Help me decide which tile

[///Mizzou3]

Hello, long time reader/lurker, first time poster. I have a detached 24X32’ garage in St. Louis. It currently has no insulation (future project), so the floor has to deal with a wide temperature variance. It’s only heated or cooled if I’m working in the garage. I went with an acid etching concrete stain last year with a clear epoxy top coat. While I loved the look of it initially, I have found the highly glossy surface shows surface scratches way too easily. I really cannot work in my garage anymore without scratching the floor. This simply is not working for me anymore and I’m going with tile.

The garage is used to store two “toy” cars and the third bay will eventually house my daily driver. I do not plan to park the daily driver in the garage when there is snow on the ground. I don’t do any welding. The most abuse my floor will see is floor jacks & jack stands, and me parking on my Kwik Lift.

I have narrowed my search down to two tiles; one is a ceramic 16x16” and the other is a porcelain glazed 18x18”. Both have a PEI rating of 4. I’ve looked at both tiles side by side in person, and aesthetically I like the look of the ceramic tile a little more than the porcelain. The ceramic tile is also $0.11 cheaper sq/ft (not a huge amount of money, but any savings is nice. What concerns me with the ceramic tile is its moisture absorption rating of 3-7%. The porcelain is obviously impervious. With indoor temperature of my detached garage often dropping below freeze in the winter, will the ceramic tile be at a significant risk or cracking?

Below are links to the two tiles in question. Which would you choose given garage and intended usage? I plan to bite the bullet and go with an epoxy grout, because I want to keep the grout color fairly light and not have to worry about stains. What is the minimum grout line width I can use given the large size of these tiles?

I do have experience laying tile. I put 12x12” granite tiles in my kitchen with 1/16” grout lines (epoxy). I also did 16X16” ceramic in my basement with 1/8” grout lines (sanded).

Thank you

16x16 Ceramic: http://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficM...-Floor-Tile-LPAC91OS/202612649#specifications

18x18 Porcelain: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Aladdin-...t-case-HP021818HD1P6/203630778#specifications

 

[bull_duck]

The good:

• P.E.I. Rating 4: Suitable for heavy traffic on residental and commercial floors
• Impervious tile has water absorption of less than 0.5% for indoor or outdoor use and is frost proof
• C.O.F. greater than .60

The bad:

• suitable for medium-duty residential floors, including floors in kitchens, halls, corridors, balconies, terraces and other areas with normal footwear and small amounts of dirt.
• The tile is glazed with a smooth surface and a low sheen.

There appears to be some inconsistencies in the description. I am not a tile "expert." Household has DIY over 1,500 SF tile.

For a garage I would want to see on the product description like the Daltile at your HomeDepot

• designed for heavy-duty residential and commercial floors, including entrances, hotels and sales rooms.
• Grade 1, porcelain tile for floor, wall and countertop use
• P.E.I. Rating IV has high resistance to abrasion and is suitable for heavy-duty residential and commercial floor installations, such as entrances, commercial kitchens, hotels and exhibition and sales rooms with some dirt conditions
• Impervious tile has water absorption of less than 0.5% for indoor or outdoor use and is frost proof
• Slip-resistance/Coefficient of Friction rating of .60 wet is skid resistant for indoor and outdoor use
• Frost resistant for indoor or outdoor applications

I suggest you get a sample tile and put it through your own tests to confirm it will hold up as you expect.

I considered the Daltile. Ordered a sample shown at the top of my garage build thread. Beautiful tile. Solid porcelain but not solid through color. Appears strong enough. But $3 SF more than VCT.

My opinion can change up to when I put my order in. Admittedly currently swayed by the low price of VCT, the durability of VCT, low maintenance, and nice color selection.

 

[SapesOfIndia]

Ceramic is supposed to be sealed. Added expense will compensate the price difference. With this difference consider both the same cost. I think either of these tiles will work. Between the two it is a hard choice. Ceramic definitely looks better. I have a similar rustic look tile but porcelain.

If I was you I would keep looking for a PEI5 tile. There is a lot of added material and labor to put these tile down. Quality of materials and labor will be more important for a long term durability. How you "bed" the tiles is going to be the key. Start documenting your cost and it will help you put various costs in context with total cost. Put the labor costs in even if you do it yourself.
Here is my list to get started. Not everything will be applicable in your situation and you may have some added elements.

Oil Stain Cleaner - TSP
Chalk Line
Thinset
Grout
Latex additive
Grout float
Grout Sealant
Grout haze remover
Wet Saw
Notched trowel
Spacers
Leveling system (optional)
Rubber Mallet
SS Ledge
Patch cement
Ledge cement
Thinset mixing blade
Knee Saver
Gloves
Sponges
Nippers (optional)
Labor

 

[32krazy!]

im guessing theres a typo? installed depth of the ceramic is .334"
installed depth of the porcelin is 3"?

 

[///Mizzou3]

The good:

• P.E.I. Rating 4: Suitable for heavy traffic on residental and commercial floors
• Impervious tile has water absorption of less than 0.5% for indoor or outdoor use and is frost proof
• C.O.F. greater than .60

The bad:

• suitable for medium-duty residential floors, including floors in kitchens, halls, corridors, balconies, terraces and other areas with normal footwear and small amounts of dirt.
• The tile is glazed with a smooth surface and a low sheen.

There appears to be some inconsistencies in the description. I am not a tile "expert." Household has DIY over 1,500 SF tile.

