Help me out on this grinder situation.

[Southern]

Edit: I bought the baldor. Scroll down for pictures and gimme some advice.

So I'm standing here looking at a pair of Grinders. One is a 1/3 397.** block motor missing the glass, the other is a 1/2 Baldor that needs a cord and a guard. Looks like both are aboit 50 bucks. Gimme some insight here which makes more sense if either.

Thanx!

 

[Major Ramifications]

I like 'em both, but I'd have to take a chance on the Baldor.

 

[Southern]

I cant for the life of me find a part number on the Baldor. Is it easy enough to buy one of those guards? Easier than finding the glass for the craftsman?

 

[WhoWhatNow]

That Baldor will outlast you. I love mine and it is only a 1/3hp. You should still be able to get parts. $50 is a great price for that grinder too.

 

[fortson]

i would offer $80.00 for both. if they come with the stands that's a steal in my opinion. fix them both and sell the one you dont want. if he wont take 80 give him the 100 he wants.

edit- he wants 50 for both? no brainer.

 

[91bronc300]

At that price, buy everything in his garage.

 

[ShadowRuleZ]

The correct answer is both.

 

[GarageEnvy]

^^ THIS ^^

If they were anywhere near me, you wouldn't have the problem. Offer $80 for both, take your savings and put a multitool belt grinder on the side missing the guard (if it fits). Then you won't have to worry about the replacement part.

 

[Joe B.]

I don't think you will find the guard but like everyone said, I would get them both. It kind of looks like the Baldor has a factory-made stand on it. I would pay $50 just for the stand.

I would just put a buffing wheel on one side of the Baldor and call it complete. You can then put a whatever grit if wheels you prefer in the remaining three locations.

Neither of them appear to have shields but you can always wear a face shield.

 

[Joe B.]

Also, while you are at it offer another $50 for the drill press.

 

[Outlawmws]

I'd take the Baldor if only one is an option, but both are good deals (both are **** worthy, the Baldor would cause so much suckage there might be wind damage...)

Baldor is still in business, and I'd bet you could get the guard replaced.

 

[drb007]

Baldor over the Craftsman, but I'd also just buy both. I'd even give him the $100. I have a problem though, so you might not want to follow me...

 

[bczygan]

Buy them both quickly...before we find out where they are...

 

[fury9]

You can easily get the glass from any glass shop. Just give them the measurements.

 

[Southern]

Alright so I bought the Baldor.

The story is kind of funny, because I have been shopping for weeks for a block motor 397. After so long of not seeing anything on the craigslist, I was absentmindedly scoffing at an overpriced ad for a little giant ladder when I saw the f*in grinder in the background of the photo. Called dude, told him he wants too much for the ladder but I'd buy the grinder, he said cool, I drove down there and saw the baldor once I got there.

In the end he took 50 for the baldor but wanted $100 for the craftsman (my prediction in OP was a little off). He tried to let me take it for 75, but at that point I had already loaded the baldor so I didn't happen to need a bench grinder, I already owned one. I told him to sit on it for a while and if he ever wanted to take $50.00 for it to call me. Was it too stubborn?

Anyway. Here's the grinder I bought. I've restored plenty of tools before so I have a mind to take this thing all down, electro bath and blast it, paint and clear it and try Baldor to see if I can't buy another collar for it. I'm brand new to this antique bench grinder racket though so hopefully you guys can take a look and tell me: my new Baldor: Done good or dun' goofed?

I've already got a cloth covered 3 prong on the way from sundial for it. What else should this require, and I'm open to suggestions on painting it. That's if I didn't happen to give $50.00 for a piece of junk you guys just tell me to throw out.

Thanx, GJ!

 

[sabercatt]

both

 

[drb007]

Southern,
You chose wisely. I believe you got the more valuable of the two, and for the better price!
I really like old Baldors, and yours will look great redone. Search the grinder thread and you will get some ideas.

 

[davesnothere]

You totally goofed.
Throw it out.
Then PM me directions to your trash can.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Nice score. That stand is probably worth what you paid. I don’t know what you are planning to do with the grinder but a wire wheel on a bench grinder is a beautiful thing. Especially if you restore old machinery. That may save you from having to find a cover.

 

[Southern]

I really appreciate everyone's help and comments in this thread, seriously.

I've already started to break the grinder down and put the parts in the electrobath. The ******** spindle nut (or what is it called?) on the grinder side is stuck solid. No idea how to get it off of there. Also, is there a standard way to lock the spindle up in order to turn the nuts off and replace the wheels? Seems like there should be somewhere I can put a screwdriver or something to keep it from spinning.

Also, this will just be a general DIY grinder for the garage, but I already started using the wire wheel on some metal parts to test, and all the access I can get without the guard on is really great. I guess I just don't like how it looks missing the guard. Looks like some half broken old **** I found on the road, but I have a feeling that will all change once it's stripped and painted.

 

[Davefr]

The ******** spindle nut (or what is it called?) on the grinder side is stuck solid.

Are you sure it's not L.H. threaded? One side is typically R.H. and the other needs to be the opposite. (ie L.H.) Look at the spindle threads to determine the removal direction.

 

[cegreen]

The nut on the right-hand side is a right-hand thread, and the one on the left-hand side is a left hand thread. That way, the shaft's normal rotation tends to keep both nuts from loosening.

If you put wrenches on both nuts at the same time, you can loosen either one, since the nut on the opposite end will get tighter, and will prevent the shaft from rotating.

-Chris

 

[Southern]

Are you sure it's not L.H. threaded? One side is typically R.H. and the other needs to be the opposite. (ie L.H.) Look at the spindle threads to determine the removal direction.

Man I'm retarded. Wailing on the nut going the wrong way with a cheater bar and a hammer.

All seems to be well though.

The grinding wheel has some divits on the corner edge of it, looks like it got shipped or maybe grabbed with a pliers. Is this something to be concerned about when the whole thing gets put back together?

 

[Outlawmws]

Man I'm retarded. Wailing on the nut going the wrong way with a cheater bar and a hammer.

All seems to be well though.

The grinding wheel has some divits on the corner edge of it, looks like it got shipped or maybe grabbed with a pliers. Is this something to be concerned about when the whole thing gets put back together?

One thing you should have for a grinder is a wheel dresser. if the wheel is out of balance you will know it. but a dresser can cure a lot of ills on a bunged wheel.

 

[Southern]

One thing you should have for a grinder is a wheel dresser. if the wheel is out of balance you will know it. but a dresser can cure a lot of ills on a bunged wheel.

Good to know. I'll pick one up right away.

The grinder wheel appears to be balanced and spins perfectly true (the whole thing runs really solid), hopefully the dresser can do a little bit toward making the chips in the wheel a little less hazardous.

 

[Davefr]

The grinding wheel has some divits on the corner edge of it, looks like it got chipped or maybe grabbed with a pliers. Is this something to be concerned about when the whole thing gets put back together?

Yes. I'd put on a new wheel if you have any doubts about the structural integrity of the old wheel. (especially if there are signs of abuse).

An exploding grinding wheel at 3600 RPM without a shield can injure or kill.