Help me build a workbench?

[MrWrencher823]

Hey everyone! First off, let me start off by saying I've never built or done anything like this. The extent of my knowledge of working with wood is how to split it, how to make a stick for hot dogs/ marshmallows and pine wood derby cars.

I recently acquired a flat, very heavy and wooden door. I would love to use it as a work bench in my basement!

The door measures out too
35 5/8 inches wide
83 1/16 inches tall
And almost 1 3/4 inches thick

My initial plan is to get about 4 blocks of wood 4x4 that are about 3 1/2 feet tall and drill some wood screws to hold them down. I can't help but feel like this won't be enough, I thought maybe put some 2x4's across at the base of the legs and maybe put some plywood on top of that area to make a lower level shelf.

I guess my question is this...

Would this idea work? I don't plan on doing anything crazy on it. Just more so looking for a place to store tools when I'm working on something down there.

Let me know if there's anything easier or better suited for this situation. Thanks!




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[jimreed2160]

I used a similar door for a bench and it turned out well. I cut mine down to 72" because I kept bumping into the corner. I mounted a vise on one corner and use it for my miter saw.

I built a frame out of 2x4s to hold it up. The two ends are "H" sections with a rail across the top. I joined these together in front and back with long pieces of 2x4. There is a plywood shelf on one of the stretchers that is about 4" off the floor. I tied it all together with a piece of plywood on the back attached to the top stretcher, the bottom stretcher, and both end pieces. Everything was glued with wood glue and fastened with sheetrock screws. When the frame was done, I placed the door on top. It sits against the wall and is held on by gravity.

Good luck with yours. Get lots of 2x4s and knock yourself out.

 

[jloehlein]

If you don't brace the legs down low, the bench will be pretty unstable. Check these simple plans out. I have built several benches using this design and they're all really solid. Very easy to build, as well.

 

[machine_punk]

I usually try to build a stable base, then put a top on it. there are any number of ways to make the legs stable. My favorite is about a 12" wide strip of 1/2" to 3/4" plywood (whatever I have lying around), then lag screw that into the legs. I put this about halfway between the floor and the bench top. Then, you can lag some 2x4's at the top of the legs, to attach the top.

I prefer to have at least 6" border of bench top, for easy clamping of whatever you are working on. What I regret about this smaller bench is that there is NOT enough clamping room on the top. Now that I use this in a larger space, I'll likely put a larger top on it.
View media item 11627
As you see above, I've used two 2x6"s for each leg. This makes the cutting easy, to make room for the skirt boards used to attach the top. The plywood bracing on the legs isn't pretty, but it sure does make a stable bench.

I like to have one of the long sides of the bench open. It makes it more comfortable to stand and work.

I like to have the bench around 28" wide. That is narrow enough to get the bench through pretty much any man door (something to consider, since you are making yours out of a door...you may want to cut it down and make it narrower. Those who prefer to push the bench up to the wall and store toolboxes on the bench usually prefer a wider bench (as much as 36").

I tend to over-build on bench, but I use them for fabrication (not just storing tools. Although, by the end of the project, I am usually pushing tools to one end to work on the other end). Here is another bench I built. It looks a little overbuilt, but it usually holds a 1,300-pound sheet metal machine. Here, I've arranged the two-by supports for the top to provide plenty of clamping space on the edges, if I ever take the machine off this bench.
View media item 18634

 

[Kent_B]

I just drew a rough sketch and started scrounging 2x4 and 4x4 lumber. Quite a lot of it was scrap and salvaged stuff. My bench top was made from 2x10 with staggered joints and **** blocks. I fastened it with deck screws and carpenter's glue. Low buck, but when my son and I stretched the string across the tops of the frame, it kissed all mounting points at the same time. Squares, levels, and string will be your best friend.

Here is mine nearing completion with my son "product testing."

 

[matt_i]

My thoughts are these.

- if you have the tools and skills, make a sq tube steel welded base. since the joints are all moment-resisting, it will be very stable.
- next put individual leveling feet on each corner that way it will always be rock-free, no matter where you move it.
- if you do go with a wooden base, X-bracing the back with sheetmetal strapping or screwing it to the studs of a building will add the stability.
- a key point in the design is what is going to go underneath it? drawers/shelves/other tools like welders/gang boxes should all be designed into the base.

