Help fab a tool

[nonhog]

I hate buying stuff when I can make it for twice as much
I have a couple old Volvo's with the ol Studebaker style rear ends Dana 30 ?
Anyway to pull the drums you need a puller. They're available but I'm in no hurry. And I got a hub from an MR2 that has the same bolt pattern.
I drove out the studs but am wondering if its worth it to fab due to the additional inch or so needed to thread a nut and then of course a threaded plate to runb a bolt through. Hope I'm being clear ? Questionable !

Do I drill/mill out center to fit over spline's or cut out flat part (flange) of hub then weld a pipe to it with a cap thick enough to thread(or a bolt)

How would you do it ?

 

[nonhog]

Here is what I need to end up with. Anybody in the Tacoma area have a machine shop I can borrow ?

 

[lilredex]

I would machine out those splines and weld a nut on the end of that hub, extend it with a piece of pipe if you need additional depth. Use the largest fine threaded rod (that will fit) that you can find. Should do the trick.

Those tapered axles can be a PITA. Not having a puller or facilities to make one, as a kid used to put the nut on backwards, put tire on and lift opposite side. Helper holds a ball pein hammer on nut, you hit hammer with your biggest BFH. Blow, drives the axle out of that drum, problem free if you are lucky.

Finally got rid of that problem when I graduated to a '66 Plymouth.

 

[nonhog]

Those tapered axles can be a PITA. Not having a puller or facilities to make one, as a kid used to put the nut on backwards, put tire on and lift opposite side. Helper holds a ball pein hammer on nut, you hit hammer with your biggest BFH. Blow, drives the axle out of that drum, problem free if you are lucky.

Interesting idea, may try that. Its just a parts car.

Finally got rid of that problem when I graduated to a '66 Plymouth.

66 Fury ! I sure miss mine.

 

[Fudge]

Boy this doesn't make me miss my 64 Belvedere. Those are a PITA

 

[nonhog]

Well I tried the jack the car/hammer idea and no go. Might not have had the other side high enough to load it enough.

I think I'll cut the outer portion off the hub then weld a small length of tubing
on it. adding a cap and threading it. Easiest thing I can think of.
w/o buying a tool.

 

[maxipouce]

I would do that; keep the flat drilled part, weld a nut inside the end of the pipe, and then weld the pipe to the drilled disc.

Use 2 nuts put on the same bolt and that also fit closely in each end of the pipe so that the welded nut will be coaxial with the pipe.
The game is to find a matching pipe-nut couple.

 

[nonhog]

Well with the help of my abrasive disc and my sawzall I have a pretty flat
center section but still need to open up the hole diameter.
Thinking hole saws are more meant for sheetmetal and wouldn't hold up to
something like this.
Thoughts ?

 

[APEowner]

I use hole saws in steel all the time. You won't be able to do it with a hand held drill (unless you're allot stronger and more patient that I am) but with the part clamped securely in a drill press you you can go through steel that's as thick as the hole saw is deep. Slow speed, lots of pressure and lots of lube (you can use transmission oil). You'll want ear protection and the cutting lube will smoke and stink but if you can cut it with a sawsall you can run a hole saw through it.

 

[nonhog]

I use hole saws in steel all the time. You won't be able to do it with a hand held drill (unless you're allot stronger and more patient that I am) but with the part clamped securely in a drill press you you can go through steel that's as thick as the hole saw is deep. Slow speed, lots of pressure and lots of lube (you can use transmission oil). You'll want ear protection and the cutting lube will smoke and stink but if you can cut it with a sawsall you can run a hole saw through it.

Good point ! I'll set something up in the drill press. pics to follow.

 

[red92s]

I've got a 1967 122s with the same rear end (Dana 27). I think the Dana 30 (which has stronger, non-tapered axles) showed up with disk brakes in the 1970's on the Volvo 1800E and 1800ES.

I ended up buying a puller (have not used it yet) but seriously considered making my own at one point. The forcing screw on the one I bought is freaking massive. Probably over an inch in diameter.

I was planning on using a threaded bung used for making rock crawler suspension links. Then just finding a properly sized bolt. At the time I had the machine shop capabilites to make the "disc" that grabs the lugs. Something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-4-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


Here are a couple more home built ones I have saves

 

[nonhog]

red92s nice Amazon !
Interesting bottle jack puller.

I got a bit further tonight, the drill press worked fine even with me mickey mousing it.
Next, grinding off the zinc from the washer then adding a nut and bolt and welding it all up. Bought a 7" section of black ****** which I hope to weld to the newly modded hub.

Ideas/input welcome

 

[nonhog]

Re: Welding up fab tool

Next, grinding off the zinc from the washer then adding a nut and bolt and welding it all up. Bought a 7" section of black ****** which I hope to weld to the newly modded hub.

Been out of town, ready to jump back in. any thoughts on the welding of the black ****** and the hub ? Just wondering if I should have concern's ?

 

[johnnynogood]

[/QUOTE]

That's funny, this weekend I fabbed the same tool design from some scrap at school to pull the rear drums from my 64 Dodge. And after the use of a 6-ton bottle jack, torch, and drilling out the woodruff key...

The tool failed! My next option is to carefully cut the drums off the hub itself and mount them independently. Tapered axles are not fun!

Helped to reinstate my confidence in my welds, though.

 

[nonhog]

It worked !

On the 2nd try 1st try the weld gave holding the nut. Took more time on the next nut as well as adding a nut to the inside for insurance.
I should have not been lazy and got grade 8 bolts but I thought I'd try what I had and keep a close eye on it. It worked fine.
Might have about $10.00 buck invested.
Found a spring on the rear shoes broke allowing the shoes to move enough to lock up. So I'll get a spring so I can move the thing w/o digging a rut.

Here's pics.

 

[nonhog]

Not sure why the pics didn't show. Try again.

 

[nonhog]

Proof pics

Now to find a spring

 

[lupinsea]

Hm. Cool project but I think I would have rented a slide-hammer puller from the auto parts store for $6 and had the axle shafts out the same day.

But it's much cooler to fab up your own tools. Props for tackling that.

 

[larry_g]

Re: Proof pics

Now to find a spring

Have you checked with the local NAPA for a small parts kit?

lg
no neat sig line

 

[nonhog]

Hm. Cool project but I think I would have rented a slide-hammer puller from the auto parts store for $6 and had the axle shafts out the same day.

But it's much cooler to fab up your own tools. Props for tackling that.

I thought that also till I read it don't work so well, broken drums ?

Have you checked with the local NAPA for a small parts kit?

lg
no neat sig line

Yep, nuthing I found something at work that should work well enough.

Thanks for all the reply's