help lighting a 50x60x16 shop

[efinley]

So my shop is finally up and it is time to figure out the lighting. The shop is 50x60 with 16' eaves and 2:12 roof pitch. I'm a bit lost when it comes to lighting it though. I'm thinking of a 4 bulb T5 HO fixture that I saw recommended on another thread.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-Light-T5-White-High-Output-Fluorescent-High-Bay-IBC-454-MV/202838871?AID=11210757&PID=6147012&SID=i9bjerbu530025g3001rw&cm_mmc=CJ-_-6147012-_-11210757&cj=true

But when it comes to how many to be installed I'm lost so I'm looking for advice.

Here is my plan for the building:
1st bay (20x50) is used for RV storage
2nd bay (20x50) is used as boat and truck storage and might also be used as a service bay
3rd bay (20x50) is to be used as general storage and project tinkering. Also I'm building a "clean room" that is 10x20 which a mezzanine above. Here is a floorplan. I should point out that the doors are sectional not rollup and are 14' tall so they will block a lot of area where lights could be placed.

And just for fun this is a pic of the front:

So what do you guys think?

Thanks,
Eric
Amador County, CA

 

[carcruse]

You're on the low end for those "high bay" lights. I'd run you plans through a program such as http://www.visual-3d.com/tools/interior/default.aspx?id=15170 if I were you.
you can try different fixtures on that site.

 

[efinley]

That is an awesome site! Couple of questions:
1) is 30 ft candle about right for general lighting?
2) the list of fixtures is overwhelming. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

[Platonic Solid]

I did a 40' x 60' x 12' eave 2:12 pitch steel garage for a member in Georgia last month. For mounting convenience we clipped all the fixtures to the roof support beams.
If you can provide dimensions and/or a picture of where the roof support beams are I can work backwards from there for a layout and fixture recommendation.

30fc is low. Recommend 50fc or higher. I prefer to aim for around 80fc when everything is new. It will drop off as bulbs age and surfaces become dirty, thus less reflective.

 

[carcruse]

I agree, aim for atleast 80fc especially if you're older.

I got these, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...20-1-4-GESB/100192753?N=5yc1vZc7p5ZwvZ1z1159x
for my 40x60x12 garage. I'm using the 5000 daylight tubes.

 

[efinley]

Well I'm not older, yet... but I do plan to get there someday and I hope to never move so I guess I better shoot for 80 fc.

Platonic Solid, thanks for all the work you do helping lay out lighting for members, that is really awesome! I've attached a couple pics of the inside, the sectional doors are in the 60' wall. I really like the idea of clipping the lights to the purlins, that seems like it would save a lot of effort.

I believe the purlins are spaced about 5' apart and both of the sectional doors are centered in their 20' bays, the big door is 14h x 18w and the little door is 14h x 12w'. The 5th wheel goes in the bay with the 12' wide door.

Thanks,
Eric

 

[Platonic Solid]

What are the white things on the roof?

 

[efinley]

They are ridge vents. There is a chain hanging down from them that lets me open close them. They are pretty common on steel buildings around here but they sure do look weird.

 

[Platonic Solid]

50x60x18

Cooper Metalux 8TSSF-254-UNV-EBT1 Qty. 18
Cooper Metalux SSF-254-UNV-EBT1 Qty. 18

Spec Sheet: http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...ts/metalux/spec_sheets/081872_SSF114_SSSx.pdf

Many manufacturers make similar style strip lights. I do not recommend any fixtures with lamps right next to each other. Assume that you'll probably have to special order these fixtures from a local distributor. I do not recommend the Metalux SNF series or the Lithonia Z series due to poor lamp spacing = reduced efficiency.

F54T5HO Lamp Qty: 108
Suggested lamp: Sylvania 20906 or 20949
$3.80 ea. (the 25,000 hr. Life on that site is wrong. The spec sheet I linked to says 40-45,000 hrs.)

Your ceiling height works with either F32T8 or F54T5. Went with F54T5 to reduce fixture quantity, thus reducing total lighting purchase and installation costs.

 

[Platonic Solid]

50x60x18

I don't have any boats to insert as objects in the building, so I modified 2 pickup trucks
(wider and longer than normal trucks)











SSF-254-UNV-EBT1 is 46" long and 8TSSF-254-UNV-EBT1 is 92" long.

​

 

[Platonic Solid]

50x60x18

You'll need the following parts to hang the fixtures:

B-LINE BE-1-2 - BEAM FASTENER 3/32" TO 9/32" FLANGE

http://www.westwayelectricsupply.com/be-1-2-beam-fastener-3-32-to-9-32-flange.html

http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...el_fasteners_NA/Beams-FlangeBeamFasteners.pdf


B-LINE BH15 - SIDE MOUNT FLUORESCENT LIGHT FIXTURE HANGER

http://www.westwayelectricsupply.com/bh15-side-mount-fluorescent-light-fixture-hanger.html

http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...rs_NA/hangers/light_fixture_hangers/bh15.html


1 in. Zinc-Plated S-Hook (100-Piece per Pack)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-Zinc-Plated-S-Hook-100-Piece-per-Pack-803312/204273842

Here are a couple pics of a recent similar install.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Re: 50x60x18

I don't have any boats to insert as objects in the building, so I modified 2 pickup trucks
(wider and longer than normal trucks)

At the FD, we have a few lights over the apparatus and they are about useless. Above the RV/5th Wheel, I'd put the lights parallel to the edges of it, so the lights shine down on the walls, not the top of the camper.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Re: 50x60x18

At the FD, we have a few lights over the apparatus and they are about useless. Above the RV/5th Wheel, I'd put the lights parallel to the edges of it, so the lights shine down on the walls, not the top of the camper.

