Help Me Build Some Big Drawers!

[pancho400cid]

I have a large old electrical enclosure in my garage that serves as a work surface (mostly to support bench grinders) and storage. Photo is below - pardon the mess - I'm workin' on it!



To increase the storage space and utility of the enclosure, I plan to build two large drawers with heavy duty slides to mount inside it and hold:

Power Tools - top drawer
Jackstands/jack-related items - bottom drawer

The drawers will be as wide, deep and high (two equal height drawers), as the enclosure will allow. I plan on 3/4 plywood front, back and sides, and a 3/8 plywood bottom. I'm thinking I'll use pocket screws for the "box" and putting them on the sides so they are at least a little bit hidden. These will be crude drawers for garage storage. Looks aren't too important, but I want them to look "decent". I'll probably paint them grey.

The rough plan for the drawers is sketched below (best I could do on my lunch hour):



I'm no woodworker. I plan to buy a lower-tier Kreg pocket screw fixture for the corner joints, and a Kreg Accu-Cut saw track to help me make better-than-freehand cuts.

There seems to be a lot of debate about gluing the bottoms into the dados. I want these to be very strong. I'm planning on gluing since it's all-plywood construction. Will I regret doing so?

I own a router, and will buy any needed bit. Any input on making the dados correctly / accurately would be welcome. My current plan is to clamp a level across the drawer sides as a guide.

Any other tips, comments, etc. are welcome. I plan to get as far as I can this coming weekend. Thanks!

...

 

[tarmy]

That 3/8 is going to sag…

I have built many drawers that size…I just use 3/4 ply for all 5 pieces. I simply screw and glue the joints…then the bottom inset into the sides. No dado nor miter. Works just fine for heavy loads with good sliders.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I wouldn't put jack stands in a drawer, just put them on the bottom shelf.

Under my workbench, I built boxes that just sit on the shelf and slide in/out. I can pull them out as far I I need to grab something, out onto the floor or on to the work bench top itself.

 

[LopezBart]

I've made the drawers sides w/ 1" nominal pine (I had it), glued together and screwed at the corners, with a 3/8" plywood bottom glued and screwed on. 3/4" Plywood would work fine for the sides as well. No need to get fancy in terms of joints; Titebond III will hold it together.

 

[PCustoms]

3/4" ply sides, at least 1/2" bottoms.

 

[LeeG]

I built all my shop drawers exactly as you are planning, but I used 1/2” for the bottoms.

 

[purplezr2]

Maybe I'm not understanding your drawing, why not put the pocket hole screws on the front panels.

 

[PCustoms]

Maybe I'm not understanding your drawing, why not put the pocket hole screws on the front panels.

If he puts them on the sides they will stick out like a sore thumb, but I assume he's not adding a front to the drawer.

 

[pancho400cid]

Hey guys -

Thanks for the replies. You've definitely given me some things to think about. Just keeping it simple per Tarmy's comments might be the way to go.

Maybe I'm not understanding your drawing, why not put the pocket hole screws on the front panels.

If he puts them on the sides they will stick out like a sore thumb, but I assume he's not adding a front to the drawer.

Pretty much this... Putting the pocket screws in the sides at least leaves the front without screws showing since I'm not putting front covers on the drawers.

I'll definitely go with at least 1/2" thick plywood for the bottoms (3/4" if I opt to just screw the whole drawer together).

...

 

[JohnX14]

I vote for all 3/4" plywood. I'd dado the bottom into at least the sides, probably into the front and back, as well. i'd dado the back into the sides. I'd dado the front into the sides. Glue and screw all the dado joints. Just with something as simple as drywall srcrews. These screws will all be on the side and bottom, so they won't show. No need for even using pocket screws. These are workshop drawers. But drawer fronts could always be added. All that's needed for this is a 3/4" router bit since you have a router, and a straight edge to use a circular saw and/ or the smallest/ cheapest table saw ever made.

 

[cruzer75]

For pocket screws I bought the Harbor Freight pocket hole jig. It works well comes with some nice features and some screws.

