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Help me pick a jump pack

Junkman

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Dec 18, 2006
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Northeastern CT
I have read all the previous posts about jump packs, or at least all the more recent ones. I need a reliable jump pack to carry in my old car. It has a reproduction AGM battery, which isn't large enough to meet the electrical demand when I take it to a parade. I don't want to modify the car with a more modern alternator, and it doesn't take very long to drain the battery if I have all the lights flashing and occasionally use the siren. I think a lead-acid type of Jump Pack is what I need, but should I buy a Snap-On, Mac, or a cheap jump pack from a local auto parts store? What would you recommend, and why? thanks


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ecotec

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Oct 5, 2010
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I would look at all the popular high peak amperage compact boxes. A lot of people like NOCO these days.

I also have one of the huge ones, a JNC770, and it is too big to keep in the car. It works great, but it is bigger than 10 NOCO size boxes. It is great for a no start in the drive, but I would not recommend it for something to keep in the car.
 

ecotec

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Are regular people allowed to drive around with lights other than white or amber?
 

1Bad55Chevy

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I am a car dealer and I work on cars daily. I have a JNC660 jump box that I have had for 6 years and its just starting to fade on me. I have used to jump off everything from civics to v10 f250 and 8.1 magnum and its never missed a beat. Going to dealer auctions more specifically Manheim Dallas there has been a ton of times where I had to jump off 5+ vehicles just to get mine out and its done awesome. 2 years ago I purchased a Schumacher 3000A jump pack to start carrying to the auctions because it was much smaller and lighter and its an absolute beast! The Schumacher one has jumped off an 8.1 Magnum without a battery in the vehicle we without a hiccup! Recently I had to repo a 2008 Ram 1500 4.7L, the dirt bag took the battery out thinking it would slow me down. He came out the house looking like a cow looking at a new gate when I hopped in that truck and drove it off with just that box powering it! The box got me to a parts store about 20 minutes away to get a battery.

The JNC is much cheaper and would probably handle your needs.
 

dscheidt

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Recently I had to repo a 2008 Ram 1500 4.7L, the dirt bag took the battery out thinking it would slow me down. He came out the house looking like a cow looking at a new gate when I hopped in that truck and drove it off with just that box powering it! The box got me to a parts store about 20 minutes away to get a battery.

no, the alternator of the vehicle got you to the parts store. In a properly working modern vehicle, once the alternator is putting out power, the battery just serves as a buffer, it is not providing power. In gasoline engines, the alternator starts working immediately (some have to reach a certain engine speed); many diesels disable the alternator until they're done using the glow plugs or grid heaters, which are used even after starting until the engine is approaching operating temperature. The OPs car isn't modern, and probably had an undersized generator or alternator even before the additional load of the lights and sirens were added. Also, generator output goes up with engine speed, and low speed parade driving is pretty much the worst case -- all the loads on, engine at or just above idle so generator output is near zero.

@Junkman I'd suggest one of the clore jump-n-carry lead acid packs, probably the 660. You're right that you want a lead acid one, if the goal is run the car on it (and not just start and let the car's charging system handle it, which yours seems not to be able to do) I'd make sure the vehicle battery is fully charged -- using a charger, not the car -- before you go to a parade. AGM batteries have different charging curves and voltages than conventional lead acid batteries, and unless you've adjusted your charging system (which if the car has a mechanical voltage regulator, you could do) it isn't charging it properly. I'd also consider replacing the battery with one with the largest reserve capacity you can get in the right size.
 

pbon

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May 14, 2017
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I have Noco, JNC and Gooloo. I prefer Gooloo for the lithium packs, the GT4000 series. Noco buttons fail — on the jumpers and trickle chargers. I won’t buy another. JNC is great for the big lead acid packs.
 
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mooman

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Jun 9, 2005
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CHICAGO, IL
Noco packs on sale with considerable discounts for Prime days.
 

Steve_P

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Sep 15, 2010
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I have Noco, Gooloo, and one other brand that I can't think of. All three seem about the same to me, but I'm only using them once or twice a year or so. The last one I bought was a Gooloo, below.


Project Farm has two? tests on these, with one very recent.
 

1Bad55Chevy

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Feb 20, 2025
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no, the alternator of the vehicle got you to the parts store. In a properly working modern vehicle, once the alternator is putting out power, the battery just serves as a buffer, it is not providing power. In gasoline engines, the alternator starts working immediately (some have to reach a certain engine speed); many diesels disable the alternator until they're done using the glow plugs or grid heaters, which are used even after starting until the engine is approaching operating temperature. The OPs car isn't modern, and probably had an undersized generator or alternator even before the additional load of the lights and sirens were added. Also, generator output goes up with engine speed, and low speed parade driving is pretty much the worst case -- all the loads on, engine at or just above idle so generator output is near zero.

@Junkman I'd suggest one of the clore jump-n-carry lead acid packs, probably the 660. You're right that you want a lead acid one, if the goal is run the car on it (and not just start and let the car's charging system handle it, which yours seems not to be able to do) I'd make sure the vehicle battery is fully charged -- using a charger, not the car -- before you go to a parade. AGM batteries have different charging curves and voltages than conventional lead acid batteries, and unless you've adjusted your charging system (which if the car has a mechanical voltage regulator, you could do) it isn't charging it properly. I'd also consider replacing the battery with one with the largest reserve capacity you can get in the right size.
I understand how vehicles work. The point only point I was trying to make was it started the vehicle and it drove. On modern vehicles a lot of times if the battery is completely dead like its been sitting discharged for a good amount of time the alternator is not enough to keep them running. On those cases they can typically idle but if you try to accelerate the increasing electrical power demands will cause the vehicle to die.

