Help me find a fully broached 1/4" x 1/4" deep socket?

[zip_tie]

Ok, I've been searching, and have yet to find what I'm looking for. I need a fully broached 1/4" deep socket. Shouldn't be that hard. But so far I've struck out. Do you have a brand where you can confirm the 1/4" x 1/4" is broached to 1" deep or more? Don't care if it's chrome or black. I'd prefer 6 point over 12, but will take what I can find.

Brands that I've looked at and disqualified:
- vintage: MUSA craftsman model 43573 (bought one, too short)
- new: Capri, Craftsman, Crescent, DeWalt, GearWrench, Tekton (via online specs or reviews)
- unknown age: Armstrong 10-208a, Duralast, Hart, Proto, Wright 2508 (via ebay conversations)

Use case: I have an arbor press with a 1/2" bore and set screw in the ram. I use it for small punches, among other things, but it's hard to keep them straight/vertical. To make gripping them easier, I bought a keyless chuck that has a standard 1/4" hex shaft. However, that shaft is still a bit small in diameter and wobbly in the ram. I'd like to shim it with a 1/4" hex socket and insert the socket into the ram. I need one where the socket bore is around 1" deep, to accommodate the shaft of the chuck.

Thank you for your assistance!

 

[Mr_B]

could you not use a common 1/4" bit holder and mod/chop that to be spacer/sleeve !?
As for a 6 point socket I would expect most taiwan style deeps be full broach (or at least 1"+ deep) all ones I have are .
Could look at carlyle or other house brands in other parts stores and hardware stores if a socket is required .

 

[whateg01]

Many times, the chuck can be unthreaded from the shank and a bolt can be used instead. If you know somebody with a lathe, it's an easy task to make something work

 

[Alcap]

I can’t help you with a socket but like the idea of using a drill chuck to hold pins or punches and whateg01 said about threading a shaft in an old chuck will be another little project that will make pressing easier ! Thanks !

 

[KnurledNut]

How about removing the shank and adding a magnet?
Like this:
http://www.mathews-engineering.com/store/p4/Arbor_Press_Magnetic_Pin_Press_3/8"_Chuck_Tool.html

 

[DGersic]

Get the deepest socket you can easily buy, then cut the shaft shorter to fit it.

 

[Nutria]

How about removing the shank and adding a magnet?
Like this:
http://www.mathews-engineering.com/store/p4/Arbor_Press_Magnetic_Pin_Press_3/8"_Chuck_Tool.html

I made one like that, and it works well for me.

 

[RTM]

How about removing the shank and adding a magnet?
Like this:
http://www.mathews-engineering.com/store/p4/Arbor_Press_Magnetic_Pin_Press_3/8"_Chuck_Tool.html

I tried a DIY version of that idea, and cracked the naked magnet on the first use. Magnet was size of the ram, and slightly larger than the **** end of the chuck.

 

[Nutria]

I tried a DIY version of that idea, and cracked the naked magnet on the first use. Magnet was size of the ram, and slightly larger than the **** end of the chuck.

I've been wondering if/when that would happen with mine. But the metal shielding around the magnet is a millimeter or so proud of the magnet, and that has been enough so far, despite some pretty good pressure being applied. This batch must have used some decent steel for the shields. I have a box of the magnets, so I can replace if need be.

 

[RTM]

But the metal shielding around the magnet is a millimeter or so proud of the magnet, and that has been enough so far,

I think my shields are all short of the height of the magnet, but I wasn’t smart enough to use one for my proof of concept test.

 

[larry_g]

If I may suggest an alternative Get a cheap chuck with a taper mount and then get a 1/2" straight arbor to fit it,
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...ype:Straight--Shank+Diameter:0.5000&action=rs

You can probably find a complete setup on e-bay for cheap.

A lot less messing around and a better more ridged setup.

 

[Snaparxon]

I think a 90's Craftsman socket with "G" stamped on it is what your looking for.

 

[zip_tie]

According to an ebay seller, the “G2” sockets are shallow, not fully broached.

Until I can get a positive ID on a socket, I‘ll look into alternatives. A slightly wider shank (or just a bolt) on the chuck seems like a great option.

 

[Steve_P]

I'm guessing this is just a manufacturing issue that makes it nearly impossible to do in mass production at such a small size because of the aspect ratio of the broach width vs depth. I have a set of 3/8 drive Craftsman deep sockets from the early 2000s; the smallest socket, 3/8 or 7/16 has a shallow broach, a half inch max; the larger sizes switch to nearly full broach depth.

 

[Snaparxon]

According to an ebay seller, the “G2” sockets are shallow, not fully broached.

Until I can get a positive ID on a socket, I‘ll look into alternatives. A slightly wider shank (or just a bolt) on the chuck seems like a great option.

G2 are different I think. Might try a "V" marked socket also. I have 2 14mm's and they are fully braoched

 

[zip_tie]

Well, I solved it for $1.75 and a few minutes with a hacksaw. I unthreaded the hex shank from the chuck, and replaced it with a 2" long 3/8" x 24 fine bolt, with the head hacked off. Fits perfectly and is perfectly snug. Thanks all for your ideas!