I think you can be as fancy or as simple as you want. Daddos etc just make it more complicated. Go simple, 4 sides with pocket screws and glue and then inert a bottom and screw in from the side(or even nail gun em in)

Stewart

 

[Fav Onefour]

Slides will make a big difference with drawers that large. Heavy duty slides are often 3/4" vs. standard width. Keep that dimension in mind before you build drawer boxes.

The 3/8 bottoms wouldn't be enough for my taste.

I know that most cabinet shops like doing dado cuts around the drawer and doing slide in bottoms. The method is easy and fast. It's not super strong but they also have a method to quickly replace the bottoms.

I just did a set of 36"x 30" drawers for heavy storage. Sides are 3/4" bb ply with shallow dado cuts on the corners. I did pocket holes and glued the joints.
I like the drawers @tarmy shows. My initial idea was to go that route. A properly glued joint is dang strong. In my case I added dado cuts so I could tighten up easier with the pocket hole fastening.
I didn't trust a sliding bottom so I did glued quarter quarter around the bottom edges. I used shallow cabinet screws from the bottom for even more insurance. It takes a little more work with planning and assembly but the drawers are solid.

One last trick for drawers in a workshop.
I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out drawer pulls that would be strong and not catch on cords, clothes, and whatever. Toolboxes come with great handles but those buggers are expensive for wood drawers. After some searching, I found extruded aluminum stock that I could cut to length.

There is a whole slew of options if you go that route.

 

[TonyG109]

The only things I can add to all of the above is get full extension slides and go heavy duty. There's nothing more frustrating than not being able to get an item out of the back of the drawer because the drawer doesn't extend out far enough except maybe the slides buckling or wearing out prematurely.

 

[CraigStu]

Heck if you will be painting the drawers I'd skip all the fancy joints and just screw the sides to the bottoms. This is also where using 3/4" plywood for all pieces helps. For the screws that will show on the front panel, be real careful and countersink the heads about 1/8" or a little less. Fill w/ your favorite wood filler, sand smooth and paint. Or make it a point that they show. Buy some wood buttons made for this exact purpose instead of the filler. Buy one of these for the #10 screws to make this job go much quicker.

https://www.amazon.com/toolant-Countersink-Drill-Set-Bits/dp/B0F9KTG96C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

A drill w/ the countersink bit and your other drill w/ the appropriate tip for the screws you choose, a bead of Titebond, and bam they are together
You can put the false fronts on like Tarmy did so no screws are visible but heck you have doors on your cabinet so why bother.

 

[MoonRise]

Just put the jack stands on the bottom of the cabinet.

What, no hand cut dovetails? OK, maybe machine cut dovetails.

Making a box (and a drawer is a box), look into box joints. With a router and some jig(s), bought or shop made, you can make them pretty easily. You can make them with a saw instead of a router too. Not as fast as pocket screws. Very strong joint though.

40" wide x 22" deep x 20" high drawer/box? No way that I'd use 3/8" ply in grooves for the bottom panel, too easy to put lots of weight in there and sag the bottom panel right out. Way too easy to put a LOT of stuff/weight in a drawer/box that big. Watch out for the weight rating of the slides too.

That big of a box and I'd look into making a frame inside the box carcass and having the box/drawer bottom panel resting on that frame. Think more of a machine shipping crate and not a sock drawer in a dresser.

 

[dave*99]

I built some heady duty drawers using these slides.

Get the Ultimate Durability and Functionality with Heavy Duty Full-Extension Drawer Slides from Centerline

Experience durability and strength with the Centerline Lifetime Series 758 Heavy-Duty Drawer Slides. Our full extension drawer slides can support up to 220 lbs and offer smooth, quiet operation. Shop heavy duty drawer slides online & in-Store.

www.rockler.com

I stress tested them by standing in them. They can easily hold two of me.

 

[pancho400cid]

What, no hand cut dovetails?

I built some heady duty drawers using these slides.

Those look nice! There is a Rockler store not too far from where I work, but I bought some others already. The ones I bought are full extension, rated for 110 LB. I think they'll be OK, but the plan I have right now would allow putting in bigger slides without "too" much effort in the future if they are not up to the job.

...

