That composite decking is nice, and also extremely expensive. not worth it imo.
help design a bridge
- Thread starter pixelmonkey
- Start date
That composite decking is nice, and also extremely expensive. not worth it imo.
OP
pixelmonkey
Well-known member
approval is in the gray!
some paperwork needed, and some legal clarification to come, but should have the "you can, but not because we said so" papers friday afternoon.
bridge design will use 5/4" CCA treated decking boards. *thanks for the tip 1320stang. should save a good bit of weight and around $60*
going 8' wide with the earlier totals of 2x10 supports and 4x4 vertical post. the top two bolts per vertical 4x4 to support the rails. the top bolt will be an eye bolt, so when it comes time to move, if ever, anchor points will be present to connect a strap and winch.
checked the supplies at the local hardware and want everyone's thoughts... zinc plated screws or ??????
see some pictures
chris<pixelmonkey>
2" screws will be used for the floor = 550 screws to hold the floor boards in place.
3" screws to hold the top rail and supports in place. thinking around 150 screws needed.
7"x 3/4" bolts, nuts and metal plates for the vertical 4x4 = 8 bolts bottom, 8 eye bolts top. *will be better described with photos
some paperwork needed, and some legal clarification to come, but should have the "you can, but not because we said so" papers friday afternoon.
bridge design will use 5/4" CCA treated decking boards. *thanks for the tip 1320stang. should save a good bit of weight and around $60*
going 8' wide with the earlier totals of 2x10 supports and 4x4 vertical post. the top two bolts per vertical 4x4 to support the rails. the top bolt will be an eye bolt, so when it comes time to move, if ever, anchor points will be present to connect a strap and winch.
checked the supplies at the local hardware and want everyone's thoughts... zinc plated screws or ??????
see some pictures
chris<pixelmonkey>
2" screws will be used for the floor = 550 screws to hold the floor boards in place.
3" screws to hold the top rail and supports in place. thinking around 150 screws needed.
7"x 3/4" bolts, nuts and metal plates for the vertical 4x4 = 8 bolts bottom, 8 eye bolts top. *will be better described with photos
Attachments
OP
pixelmonkey
Well-known member
helped a friend build his deck in missouri and he used it for the floor... nice, but i think it's too expensive for my needs.
*lived in Edmond for 6 months. didnt like having to drive so much! didnt like the way people drove either. was good times on a supermoto though!*
chris<pixelmonkey>
OP
pixelmonkey
Well-known member
finalized design *most cost efficent*
link to the Google Sketchup file on the 3dwarehouse!
click me!!!
thanks for your help and giving me some well out of proportion ideas!
chris<pixelmonkey>
link to the Google Sketchup file on the 3dwarehouse!
click me!!!
thanks for your help and giving me some well out of proportion ideas!
chris<pixelmonkey>
OP
pixelmonkey
Well-known member
approval was given thursday, July 2nd. !!!
wow... only had to wait 6 weeks for approval.
will begin building this saturday July 11
will take photos of the whole process
chris<pixelmonkey>
wow... only had to wait 6 weeks for approval.
will begin building this saturday July 11
will take photos of the whole process
chris<pixelmonkey>
OP
pixelmonkey
Well-known member
MORE PHOTOS!
click to view the latest from Tuesday evening!
I snapped a few photos before cutting more boards and adding a few more screws. I might have it finished before Wednesdays sunset!
chris<pixelmonkey>
click to view the latest from Tuesday evening!
I snapped a few photos before cutting more boards and adding a few more screws. I might have it finished before Wednesdays sunset!
chris<pixelmonkey>
buening
Well-known member
Looks good to me! Are you planning on putting any close spaced spindles on the railing? Doesn't really matter on private property, but it wouldn't pass code if it were on public property. Don't forget to seal the wood to prevent it from weathering/rotting in the future.
Also, how many stringers did you use? Did you tie them together throughout the span? If not, be careful leaning on that railing, as it will cause the stringers to possibly tip. Also watch those two bolts holding the railing to the stringers. I hope you have a steel plate backing to prevent the bolts from pulling out. Standard washers won't help due to the large moment (torque) at those bolts due to the tall railing.
Also, how many stringers did you use? Did you tie them together throughout the span? If not, be careful leaning on that railing, as it will cause the stringers to possibly tip. Also watch those two bolts holding the railing to the stringers. I hope you have a steel plate backing to prevent the bolts from pulling out. Standard washers won't help due to the large moment (torque) at those bolts due to the tall railing.
rieferman
Well-known member
How is this mobile or moveable? (that was the key requirement right?)
OP
pixelmonkey
Well-known member
more photos to come that show some of the final cuts...
sealing with a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits.
have plates coming. the current washers should get it by until next week when the plates are installed.
the eye bolts on each side are present for using a cable or strap to connect to. the moveable part is the ability to hook to the front bucket on a large backhoe and slide it into the yard. doubt it ever happens, but the design has worked for the approval from the city. i'm thinking at most, in it's life time, it will need to me moved 2 or 3 times.
chris<pixelmonkey>
OP
pixelmonkey
Well-known member
photos from today!
http://s98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/pixelmonkey380/07-16-2009/?albumview=slideshow
opted out of using chain link. the wife says the post look better, and it makes the rail a bit stronger.
chirs<pixelmonkey>
http://s98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/pixelmonkey380/07-16-2009/?albumview=slideshow
opted out of using chain link. the wife says the post look better, and it makes the rail a bit stronger.
chirs<pixelmonkey>
autoist
MEMBER EMERITUS
I can see the dogs love the extra space...but what about driving a lawnmower up onto it?
OP
pixelmonkey
Well-known member
have a honda push mower. the yard isnt large enough to need a riding mower.
next weekend i have plans to tar the end caps and bring dirt in to level the yard off just shy of the height of the bridge walkway. i have a few low places in the "back" yard that need some dirt anyway. photos will be posted.
chris<pixelmonkey>
jacob
Member
Ah! Capable of being moved! I guess I was a little slow on the up-take I too, was thinking something that was to be moved after each use.
Fine looking bridge. Good work.
I too, was thinking something that was to be moved after each use.Fine looking bridge. Good work.
Last edited:
durbancic
Active member
I have a question. It appears as if each side of the bridge (because I'm not sure what side the eye hooks are on) has the metal fence poles right at the end of the bridge. Wouldn't those impede the progress of sliding the bridge into the yard?
Very nice bridge though.
-Dan
Very nice bridge though.
-Dan
OP
pixelmonkey
Well-known member
I have a question. It appears as if each side of the bridge (because I'm not sure what side the eye hooks are on) has the metal fence poles right at the end of the bridge. Wouldn't those impede the progress of sliding the bridge into the yard?
Very nice bridge though.
-Dan
good eye!
i have the end post set in concrete, but made sure they could spin when the concrete was set. moving will require me to remove 4 bolts from the end post next to the bridge, remove the top rail and then pull the chain link back; giving an extra 5' width for the bridge to fit.
chris<pixelmonkey>