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Help deciding: grind vs etch, with pics

craigdt

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Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
20
Im preparing to do a polyura/aspartic or epoxy coating in my 400 sq ft garage.

The concrete floor is from 1959 :cautious:

I'd love to just acid etch, but don't want to botch the prep.

I did the "tape some plastic down and check for moisture" test, and it came back dry, so I guess I don't need a moisture sealing primer.

Next is to determine if I have to grind or can just acid etc.

I poured water in several places, and it didn't seep in. It just sorta... sat there. Beaded up. Was that way when I checked 15 minutes later.

Does that mean that I have to grind the concrete for a proper bond?

Thanks!

Edit: everything you can imagine has been on the floor. Oil, paint, salt (midwest winters), etc.

Here's some pics:

20230502_104935.jpg
20230510_113603.jpg

Really close-up of the water after a minute or two:
20230510_113557.jpg
 
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Chris_Hamilton

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Dec 2, 2012
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Logical thing would be to prep per the instructions of the coating manufacturer. First step would be to thoroughly clean the floor with a good degreaser or detergent. Probably would need to do that more than once seeing that your floor is 64 years old.
 
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craigdt

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Jan 24, 2009
Messages
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Logical thing would be to prep per the instructions of the coating manufacturer. First step would be to thoroughly clean the floor with a good degreaser or detergent. Probably would need to do that more than once seeing that your floor is 64 years old.
Thank you! You think Krud Kutter would be effective? Or, what is a good decreaser in your view?
 
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craigdt

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Jan 24, 2009
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...Epoxy is a lot more forgiving as a primer than polyurea so I would make sure epoxy is the primer. Then use a high end flake kit like this: https://www.garageflooringllc.com/product/pro-series-full-broadcast-epoxy-system-awf-pro/#!
When you say its more forgiving, what are you meaning?
Surface doesn't have to be as perfect? Easier to work with?

Also- you linked to a full broadcast system- was that specifically to help cover issues below?
Or more for personal/visual preference?

Thanks!
 
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FJ4FUN

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Jul 28, 2014
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NorCal
Thanks for the link!
I saw an earlier post from you with the silver gray and the blue/gray/black flake that was beautiful!
It looks like a really solid system. Hoping its easy for a complete newbie... Im nervous about screwing it up.

Am I wrong in thinking I should prep and fill cracks before grinding?
The color combo you are referring to is our Silver Gray GY1D with Orbit H25A DecoFlakes and is, by far, one of the most popular color selections. Wolverine Coatings products are all legit "industrial strength", the only difference between what we typically supply to the DIY residential community and, say, the BMW auto plant in S. Carolina, is in the overall specified coating thickness / quantity.

Application of these systems is very straight forward, the prep (grinding) is the most "difficult" part as it can be somewhat demanding physically but even that has more to do with the actual transport of the cumbersome rental equipment and.... emptying your garage! We are more than happy to address any question that you may have at anytime during your project, we won't let you "screw it up" :thumbup:

Filling small cracks, like the ones in your pix, can be prepped and filled after grinding prior to coating using our IntegraFlex 1921 flexible joint filler. For larger cracks/gaps (3/8"+) such as troweled expansion joints we recommend filling after coating when using IntegraFlex or prior to grinding if using an epoxy mortar such as our TrowelEase 1162.
 

Andy Smith Jr.

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Nov 6, 2020
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Houston, TX
When you say its more forgiving, what are you meaning?
Surface doesn't have to be as perfect? Easier to work with?

Also- you linked to a full broadcast system- was that specifically to help cover issues below?
Or more for personal/visual preference?

Thanks!

Yes, the epoxy adheres better to concrete so if prep isn't perfect epoxy sticks better. Also depending on type of epoxy, it has longer working time then most polyurea basecoats. That system i linked is just for visual but gives you an idea of a higher end system. Thanks
 
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craigdt

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Jan 24, 2009
Messages
20
Yes, the epoxy adheres better to concrete so if prep isn't perfect epoxy sticks better. Also depending on type of epoxy, it has longer working time then most polyurea basecoats. That system i linked is just for visual but gives you an idea of a higher end system. Thanks
Thank you very much- thats helpful to hear. An epoxy sounds right up my alley
 

P0234

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Aug 6, 2012
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NoVA
Grinding is less work and better results. No way I'd etch an old floor.
 
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