To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Help identify this compressor please

T

Tom Foolery

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
31
Location
Long Beach, CA
Hi gang!
I have just acquired this compressor (rescued from a field) and not sure what it is or where to get replacement parts, I need to get it wired up and get the regulator that goes on the top of the motor and see what happens.

Any comments and assistance, is sincerely appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
20131216_142634-M.jpg

20131209_111438-M.jpg

20131209_112045-M.jpg

Plate on the Tank:
20131209_111913-M.jpg

Plate on outside of Cylinder:
20131209_111950-M.jpg

Plate on the motor:
20131209_111756-M.jpg

What's left of the faded image on the exterior of the tank:
20131209_153640-M.jpg

Side shot of the image on the tank:
20131209_153720-M.jpg
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

Tom Foolery

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
31
Location
Long Beach, CA
Zrexxer said:
Saylor Beall.
Click to expand...
DAMN YOUR GOOD!...What was it 7 Minutes?!!!
I just did not know where to start and now that I have a name...I am on my way to getting her up and back in service. THANK YOU Zrexxer!
(Disclaimer: Image below kipped from Google search):
8fc9c3a5-5abe-4b1f-8e2d-da23abd1ec37_zps5a23cc60.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
T

Tom Foolery

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
31
Location
Long Beach, CA
Sooooo, NOW that I have a name for my Compressor (thanks to Zrexxer:beer:)
I have been able to perform a search on this amazing forum and I found a thread with this from "Carla"

"Re: Saylor Beall compressor??
I'll agree with those who say the Saylor-Beall 703 and 705 pumps are excellent equipment.

I've had occasion to rebuild a number of them, one time and another. They are very simple, and easy to work on, with one exception. Removing the threaded 'plug' or 'retainer' part for some of the valves requires making up a special tool (an easy tool to make), and may require securing the head to some 'immovable object' like a mill table, and using a lot of leverage to break those retainers loose.....this varies, actually, some are easy, some surprisingly difficult, requiring a lot of torque to break them loose.

Everything else about a Saylor-Beall rebuild is innately obvious, and dead easy.

Its my personal opinion that its prudent to 'de-rate' a pump by running it at or just above its minimum rated speed.....400, if I remember correctly, to minimise loading on the bearings and minimise heat in operation. Thats a trade-off of cfm for longevity.

Changing out the oil in a pump, every six months or so, and using best quality compressor oil is important. I've seen too many compressor heads and valve cages choked solidly with carbon from using common 'motor oil'.

I have one 705 here which I got for free, as a 'box of parts', rebuilt it in 1989 to use with a glass-blast cabinet, and didn't have it down again until just this year, for 'preventive maintenence' rings and rod inserts. After over twenty years running, the inserts did show some wear, but the rod journals on the crank were 'as new'.

Considering that the S-B is 'splash-oiled', instead of having pressure oiling like the Quincy pumps, I'd say thats a pretty good service record. (according to the S-B web-site, they now offer pressure-oiled pumps, also)

cheers

Carla"

ANY Suggestions for what to do after I find and install a regulator for the motor and get it ready to energize (Correct plug and new wiring) after I replace the oil in the motor.... anything else anyone suggests I should do before "exercising it" :dunno:
I just don't want to start "rebuilding" unless it needs it, although, if suggested I do so then I'm willing to.
Thanks in advance
 
H

HotrodHR

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 22, 2009
Messages
445
Location
North Alabama
Attempt to turn the crankshaft before you waste your time and money on the motor. You could go to the expense to have it pressure tested...

Are you planning on using this for your shop compressor or just trying to resurrect it as a conversation piece or yard art?
:dunno:
 
Z

Zrexxer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
5,058
Location
Pflugerville, TX
6768rogues said:
I am impressed with your knowledge.
Click to expand...
'Twarnt nothin, really... :p

To start with, Saylor Beall is one of my favorite compressor brands, so it didn't take too much to recognize the pump. But having the outline of the logo still visible on the tank made it a slam dunk.
 
OP
T

Tom Foolery

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
31
Location
Long Beach, CA
Burgerkong said:
Make sure that tank is still solid and isn't rusted through. Looks like it has been sitting outside for quite a while. Is there water in the tank?
Click to expand...

I "tapped" on the tank.. ALL over, emphasis on the bottom (where water would have collected) if it hadn't been drained.
Luckily no surprises! All sound
It was in Fontana California where it sat outside (HOT, Windy and DRY...most of the time)
 
OP
T

Tom Foolery

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
31
Location
Long Beach, CA
....
HotrodHR said:
Attempt to turn the crankshaft before you waste your time and money on the motor. I can turn the motor over with ease (by rotating the Flywheel by hand) and I can hear no abnormal noises when doing so. You could go to the expense to have it pressure tested...I'd rather not. I'd rather just see if it fills when I run it and holds air....

Are you planning on using this for your shop compressor or just trying to resurrect it as a conversation piece or yard art?Planning it it being my primary shop compressor
:dunno:
Click to expand...
 
OP
T

Tom Foolery

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
31
Location
Long Beach, CA
Zeke said:
Hey Tom, let me know when you plan on powering that beast up so I'll know why my lights go dim. ;):D
Click to expand...
Hey Ya Zeke!!! Come on over! :beer:
Hell!!
You can have a Cold Beer in one hand and a camera in the other and you can film the whole thing going up in flames! (with a beer buzz even)
:dunno:
 
M

metal4130

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
225
What a beauty! I wouldn't paint it or anything just clean the dirt out of the air filter and get it running.
 
