Help identify this pipe fitting

[shamrock12]

This is a 2" x 1/2" hex bushing fitting that came off my Champion compressor. The material is iron but I do not know how to tell if it is cast or malleable. There is "250" stamped on it which I believe is Class 250 "extra heavy duty." There also is a stamped triangle symbol but I do not know the manufacturer of this one, do you?

I am having a difficult time locating one in size 2" x 3/4". It need to have hex head on the outside (larger than the OD) so that way an o-ring can be installed and sealed against the cylindrical wall. I stopped at a couple plumbing supplyhouses but they have just the one with hex on the inside (smaller than OD) and only in Class 150.

If anyone could tell me the manufacturer of this fitting, then it may help make it easier to locate the one in the size I am looking for. Thanks!

 

[Kny21]

why not just drill and tap that to 3/4"?

 

[Sneeze357]

Or just use a standard steel reducer fitting and some thread tape.

 

[Spareparts]

Look for a Hydraulic reducer bushing, what is the "O-ring" for. An "O-ring" fitting has straight thread and seals by the "O-ring".

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Those are called o-ring boss fittings and the o-ring side of the fitting is sized by SAE standards. I *think* the SAE equivalent for 2" pipe is somewhere around -32 size, so what you're looking for would be labeled "-32 SAE ORB male x 3/4" nptf".

Tommy

 

[shamrock12]

Thanks everyone for contributing. Now it make sense to me because once I cranked the fitting loose, it just felt "too easy" unthreading from the compressor tank. I was expecting the resistance to gradually decrease like a taper pipe fitting.

Another thing, can anyone tell me if the fitting I have is cast iron or malleable iron? How do I tell?

 

[Ron Lombardo]

Malleable fittings only come class 150 and 300 Cast Iron fittings come class 125 250

So i would guess its Cast Iron class 250

Any bushing would work .. and can be picked up at any plumbing supply.

 

[shamrock12]

why not just drill and tap that to 3/4"?

Cast iron is usually not machinable. Even if it is, I'd need to buy an odd sized fractional silver & deming drill bit plus a tap which would probably buy me a few of that exact fitting I need.

 

[tcianci]

Cast iron is usually not machinable. Even if it is, I'd need to buy an odd sized fractional silver & deming drill bit plus a tap which would probably buy me a few of that exact fitting I need.

If cast iron is not machinable, how do you figure they got the threads on the thing in the first place.

Some common examples of machining cast iron:

automotive cylinder walls, brake drums and rotors, drilling and tapping cast iron gas burners for water heaters and boilers, and the list goes on...

 

[GYPSY400]

Those are called o-ring boss fittings and the o-ring side of the fitting is sized by SAE standards. I *think* the SAE equivalent for 2" pipe is somewhere around -32 size, so what you're looking for would be labeled "-32 SAE ORB male x 3/4" nptf".

Tommy

Winner winner chicken dinner.. that is a size 32 orb .. available at a hydraulic supplier, not a plumbing shop.. you could probably just get the oring if you need to. . Orb orings have their own sizes, therefore standard orings dont fit.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

[shamrock12]

I just snapped a side picture of the fitting with the o-ring removed. I measured the major diameter of threads near the hex head and it came at approximately 2.33 inches. There is a very slight taper in threads but not noticeable to the naked eyes. I could free-spin this fitting onto the compressor tank fitting until it is nearly seated down.

 

[Bobhdus]

You can drill tap that fitting, the inside hole would be for a petcock valve to drain any condensation. You could always contact the compressor MFG for extra plug. These are usually fairly cheap. Spark test for cast iron will have small amount of spark that's not very bright. The malleable will resemble standard mild steel with a spark test.

 

[Brad Beam]

It is a double tap bushing. Some places may call it a tank bung bushing.

 

[shamrock12]

Thanks everyone. To my surprise, it is indeed a hydraulic pipe fitting, even though it is stamped "250". After doing some searching on ORB fitting, it is becoming apparent to me that this fitting has been modified by the supplier or at Champion plant. I see Parker P50N is a very similar design to mine except that it is an end plug.

I guess the only realistic choice would be to machine it after all? My concern is I never have tapped or even drilled a cast iron before. I did say that cast iron is USUALLY not machinable because I heard they are difficult to do so.

 

[shamrock12]

It is a double tap bushing. Some places may call it a tank bung bushing.

Brad - I know which fitting you are talking about as I was looking at that same thing while searching, but I can assure you this definitely is not a double tap tank bushing.

 

[Bobhdus]

It's easy to drill/tap. It doesn't really create a chip when tapping, just granular metal. No fluid required when drilling, doesn't hurt to use fluid when tapping. If you use pipe tap, make sure you don't tap too deep. You want a good seal without the fitting bottoming out...

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Pay a machine shop to chuck it up and bore it out and tap it.

Charles

 

[OccupantRJ]

Thanks everyone. To my surprise, it is indeed a hydraulic pipe fitting, even though it is stamped "250". After doing some searching on ORB fitting, it is becoming apparent to me that this fitting has been modified by the supplier or at Champion plant. I see Parker P50N is a very similar design to mine except that it is an end plug.

I guess the only realistic choice would be to machine it after all? My concern is I never have tapped or even drilled a cast iron before. I did say that cast iron is USUALLY not machinable because I heard they are difficult to do so.

Job should take about 5 to 10 minutes to drill and tap, if the drill and tap are on hand. Drilling can be a little grabby, but taps about as easy as it gets. Tap depth has to be controlled so the threads will not be too large.

 

[Zrexxer]

Cast iron is usually not machinable.