 

[Fav Onefour]

Those look nice! There is a Rockler store not too far from where I work, but I bought some others already. The ones I bought are full extension, rated for 110 LB. I think they'll be OK, but the plan I have right now would allow putting in bigger slides without "too" much effort in the future if they are not up to the job.

...

Keep in mind that the side clearance on your 110 LB are probably 1/2" vs. 3/4" for the heavier slides in the link.

 

[lund]

You have some good advice. But keep in mind you have to have room for the sliders so you may want & need the door fronts wider than the edge. Plywood is pretty strong and glued and screwed is fine. I do not see the need for pocket holes though if you are not so concerned about appearance. They will be less strong that screwing from the ends with the right tapered hole and pre-countersunk. Just space regularly and it should look fine for whatever you see.

I have had good luck with shellac for an easy to repair finish that makes the wood a little stronger (soaks in) and prevents drips etc from rapidly penetrating.

 

[gahrajmahal]

I’d vote for the pocket screws especially with plywood. Screwing into the edge of plywood can make it expand and drilling a pilot hole makes it easier for the screw to strip. Barrel nuts and wide flange screws will make even 3/8” bottoms sturdy enough.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I knew a girl that needed big drawers.
She was a lof of fun but it didnt last...

 

[pancho400cid]

Hey guys - thanks for all the input. I got as far as I could this weekend, but have a long way to go. I won't be able to get back to it for a couple of weeks.

 

[pancho400cid]

I thought I would update this post with "the rest of the story". I FINALLY got my drawers built and installed. I'm happy with how they turned out, but it was WAYYYY more work, time and expense than I first thought... as usual.

It started with a plan:


I added 2x4s inside the enclosure to put the mounting points into the opening and not blocked by the steel lip around the front. It took a LOT of shimming and trimming to get everything equal-width, plum, etc. :


I cut down the parts from sheet using a Kreg AccuTrak saw guide and a 4' x 8' piece of hard foam insulation. I saw that online somewhere and it is a very good way to cut down sheets if you don't have a table saw etc. The fronts were cut from a left-over sheet of 3/4" marine plywood I had. The sides and back were cut from 3/4" (actually 23/32) Radiata plywood from Homey D's. The bottoms were cut from 1/2" (actually 15/32) ProWood BCX plywood. I would say the saw guide was worthwhile. I was getting accuracy within 1/16" or better for the most part. Not furniture grade, but better than I would have gotten by hand or by clamping a level for a guide:


I cut dados around the inside bottom of the panels. The bottoms were 15/32" thick, so I bought a 31/64" dia. router bit made for undersized plywood from Rockler. The clearance seemed about right to me as a non-woodworker. Maybe a hair loose if anything. I also added pocket screw holes to the sides with a Kreg Pocket Jointer:


I glued the drawers together and clamped with ratchet straps, and checked them with a framing square to get them as close as I could to square:




After the glue set I drove the Kreg screws. After the drawers were together, I decided to add a bottom stiffener. Then I painted them (one coat of Zinsser 123 Primer, and two coats of floor and patio paint (Valspar IIRC).




I installed the drawers into the cabinet. I ended up buying heavy-duty slides from Rockler as mentioned in the comments. They were 3/4" wide instead of the original 1/2" wide ones I had already bought, so the plan had to change accordingly. Then I decided to add a top to the enclosure, which had just been uncovered steel before:


Lastly, I cut thin luan to cover the various openings (also painted grey) and put the doors back on. I attached the new top to the back wall with angle brackets and screws so the whole thing wouldn't tip when I opened a heavy loaded drawer. I also added a draw-latch (from Amazon, stainless steel, surprisingly good quality) to keep the doors closed since I had to remove the original latching because it went too far into the enclosure:




I'm concerned the drawers might be "too" deep. I gotta get them loaded up and see how it goes.

...

 

[dave*99]

I glued the drawers together and clamped with ratchet straps, and checked them with a framing square to get them as close as I could to square

Try measuring the diagonals instead of using a framing square. If diagonal measures are equal it’s square.
Glad to see you went with the heavier drawer slides. Dems some big drawers. Or perhaps draws as some folks call it. Although I have never seen draw slides advertised.

