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Help me pick a compressor

tncumminsguy

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I was going to build a shop/apartment but now I'm moving to a townhouse with a decent sized 2-car garage(22x22X12). Still plan on buying a piece of property and building a large shop but for now I will be in the 2 car. I'm looking for a good compressor that will run off 220v and be big enough for my future shop. I plan on running air tools like grinders occasionally but mainly impact guns, Plasma cutter, small blast cabinet, and maybe spray guns. Really looking for a good reliable upright compressor that won't break the bank.
 
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tncumminsguy

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Bump

Looking at the IR type-30 80 gallon 5hp two stage

and the IR 5hp 80gallon two stage they sell at Tractor supply only.


EDIT. After reading reviews on the IR stuff online I think the Quincy they sell at northern tool for 1399 might be my best bet. I don't like to buy stuff twice
 
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tncumminsguy

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Okay well I just got really lucky and turns out I'm renting half of my family friends 40x60 shop! He has been like an uncle to me and taught me a bunch of things, we plan to outfit the shop with welders, plasma cutter and a blast cabinet now. Its very nice that I will now have room for my crawler and parts, plus this place is already wired with huge workbenches,tons of lighting, pallet jacks, skid loader, tractor etc.. Only catch is he lives about 35 mins away, so this compressor wont be used all the time as he has 2 other workshops on his property. Should I just bite the bullet and get the quincy or get a used kobalt 2-stage off CL ?


Really have been looking at this compressor, just don't want to spend the coin
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200350475_200350475
 

GeneralDisorder

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Find a used Quincy QR-325.

There does not exist a finer recip compressor on the planet. It will be the last compressor you ever buy unless you find yourself needing more than 18 CFM. They are awesome machines and other brands pale by comparison. IR and Champion, etc do make disc valve machines but when they blow up they are usually not worth rebuilding. The QR has an oil pump like a gas engine and a spin-on oil filter... Hydraulic unloaded to prevent low oil pressure operation, and they are virtually all setup for pilot control - which will be very helpful in running a blast cabinet.

The new Quincy machines in your budget are certainly reed valve machines and they are ok but are not full industrial machines and when they eventually die you just toss em. You can rebuild a QR from the 1940's and it will go another 50 year's.

A new 5 HP QR package on an 80 gallon tank is in the $5,000 neighborhood - which is why I recommended used for a budget minded operation - they can be easily rebuilt.

I'm not a huge fan of the QT as in that northern tool add. That one has no pilot control which means start/stop operation only. Bad for blast cabinet type use as you will short cycle the machine. And when they die they are disposable - Quincy calls it a "light industrial" machine but its just a reed valve pump like all the other cheap imports - though they are made in the US. New Quincy stuff is somewhat questionable since they were bought out by Atlas Copco.

GD
 
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GarageEnvy

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Consider looking into factory "blem" units. I picked up a Bel-Air QP series from an Ebay reseller for less than half of retail because it had scratches in the paint and a cracked plastic cover. It's a good way of getting a new good quality compressor. Used is a gamble, no matter what the quality is. I looked at Saylor Beal, Champion, Quincy and Eaton. All are good. Some people have an issue with Eaton and Chinese components. Many of these top quality brands are run in commercial shops. Some are well maintained, some aren't.
 

ddurango

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I bought a 5hp 80 gallon Champion from TP Tools about 6 months ago. Free shipping and paid about $1700 for it. I have used it mainly for a blast cabinet and air tools, and it is way more than adequate. The quality of construction was head and shoulders above the IR and home improvement brands I was looking at. I liked it better than the 5hp Quincy at Northern Tool, and it has more CFMs.

I cringed, but did the "buy once, cry once" thing and I am glad I did. Great compressor and great service. I am certain that it will last me for my lifetime.
 

68elky

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I bought an old 1968 Curtis 2 stage. Set at 175 but is rated at 200psi and is 80gal tank. Never runs out of air and never below 120. It turns slow but it is old. Nice to be able to talk next to it while it runs. Rebuild parts are cheep and when I Called the company for info, they said people call for parts and use that compressor still to this day.
 

