Help? Fix roller marks - Corotech HP5000

[T123456]

Have some roller marks from a second coat of clear coat I did in some spots (touchups, well, tried too!) with a difference in the amount of silica I put in the 2nd coat, which seems to make the visual difference, especially as I got to the end of the tray. Can I just apply another full clear coat within the 72 hours, or do I have to sand down where the marks are first?

 

[T123456]

Have some roller marks from a second coat of clear coat I did in some spots (touchups, well, tried too!) with a difference in the amount of silica I put in the 2nd coat, which seems to make the visual difference, especially as I got to the end of the tray. Can I just apply another full clear coat within the 72 hours, or do I have to sand down where the marks are first?

 

[Kaizen]

Think i'd sand the ridges as visually they will show through clear coat even if they are fully covered. I threw antiskid silica on top after i rolled out the clearcoat not mixed in.

 

[T123456]

Think i'd sand the ridges as visually they will show through clear coat even if they are fully covered. I threw antiskid silica on top after i rolled out the clearcoat not mixed in.

This anti skid is fine enough that it stays suspended once mixed in, but I mixed in double the recommended when I was going over the area that gets the most foot traffic not realizing. There doesn’t appear to be rigid, the visual difference appears to be the amount of silica

 

[Armorpoxy]

Varying amounts of nonskid can absolutely affect sheen.

We would suggest sanding the entire floor with a sanding screed to get some attempt at uniformity and then recoating with your topcoat, and using a nonskid like our Armorgrip which is very light and stays reasonably suspended for a long time (good idea to give the topcoat a swirl each time before pouring out to re-suspend it though just to make sure it's even).

 

[T123456]

Varying amounts of nonskid can absolutely affect sheen.

We would suggest sanding the entire floor with a sanding screed to get some attempt at uniformity and then recoating with your topcoat, and using a nonskid like our Armorgrip which is very light and stays reasonably suspended for a long time (good idea to give the topcoat a swirl each time before pouring out to re-suspend it though just to make sure it's even).

Thanks for the reply. I did another coat of clear coat over the whole area with the same amount of shark grip in it and it came out good, can’t see a difference in sheen anymore

 

[Armorpoxy]

Great!! Glad you got it worked out to your satisfaction.