The Isoplot posted tells the whole story. Keep in mind that most of the fixtures are around 18 ft high and this layout is weighted towards a simplified purlin install. Eric (efinley) will have to chime in on whether he wants to run unistrut parallel to the vehicles, in which case the layout will be quite different. The layout shown is not how I would place the fixtures if I had a solid ceiling surface to work with, but 40fc between the 5th wheel and the wall is respectable.

 

[zable9]

Re: 50x60x18

I don't have any boats to insert as objects in the building, so I modified 2 pickup trucks
(wider and longer than normal trucks)












SSF-254-UNV-EBT1 is 46" long and 8TSSF-254-UNV-EBT1 is 92" long.

​

Wow...

 

[Platonic Solid]

Here's an isoplot with 4 more fixtures - 1 for each purlin at the camper/wall isle which takes it from 40fc to 61fc without the unistrut/fixture rotation hassle.

Fixture schedule would then be:
Cooper Metalux 8TSSF-254-UNV-EBT1 Qty. 18
Cooper Metalux SSF-254-UNV-EBT1 Qty. 22
F54T5HO Lamp Qty: 116

​

 

[NUTTSGT]

Re: 50x60x18

The Isoplot posted tells the whole story. Keep in mind that most of the fixtures are around 18 ft high and this layout is weighted towards a simplified purlin install. Eric (efinley) will have to chime in on whether he wants to run unistrut parallel to the vehicles, in which case the layout will be quite different. The layout shown is not how I would place the fixtures if I had a solid ceiling surface to work with, but 40fc between the 5th wheel and the wall is respectable.

I don't get into all the formulas of trying to figure out the appropriate FC for a shop/garage. I prefer to put the lighting where I need it according to the layout of what I have but to each his own.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Re: 50x60x18

I don't get into all the formulas of trying to figure out the appropriate FC for a shop/garage. I prefer to put the lighting where I need it according to the layout of what I have but to each his own.

That's fine for smaller areas where you're only spending a couple hundred $, but when your dealing with 3000 sq ft and $3,000+ it's wise to use the tools available to get it right the first time. Piecemealing it after the fact can easily double fixture and installation costs (not to undervalue the aesthetics of a cohesive fixture layout). If you take a look at the Light Fixture Layout Collection thread you'll notice the fixtures are located to provide maximum task lighting.

 

[efinley]

Platonic Solid, these look great. Now a couple more questions.

I was thinking of using flexible metal conduit between the fixtures, is there a better choice? Also as this is looking like almost 6kW of lights I would assume I would want to wire these with 220v.

As for the talk about the area between the 5th wheel and the wall, I don't think lighting is too important over there, once the slides are out on the 5th wheel there isn't enough room over there to do anything.

And one last question. My doors are not rollup they are sectional so when they are open they will block the first 2 sets of lights over both doors. Would I be better off using fewer lights and sliding them over to beside the doors? Or maybe 1 beside the door, 1 above the door and one between the doors?

I really appreciate all the feedback guys.

-Eric

 

[Platonic Solid]

I was thinking of using flexible metal conduit between the fixtures, is there a better choice? Also as this is looking like almost 6kW of lights I would assume I would want to wire these with 220v.

What benefit does wiring them 220V give you? I'll yield to the more knowledgeable electricians here.

My doors are not rollup they are sectional so when they are open they will block the first 2 sets of lights over both doors. Would I be better off using fewer lights and sliding them over to beside the doors? Or maybe 1 beside the door, 1 above the door and one between the doors?

Yes, the garage doors will cover some fixtures when open. This is unavoidable since the doors appear to cover the first 3 purlins. I assume they'd be open primarily during the day (thus permitting natural light entry) and closed at night. I would leave them as close to where I placed them as possible.

Another option would be to run some unistrut to permit the fixtures to be installed under the garage tracks. Then they'd never be covered up.

 

[efinley]

The primary advantage of wiring them at 220 is that it halves the current per leg which would allow either fewer circuits or smaller wire size. I'll just need to make sure that the ballasts are rated for either 110 or 220.

 

[Platonic Solid]

The primary advantage of wiring them at 220 is that it halves the current per leg which would allow either fewer circuits or smaller wire size. I'll just need to make sure that the ballasts are rated for either 110 or 220.

They're commercial ballasts, the "UNV" in the Metalux p/n means universal voltage 120 thru 277.