PeterT

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Boy there sure are a lot that have sprung up on craigslist here recently in NW Ohio. Some of them look very nice for the price.
I am no expert, but I purchased an Ingersol Rand from Northerntool and I was very disappointed. The tank leaked in 3 places, the engine was Mexico, the pump India and various other parts were China. The tank never comes up to the full pressure and they've made the pressure switch very hard to adjust.
The unit is pretty quiet, so I've learned to live with it as opposed to returning it. But it will be my last Ingersol Rand and my last purchase from Northerntool.
 

jdsac

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You won't get a better compressor than a Quincey. This one is in your area
and can probably be run before purchase. Unless you are using it all day, every day you don't need a new one. Note the gauge on the pump- they are pressure lubed- not splash. Also note- the paint on the head isn't burnt / discolored- it hasn't been run hard.
This one won't be around long...

http://memphis.craigslist.org/tls/3237748718.html
 
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GeneralDisorder

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That's a good example of a Quincy that's been around longer than a lot of us have been alive. It's a small one though - I typically look for the 5 HP pumps. Either a QR-240 or a QR-325 (the holy grail of home-shop compressors). And for the size that one is a bit spendy. The last 240 I bought came with a new 5 HP motor and I paid $100 for it. Obviously it's cheaper to buy one's that "need work" than one's that are turn-key like that appears to be. You are always going to pay more when competing against people that have more money than time/brains.

Check with your local Quincy distributor - a lot of them have service shops that refurb machines, or guys there that do so on the side, etc. That happened quite often at the shop I worked at and still does. Just got a friend of mine a completely refurbished QR-325 package on an 80 gallon horizontal for $1800. Last compressor he will ever buy....

My own machine cost me about $800 to build. COMPLETELY new. Pump rebuilt by me (factory trained Quincy tech) and all other components were new or almost new in the case of the tank itself. Just takes some time and effort and looking around.

GD
 
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bcradio

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That's a good example of a Quincy that's been around longer than a lot of us have been alive. It's a small one though - I typically look for the 5 HP pumps. Either a QR-240 or a QR-325 (the holy grail of home-shop compressors). And for the size that one is a bit spendy. The last 240 I bought came with a new 5 HP motor and I paid $100 for it. Obviously it's cheaper to buy one's that "need work" than one's that are turn-key like that appears to be. You are always going to pay more when competing against people that have more money than time/brains.

Check with your local Quincy distributor - a lot of them have service shops that refurb machines, or guys there that do so on the side, etc. That happened quite often at the shop I worked at and still does. Just got a friend of mine a completely refurbished QR-325 package on an 80 gallon horizontal for $1800. Last compressor he will ever buy....

My own machine cost me about $800 to build. COMPLETELY new. Pump rebuilt by me (factory trained Quincy tech) and all other components were new or almost new in the case of the tank itself. Just takes some time and effort and looking around.

GD

Since you're so knowledgeable about compressor rebuilds, perhaps you could post a build thread sometime?
 
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Trey T

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If you're going to make an investment, start with a brand new tank. I don't trust used compressor system and waste time rebuilding it if needed.

For your type of air tool loads, you need a minimum of 2 stage pump 10scfm @ 90psi with 60gal tank.

I have the husky 30gal single-stage v-twin pump that spits out 5scfm @ 90 psi. Just not enough for grinding and other rotary tools. I really want to nice IR 60 gal 2 stage pump setup, but I can live w/ my Husky for now.
 

bcradio

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Is this sarcasm lol?

Uh no... I don't know about you, but I'm not a "factory trained quincy tech", so I ain't no expert.

I've read most of this guys posts and he keeps talking about how easy it is to build these things. Well if its easy, show us.
 

GeneralDisorder

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Well it's not really much different than a piston engine - just has roller bearings for the mains instead of sleeve bearings. The rest is comparable and you rebuild them the same way. Just get the specs, tear it down, replace bad components and re-ring/re-bearing it.

The biggest difference is in how you hone the cylinders on a compressor. They have to have a very rough hone to break in properly due to the low speeds at which they operate.

There is no "valve train" as the valves are demand operated disc valves. You disassemble them polish the seats with glass and silicone carbide sand paper, and assemble with new discs.

There's a few learning/experience based calculations that go into setting up the machine - sheave sizes, pressure set points, pressure differential, pilot setup, and the basics of electrical motor wiring, etc. But all that is what GJ is for. Ask questions....

GD
 

pipsters

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I read a very interesting article about honing - in fact it said to NOT hone in the sense we are used to doing it.