For a garage I would want to see on the product description like the Daltile at your HomeDepot

• designed for heavy-duty residential and commercial floors, including entrances, hotels and sales rooms.
• Grade 1, porcelain tile for floor, wall and countertop use
• P.E.I. Rating IV has high resistance to abrasion and is suitable for heavy-duty residential and commercial floor installations, such as entrances, commercial kitchens, hotels and exhibition and sales rooms with some dirt conditions
• Impervious tile has water absorption of less than 0.5% for indoor or outdoor use and is frost proof
• Slip-resistance/Coefficient of Friction rating of .60 wet is skid resistant for indoor and outdoor use
• Frost resistant for indoor or outdoor applications

I suggest you get a sample tile and put it through your own tests to confirm it will hold up as you expect.

I considered the Daltile. Ordered a sample shown at the top of my garage build thread. Beautiful tile. Solid porcelain but not solid through color. Appears strong enough. But $3 SF more than VCT.

My opinion can change up to when I put my order in. Admittedly currently swayed by the low price of VCT, the durability of VCT, low maintenance, and nice color selection.

Thanks for your input, I enjoyed your garage build tread. I love your cabinets. I was almost committed to VCT tile after I became unsatisfied with my acid stain floor. The price of VCT is great, I love the look of it versus tile, and it would be far easier and cheaper to install than tile. I've done a lot of digging around on here and it seems like VC has received a some mixed reviews. At this point, I want a floor that requires no other maintenance other than mopping. Still, the VCT bug bites me; it's in so many retail stores were customers drag carts around all the time after all...

I've tested both tiles. I've rubbed various sharp metal objects to them and can't scratch it. A full bodied porcelain would be ideal, but at 2-4 times the cost, it's not worth it to me. I'm overly clumsy with dropping things and I can easily replace a damaged tile if needed.

Ceramic is supposed to be sealed. Added expense will compensate the price difference. With this difference consider both the same cost. I think either of these tiles will work. Between the two it is a hard choice. Ceramic definitely looks better. I have a similar rustic look tile but porcelain.

If I was you I would keep looking for a PEI5 tile. There is a lot of added material and labor to put these tile down. Quality of materials and labor will be more important for a long term durability. How you "bed" the tiles is going to be the key. Start documenting your cost and it will help you put various costs in context with total cost. Put the labor costs in even if you do it yourself.
Here is my list to get started. Not everything will be applicable in your situation and you may have some added elements.

Oil Stain Cleaner - TSP
Chalk Line
Thinset
Grout
Latex additive
Grout float
Grout Sealant
Grout haze remover
Wet Saw
Notched trowel
Spacers
Leveling system (optional)
Rubber Mallet
SS Ledge
Patch cement
Ledge cement
Thinset mixing blade
Knee Saver
Gloves
Sponges
Nippers (optional)
Labor

I agree with your advice that proper installation is key to the longevity of the installation. I've picked up a few tips search around here including back buttering the tiles. You make a very good point about the additional costs that go into tile installation. Thankfully, I have all the necessary tools in your list due to my previous DIY tile projects around the house.

The epoxy grout for such a large are isn't going to be cheap or very fun to clean up.

im guessing theres a typo? installed depth of the ceramic is .334"
installed depth of the porcelin is 3"?

I noticed that as well. I think they had the thickness for that tile listed in another field in the specifications. I have no idea what the 3" was supposed to represent.

 

[Dakota00]

The epoxy grout for such a large are isn't going to be cheap or very fun to clean up.

Also not needed unless you have money and lot of time to burn. You'll be perfectly fine using a quality sanded grout (preferably medium to darker color) with a sealer.

 

[///Mizzou3]

Also not needed unless you have money and lot of time to burn. You'll be perfectly fine using a quality sanded grout (preferably medium to darker color) with a sealer.

Unfortunately, with such a light tile color and a desire to have the grout lines blend in, I've decided on light color grout. I figure I should go ahead and put the work and money in now rather than worry about constant sealing to avoid stains in the future.

 

[Dakota00]

Have you worked with epoxy grout in the past?

 

[///Mizzou3]

Have you worked with epoxy grout in the past?

Yes, I used with the tile it put in my kitchen.

 

[Dakota00]

^^ Well atleast you know what you're getting into. Post pics when you're done!

 

[duneslider]

I use spectralock pro and a few different urethane grouts regularly and don't find them to be any more work than regular sanded grout, different technique but not more work really.

Now, 100% solids epoxy is a lot more work.

 

[Jack Olsen]

My suggestion would be to change your mind about light grout. There's no substitute for a color that can not be stained in the first place. Then you don't have to seal it or ever worry about it.

I'm not sure what SapesOfIndia means when he says ceramic tile needs to be sealed. In my experience, glazed tiles (being non-porous) do not need to be sealed. They're wash-and-wear. Unglazed tiles should be sealed. The difference between ceramic and porcelain is that porcelain is harder.

I believe people tend to overthink this for a garage. I used the cheapest tiles I could find. I used the basic thinset and the basic grout. My floor has been durable and essentially no-maintenance for over five years now. I'm very happy with it, and the total cost was under $500, including the tools.

Back in 2008:

Later:

No concerns with jack stands, jacks, tools or anything like that. (Welding slag is the only thing that will leave a mark.)

2013:

Here's my maintenance and cleaning routine: I sweep the place out occasionally with a leaf blower. When I spill oil, grease, paint, stripper (whatever), I wipe it up with a paper towel or a rag. When there's too much grease/dirt over too broad an area, I've hit it with some household cleaner and a rag. It cleans up very easily, unlike concrete (which absorbs fluids and also generates dust).

 

[duneslider]

The only caution I would add is that there is a big difference between southern california where it doesn't freeze and other parts of the world that experience freeze thaw. Its all about risk, some like to gamble and others don't.

I've seen too many failures to gamble with my money.

 

[Jack Olsen]

That's a good point, Duneslider. I get extreme heat, here -- but no freeze/thaw cycles at all.

 

[bdamico]

You're very lucky there are some real tile pros here to give good advice, along with others who have done it themselves.