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Help...Issues with Contractor and New Garage

kenscr5

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Hey all!

I am in the process of having a new garage built and am having issues with my builder and the work, and need some advice.

I purchased my first home on the Northwest side of Chicago last year, got married, and am now preparing for kids. It’s a typical bungalow style single family home on a 125ftx30ft lot with an old 22x18 (396sqft) 2 car garage. This past summer I decided that I wanted to upgrade to a 3 car garage in order to make room for 3 cars, some storage and cabinets, a workbench, and some additional space for kids stuff. So I did some research, got some estimates, and was able to get a permit for a 22ftx27ft (594sqft) 3 car garage. The max for a frame garage is 600sqft so I couldn't go any bigger. Also, since the new garage will be on the property line, the city required steel studs and 2 layers of drywall on each side of the stud in order to make 2 hour fire-rated walls. So after many estimates and much research, I signed a contract with a contractor on Sept 21.

Demo and Concrete - The demo and concrete was scheduled for Sept 28, and after several rescheduled dates it finally began on Oct 12 (2 weeks later). The garage was demo'd in 1 day, and then the concrete laid the following 2 days. The next day I went to check out the results and found my yard to be a mess with debris from the demo, and concrete that had spilled over onto my landscaping. I also found some issues with the concrete...the concrete seeped under the framing and the excess needs to be cut, a couple of leaves had been finished into the concrete causing it to not dry properly leaving holes, the finish on the concrete was rough in some spots where they brushed and also where the hand troweled.

Build day 1 - The build was scheduled for Oct 26 (2 weeks later), and after several rescheduled dates again, a crew of 5 guys finally showed up on Nov 2 (1 week later). However, the guys were supposed to be here at 7:00am to meet the load of lumber, but they arrived 2 hours late at 9:00am. And funny thing is they only came to cover the load and said they would return the following day at 7:00am to get started because they had to finish another job first.

Build day 2 - 7:00am rolls around and no sign of the crew until 9:00am again. This time only 2 guys showed up and began to dismantle the load of lumber. Shortly after, they began assembling the steel walls, and after a full day of work the 2 guys assembled 2 walls.

Build day 3 - only 1 guy showed up at 9:00am, and it took him the entire day to assemble the remaining 2 walls. He said that they would return the next day to raise the walls.

Build day 4 – only 3 guys showed up at 8:00am to raise the walls, and the problem with this was that they had already put 2 layers of drywall on the exterior causing the walls to weigh 1,000lbs+ each. So get this, they asked me and my buddy to help them. Luckily I had the day off work and was home painting. We were able to help but I was pissed because they should’ve had more guys. So for the next 2 hours we helped them to raise the walls. Three of the walls went up without a problem, however the 4th and heaviest wall was a nightmare. We stood up the wall and it fell over the edge of the concrete. They then leaned the wall on the neighbors fence and busted once of the posts. Next as we held it, they rigged some 2x4’s underneath to get it back up. And as we then pulled the wall back up, it fell onto the floor bolts and put holes in the steel channel. Then they attempted to raise the wall again, but just jacked-up the channel. So at that point they had no choice but to cut the floor bolts, put the wall into position, and drill new ones. Once that fiasco was over they secured the walls and left.

Build day 5 – they were scheduled to come back the next day, which was a Saturday, but did not show. They were then scheduled to come back Monday, but did not show again. I called the contractor and he said that he had no idea why they weren’t showing up, that the subcontractor was lying to him, and that they probably were working on one of their own jobs. Finally, on Tuesday Nov 8 (4 days later), 5 guys showed up at 8:00am to work. This day they were able to get the roof on, shingles, and 2 sides of the siding.

Electrical – scheduled for Nov 12 and 13.

Build day 6 – ??? (interior drywall, doors, finish siding etc.)

The issues that I am having are…
-The biggest issue is that the contractor said that the job will only take 1 week, however it has been 2 months now and the garage is only 60% done.
-The contractor subcontracted the work and has no control over the guys who are very unprofessional and tell him they are coming here to work but then go on another job.
-I spent 2 hours or more after every single work day cleaning up the site because they left without cleaning or organizing the materials. Materials, dust and nails were all over the concrete and my landscaping. I confronted the contractor and he said that it usually only takes them 2-3 days to build a garage, and they usually clean afterwards. And since my garage was taking longer, they forgot.
-My buddy and I had to help them for 2+ hours to raise the walls.
-The steel channels are all jacked up because of the problems they had raising the walls.
-They did not use a sill seam between the concrete sill and the steel channel.
-The guys somehow put small holes all over the concrete while building the garage, and managed to chip off a chunk of concrete. The contractor said it wasn’t a problem and that he would just seal the concrete and fill in the holes. However, I plan to epoxy the concrete.
-They busted one of the posts on my neighbor’s fence because they leaned the heavy wall on it.
-2 of my neighbors came to me and said they got flat tires from the nails and screws all over the alley.

So ideally, I don’t plan to make the final payment of $2,000 and put the money towards the epoxy.

What do you guys think? Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
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kenscr5

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Here are some pictures of the work...

004.jpg

005.jpg

006-1.jpg

007.jpg

012.jpg

011.jpg
 

OneTon

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Lol definitely not lowest bidder. The new garage cost me $20,000.

Tear it down and start over. Has a building inspector seen that? What are they using for the bottom plate and why bother bolting it down? That's going to rust-out in 1/2 of one Chicago winter...

Where's the sheathing?

Are they framing exterior walls with light gauge metal framing?

They're building a playhouse for your kids, not a garage...right?

That's the shiitiest work I've ever seen (and I live in FL..."ground zero" for shiity work).

Oh...P.S.: Welcome to the forum! :beer:
 
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ddawg16

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Your messing with us...right? This is all a joke?

If not.....time to 'sit down' with the contractor....

I certainly hope you are not giving him any more money....
 

MrMark

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Lol definitely not lowest bidder. The new garage cost me $20,000.

You are lucky. A guy down the alley from me paid 90K for his garage 2 car single story and over a year later and I would say it is about 60 percent done. That's the cheapest garage I ever heard of.
 

MrMark

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that garage door jack stud cracks me up! That's got to be the worst piece of lumber I have ever seen.

The floor is pretty bad.
 
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kenscr5

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This is no joke.

Per City of Chicago Code the garage must be constructed with steel studs and 2 layers of 5/8 drywall on each side of the stud. There is not sheathing and its all stainless steel so no rust.

I called the lumber yard and they said that all the lumber is #2 or better.

The concrete was mint before they started building.

Should I call out an inspector???
 

OneTon

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This is no joke.

Per City of Chicago Code the garage must be constructed with steel studs and 2 layers of 5/8 drywall on each side of the stud. There is not sheathing and its all stainless steel so no rust.

I called the lumber yard and they said that all the lumber is #2 or better.

The concrete was mint before they started building.

Should I call out an inspector???

Those studs are not stainless. Galvanized, yes. Stainless, no. Rust? Definitely. The metal is in direct contact with the concrete. The bottom plate (sill plate?) will start rusting before that job is finished.

Call an inspector and slip him $100 to look the other way. Then get a real contractor in there to finish.
 

MrMark

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did you have this engineered? I don't see any sheathing so no shear wall? I don't see any Hardy frames or Simpson strong walls either? Where's the shear wall? That sheetrock has little shear value. You should have demanded sheathing in any event to give it some strength and to provide some nailing for whatever is going on the outside.

I don't know what you are going to do. The inspector will just bounce a lot of things and then you will still be up the creek with this job. It was too cheap to do a decent job is your problem.

That is not #2 lumber. That stud looks like it was found in a ditch in El Salvador.

Also looks like you are missing the bottom plate. It looks like 2X was supposed to slip inside that metal on the bottom. That tin can bottom can't be all that's required. That would have very little hold down strenght.
 
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Wackerjr

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I would inform the "general" to get his but out there and have a pow wow with the inspector...... he is the guy paying the subs, he does have control over what they do.... he cuts the checks.....

This is why I do my own work.... don't know who to trust anymore....
 

gc11090

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Ya u jot jacked. My 16 year old brother can probably do better work than that. Get the contractor down there ASAP and tell his *** to rip it up then go find someone that has half a clue to start over from scratch. That can seriously be some of the worst quality work I have ever seen. O yes, have a chat with the BBB and post up on angies list about your experiences.
 

OneTon

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Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but...sheetrock on the exterior of a free-standing structure for fire-rating?!? Wouldn't you use something more durable/weather resistent, e.g. Hardie Board?

I think you may have misinterpreted the code...5/8" sheetrock on both sides of the studs would apply to an interior structure, for example an office being built inside a warehouse, or the interior wall of an attached garage where it meets the living space.

:confused:
 

nate379

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I'm not sure what is going on, came you zoom out a bit to show the overall garage?

Are those metal studs exterior?

Drywall on exterior? :wtf::wtf:


Also just wondering how are you going to fit 3 cars in a 22x27 garage?? Mine is 24x26 and it is considering a 2 car garage... and honestly it's more 1 car and room to work.
 

