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Help me identify a Craftsman Drill press

riggs1117

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This press is for sale at a flea market locally for $50. When I was checking it out, the old guy behind the counter said I could take it home for $40. Unfortunately I did not have any cash on me, just a debit card as I had no intention of stopping at the flea Market. In fact i didn't even know there was a flea market there. Any how here's the pictures, some are poor quality. I would appreciate any help. Plan on going back next weekend and buying it.
 
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riggs1117

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he plugged it in and it turned smooth.

after some google checking I believe it is a King Seeley. Similar to the one in this video but with slight differences
 

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tool_scrounge

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Craftsman model 80 is what it looks like to me (late 1940's I suspect). I prefer the model 100 with all ball bearings. But for wood use it would be fine if in good shape.
 

bisley45

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Yep its a model 80 I have one just like it with the Dunlap motor and all. Mine was made in 1947. for 40 bucks I would be all over that.






Brian Milner
 

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nehog

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Model 100 I think. The 80 was virtually identical but has a swivel table. The 100's table was fixed. Worth 40 probably. WOrth more if it works good!
 

Outlawmws

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Model 100 I think. The 80 was virtually identical but has a swivel table. The 100's table was fixed. Worth 40 probably. WOrth more if it works good!

You're confusing the 80 with the 150.


The 80 is smaller (13-1/2" vs 15 for the 100/150), had a smaller 2-1/4" column, and I'm pretty sure the tilt table was available for the same time frames; early 80's had it, later ones concurrent with the 150 didn't.

Maybe I need to do a Craftsman DP ID thread similar to the Craftsman Vise ID thread... Al I need is more time... :willy_nil
 

bluebolt

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Outlaw is right it's a 80. 100's and 150's had a 3 spoke wheel,, the 80's had that sliding 2 spoke.
 

Bill Ramsey

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For $40 you're not gambling the farm away, but for a little more money and searching you can find a 100/150 and you'll get 1) ball bearings not bushings (as I think these 80 have), 2) more capacity (15 1/2" vs. 13 1/2"), 3) slightly more powerful motor (1/2 hp vs. 1/3 hp), and 4) a depth stop mechanism (important if you're doing much woodworking with it). And you might luck into a tilt table (which I understood to be an option when they were sold new). (I have a 100 (benchtop) and a 150 (floor) but not an 80). The heads on the 100/150 are larger, as is the pole diameter (2 3/4"), so it's overall a larger unit. I could see the 80 (benchtop) having a place on the end of the workbench where the jobs are light and space is at a premium.
 
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Outlawmws

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For $40 you're not gambling the farm away, but for a little more money and searching you can find a 100/150 and you'll get 1) ball bearings not bushings (as I think these 80 have), 2) more capacity (15 1/2" vs. 13 1/2"), 3) slightly more powerful motor (1/2 hp vs. 1/3 hp), and 4) a depth stop mechanism (important if you're doing much woodworking with it). And you might luck into a tilt table (which I understood to be an option when they were sold new). (I have a 100 (benchtop) and a 150 (floor) but not an 80). The heads on the 100/150 are larger, as is the pole diameter (2 3/4"), so it's overall a larger unit. I could see the 80 (benchtop) having a place on the end of the workbench where the jobs are light and space is at a premium.

Nope, the 80's still have 4 sets of BB's you start getting into 1 set and bushings in the Sub craftsman branding, and I think at least one of the lower ones are all bushings.
 

BFBOB

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Isn't Dunlap a "sub-Craftsman" brand?
I know, for instance, "Sears" branded wrenches are a far, far cry from Craftsman.
 

Outlawmws

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Yes, but this DP is Craftsman, the MOTOR is Dunlap and the motors were optional, and you could supply your own, buy a lower (or higher) grade (cheaper) motor like was done here, or let sears provide the Craftsman motor option...
 
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riggs1117

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Thanks for all the replies and help. I would say I work more with metal than wood and may hold off for something with a little more power. I get a bonus check this Friday so I might just go back and buy it for a spare in the future.
 

BFBOB

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Yes, but this DP is Craftsman, the MOTOR is Dunlap and the motors were optional, and you could supply your own, buy a lower (or higher) grade (cheaper) motor like was done here, or let sears provide the Craftsman motor option...

Right you are. I went back to the OP for a closer look - the picture is kinda shaky, and I thought the DP was Dunlap too.
 
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riggs1117

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This Delta is on Craigslist near me. Do you think it would do a better job drilling through metal? I will mostly be working on rifles (stamped AK's). The seller did not post an asking price. What do you think would be reasonable?
 

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jakemac

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HomeCraft was Delta/Rockwell's homeowner brand (like Cman's Dunlap). Still, a decent built machine, but not as tough as a full Delta. That DP would be fine for the home garage if it has a speed reducer on it (you mentioned that you wanted to drill metal). For wood it would be fine.
 

Outlawmws

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That's a better DP but only marginally.

If your holes are small you're probably OK, but over 1/4" or so (depending on motor speed) it starts getting marginal, at about 3/8 dia drills , and for 1/2 its probably too fast.

You can get a slower motor, or different pulley's if the clear the housings, or do what I did and use a treadmill motor for full variability of speeds.
 

Bill Ramsey

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Nope, the 80's still have 4 sets of BB's you start getting into 1 set and bushings in the Sub craftsman branding, and I think at least one of the lower ones are all bushings.

Thanks Outlaw - I was confusing the Craftsman 80 with what I've read in the old catalogs about the Dunlap.

To the OP, sorry I should have re-read my research before commenting. The ball bearings would make me see the Craftsman 80 more favorably as a light duty benchtop press if the depth stop isn't critical for you.

Hey Outlaw - looking forward to your Craftsman DP ID thread. :bounce:
 

Outlawmws

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How much work was it to fit a treadmill motor?

Depends on the motor you get and what else the treadmill hands you.

I have several treadmill motors around but the one I used had an SAE sized shaft so the pulley was easy. Many have a metric shaft, so may be a little trickier to find a suitable pulley,

That one also had a choke (looks like a oversize door bell transformer) and I kept it in the circuit, so my control box is bigger than I'd like...

Here is a link to the project, any questions fire away:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159224
 
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