 

[Jgaz]

I thought I would update this post with "the rest of the story". I FINALLY got my drawers built and installed. I'm happy with how they turned out, but it was WAYYYY more work, time and expense than I first thought... as usual.

It started with a plan:


I added 2x4s inside the enclosure to put the mounting points into the opening and not blocked by the steel lip around the front. It took a LOT of shimming and trimming to get everything equal-width, plum, etc. :


I cut down the parts from sheet using a Kreg AccuTrak saw guide and a 4' x 8' piece of hard foam insulation. I saw that online somewhere and it is a very good way to cut down sheets if you don't have a table saw etc. The fronts were cut from a left-over sheet of 3/4" marine plywood I had. The sides and back were cut from 3/4" (actually 23/32) Radiata plywood from Homey D's. The bottoms were cut from 1/2" (actually 15/32) ProWood BCX plywood. I would say the saw guide was worthwhile. I was getting accuracy within 1/16" or better for the most part. Not furniture grade, but better than I would have gotten by hand or by clamping a level for a guide:


I cut dados around the inside bottom of the panels. The bottoms were 15/32" thick, so I bought a 31/64" dia. router bit made for undersized plywood from Rockler. The clearance seemed about right to me as a non-woodworker. Maybe a hair loose if anything. I also added pocket screw holes to the sides with a Kreg Pocket Jointer:


I glued the drawers together and clamped with ratchet straps, and checked them with a framing square to get them as close as I could to square:




After the glue set I drove the Kreg screws. After the drawers were together, I decided to add a bottom stiffener. Then I painted them (one coat of Zinsser 123 Primer, and two coats of floor and patio paint (Valspar IIRC).




I installed the drawers into the cabinet. I ended up buying heavy-duty slides from Rockler as mentioned in the comments. They were 3/4" wide instead of the original 1/2" wide ones I had already bought, so the plan had to change accordingly. Then I decided to add a top to the enclosure, which had just been uncovered steel before:


Lastly, I cut thin luan to cover the various openings (also painted grey) and put the doors back on. I attached the new top to the back wall with angle brackets and screws so the whole thing wouldn't tip when I opened a heavy loaded drawer. I also added a draw-latch (from Amazon, stainless steel, surprisingly good quality) to keep the doors closed since I had to remove the original latching because it went too far into the enclosure:




I'm concerned the drawers might be "too" deep. I gotta get them loaded up and see how it goes.

...

If the drawers turn out to be too deep in use you might try this idea.
add a couple of runners to the sides and make a sliding tray about half the width, of the drawer.

Here is an example of one of my drawers. Not as deep as yours, and the tray is metal, but you get the idea.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

I'm concerned the drawers might be "too" deep. I gotta get them loaded up and see how it goes.

...

If you do decide the drawers are less than ideal don't be afraid to simply go with shelves. I have quite a few large electrical enclosures repurposed for storage in and out of the shop. Most are shallow and wall mounted but a couple are deep and sit on the ground. Shelves have always worked better for me, no tipping and support a lot of weight, but I see how you could find drawers useful in that workbench setup. A very low front panel would probably help in that set up. Pics of a few of my panels. Ed.

 

[pancho400cid]

add a couple of runners to the sides and make a sliding tray about half the width, of the drawer.

I had thought about doing something like this. I loaded up the bottom drawer this weekend with jackstands/jack-related stuff and I was surprised at how quick they filled the drawer, but I think it's fine as is.

The top drawer may need more work, possibly similar to what you suggest, with a lower level for power tools, and a movable tray for bits, blades, etc.

If you do decide the drawers are less than ideal don't be afraid to simply go with shelves.

Your shelves look very functional. You have some heavy-duty stuff!!

I could have put shelves in there, but if I'm honest, I kinda wanted to build the drawers just to do it. I'm also tired of pulling stuff out of the way to get to the drill at the back of the cabinet or whatever. That said, shelves in the big enclosure would be much better than the current set up, which is kitchen cabinets pulled out of our house during a remodel.

Through the drawer project, I was reminded of an important lesson I learned after it was too late - "never marry a woman that is smarter than you"

Me: "Hon... I want to build some big drawers for that big steel cabinet in the garage"

Her: "That sounds like it will take a lot of time..."