That's a good one! Cast iron is so full of graphite, it machines like BUTTER. But like Tianci said, don't let your cast iron engine block know that!

 

[shamrock12]

Yeah, my understanding is that cast iron is brittle and thus is easier to break, which is why I made that statement. I thought the thread would be likely to break off while tapping, but I am not a machinist by trade.

 

[Bobhdus]

Think of it like this, all cast iron pipe fittings are machined/threaded after they're cast or forged. In my early 20's, I worked in an engine machine shop, machining Cylinder heads. All parts were cast iron or aluminum. Cast iron machines really well, and as mentioned is for the most part self lubricating while being machined. Fluid would only be used to flush the granular "chips" put of the way. It's also best to clean up the cast iron debri as it's very abrasive on machined surfaces...

 

[sberry]

Here is another option,,, don't do anything, use a 1/2 full ported valve off of this and call it a day. Silly me, I use it the way the company built it.

 

[sberry]

I got 3/4 mains but the jump for 2 ft out of the comp is all 1/2, doesn't mean a pinch of ****.

Everyone figure the engineer that designed this was a dum azz and left it up a bunch of backyard genius types that don't even know the name of the part to need to search out and change a carefully calculated component??????

 

[sberry]

The right answer to this question in the first place isn't how to tap cast iron but to ask the question,,, do you even need to do this? Its highly unlikely, there could be special circumstances and the question is vague and less than detailed so all the rest is a guess but doubt its the case here,,, could be wrong too

 

[hippie2cams]

I didn't realize how few people noticed the ,WARNING DO NOT REMOVE that was stamped on the first picture when enlarged. Why would someone want to avoid any type of warning like that. It was probably a one use only fitting. Now you done it.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I didn't realize how few people noticed the ,WARNING DO NOT REMOVE that was stamped on the first picture when enlarged. Why would someone want to avoid any type of warning like that. It was probably a one use only fitting. Now you done it.

It says "Do Not Remove Under Pressure". Most, if not all ORB's have that stamping.

Tommy

 

[shamrock12]

I didn't realize how few people noticed the ,WARNING DO NOT REMOVE that was stamped on the first picture when enlarged. Why would someone want to avoid any type of warning like that. It was probably a one use only fitting. Now you done it.

Sheesh ... it says "WARNING - DO NOT REMOVE UNDER PRESSURE"

 

[sberry]

Contrary to some belief here I am a believer in codes. We got some, maybe most guys here smarter than I am but where they learned to do this "work" is beyond me sometimes. They gonna outsmart and "upgrade" every piece of pre enginnered equipment invented. Gonna "service" it to last a lifetime. Gonna go up 2 code sizes and still panic.
Cut every hose in half, actually use upgrades as a trouble shoot method,, it worked for 40 yrs on a 16,,, it must all of a sudden develop a need for a 12. This tells me about all I need to know about how a guy learned trouble shooting. I don't know anything about it and can say that aint whats wrong with it.

Same for this air piping ********. A guy wastes 100's of dollars he hasn't got on **** he don't need and we give him atta boy for not having a clue and not learning anything along the way including on how to sort thru consulting,,, here and otherwise.

My licensed master plumber, plumed steel, steam all his life has 1/2 air pipe in his garage, could have any pipe they invented for free, got the 1/2 he put in decades ago with about 3 places to get on it.

 

[shamrock12]

The right answer to this question in the first place isn't how to tap cast iron but to ask the question,,, do you even need to do this? Its highly unlikely, there could be special circumstances and the question is vague and less than detailed so all the rest is a guess but doubt its the case here,,, could be wrong too

Oh really? Maybe I already have the plan figured out and did not want to bore you guys with all the details (long reading material) that doesn't really matter and just gone right straight to questions I may have about how to execute my plan.

How about just being helpful by making posts that would be helpful to what I wish to do instead of lecturing or harassing me about what I should have done?

 

[sberry]

This hi pressure comp should have a service valve and be piped to a filter regulator, 3/4 is ok, long runs over 100 ft in a truck or full body shop its needed, but you will take the wind out of that puppy real fast thru that hole and thru a 3/8 hose on a body tool and feeds any 1/2 air gun. Only a pound loss on the main at 100 ft if that and only a few 10/ths gain going to a 3/4, with air ranging from 130 to 175 no way a human could know the difference.

 

[sberry]

Oh really? Maybe I already have the plan figured out and did not want to bore you guys with all the details (long reading material) that doesn't really matter and just gone right straight to questions I may have about how to execute my plan.

How about just being helpful by making posts that would be helpful to what I wish to do instead of lecturing or harassing me about what I should have done?

This is my point. I didn't mean to insult you but the question is so amateur I got to wonder,,, why,,, this is helpful.
This might not be the help you want.
You didn't bore up with details and this want directed at you but the rest of the gang for not asking.

 

[sberry]

Oh really? Maybe I already have the plan figured out and did not want to bore you guys with all the details (long reading material) that doesn't really matter and just gone right straight to questions I may have about how to execute my plan.

I can understand that logic but when the plan starts to deviate from standard I am curious as to why and there is a lot of the gang in the wings here to pull out a slide rule or a mill and machine tools if it comes to that.
I am curious as to why in working with compressed air for decades havnt needed to do this?

 

[sberry]

How about just being helpful by making posts that would be helpful to what I wish to do instead of lecturing or harassing me about what I should have done?

Back to at hand,,, doesnt sound like you are done yet, might consider backtracking and putting a 1/2 valve in and investing in a reducing coupling to 3/4 and could be done in a few minutes.

 

[Ryan]

Hey fellas. Wanna lose your accounts? Keep calling each other names over air lines.