help me decide wich multimeter functions i need!

[dgoodsy]

It does all of the above. Click on the link for the DM-45 manual.
https://greenlee-cdn.ebizcdn.com/media/MA5686 DM Multimeter Data Sheet.pdf

Does this meter read true-RMS? I'm assuming not since the manual mentions nothing about it. Not really a deal breaker but it would be a nice feature I think.

This is the meter I have. It's not very expensive, but it's feature rich and very well rated among low cost meters. It also has a handy warning beeper if you hook up the leads wrong. I would like to get myself a Fluke one day, but for now this one works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=mastech+multimeter

I will look into mastech offerings as well. Looks like my holidays are going to be full of multimeter investigations, too many options! Or I will just pick one and go with it.

well ..I don't know where to begin , if you just read the specs the power probe doesn't look that amazing, the thing is when you use it, it actually saves a lot of time and fiddling with the multimeter and guesswork .

the best things are simple, 12v+ or - at the tip with the push of a button .

tip voltage and polarity reading with sound and light alert .

there are youtube videos with a lot more detail , but let just say when I need to work on a bike or car I don't go to a multimeter anymore.

I watched a few youtube videos, looks handy but im not sure I want to pay that much more for that functionality. Will have to think about it.

 

[Cope]

Does this meter read true-RMS? I'm assuming not since the manual mentions nothing about it. Not really a deal breaker but it would be a nice feature I think.

Come on, it's a $50 meter!

 

[dgoodsy]

I know I know. The Uni-t meters I'm considering are true rms.

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[skruft]

I have several multimeters but it is more than I need. As an amateur I only use voltage and resistance settings often, with very occasional use of capacitance and rarely anything else. For amperage I generally use a clamp meter. For temperature I use an IR meter, a great invention that is close enough for my purposes.

In my kitchen drawer I have the free DMM from HF, which reads the same as my Fluke meter when I compare them. I use it for quick things like checking a regular alkaline battery. It has lasted around two years so far. I also have a high quality tester just for batteries.

 

[6PTsocket]

I have several multimeters but it is more than I need. As an amateur I only use voltage and resistance settings often, with very occasional use of capacitance and rarely anything else. For amperage I generally use a clamp meter. For temperature I use an IR meter, a great invention that is close enough for my purposes.

In my kitchen drawer I have the free DMM from HF, which reads the same as my Fluke meter when I compare them. I use it for quick things like checking a regular alkaline battery. It has lasted around two years so far. I also have a high quality tester just for batteries.

Amazing how many of us with good meters grab that HF freebie a lot of the time. I compared the HF to my 4.5 digit, .05% basic DC accuracy, with NI S T calibration certificate agInst the HF and it was quite close. The ohms range is annoying with about .7-1 ohms as a starting point that does not seem to be in the probe leads. A heavy jumper at the banana jacks would not zero it out.

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[Slednut]

I use a multimeter at work a lot. Whatever meter is decided on getting a second set of leads and installing clips on them makes using the meter easier. I sometimes clip to reference and use the probe for measuring. Also getting clips with Bed-Of-Nails makes testing easier.

 

[Citation]

I'm going to second (8th, 9th?) the Brymen based meters. I've had two Greenlees that are Brymen based plus a Brymen Amprobe. All great meters. I own a few Fluke meters and they are "the best" but the Brymen is really great and only lacking in one area, it doesn't have a touch hold feature like the better Flukes. Touch-hold is a great feature. Turn it on, look where you are touching the meter probes and wait for the beep. Take the probes away THEN look at the reading. It lets you keep your eyes on the job while capturing the reading. If the smaller Brymen meters (see my link below) had that feature they would be my absolute go to recommendation for most buyers. Fluke only includes touch hold on the 170 and better meters. The 100-120 series meters don't include this feature.

Note that Brymen sells to many brands. Here is a Matco Brymen. I've seen versions of this meter going for under $50 used on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matco-Tools...mH61ZxRaH7NUh6fm583AU%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
Another great thing about the Brymen (and most Flukes newer than the mid 90s) is the very fast continuity tester. Slow continuity testers (and to a lesser extent slow auto ranging) really **** when you are trying to quickly test many pins/wires for contact.

