Help Me Help Me Garage Journal - Rafter Insulation Fail

[brettrarnold]

Alright GJ.. long time listener/reader, first-time poster. Yes get your virgin jokes out now.

I need help. Yes i screwed up and something fierce.. My father in law said i should insulate my garage when i bought the house but like all young go-hards i didn't listen. Well, 4 years went by before i realized the error of my ways.

Last spring i installed continuous soffit vents and ridge vents, installed the styrofoam air channeling baffles and then finished with r-19 24" wide insulation (stapled on the edge of the joists).

My problem is now the staples on the insulation and rafters aren't as good of friends as they were when i first introduced them. They have had a number of arguments over the last year and seem to be parting ways.



Ok Ok jokes aside I'm not sure what do. My thought was to install some sort of plastic vapor barrier over everything to keep everyone nice and tight? or maybe just try to restaple (i have doubt in this method).

Has anyone run into this issue before and what did they do? I have a bunch of stuff hanging in the rafters so it is going to be a pain regardless but i want something to last. My garage is a small 2 car garage if that helps with recommendations.

Thanks,
Brett

 

[larry4406]

Insulation support wires

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-16-in-Insulation-Support-100-Qty-IS16-R100/100375163

oh.... welcome to the site!

 

[Kaizen]

Man up and start stapling again. Get a hammer stapler and make sure you use the right size staples. T50 I think. I’d do a vapor barrier as well


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[Outlander]

First, welcome to the GJ. Don't be shy, post more pictures of your garage & contents and develop a rapport so our virgin jokes are appropriately targeted. Please read all the threads about "kids these days" since it appears your FIL probably has input we would enjoy.

As for your problem, I'm no expert (my garage is not insulated) but I'd like to know why this happened so the repair prevents further issues.

 

[Todd.Brock]

I would try to figure out why they failed- something fall from above? If not restaple and use some hangers. I would not use vapor barrier as the Kraft paper face is already a vapor barrier.


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[GoodStuff]

Joists will move with expansion and contraction, and so simply restapling will not get you the desired result. A 6 mil plastic vapor barrier has the double benefit of providing a true vapor barrier, as well as the rigidity to hold up the insulation. Keep it tight to the joist as you install

 

[Shiftless]

Exposed paper on your insulation is a fire hazard. I bet there is a warning printed on the vapor barrier saying it must be covered. How about Sheetrock instead of plastic (which will also burn)?

 

[paparodgers]

not to wish you more work but a re-staple will have same result eventually. House wrap is good but in my humble opinion if the area is not so large then sheath it with OSB for a long term solution. The OSB would also help eliminate moisture laden air drafts.

Good luck

Greg

 

[OccupantRJ]

Get an electric stapler and put two staples in an X for each attachment point, or cut small squares from cereal boxes and staple them up to prevent tear out. The load is too concentrated right at the staple and pulls through. At least it is cheap.

 

[bczygan]

As mentioned above, that shouldn't be exposed. Drywall, taped and mudded is required for fire protection and to hold the insulation in place. 1/2" lightweight will do.

In any case, I would slash the paper facing and install a taped Visqueen vapor barrier first.

Bill

 

[brettrarnold]

So i think the insulation hangers are my best bet followed by the vapor barrior if nessy. I would restaple but the staples pulled out of the original kraft paper so i dont feel confident in this option even if i had a hammer stapler.

I will get another post in here as this was by far the most helpful time i have spent all evening. Thanks All GJ!

-Brett

 

[mm08822]

The weight of the fiberglass and/or the recovery depth of it can be the causes for the blowouts.

Insulation hangers will destroy the kraft paper vapor barrier. They would be good if this was an unfaced application.

If you ever put up further vapor barrier you will have to slit the kraft paper vb as you cant trap moisture between two vb's. It can lead to mold otherwise.

Restaple the vapor barrier at the flanges and increase the number of staples installing them parallel to the rafters.

Then you can staple up to the rafters in zig-zag fashion, string or light steel wire to further support the insulation from rafter to rafter. Upon reaching the end of the bay, come back in the opposite direction to end up with "x"'s supporting the insulation.

 

[Dirtydan69]

Drywall

 

[acer66]

Exposed paper on your insulation is a fire hazard. I bet there is a warning printed on the vapor barrier saying it must be covered. How about Sheetrock instead of plastic (which will also burn)?

Drywall

 

[jimp]

If you are going to leave it exposed. Re-staple and run a string zigzag for support, about ever 12"-18"

 

[CombatNinja]

Insulation hangers have a very good chance of crushing those janky styrofoam baffles you already put in place. If they have enough tension to push that R-19 up and compress it, they will probably also do the same to those baffles. Just drywall it with 1/2" and be done with it. There is not a municipality in this country where having that craft paper exposed is up to code.

 

[MrSurly]

Let's back up just a bit... What sort of "styrofoam air channeling baffles" did you install? Are they providing a vapor barrier themselves? I'm struck by the idea that you already have two VBs in place, causing the 'glas to retain moisture, which would explain its current tendency to detach.
More info on the styro?
Is the fiberglas *wet*?
Is any of the kraft paper or the wood stained?