Me: "Oh, I don't think it will be too bad... "

Her: "How much will it cost?"

Me: "A few hundred dollars. I need to buy some tools too... "

Her: "Don't you already own every tool ever made? And couldn't you just buy a cabinet already made for that much!?..."




..

 

[TonyG109]

Through the drawer project, I was reminded of an important lesson I learned after it was too late - "never marry a woman that is smarter than you"

Me: "Hon... I want to build some big drawers for that big steel cabinet in the garage"

Her: "That sounds like it will take a lot of time..."

Me: "Oh, I don't think it will be too bad... "

Her: "How much will it cost?"

Me: "A few hundred dollars. I need to buy some tools too... "

Her: "Don't you already own every tool ever made? And couldn't you just buy a cabinet already made for that much!?..."

My wife is smarter than me but I've worn her down. She now just sighs and walks the other way!

 

[rharman]

If the drawers turn out to be too deep in use you might try this idea.
add a couple of runners to the sides and make a sliding tray about half the width, of the drawer.

Here is an example of one of my drawers. Not as deep as yours, and the tray is metal, but you get the idea.

I did that with 3-4 drawers on my workbench. It uses the space much more efficiently. Been that way for YEARS. One drawer is a triple decker - 2 sliding trays.

 

[TonyG109]

I love the storage capacity of warehouse shelving, but getting to smaller stuff in the back can be challenging. Here are some pictures of a drawer a made to ease access to that stuff. The slides are full extension, about 48" long and are rated for something like 200 lbs each. The bottom is 3/4" melamine that rests in dados in the drawer sides, front and back. The back end of the slides are attached to the wall to prevent the drawer from dumping on the floor when extended. It works great and is very smooth!

 

[Smilodon]

Reference "Material"...

 

[TonyG109]

Reference "Material"...

Yep, those are big "drawers"!

 

[dhally]

No need to buy tools. Just make all pieces out of 3/4" plywood then glue and screw together, no joints. The fronts are 2 piece, the glued in front and then a larger, nicer front that is screwed from behind.

 

[MoonRise]

No need to buy tools.

Gasp! Blasphemy! Heathen!

Isn't that grounds for an automatic suspension or revocation of a Man-Card?

 

[MoonRise]

@TonyG109 ,

What do you think of that scaffold that's visible in the background? One has been on my list of things to get for a while now.

Besides being used as shelving and storage for moving dollies and old wooded framed tennis racquets with some in racquet presses that is? ( I have also been accused of putting items on almost any horizontal surface.)

 

[dave*99]

@TonyG109 ,

What do you think of that scaffold that's visible in the background? One has been on my list of things to get for a while now.

Besides being used as shelving and storage for moving dollies and old wooded framed tennis racquets with some in racquet presses that is? ( I have also been accused of putting items on almost any horizontal surface.)

That yellow scaffold is Baker scaffold. Everybody should own some. It's cheap new and cheaper used.

 

[TonyG109]

@TonyG109 ,

What do you think of that scaffold that's visible in the background? One has been on my list of things to get for a while now.

Besides being used as shelving and storage for moving dollies and old wooded framed tennis racquets with some in racquet presses that is? ( I have also been accused of putting items on almost any horizontal surface.)

Yeah, I was hoping nobody would notice all the background junk. I should have known better! The old racquets are actually sitting on a smaller mobile scaffold! I'm surprised there were no comments on the one small bottle balanced on the corner of the drawer! As big as the drawer is, it's not quite big enough!

The scaffold is great but it does collect a lot of stuff on it. I leave the bigger scaffold set up so I can access the top shelves. And it's a pita to setup/breakdown.

 

[Smilodon]

I did notice that you have both general (gen 2 even) and specific Motul products...

 

[TonyG109]

I did notice that you have both general (gen 2 even) and specific Motul products...

Hmm, I didn't even notice that! At one point, we had eight different vehicle and only two of them used the same oil so we had quite the variety. We're down to five now, not including all the lawn/yard equipment. When the drawer is closed, I can't read the labels and it's a bit disorganized now. I guess I'll go organize it now...