Help Cutting Train Track!

[R6 Racer]

Yes Train Track!
I have come upon 2, 4' pieces of train track. Picking them up on Wed. next week. I am hoping to use some of it for the base of a grinder stand.
Has anyone ever tried to cut this stuff? What's the best way to go about it? I have an A.O. cutting torch, a electric sawzall & a big (7") angle grinder. What should I use? I have never cut anything even close to this heavy & am looking for pointers. Or am i making a big deal out of nothing?
Help please!

Thanks
Steve

P.S. This is for looking at my post.
Miss Canada!

 

[06 RMK 900]

Yes Train Track!
I have come upon 2, 4' pieces of train track. Picking them up on Wed. next week. I am hoping to use some of it for the base of a grinder stand.
Has anyone ever tried to cut this stuff? What's the best way to go about it? I have an A.O. cutting torch, a electric sawzall & a big (7") angle grinder. What should I use? I have never cut anything even close to this heavy & am looking for pointers. Or am i making a big deal out of nothing?
Help please!

Thanks
Steve

P.S. This is for looking at my post.
Miss Canada!

In high school I made and anvil out of a train track and we used a torch to cut it.

 

[blue dog]

Find a machine or fab shop that has a horitontal band saw, will go through it like butter.

 

[msnow]

bandsaw or torch, depending on how decent you are with a torch

 

[Okie Pete]

Score the top of the rail with a chisel , place a 4x4 block under the rail behind where it was scored , hold one end down and whack the other end with a big hammer . The rail should brake at the scored mark .

 

[welderwink]

First off: holy *********...
Second off: Torch it and just take it slow preheat the bottom side and you should have no problem.

 

[blue dog]

Score the top of the rail with a chisel , place a 4x4 block under the rail behind where it was scored , hold one end down and whack the other end with a big hammer . The rail should brake at the scored mark .

if you can do tis with a hammer you are one strong mo fo.

 

[Brad54]

I had a piece of railroad rail that was 3 feet long, and took it to an old machinist to have him do it on his horizontal band saw.
His first words were "I can do it, but you'll have to buy me about a dozen blades."

The top surface of railroad rail is work pretty work hardened.

I believe when the rail road people cut it, they're using big abrasive wheel saws.

I've often wondered if it would make a difference if you flipped it upside down or mounted it in the saw upside down at a 45-degree angle and cut through the work-hardened area from the back side, and angled so you were cutting through the edge of the work-hardened area, rather than along its length.

I've got a 1-foot length of railroad rail I use as an anvil--it's fantastic. VERY heavy, very solid. Stripped the rust off the sides with a knotted wire cup on a 4.5-inch rt. angle grinder, and painted the sides red. Burnished the top of the rail with the wire cup, and it's never rusted again, even living in humid Floriduh for 7 years, and Georgia for 7 years.

1 foot long has proven to be the perfect size.
-Brad

 

[tylerae40]

if you can do tis with a hammer you are one strong mo fo.

yer- only works with the old cheap cast rails used for a decade or so. the other ones are high tensile and you'll need an oxy or a few cutting disks on a grinder. i'd use a grinder but it you have axcess to a heay duty band saw use that- straighest and cleanest cut. goodluck with it mate

 

[danski0224]

Sorry, distracted.

What was the question again?

 

[cheap bastard]

A horizontal saw will still need a good blade as train track is tough stuff. I have used a torch with good results.
By the way, I had no clue as to the quality of camel podiatry health in Canada. Good stuff.

 

[kf4zht]

I had to cut a bunch of pieces for a project. Picked up a 6-7" cutting tip. I was able to cut them resonably easy. It was easiest to lay the rail on its side and start at the top. Going nice and slow ensure a decent quailty cut

 

[sammm]

By the way, I had no clue as to the quality of camel podiatry health in Canada. Good stuff.

PS
Great user name! My autocross 'sponsor' is Team Cheap *******. I'm the president and founder.

 

[Elkiebob]

That Miss Cameltoe, um, I mean Miss Canada is something to look at. wow.

 

[TheGrooveking]

That is not *********, let's put this into proper perspective. She is from Canada, that is moose knuckle my friends, moose knuckle.

TheGrooveking

 

[caper]

Ummm...Up here Moose Knuckle is reserved for describing the male bulge in a Speedo not female.

 

[mrb]

i would say this is a good time to buy a thermal lance

 

[toymn6366]

i have about 6 peices of rail that i cut with a bandsaw on same blade and its brand new rail the company i work for has a rail siding and i know the railroad maint. crew well they give it to me going to make anvils out of it.

 

[danski0224]

That is not *********, let's put this into proper perspective. She is from Canada, that is moose knuckle my friends, moose knuckle.

TheGrooveking

I have a mooseknuckle picture... sure you want me to post it?

It can't be unseen...

 

[Stuey]

In addition to what the others here said, another option is to find a Jedi - a light saber should go through that rail track like butter.

 

[nate379]

When my brother and I where young my Dad made us cut a piece he had with a hacksaw.

We got it done. I think used almost every blade he had.

Hmm... now that I think of it.... DAMN YOU Dad!

 

[TAftw]

I'd say torch if you've got one, but if you can find a guy with one of those abrasive buzzsaws that'd probably be best.

 

[R6 Racer]

WOW, thanks for all the help!

tylerae40 Can you tell me how to tell the old cast verses the newer high tensile stuff ?

kf4zht Sorry for my ignorance, whats a 6 / 7" tip?
I have had the same cutting tip for 35 years, used it on everything.

danski0224 NO! mooseknuckle picture!

toymn6366 I might make up a couple of those anvils to sell & recoup some of my costs, any idea what there worth?

