to be 4.5" fromt the edge of the pad, which would put me into the door opening causing the drive thru opening not to be aligned with the garage door.

I'm starting to think I need to go back to the middle door and get a lift with the bump to drive over.

 

[slidehammer]

If I am reading that correctly I would need to be 4.5" fromt the edge of the pad, which would put me into the door opening causing the drive thru opening not to be aligned with the garage door.

I'm starting to think I need to go back to the middle door and get a lift with the bump to drive over.

Another approach, given your situation, would be to put your 4-post in the far bay and flush-mount a scissor lift in the middle bay.

Unlike a 2-post, the scissor lift has no columns to divide up the central open space of your garage. You can also use it to load/unload heavy items from your pickup, as well as a work surface for projects.

 

[Jeepwx03]

Well after doing some measurements I think i will need to go with a baseplate 2 post. The beam supporting our master bedroom above the middle bay would be right where the post would sit. I have 11' of clearance under the beam and anything on the lift will clear the beam allowing me to go much higher. I really wanted a clear floor lift, but it would need to be installed closer to the door into the house which is where more pedestrian traffic would be.

I'm thinking the Bendpak XPR-9 or the Atlas BP10000, any other suggestions?

 

[sublimate]

If you can do a clear floor you should.
Not only is the bump a pain (for pulling cars in, as well as rolling around carts, tools, oil drains, transmission jacks, stools, etc, etc, etc), but they're also not as strong as a top bar lift.

To clear the beam how much do you have to move the lift over? You're not going to notice if its a few inches off center. You can also get a lift with a different width to miss the beam too.

 

[Jeepwx03]

I would have to move it about 8 inches and than it would be blocking some of the last bay. My OCD would go crazy if it isn't centered.

 

[Jeepwx03]

I just realized the Bendpak XPR-9 and the Atlas BP10000 are not ALI certified, but the Dannmar 9000X is.

Any reason why the other two wouldn't be?

 

[brownbagg]

only thing i dont like about bendpak, they dont sell parts, they sell whole components, so if you bust an o ring, its whole new cylinder, burn up a motor, its motor and pump. I have had terrible service from bend pak. But the lift itself not bad just the people on the other end of the phone.

 

[ghlkal]

You can read for - literally - years on lifts, what to buy?, which one to buy. In the end you will be more confused than when you started!!. I was in the same boat but pulled the chute on a Bendpak ...

^This

I also have a Bendpak and it has worked flawlessly for 8 years lifting everything from my Vette to a 1/2 ton truck.

I chose the Bendpak because at the time there was an awesome Bendpak rep who frequented GJ. He answered all my questions and then some

Whichever lift you choose, it will be the best investment you'll make in that new garage.

 

[lakeroadster]

I just realized the Bendpak XPR-9 and the Atlas BP10000 are not ALI certified, but the Dannmar 9000X is.

Any reason why the other two wouldn't be?

BendPak XPR-9D is ALI certified...http://www.autolift.org/ali-directo...ductbrand=11438&rateload=&searchsubmit=Search

Any reason you aren't looking at Rotary Lifts?

 

[Jeepwx03]

BendPak XPR-9D is ALI certified...http://www.autolift.org/ali-directo...ductbrand=11438&rateload=&searchsubmit=Search

Any reason you aren't looking at Rotary Lifts?

The 9D is too tall. The only rotary I saw with a floor plate was a revolution and it was narrow.

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[Pwrgeek]

Well after doing some measurements I think i will need to go with a baseplate 2 post. The beam supporting our master bedroom above the middle bay would be right where the post would sit. I have 11' of clearance under the beam and anything on the lift will clear the beam allowing me to go much higher. I really wanted a clear floor lift, but it would need to be installed closer to the door into the house which is where more pedestrian traffic would be.

I'm thinking the Bendpak XPR-9 or the Atlas BP10000, any other suggestions?

Another option is the Mohawk. There are no cables from side to side and you can have them run the hydraulic lines above (or through) the joists.


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[Jeepwx03]

Another option is the Mohawk. There are no cables from side to side and you can have them run the hydraulic lines above (or through) the joists.


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Would love that if I could afford it.

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[Jeepwx03]

Bump.

Anyone have any input on these three lifts?

Bendpak XPR-9
Atlas BP10000
Dannmar 9000X

 

[rburke65]

So we have narrowed it down to these three?

 

[Scud67]

I have the Atlas BP9000 and love it.

 

[maverick3316]

I have a Atlas 9KOH from GSE. I've had it about 4 years now and the only problem was a bad capacitor on the motor, which was less than $50. I'd buy it again for sure.

I too have this lift. Bought it at the store in Atlanta. Good people. All of my research concluded it was a good deal for a brand new lift. I have yet to install it, because I don't know where I am going to put it yet.....

 

[Jeepwx03]

So we have narrowed it down to these three?

I believe so. They seem to be the most affordable in the floor plate models I could find. I would love a Mohawk, but cannot afford it. The clear floor lifts are not an option because of the configuration of the garage.

 

[sanddan]

Another plus for Rotary, it had the lowest pad height I found which I needed as 2 of my vehicles are lowered. No fun having to jack up the car before you can put it on the lift.

 

[Pwrgeek]

Another plus for Rotary, it had the lowest pad height I found which I needed as 2 of my vehicles are lowered. No fun having to jack up the car before you can put it on the lift.

Had this problem with getting a buddies 350Z on my lift. Solution I came up with is four pieces of 2X12 laid out on the floor. Gives an extra 1"1/2 which was plenty more than we needed.

 

[Diesel Dan]

As Kevin54 stated I'm on my second worth lift.
First was a floor plate model due to headroom issues like yours. Second is a clear floor model with extra width. Kevin lift is now in its 4th garage. The Worth units I bought, IMO, are built heavy like the older lifts were.
They might be more than a rotary, bend pack etc but are also heavier and still made in the US.

The only thing I wish I had was 3 stage arms. Both my lifts would, and did, handle several diesel pickups without issue.