OP
T

Tom Foolery

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
31
Location
Long Beach, CA
metal4130 said:
What a beauty! I wouldn't paint it or anything just clean the dirt out of the air filter and get it running.
Click to expand...
THAT is exactly what I was going to attempt....
  • Fresh Compressor OIL
  • Correct Electrical
  • New Capacitor on top of the Doerr Motor
  • Clean/Replace Air Filter
and put her to work! :thumbup:
Let's just hope that there is no hidden problems.....
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
C

C96

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
1,251
Hi Tom, good find. Saylor Beall is a great compressor.

Before firing her up, you might also want to consider servicing the valves. Its a very simple procedure.
Being that its been sitting out in a field exposed to the elements, good chance they could be seized.
Good luck, I’m sure your going to have fun with it. It will be a really good project.

Keep us up to date with your progress.
 
OP
T

Tom Foolery

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
31
Location
Long Beach, CA
C96 said:
Hi Tom, good find. Saylor Beall is a great compressor.

Before firing her up, you might also want to consider servicing the valves. Its a very simple procedure.
Being that its been sitting out in a field exposed to the elements, good chance they could be seized.
Good luck, I’m sure your going to have fun with it. It will be a really good project.

Keep us up to date with your progress.
Click to expand...
Great suggestion, that sounds like something that should be done given the unknown history and neglect! Thanks!!
 
Last edited:
Z

Zrexxer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
5,058
Location
Pflugerville, TX
Tom Foolery said:
BTW, can anyone identify how many Gallons the tank is by looking at the identifier tag I attached earlier?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
No. It's 60 or 80 gallons, usually 80, although it's hard to tell from the weird perspective on the photos you posted.

I don't have any experience in a code shop, so some of this is guesswork, but I interpret the tag to read:

HSB - possibly Hartford Steam Boiler company, National Board certified to apply an ASME "U" stamp, symbolic of the ASME Pressure Vessel code

HD = .182 - thickness of the end bells in inches
SH = .187 - thickness of the tank walls in inches
1961 - year made/tested
WP - Working Pressure, 200 psi
Tem - temperature the tank was rated at

I don't know what "BW" or "HD ELL" mean.
 
OP
T

Tom Foolery

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
31
Location
Long Beach, CA
Zrexxer said:
No. It's 60 or 80 gallons, usually 80, although it's hard to tell from the weird perspective on the photos you posted.

I don't have any experience in a code shop, so some of this is guesswork, but I interpret the tag to read:

HSB - possibly Hartford Steam Boiler company, National Board certified to apply an ASME "U" stamp, symbolic of the ASME Pressure Vessel code

HD = .182 - thickness of the end bells in inches
SH = .187 - thickness of the tank walls in inches
1961 - year made/tested
WP - Working Pressure, 200 psi
Tem - temperature the tank was rated at

I don't know what "BW" or "HD ELL" mean.
Click to expand...

Thanks again Zrexxer, for being the first to respond (and for your response)
Great information!
What can I do to help identify if it is a 60 or an 80.
(Not that it really matters but I'm just curious)
  • Measurement of circumference?
  • Height?
 
M

metal4130

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
225
No doubt in my mind this is a 60 gallon tank and model 703 pump. If you took a picture of the compressor head I could confirm the pump model for sure. The 703 has 4 valves and the 705 has 5 valves. I believe I can read 703 on the pump tag from your pictures.
 
M

mechx

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2013
Messages
13
"HD = .182 - thickness of the end bells in inches
SH = .187 - thickness of the tank walls in inches

I have an old compresser and the HD is 1862 , SH 1420. what does this mean?
I know it's very thick, from 1951
 
M

mmouse

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2010
Messages
92
Measure the circumference and length. There are volume calculators online if you don't remember the math. Pi r 2.

I have found that 60 g tanks have a circumference of 63"' and length is 49".

80 g have circumference of 63" and 64" length.
 
T

Trey T

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Messages
3,749
Location
Houston, TX
^I think you got the numbers mixed up. The circumference value should be the difference. 80gal typically looks fatter.
 
M

mmouse

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2010
Messages
92
I guess i had an oddball. My horizontal tanks are the sizes I stated above.

That would make your 80 gallon tank 39" long/tall.

OP, to get your approximate tank size, measure the circumference and divide by 3.14. That is your diameter. Then enter length and diameter in inches into this calculator and push the inches button..
http://www.1728.org/verttank.htm
 
Last edited:
OP
T

Tom Foolery

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
31
Location
Long Beach, CA
20131209_111756-M.jpg


SO I took my Doerr Motor down to the local Electric Motor Repair shop and tried to get them to see if they could order a Capacitor for it,
(Mine was missing when I took possession of the Compressor)

UNFORTUNATELY we don't know the [URL="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farad]Micro Ferrets[/URL] and the only way for a person to put the correct one on is to just "try" different capacitors until the motor works correctly. (As per Granger) :wtf:
(They have a terrific help line by the way, they get you on the line with a "tech" who is incredibly knowledgeable and helpful.)

Any Comments or Suggestions? :headscrat

If I have to buy a new motor I will, its NOT the end of the world I am just trying to do what's right for this O'l girl.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom