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Help how to use a fluke clamp meter

buildmyown

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Picked up a box of misc tools this weekend and in the box was a Fluke 334 clamp meter. Was going to list it here for sale if it works I have no use for it but wanted to make sure it works first. I thought it would be pretty self explanatory put on the right setting put clamp around wire get reading. Ive tried a few different time now and cant get a reading. Are these onlt for high voltage or should it pick up 120? Any help would be great, thanks.
 
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metaldad

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yes, it will read amps on 120V. be sure the clamp is completely closed, and there is a current draw on the conductor you are testing.
 

simplec6

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Remember only one side of the circuit, not both wires inside the clamp... Also, i'll buy it!
 
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buildmyown

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Just to make sure im doing this right the dial is on the A i placed it around the cord going to my desk lamp which is on I should get a reading correct or does it have to be a higher draw.
 

metaldad

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you've put a cord thru the jaws. both conductors, it will not read that. you need to seperate the leads, which, , i will not suggest to you to do that.
do you have any electrical experience?
 

0.511MeV

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A 100 watt light bulb should be plenty to see the draw. Make sure you only put it around one of the conductors (either hot or neutral, NOT both) going to the lamp.
 

JimDon

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Amprobe makes a wonderful splitter that you plug any device into, then plug the splitter into a receptacle. Then you can clamp each wire individually. Works great with any clamp meter. With a couple pieces of wire and a plug and a female you can make your own.
Cheers, JimDon
 
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buildmyown

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Alright I got it now and see were i was going wrong. I have some basic electrical know how doen basic wiring and so on ive used regular multimeters and test lights just never one of these. The only thing i can think of that would be easy to test would be the feed coming into my house right to the panel any words of caution befor i go down stairs to try that, or can someone maybe give an idea of a safer way.
 

0.511MeV

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That makes me a little nervous. The feed coming into your house can and will kill you if you mess up.

I'd suggest getting an outlet splitter like was suggested, and plug a lamp into that. Safest way to test.
 
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buildmyown

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I have an extension cord with the end cut off to test different things just wired up a little light real quick and got a reading of .02.

Yeah i know a cut off extension cord isnt the safest way to do things but its short and for bench use only. So ill give myself 100 flogings for that to save you guys the trouble.
 

franzdom

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I don't think you are doing it right yet, and why do I have the feeling this could end really badly?

You have to measure only one of the 2 wires, with current running through it. Measuring both of them they cancel each other out.
 
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buildmyown

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No the last time i had the 3 wires in the cord seperated hot neutral ground wired up a simple light socket that had i think a 40 or 60 watt bulb in it. Pluged the cord in and put the clamp only around the hot lead.
 

JimDon

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OK, since I've got a little better understanding of your electrical
knowledge -- If you have a light duty ext. cord made out of lamp cord, UNPLUG it, take a sharp utility knife, and separate the two wires. Voila, a splitter like I told you you could make. Now plug your 2-pronged electric drill in it, attach your clamp meter, pull the trigger and you should get variable readings on your meter. That will tell you if it is working properly. If you go to the Fluke website, can you download an instruction manual? Just a thought. I know that is how I got a new sheet for my Amprobe. If you can, please stay away from measuring the service entrance feed unless you are extremely knowledgeable and comfortable in that area. I know I will sleep better tonight if you stay away from it.
Cheers,
JimDon
 
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buildmyown

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Ill stay away from the main service feed. I have probally just enough electrical know how to be dangerous thats why id rather ask first then get shocked or killed. Im comfortable around 110-120. Anything above that i tend to stay away. I tried the fluke site and didnt see anything but ill take another look.

Alos like your idea about that cord and give it a try when i have a little more time.
 

metaldad

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amprobe line splitter:
ELS2A-2T.jpg

fluke clamp jaw ammeter demo and videos:
http://www.fluke.com/fluke/usen/training/demos/default.htm
 
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Greatbear

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Make your clamp-on ammeter more useful. Make one of these:

testcord.jpg


This is a 2' section of 12ga 3-conductor cord with a plug and socket attached, and a 6" section of the jacket and filler cord removed to expose the individual conductors. Plug this in the wall, plug the device you want to measure the current draw into the other end. You can make a bunch of different measurements:

For simple current draw, clamp the meter around the black (hot) wire. The current drawn will show on the meter. If the current is small and near the lower limit of the ammeter, coil the wire. For each turn, divide the reading by the number of turns for the reading. If you loop the wire three times, divide the reading by 3 for the actual value. Only coil the single conductor for this test.

For a DC imbalance test, connect as above but switch the meter to read amps DC instead. This is useful for switching supplies, speed controls and dioded lamps and the like. Sometimes a device will draw a small indicated AC current, but the device is rectifying the voltage and using only one half of the AC wave. Good for troubleshooting.

Ground fault test: Clamp the meter around the hot and neutral only (black and white here). If you read a significant (non-zero) value, move the meter to the green conductor. If you read the same value, a portion of the load is being diverted through the grounding conductor. This is a big safety issue. Good for finding insulation faults in motors.

Set the meter for inrush or peak to find the maximum current drawn by the device. While a motor might only draw 4 amps while running, don't be surprised to find ten times that value when it is starting. Use the test configuration for basic measurements. Useful for finding out why the appliance is tripping breakers intermittently. Not all clamp meters have this function.
 

Steinmetz

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Picked up a box of misc tools this weekend and in the box was a Fluke 334 clamp meter. Was going to list it here for sale if it works I have no use for it but wanted to make sure it works first. I thought it would be pretty self explanatory put on the right setting put clamp around wire get reading. Ive tried a few different time now and cant get a reading. Are these onlt for high voltage or should it pick up 120? Any help would be great, thanks.

Only one conductor in the clamp at a time. You can also wrap the conductor around the clamp to read low currents by dividing the current read from the meter by the number of turns.
 

hifi_hokie

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Hook it round the negative battery cable of your car (on the DC setting) and switch some loads on.

Probably a bit safer before you start playing with AC :)

Given the choice between AC and DC, I'd rather get bitten with AC :bounce:

That "clamping" tendency is DC is unnerving...
 

richfinn

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Wrong. An inductive current probe will not work with DC.

Really, mine does. For your information inductive AC/DC current clamps are widely used by automotive techs for all sorts of diagnostic type work.

This is my AC/DC clamp meter.

http://www.ueitest.com/products/clamp-meter/dl49

same thing in use by someone else



ps. calling out someone as "wrong" is unadvisable on this forum if your not sure what the f*ck your talking about :thumbup:
 
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Steinmetz

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Really, mine does. For your information inductive AC/DC current clamps are widely used by automotive techs for all sorts of diagnostic type work.

This is my AC/DC clamp meter.

http://www.ueitest.com/products/clamp-meter/dl49

same thing in use by someone else



ps. calling out someone as "wrong" is unadvisable on this forum if your not sure what the f*ck your talking about :thumbup:

The Fluke 334 is an inductive (AC transformer) device only. Not a Hall Effect sensor. Please try to keep up with the rest of the class.
 

richfinn

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The Fluke 334 is an inductive (AC transformer) device only. Not a Hall Effect sensor. Please try to keep up with the rest of the class.

I dont use a Fluke 334, I just told you I use a UEI DL49 which measures both AC/DC.

You mentioned Inductive not me.

I wouldn,t attend one of your classes, you can,t read :thumbup:
 
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