It deals with engines but had some pretty compelling arguments, in that honing actually reduces the lifespan of the new rings significantly.

http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm

Thoughts
 

GeneralDisorder

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Compressors are not engines in that sense and that's why I mentioned it. The machines I'm talking about completely top out at 1000 RPM. That is their MAX speed and many people run them at 850 or so. Due to the slow speeds and low temperatures the rings will NEVER seat if you don't have a deep, rough hone on the cylinders. Such is the way I was schooled on the process and AFAIK they have been doing it that way for 75 years since the company I worked for became a Quincy service center.

Admittedly I've never tried not honing them...

As far engines - that doesn't apply to many modern engines as they don't run strictly cast iron rings anymore. Many engines have chrome faced rings and those will never seat on a completely smooth cylinder.

GD
 

bsaint

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I hone Quincy cylinders like I do old Gardner Denver cylinders and never had any issues. The biggest my old shop has done is a Joy WN112.
 

pipsters

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What sort of hones are you guys using? The el cheapo ones on springs don't seem to work as well as the kind you crank on to open up with a nut and hold it to that position.

Like this lisle:
41oHxOJdWrL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


For a DIY person that is. I know shops would use some sort of large machine.
 

GeneralDisorder

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Everything is Sunnen. The smallest I have is like the one you posted.

Ditto. And we apply a lot more pressure than those spring hones could apply.

We had no honing "machine".... You put the cylinder between your boots with some two-nutted bolts to hold it above a drain pan and go to town with a big 1/2" drill. WD-40 for cutting fluid.

GD
 
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sparky7

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quincy qt-54 - anything else is just bandaid in comparison

look for a quincy dealer near you, i had one about 35 miles away and i just went and picked it up, gave me a discount because i paid cash too. The lift gate fee from northern tool is over a 100 bucks
 
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GeneralDisorder

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quincy qt-54 - anything else is just bandaid in comparison

Eh - QT's are the "light industrial" reed valve machines. You want a REAL compressor? Get a QR-5120.

The QT-54 is alright but it's still a throw-away machine and it's the bottom of the Quincy line - one of the larger bottom end models but it's not a QR and never will be. It will not withstand actual production environment use. I have seen plenty of places buy those thinking they were hot stuff and blow em up in just a few years. Usually they end up sucking a broken reed valve and it hammer em to pieces - breaks pistons and scores up cylinder till they are a total loss.

GD
 
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PT Doc

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Eh - QT's are the "light industrial" reed valve machines. You want a REAL compressor? Get a QR-5120.

The QT-54 is alright but it's still a throw-away machine and it's the bottom of the Quincy line - one of the larger bottom end models but it's not a QR and never will be. It will not withstand actual production environment use. I have seen plenty of places buy those thinking they were hot stuff and blow em up in just a few years. Usually they end up sucking a broken reed valve and it hammer em to pieces - breaks pistons and scores up cylinder till they are a total loss.

GD

What are your thoughts on the Quincy QT5, 5hp Baldor setup, 80 gal 2 stage?
 

brianpgriset

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I don't tend to think many of us need a compressor that can withstand actual production environments since most of us don't have actual production environments in our garages. That said I agree, buying a used qr machine would be great, but I think the op would do just fine buying a new qt5 from northern and be happy for a very long time.

If you can find a used qr go for it but otherwise I'd stick with the qt5. I would not get the v4 machine you posted earlier. Btw northern puts the Quincy machines on sale everyone once in a blue moon. I got $300 off my qt7.5 two years ago.
 

GeneralDisorder

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What are your thoughts on the Quincy QT5, 5hp Baldor setup, 80 gal 2 stage?

All QT's are of the same design catagory. Their biggest drawback is being splash lubed machines.....

Quincy now has a new line called the QP - This is actually a great idea - its the pressure lubed bottom end of a QR with a reed valve head. So you get the benefits of the QR and you don't have disc valves that tend to rust up get leaky if you don't run the machine enough. Just about the only drawback to QR disc valves is they don't like to be short cycled. They really like to run and get hot - otherwise they will rust from condensation. It's a trade off since eventually you have to rebuild the disc valves but this makes itself known typically with high interstage pressures. You also have to replace the reed valve assembly on the QT/QP (last I heard they say yearly) but you must choose to do this preventatively as a failure will typically damage the cylinders and pistons making repair difficult and often more costly than a replacement. That doesn't happen with the QR.

GD
 
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