MrMark

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Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but...sheetrock on the exterior of a free-standing structure for fire-rating?!? Wouldn't you use something more durable/weather resistent, e.g. Hardie Board?

I think you may have misinterpreted the code...5/8" sheetrock on both sides of the studs would apply to an interior structure, for example an office being built inside a warehouse, or the interior wall of an attached garage where it meets the living space.

:confused:

International building code (adopted here in CA at least) requires 1 hour fire rating on exterior walls within 3 feet of the property line. Apparently where the OP is the local or state has raised it to 2 hours and lets them build right on the lot line, ie. no setback. To achieve this fire rating here in CA you can stucco OR you can put up exterior grade SHEETROCK (it is yellow) on the outside of the SHEATHING for the firerating. How do I know this? I have seen it done up close and I had to investigate for my own siding project. Now, some would argue that Hardy plank would satisfy the 1 hour fire rating but I have seen no such evidence without combining Hardy with gypsum.

Gypsum on the exterior is a comercial standard that the Intl Building Code is now imposing on residential in minimal setback zoning.

The OP's problem is that he has no sheathing and that sill plate is completely substandard unless to is ungodly strong when it looks like a tin can. The way it is shreaded I think we can safely say it is not ungodly strong.

But seriously, 20K for a complete structure? I would have 20K worth of plumbing and electrical in there alone. Just getting water, gas and electricity out there has got to be 10K alone. Building a structure in a couple days? This is all fantasy land stuff.

I am actually starting to think that this whole thread is a joke being pulled at our expense.
 
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OneTon

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I've seen exterior sheetrock used before, but only in instances of limited weather exposure (soffits, covered ceilings, etc.). The pics of the sheetrock in the OP's post doesn't appear to be exterior grade. Must be some crazy Chicago thing.
 

MrMark

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I've seen exterior sheetrock used before, but only in instances of limited weather exposure (soffits, covered ceilings, etc.). The pics of the sheetrock in the OP's post doesn't appear to be exterior grade. Must be some crazy Chicago thing.

No, it doesn't. Looks regular to me.

It's called Denseshield.

They sell it at Lowes.

We are being juked here, I'm afraid.
 
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jdoering

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I lived in a townhouse with exterior sheetrock on standard wood framing. It was covered with tar paper and vinyl siding over that. I assumed it was a fire thing (WA) for multi-family dwellings or maybe a cost thing, I dunno... I wasn't involved in the construction just dealing with the yellowjackets that ate through it building their nest. I thought it was weird too as I'd never noticed anything like that on normal houses I see going up.
 

OneTon

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I lived in a townhouse with exterior sheetrock on standard wood framing. It was covered with tar paper and vinyl siding over that.

So...with a framing hammer, I could knock a hole in the wall and walk right in? Burglars must have it made.
 

MrMark

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Should be framing, sheathing, densglass gypsum, weather resistive barrier, e.g., Tyvek, siding.

It's a fire thing. They don't want you spreading a fire to your neighbors.
 

jdoering

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Should be framing, sheathing, densglass gypsum, weather resistive barrier, e.g., Tyvek, siding.

It's a fire thing. They don't want you spreading a fire to your neighbors.

I think it mostly followed that except I assume "sheathing" means something solid like plywood or OSB or whatever I usually see going up? Nothing like that; just the gypsum. It might have been a double-layer, I don't recall.

So...with a framing hammer, I could knock a hole in the wall and walk right in? Burglars must have it made.

Breaking the patio sliding glass door would probably be easier so they wouldn't need to squeeze between the studs. Plus peeling the vinyl siding out of the way would be a pain too. The glass would definitely be the easy way in (which I guess is true in most homes that don't have barred windows and such).

But yeah; nothing a motivated hammer couldn't go through between the inside and outside.

Anyway, not to hijack the thread but it seemed similar to the garage this guy is describing.

-Jeff
 

MrMark

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This garage may not be very strong and he may have been able to get away with that in Chicago. All the walls support is the roof. Hence no sheathing. Little to no foundation. There may be shear somewhere that we can't see like a Simpson strong wall. It is always the sign of a cheapo job to skip the plywood.
 
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kenscr5

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Again, this is no joke.

I will get more pictures later today.

I actually had an Architect do the drawings on this because the Contractor was denied a permit the first time. I originally wanted a 24x28 garage and drawings were required by the city because it was over 600sqft.

