Help me find a good wiping finish for WW projects

[moparfreak]

I'm curious if any of you WW around here have a go-to product that you use as a wipe-on poly (or other type of finish) as a topcoat for your woodworking projects. I've used Minwax for a number of years, and I'm curious to see if there's anything out there that's better.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Wip...ethane-Actual-Net-Contents-16-fl-oz/999914303

I like wiping it on, as it gives me a better feel for getting the finish on and perfectly smooth. When I brush on it gets pretty thick and bubbly. Wiping does take more coats to build, so I'd like something that builds up a bit better, I usually need to go 4+ coats to get the build I want.

I do like a finish that brings a bit of honey color out and warms the look of the wood a bit, it doesn't have to be crystal clear. Any suggestions? I've heard good things about General Finishes products but never used...

 

[Davefr]

I make my own:
1 part Boiled Linseed Oil
1 part Turpentine
1 part Gloss Varnish

It provides a wonderful rich finish without that plastic Poly look. It takes several coats but you can stop whenever you get the finish you desire.

This finish is based on the famous Sam Maloof formula.

 

[ARFLY]

I make my own:
1 part Boiled Linseed Oil
1 part Turpentine
1 part Gloss Varnish

It provides a wonderful rich finish without that plastic Poly look. It takes several coats but you can stop whenever you get the finish you desire.

This finish is based on the famous Sam Maloof formula.

Isn't this very similar to Formby's tung oil? What gloss varnish do you use when making this finish?

I usually use the wipe on poly, tung oil or teak oil and apply multiple coats.

 

[Davefr]

Isn't this very similar to Formby's tung oil? What gloss varnish do you use when making this finish?

I prefer real gloss varnish in the formula. (not poly or spar varnish). Real varnish is getting hard to find.

 

[ARFLY]

I prefer real gloss varnish in the formula. (not poly or spar varnish). Real varnish is getting hard to find.

Thanks. I need to stop by Ace tonight and see if if they have it.

 

[snickers muncher]

I made wooden countertops for the kitchen with an undermount sink last year. I used waterlox and it has performed very well in an active kitchen.

 

[moparfreak]

Looks like Wood Whisperer did a very thorough look at several well known options:

 

[paulsomlo]

I made wooden countertops for the kitchen with an undermount sink last year. I used waterlox and it has performed very well in an active kitchen.

Another vote for Waterlox - it's essentially a varnish, goes on easy (you can use a rag), levels very well, easy to apply. Doesn't look like plastic and warms up light colored woods.

 

[scubadoober]

I am a fan of danish oil. You can always topcoat with poly if you change your mind.

 

[derosa]

Any cribs I've made were finished with Tried and True brand danish oil, i prefer their matte finish.
For a glossier finish that's strong Bush oil is my favorite. I'm doing a dining room set and will use it for the table and chair finish https://www.lakeshorehardwoods.com/product-page/bush-oil

 

[R_einan]

Have you considered Shellac? It pads well if you have a steady hand and patience, and you can cut it with denatured alcohol if it’s going on too thick.

You can also cut poly with mineral spirits to thin it so it wipes or brushes easier.

 

[Treeman]

Google "Bob Flexner wiping varnish" for an eye opening education on this subject. Here is a good primer: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/the_basics_of_wiping_varnish2/ ...(there are 2 pages)

What you will learn is that a lot of the off the shelf products do not contain exotic things like Tung Oil, but are just thinned down varnish that you could make yourself.

Some contend that polyurethane type varnishes yellow more than conventional alkyd varnish. The guys at Sawmill Creek forum are goo goo eyed with Pratt&Lambert #38 varnish to make a wiping finish.

Here are a few more links for learning:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?150658-Sam-Maloof-s-finish
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?198179-Non-yellowing-wipe-on-varnish

I've been using the Pratt&Lambert #38 thinned WAY down successfully as a wipe on finish. One of the best techniques I ever learned.

 

[cheechi]

Some good suggestions in this thread.

Can I also give another suggestion, a foam brush makes fewer bubbles with typical poly finish.

 

[marineman]

Depending on the project and how invested I am I do a lot of danish oil either store bought or make my own. On the few occasions I'm looking for more build I use general finishes arm r seal. I have no problems with the arm r seal and think it looks nice when that's the look I'm going for but if you put 2 pieces of furniture next to each other I couldn't tell you which one was minwax or which one was arm r seal.

Maybe try a shellac finish some time and see how you like it, looks real nice to me but each finish has their strong suits and isn't made for every project.

 

[orangeblood]

I make my own:
1 part Boiled Linseed Oil
1 part Turpentine
1 part Gloss Varnish

It provides a wonderful rich finish without that plastic Poly look. It takes several coats but you can stop whenever you get the finish you desire.

This finish is based on the famous Sam Maloof formula.

+1 for making your own (although i prefer sating poly - dont think it creates a "plastic" finish).

making your own enables you to control the penetration and thickness of the finish. it is very easy to mix, apply and clean up. once you try it you wont buy store bought rub on finish again.

i think danish, formbys, et al are trade names that are some combination of turpentine, linseed and varnish/poly.

 

[tncatadjuster]

Deft water based so easy to work with, nice results.

 

[moparfreak]

I'm definitely going to try this, as when I watched that Wood Whisperer video, he applied the wiping varnishes with a foam brush and got much better / thicker coats that I get using a rag to wipe on.

 

[6PTsocket]

Google "Bob Flexner wiping varnish" for an eye opening education on this subject. Here is a good primer: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/the_basics_of_wiping_varnish2/ ...(there are 2 pages)

What you will learn is that a lot of the off the shelf products do not contain exotic things like Tung Oil, but are just thinned down varnish that you could make yourself.

Some contend that polyurethane type varnishes yellow more than conventional alkyd varnish. The guys at Sawmill Creek forum are goo goo eyed with Pratt&Lambert #38 varnish to make a wiping finish.

Here are a few more links for learning:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?150658-Sam-Maloof-s-finish
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?198179-Non-yellowing-wipe-on-varnish

I've been using the Pratt&Lambert #38 thinned WAY down successfully as a wipe on finish. One of the best techniques I ever learned.

What did you cut the #38 with and how much and did you add anything else? Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Treeman]

I use real mineral spirits, not one of the "substitutes" or "safer" paint thinners.

I start out at about 40% thinner: 60% varnish, but sometimes experiment +/- 10%. I don't add anything else. I try to avoid that thick, built up plastic-y look. It seems that I use about 3 to 5 applications. I rub the surface down with various things between applications to remove nubs. I've tried newspaper, cleaned very fine steel wool, scratchless Scotch Brite type pads, even super fine sandpaper( 1000 grit wet/dry I think). Always followed by a tack rag before the next coat.

 

[6PTsocket]

I use real mineral spirits, not one of the "substitutes" or "safer" paint thinners.

I start out at about 40% thinner: 60% varnish, but sometimes experiment +/- 10%. I don't add anything else. I try to avoid that thick, built up plastic-y look. It seems that I use about 3 to 5 applications. I rub the surface down with various things between applications to remove nubs. I've tried newspaper, cleaned very fine steel wool, scratchless Scotch Brite type pads, even super fine sandpaper( 1000 grit wet/dry I think). Always followed by a tack rag before the next coat.

Thanks for the info.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[rlitman]

I use real mineral spirits, not one of the "substitutes" or "safer" paint thinners...

Good point. The "safer" paint thinners are absolutely worthless for thinning any sort of finish. But they are actually useful for post-finish cleanup (like brush washing). Stick to the real OMS for cleaning unfinished surfaces or thinning.

Also, in cold weather, VM&P naphtha can be used in place of OMS.