Stuey Sorry don't know any.

If all goes as planed & I pick it up on Wed. I will post a couple pics of what I have then. If not I will post them as soon as I get it home.

Thanks guys!
Steve

 

[NUTTSGT]

See if your local fire dept has a Partner saw or similar saw with an abrasive wheel. Ask them if they would cut it for you, they can use it as practice.

 

[Photo]

I have a cheap horizontal/vertical bandsaw and easily cut through a piece of rail I picked up from my FIL.

It only took a few minutes to cut and leaves a nice, straight cut unlike a torch would.

Lane

 

[Hiball]

There are many different types of rail all based on the Application, Main Line rail is heavier than Industry rail etc.. Its all based on how heavy the rail is per 3ft. I think 140-150lb is the Mainline standard for Class 1's. We used to have a member here who works in the Trackdepartment (trackwelder) Without a doubt he could answer the question. Im just the dumby Engineer who rides on it.

 

[Rory Bellows]

I cut mine with my HF 4x6 bandsaw. It took some time but it cut perfectly straight and clean.

 

[arkangel06]

Come on just torch it.

 

[Professur]

I have a mooseknuckle picture... sure you want me to post it?

It can't be unseen...

I do believe that if you post that photo, I would have to lead a movement to have you perma-banned.

 

[caper]

That's a great Canadian Beaver!

 

[TAftw]

You could also use thermite .

 

[reinhardt]

just bite it. the rail, not the moose knuckle. a porta-band would be another option if u can get ur hands on one. hf sells one for $90, isnt there a Canadian equivalent?

 

[R6 Racer]

I'm thinking this might be the time to pick up one of these...

Think it will do the job?

 

[reinhardt]

I'm thinking this might be the time to pick up one of these...

Think it will do the job?

definately. we use them at work for cutting metal. i have cut 1/2 plate w/ one no problem. they cut stainlesss pretty well too. it just takes a little finesse to cut a nice straight line w/ one. once u get the hang of it, it will be ur fav tool. they also make brackets to convert a portaband into a horizontal saw. i love a good portaband, will give a much nicer cut than a torch. might take a little time tho...

ben

 

[wcglover]

There are many different types of rail all based on the Application, Main Line rail is heavier than Industry rail etc.. Its all based on how heavy the rail is per 3ft. I think 140-150lb is the Mainline standard for Class 1's. We used to have a member here who works in the Trackdepartment (trackwelder) Without a doubt he could answer the question. Im just the dumby Engineer who rides on it.

Rail is determined by weight per foot. I work for CNRail and we run high speed passenger and heavy freight (class 1) thru the rockies on 136lb rail. I have never seen 150lb rail but im a mechanic who doesnt pay much attention to rail so there could be. I cut rail with a torch with a number 3 type 101 cutting tip (rated 2" i believe) with ease but its not a very smooth cut. Some one follows up behind be and cuts its with a gas powered abbrasive saw with special "rail cut" cutting disks. I dont know about Ontario but here in BC we use "FHH" full head hardend and Ontario is prob the same which means the head or top will be hard to cut. I wouldnt try it with a grinder but a band saw with a good blade and lots of lube might work. Torch works awsome but it will only be as clean as your hand can cut.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Rail is determined by weight per foot. I work for CNRail and we run high speed passenger and heavy freight (class 1) thru the rockies on 136lb rail. I have never seen 150lb rail but im a mechanic who doesnt pay much attention to rail so there could be. I cut rail with a torch with a number 3 type 101 cutting tip (rated 2" i believe) with ease but its not a very smooth cut. Some one follows up behind be and cuts its with a gas powered abbrasive saw with special "rail cut" cutting disks. I dont know about Ontario but here in BC we use "FHH" full head hardend and Ontario is prob the same which means the head or top will be hard to cut. I wouldnt try it with a grinder but a band saw with a good blade and lots of lube might work. Torch works awsome but it will only be as clean as your hand can cut.

Rail weights are by the yard just like Hiball said. I don't screw around with trains very much but I have detailed a LOT of heavy crane rail that uses (at times) the same rail as the railroads use and some that are quite a bit heavier. There are several different profiles for crane rails, light/ASCE rail, DIN, JIS, UIC and others with weights to over 300 pounds per yard.

Still light by structural standards but heavy when you try to pick up a foot of it.

 

[wcglover]

I stand corrected, i asked the track maintainers today and it is measured by the yard. GeorgiaHybrid and Hiball are both correct. Be sure to post pics of your finished anvil, i've been contemplating the idea of building one myself.

 

[rockchucker]

I would say go rent a metal Cut-Off Saw or a Gas Powered version. Never cut Rail before but that is what I would try at least. This is what I use in my Garage and I can't see it taking more than one Blade if that...

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...D25X-_-100634624&locStoreNum=4702&marketID=44


You might have to cut it laying on it's side or make 2 passes or both though.

 

[e-tek]

I do believe a couple posts are missing....or is it just me?

 

[beelsr]

nope, posts are missing. I thought i posted about using a stihl cutoff saw (put the right blade on those saws and they'll cut through anything, my 410 is awesome and it's the smallest one they make)...

but then somebody got sand in their ****** and said husky was better and so.....

it is better that the posts are getting deleted and not the whole threads. THAT ***** bigtime.

I do believe a couple posts are missing....or is it just me?