Attached is some info from the drawings regarding the fire walls
FireWall.png


Also here is a link to some info http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/template/LISEXT/1FRAME/showpage.html?name=BXUV.U430&ccnshorttitle=Fire+Resistance+Ratings+-+ANSI/UL+263&objid=1074589212&cfgid=1073741824&version=versionless&parent_id=107
 

danski0224

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Lol definitely not lowest bidder. The new garage cost me $20,000.

You are being hosed, probably your own doing. Did you look at any prior work done by these people? References?

Lots of builders use subcontractors. Done right, nothing wrong with that. You gotta watch out for the "builder" in an office (or fancy truck) hiring the cheapest 1099 sub guys he can find and passing himself off as a "builder".

I am walling in an 8' x 20' patio adjacent to my garage (under the same roof), adding a 72" double door, 2 small awning windows and using Hardie for siding over Tyvek, and I am in it for almost $5k. Donated labor to boot. No new concrete.

Looks like you have plain old metal interior studs.

No way that "top plate" meets code.

Those bolts will pull right through the flimsy bottom plate. It will rust through, first though.

Doesn't look like you are using Densglas or other suitable exterior gypsum board product.

That wood looks like what Menards tries to pass off as "#2".

Your plans should have had detailed section views showing construction details. Shear walls or bracing.

Demo and a proper "thick edge" monolithic slab should have been around $13k to $15k before anything was bought for the walls/roof.

Good luck.
 
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johnson1975

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I also have had issues with my contractor - he has taken 4 months to build my 30x40 shop that I was told would take 3 weeks. The guys basically stopped showing up becuase he took on other work that paid more ( he said he underbid my job). I have known the guy for almost 20 years.

Anyways - I have turned him into BBB, the state board of Contractors and licensing, plan to provide him with a 1099 at the last minute (paid in cash) and I will be taking him to court. I have advised him I am hiring others to finisgh his work and I will take him to court for teh additional cost above our contract.

I feel your pain - however I can not complain about the work that has been performed - just the time it has taken to get done.
 

danski0224

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This is no joke.

Per City of Chicago Code the garage must be constructed with steel studs and 2 layers of 5/8 drywall on each side of the stud. There is not sheathing and its all stainless steel so no rust.

I called the lumber yard and they said that all the lumber is #2 or better.

The concrete was mint before they started building.

Should I call out an inspector???

I bet the code calls out the gauge of steel studs. Call and check. They probably even call out a fastener schedule.

Then check what you have.

The yellow color coding on the ends of the studs calls out the gauge.

Methods used with steel stud construction and wood stud construction are different. A commercial steel stud framer would be lost in a wood framing job and vice versa. Finding skilled carpenters that know both sides isn't easy.

Got a magnet?

A magnet will not stick to true stainless steel.

There are classifications of stainless stell that are magnetic. Those types of stainless steel normally rust, although not as quickly as plain steel.

Looks like you have plain old galvanized.

Your bottom plate should be treated lumber with a barrier between it and the steel bottom track. The trated lumber will destroy the galvanized metal in direct contact with it.
 

UncleJoe

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Well I have bad news for you. I believe you are more screwed than you think. As you have read from all the previous post just about everything was done wrong or half a$$ed. Your big problem is the contractor, I would be willing to bet he does not have the resources to do this job correctly. He is most likely skating on thin financial ice and when pressed to make it right he will disappear. He probably has no funds to tear it down and start over or even make repairs to what was done.

Taking him to court is a joke. It will cost you time an money and when you win what will you have? This guys probably has no money and his assets probably consist of a rusted out 1993 Chevy pickup truck that burns oil.

I would not pay him any more money for any reason. Good luck with the garage but I fear you are going to take a loss on this whole deal. Your best bet now is to try to minimize your losses.


Keep us posted on this
 

SuperSocket

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Call a proper inspector and have the structure inspected. From the looks of it it would most likely fail, in that case, call an attorney and get the paperwork started. Hopefully you can get some of your money back or have them come and do it right.


I almost get the impression that this was a "under the radar type job" when it came to inspections?
 

OneTon

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I almost get the impression that this was a "under the radar type job" when it came to inspections?

Looks like he pulled a permit. Permit = inspections.

kenscr5 said:
I actually had an Architect do the drawings on this because the Contractor was denied a permit the first time. I originally wanted a 24x28 garage and drawings were required by the city because it was over 600sqft.
 

OneTon

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Eh...I'd say you got $20k worth of work (on a job that should be around $40k). I'm not going to pick it apart further (cough, cough...no joist/rafter hangers...no footings under slab?) as I'm not a contractor, but in my opinion, that's an amateur job and will not stand the test of time.
 
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