 

[MushCreek]

I make my benches like this sketch. The legs are made of 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood, tapered from 8" wide on top to 4" at the bottom. In the corner is a 2X2. Upper and lower shelf is framed with 2X4's. The key is that everything is glued and screwed with good wood glue. The resulting structure is very strong and stable. I had 2000 lbs. on one without any give. Gotta get to work; can explain more tonight, if interested.

 

[Screw Loose Dan]

Let me know if there's anything easier or better suited for this situation. Thanks!

I don't know if it's easy or better, but what worked for me was to purchase two of these legs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD0XZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I bolted a wooden countertop to them (but a solid door would work). You also need a couple boards across the bottom for stability, which I made into a shelf.

An old picture, but you can see the bench.

 

[bdbecker]

Here's how I built my workbench legs:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6111516&postcount=128

You can then frame it out using a few more 2x4's and attach your door as a top using L-brackets (or something similar).

View media item 64859

 

[jimgood]

Do you need the work bench free standing so you can move it around? If not, mount a 2 x 4 on the wall at the height you want the bench (minus the thickness of the top). Cut the legs to the same height (adjusted for differences in floor height). Screw the top into the 2 x 4 and the legs. Done. Ain't goin' nowhere and you don't need bracing for the legs because the mounting on the wall negates any lateral movement...unless your wall is really flimsy.

 

[regguy1]

Scroll down to post No. 268 here for additional photos and info: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50406&page=14

I built a bench totally enclosed with doors and drawers form 2"x4"s for legs and 12" plywood. check it out.

 

[TerryH]

I have multiple benches that utilize solid core doors for tops. I used laminated 2x4 construction for the legs with 2x4 stretchers. A void is left in each leg glue up to form a mortise for the 2x4 stretcher to go in. The rest is just glued and screwed. Super simple to build and massively strong. I edge band the doors with solid wood and use a piece of 1/4" melamine for the work surface. The melamine is easily replaceable if it gets damaged.

 

[Falcon67]

Starting post #249, I used a series of relatively simple boxed 2x4 sections to build my main bench. It's against the wall but stand alone would work similar.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100482&page=13

TerryH, I think your bench legs may fail somewhere above Magnitude 9 or so...

 

[mike_dmt]

Some bombproof looking benches guys!

If I read right, the OP said he had limited experience with anything like this, so I'd guess he might not have access to an abundance of tools. Maybe he does, I dunno.

 

[Joemctag]

Yeah, you want free-standing for most fab./assembly work, but attaching back edge to wall beats any free-standing one for not moving.

 

[nadogail]

A table, or work bench, is a flat surface with something to support it.

You can fill in the details.

 

[Marctrees]

Whatever you do, make sure the edges (door) hangs over the frame by at least 3" on all sides so you can clamp work to the tabletop.

Marc

 

[gearhead1]

Here's how I built my workbench legs:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6111516&postcount=128

You can then frame it out using a few more 2x4's and attach your door as a top using L-brackets (or something similar).

View media item 64859

I like this design. The legs are supported and you can put rolling items underneath the bench.

I see the Rolling Rock sign in the corner, my favorite!

 

[MushCreek]

This is how I build benches that aren't going to be secured to the wall. The legs are made of plywood pieces, maybe 3/4" x 8" wide at the top. There's a 2X4 inside the corner of the two leg pieces. Here's the key- Glue everything, and put together with screws. I had a bench like this in my machine shop, with a solid core door as a top. It handled a 2000 lb. mold easily.

 

[Daniel Dudley]

This is how I build benches that aren't going to be secured to the wall. The legs are made of plywood pieces, maybe 3/4" x 8" wide at the top. There's a 2X4 inside the corner of the two leg pieces. Here's the key- Glue everything, and put together with screws. I had a bench like this in my machine shop, with a solid core door as a top. It handled a 2000 lb. mold easily.

I like it !

 

[tarmy]

This is one of mine...

 

[schurtjl]

Build a strong base that won’t wobble on you. For that length of top, you won’t need more that a post at each corner. I used 6”x6” posts. Solid as can be. 1/8” metal top formed up and placed over the 2x12’s. This one is 11’ long, 32” deep, 37” tall.