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Help me design my welding table.

starting

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Sep 24, 2009
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133
I have saved the Ibeams shown below from the recycler. Like everyone I want to build the best most useful table I can but only want to use these for the structure. I will buy the top eventually when I come across a good deal on plate. The beams are about 8 feet long.

My setup:
This table will go in the center and can be accessed from all four sides. My garage is longer then it is wide with its width being 17 feet.

My work:
Lately I am working primarily on my house. I have a wood 4x8 work bench in the garage currently that this would replace. I need it to cut plywood, cut drywall, and in the future work on cars and weld.

My goals:
I want to have the most usable table I can have. I was originally thinking of making two tables 2 feet by 8 feet that I could clamp together to form a full size 4x8 table. With only having three pieces of steel this idea no longer works.

I was going to go into even more detail with ideas and thoughts but was thinking I would throw out what I have and see what you guys come up with. There's so much innovate stuff on this site I don't want to limit myself.

I wouldn't mind buying more material if someone had a really great idea.

 
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stage20

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Nov 5, 2013
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pcola FL
are you going to use this for storage for welding tools and supplies or is this strictly a table?

can never have enough shelves.

i use round stock bent and welded to leg similar to a paper towel holder. holds all my grinding and cutoff wheels so i can keep an eye on stock couple other round stock bars bent up like a towel rack that hold all my c clamps.

just a few off the top of my head.
 
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starting

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I was planning for little no storage but will have to use idea for c clamp storage. I also may hang grinders under the table. I have a free standing welding cart.
 

f150skidoo

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When two things i did when i made my welding table was add 2" receivers so you can mount a vise that removable to some 2" tubing. I also drilled a **** load of 5/8's holes into my 1/2" plate so you can use clamps with dogs attached to them and you can clamps anywhere you want on the table.

This is the company that originally came up with the idea that me and a pile of people on weldingweb took and made DIY versions.
http://www.stronghandtools.com/buildpro/
 

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sberry

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Too big is a problem. The ideal small shop welding table is about 3x5. 2 ft is too narrow and you don't need it 8 ft long and this makes it awkward to walk around. A man can reach across 3 ft.
 

Engine

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Agree with sberry. I recently built one that's 4x5 and it is bigger than I need most of the time.

The I-beams will definitely make for a sturdy table. I assume the plan is to use them for the top of the frame and weld the plate on for the tabletop? Obviously, you will need a few more for legs, etc. if you intend to make a 4x8 size table.
 

zkling

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What type of welding will you be doing? Seated or standing? You may want to consider that and how you will brace the bottom, no fun in trying to chase the pedal over and under a bar.
 

rayh

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Apr 23, 2014
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I've been following this thread, I want to do a small welding table too. It's always recommended to use 1/2" steel top or more. Can't I get away with a 1/4" steel top. I'm a wantabee welder, I have a small Linc. 110v Mig and a Victor O-A. Anything big and I'll take to someone who knows what they're doing. I'm tired of working off the floor.
 

sberry

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Mine are 1/4 and its fine. I actually like it not too thick as most clamp ups are on the edges and the piece to piece clamp is similar to thickness and don't have to re adjust.
 

sberry

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O have done this dam near every way you can, Simple is good, most holes and features are not needed for general work and in fact are in the way more than they help. I put a hole in if I needed it. Very rare to never.
 

Strouty

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Mine are 1/4 and its fine. I actually like it not too thick as most clamp ups are on the edges and the piece to piece clamp is similar to thickness and don't have to re adjust.

I think you could make due with a welding table that was made out of a used plastic patio table with a cardboard top.
 
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starting

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These are a lot of great links. I plan to sit most of the time when I weld. I am thinking of making it a bit smaller then I originally had planned.
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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I've been following this thread, I want to do a small welding table too. It's always recommended to use 1/2" steel top or more. Can't I get away with a 1/4" steel top. I'm a wantabee welder, I have a small Linc. 110v Mig and a Victor O-A. Anything big and I'll take to someone who knows what they're doing. I'm tired of working off the floor.