If you don't mind the size, the Fluke 27 meters (very big, somewhat basic feature set) can be had for under $50 on ebay. Good accuracy and these do have touch hold. Continuity tester is slowish like the older Fluke 73 meters. Still, if it stops working (mine is 26 years old and works great) you can always use it as a brick!

 

[driftpin]

Working on motorcycles, I use a continuity function a lot on my vintage stuff. I like to hear the noise demonstrating continuity, easier to monitor than a DMM readout.

The penny as a heat sink for getting a more-comparative material from-which to read is a good idea.

Another 'penny trick' is to use a narrow olive bottle half-filled w/water. Place it in your freezer, let it freeze, and throw a penny on-top of the ice. If your freezer ever has a power outage that would last long-enough to cause food to spoil, the ice will thaw and the penny will end up resting on the bottom. Even if you are away from home and the power is out for a good period of time, and comes back on, you will know.

 

[richfinn]

Did you get a meter?

I only work on cars (for a living)and the odd household job (DIY)

This is my list of must have features

In addition to Volts/Amps/Ohms obviously

1. Backlight (must have)

2. Beeper for continuity

3. Min/Max record feature (great for volt dropping circuits)

4. Fold out stand/bail or magnetic hanger so you can see the screen with both hands occupied!!.

5. bar graph is nice to have for fast changing signals sometimes

6. Diode test

I don't ever use temp/RPM or dwell angle despite having them ��

Occasionally I will use the millisecond feature for fuel injectors if I don't have live data on a scan tool, or can't be bothered to get the oscilloscope.

Flukes are nice to use because they keep the control panel simple and they are pretty robust in the hands of mechanics and electricians (you will drop it eventually)

I have a Raytek IR temp gun for working on cars so never use the K probe

 

[6PTsocket]

Did you get a meter?

I only work on cars (for a living)and the odd household job (DIY)

This is my list of must have features

In addition to Volts/Amps/Ohms obviously

1. Backlight (must have)

2. Beeper for continuity

3. Min/Max record feature (great for volt dropping circuits)

4. Fold out stand/bail or magnetic hanger so you can see the screen with both hands occupied!!.

5. bar graph is nice to have for fast changing signals sometimes

6. Diode test

I don't ever use temp/RPM or dwell angle despite having them

Occasionally I will use the millisecond feature for fuel injectors if I don't have live data on a scan tool, or can't be bothered to get the oscilloscope.

Flukes are nice to use because they keep the control panel simple and they are pretty robust in the hands of mechanics and electricians (you will drop it eventually)

I have a Raytek IR temp gun for working on cars so never use the K probe

Those infrared guns can be wildly inaccurate, depending on the reflectivity of the surface bing read. It is called emmisivity. There is an adjustmemt for it on some guns but the procedure is to make the gun reading match a contact thermometer.That is sort of self defeating. Basically, they like to read off a dark dull surface. I tried to check cooking oil temp with the infrared and checked it against a thermocouple thermometer with a calibration certificate for plus or minus 0.7 degrees F. The infrara red was off by almost 100 degrees. It reads much closer in other tests. The surface being measured is a huge factor with these IR guns.

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[Jazzman442]

I have been in the electronic's business for many many years. I use several meters. I have one HF free meter for crappy wet and oil measurements. under hood of cars etc. I also have a very accurate one for electronic's where I need accuracy and point readings that very a few milivolts. The only thing I don't have is a clamp meter. They are to big and will get one some day but I don't need to high voltage stuff. Some one said to not over think this.. They are so right....

what is your need for a meter?

 

[rlitman]

...You raise a good point Zeke, a IR thermometer would likely better suit my needs as opposed to a contact type thermocouple. I'm guessing a thermocouple is kind of a pain to use to check vent temps and the like?

Looks like I should look at IR thermometers as well.

An IR thermometer is worthless for checking vent temps other than to know if the AC is working at all or not. For diagnostic purposes, you'll want the thermocouple.

Also, for 99% of the people HERE (which is already a small fraction of the population), a 6000 count meter is more than accurate enough for everything you would possibly need. I have a 10,000 count meter next to me on my desk, and it is overkill for just about everything I could use it for.

OTOH, 2000 count meters are just plain ****.

 

[anurag1990]

i have a fluke 101. Its my first multimeter and I am happy to have it. Basic but great for DIY.