That one is going to be hard to ID since it doesn't have any of the positive ID features you want to look for....an oval or hourglass depression on the base, serial numbers on the feet, raised lettering, stampings, etc.
The shape looks a lot like many Fishers and Vulcans, but without markings it's hard to tell. They also sold anvils without their normal markings, so that's a possibility. Some were factory seconds that didn't get stamped, some were made for big companies that wanted to sell under their own name, etc.
It could be any number of brands, but it doesn't matter too much in the end. Get the face clean, drop a 1" ball bearing all around the face and look for how high it bounces and listen to the sound it makes. Drop (don't throw) the bearing from 10" to get a feel for how high it returns.
A damaged anvil, or an anvil shaped object (ASO) will have the ball only bounce back an inch or two. Even a worn, old, dimpled anvil will give you 4-5" of rebound. It's also possible to find an anvil with good rebound in some places, and no rebound in others...that means the weld is failing/failed between the top plate and body at that spot, which will likely only get worse with use.
Wrought iron anvils will have a high pitched ring, and cast iron anvils will tool steel faces will have a much quieter "ping" sound, but both will have significant rebound.
There are also cast iron anvils without a tool steel face...those are really ASOs, and cast steel anvils, but they aren't quite as common.
The edges of the face look decent, and there doesn't appear to be any major damage, so if it has good rebound anything under $3/lb is a pretty good deal these days. For something unmarked like that I'd try to get it for closer to $2/lb.