Sure, properly braced you could make a welding table out of sheet metal. :thumbup:
 

WhoWhatNow

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Feb 22, 2011
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Collegeville, PA
I've been following this thread, I want to do a small welding table too. It's always recommended to use 1/2" steel top or more. Can't I get away with a 1/4" steel top. I'm a wantabee welder, I have a small Linc. 110v Mig and a Victor O-A. Anything big and I'll take to someone who knows what they're doing. I'm tired of working off the floor.

Another option for you would be Harbor Freight's rip off of the Nomad table.

http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-steel-welding-table-61369.html

Change out the hardware and it is a decent table for light work.
 

dr_clyde

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Jan 7, 2009
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Holland, MI
If all you want is a metal surface to ground the work to, then any thickness will work. If you want a sturdy clamping and fixture surface, then the thicker the better.

The increase in mass will pay back in several ways. It's less likely to move if you are pulling on stuff in the vise, it won't warp as easily, spatter won't stick as easily, it can act as an anvil for light stuff, you can thread holes with more engagement, you can grind them flat, the list goes on.

The marginal increase in cost is easily outweighed by the utility. I bought a 48" x 120" piece of 3/4" thick plate for less than $600, new. Look around scrap yards. All kinds of cool plates that have been scrapped.
 

sberry

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I would sell the beams or find a place I needed beam. Its getting harder to come by nice pieces. A couple sticks of light angle would do the same thing in a small shop table and would leave it where a couple guys could skid it around if you wanted to move it.
 

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sberry

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Mine are terrible. The only reason I don't fix them is they work and it would be expense and I am the only one knows its junk.

These are really old and I wanted to or have added more hammer hangers. You can see in pic 3 I move an outlet and fixed a couple clamp hangers.

The top was something I found had 4 legs on a 1/4 plate and should have moved one to make it square. I think we tipped it from the scrap yard on to the floor. There are additions to it, was too small and we literally clamped pieces on it and tacked on as needed, some of it barely sits there and not designed for sledge work or we add a post for rig ups.
We literally added any holes or slots or pieces as needed, make anything real special we come across. If I was building new would make only a couple basic changes to the top, not worth it to us now but would be free in a new build except for a couple plasma cuts. and could be incorporated in to the cutting grate.
Some or all of the features are add ons I mine, its a cobble but the size and shape are basic. I would integrate but for general work would hafgve a hard time getting away from these dimensions. There are some specialists that have special demands but for general work and as use as the bench,,,, not only welding but where space is tight or even not,,, it is the bench. I don't want dirt or spills thru the top. Want to use common clamps.
 

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sberry

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In automotive or repair benches along walls are ok but for fab the island is ideal. Put the vise in a bench along the wall, I got another mount for mine and it never moves, do not need a receiver for it. Bolted to the floor and a place to set a tool or drill.
But the fab bench I like clean and like to walk around and like to reach across. I want 5 ft long, it allows the width of a common sheet on top plus a little. If its too wide you find the need to walk to get a tape measure you left or every clamp or wrench.
If a guy works on bigger as a routine then its a different matter but anything bigger I rig up as needed. Its not worth the cost and the planning for every possibility. You want the 99.5 % of the work that is general as easy as you can get it and do what you got to do for the rest of it.
Mine are 1/4 cause it was free and there at the time, if I had to buy it 3/8 and if it was cheap 1/2. Easy to drill or plasma cut and weld framing or attachments to.
 

y5e06

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Dec 5, 2012
Messages
51
Location
Austin, TX
For these movable tables, what kinds of casters are being used? I would figure locking casters would be needed. Would locking casters on all four keep the table nice and stable from bumping and such as you work on/around it? maybe just the two?
 
OP
S

starting

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Sep 24, 2009
Messages
133
I picked some more freebies today. I also got a bowling ball to build the table with two rotors I saw on the site. With all the input I'm thinking of making the table 3ftx6ft. I will be putting in receivers for the two vices and also make up mounts for my grinders.

 

RPFletcher2

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Sep 24, 2013
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73
Location
Northport, Florida
I just fabricated a welding bench for my garage. went with 3/8" plate 3'X5' and it's the perfect size. made the frame and legs out of 1.5" tubing and braces out of 1.5"angle. got 325lb locking casters from tractor supply and added a nice vise in the corner. so it doubles as a movable workbench too! i'll probably add a plate below for some extra storage. seems like wasted space if i don't.
Good luck!

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