And btw most if not all modern vehicles command the alternator on and off through the ECM when going down the road. I am not aware of any vehicle made within the past 15-20 years that run constantly like vehicles from 40 years ago.

I appreciate the flex of knowledge on me but I am a professional mechanic so I do understand how they work. We could have gotten technical and hooked up the scanner and watched the live data of the ECM switching the alternator on and off and counted that then reported that on here but during a repo I didn't have the time with the guy running out the house. I have learned my lesson and will try and do better to better serve the community of GJ for product reviews.
 

1Bad55Chevy

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Joined
Feb 20, 2025
Messages
623
no, the alternator of the vehicle got you to the parts store. In a properly working modern vehicle, once the alternator is putting out power, the battery just serves as a buffer, it is not providing power. In gasoline engines, the alternator starts working immediately (some have to reach a certain engine speed); many diesels disable the alternator until they're done using the glow plugs or grid heaters, which are used even after starting until the engine is approaching operating temperature. The OPs car isn't modern, and probably had an undersized generator or alternator even before the additional load of the lights and sirens were added. Also, generator output goes up with engine speed, and low speed parade driving is pretty much the worst case -- all the loads on, engine at or just above idle so generator output is near zero.

@Junkman I'd suggest one of the clore jump-n-carry lead acid packs, probably the 660. You're right that you want a lead acid one, if the goal is run the car on it (and not just start and let the car's charging system handle it, which yours seems not to be able to do) I'd make sure the vehicle battery is fully charged -- using a charger, not the car -- before you go to a parade. AGM batteries have different charging curves and voltages than conventional lead acid batteries, and unless you've adjusted your charging system (which if the car has a mechanical voltage regulator, you could do) it isn't charging it properly. I'd also consider replacing the battery with one with the largest reserve capacity you can get in the right size.
I understand how vehicles work. The point I was trying to make was it started the vehicle and it drove. On modern vehicles a lot of times if the battery is completely dead like its been sitting discharged for a good amount of time the alternator is not enough to keep them running. On those cases they can typically idle but if you try to accelerate the increasing electrical power demands will cause the vehicle to die.

And btw most if not all modern vehicles command the alternator on and off through the ECM when going down the road. I am not aware of any vehicle made within the past 15-20 years that run constantly like vehicles from 40 years ago.

I appreciate the flex of knowledge on me but I am a professional mechanic so I do understand how they work. We could have gotten technical and hooked up the scanner and watched the live data of the ECM switching the alternator on and off and counted that then reported that on here but during a repo I didn't have the time with the guy running out the house. I have learned my lesson and will try and do better to better serve the community of GJ for product reviews
 
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Gangly

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Jun 9, 2025
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The Woodlands, Texas
I use the Battery Tender 2000 Amp Portable Portable Power Station. Its costly, but you get multiple jumps out of it before it needs to be recharged. I generally keep it in the truck for emergencies, and it just sits in there until I need it. I pulled it out of the truck the other day to jump start another vehicle, after not having charged it for who knows how long, and the other car fired right up immediately. I checked the charge after jumping the other car and it was near full. I hooked it up to its USB charger to top it off, and back in the truck it goes.

 

zimman

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Mar 2, 2014
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Mark Twain National Forest
The Ambulance at one time went on calls with lights and sirens going and returned to the fire station with no problem. Correct? So what happened? I'd put in a second battery to handle the load. (another thread on here tonight). Use a battery isolator to prevent the discharge of the starting battery. BUT. First I would figure out why a 60+ old car can't keep the lights going.
It was designed to work, find out why it won't. LOL
Zim
 

mike93lx

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Dec 9, 2013
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Richmond, VA
The Ambulance at one time went on calls with lights and sirens going and returned to the fire station with no problem. Correct? So what happened? I'd put in a second battery to handle the load. (another thread on here tonight). Use a battery isolator to prevent the discharge of the starting battery. BUT. First I would figure out why a 60+ old car can't keep the lights going.
It was designed to work, find out why it won't. LOL
Zim
Guessing it has to do with spending the entire parade idling instead of revving like an ambulance on a call would be?
 

zimman

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Guessing it has to do with spending the entire parade idling instead of revving like an ambulance on a call would be?
It's a beautiful car. I don't think like a lot of folks so that's that. LOL
All I know is some guy, much smarter than me designed that car with all those lights to go fetch people and take them to safety. Then come back home. And, just to be clear I can't imagine how a jump pack would work. I've sold at least a hundred and actually have had a NOCO 40 for six or seven years. Jumped many many cars, trucks, fork lifts and so on.
I'm out.
Zim
 

fourjeepin

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Feb 12, 2011
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Atlanta, GA
I have a NOCO and it’s great. That said, can you replace the bulbs with leds to reduce the power demands? And maybe someone can rebuild the alternator to provide more output without changing the look.…
 
OP
J

Junkman

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Northeastern CT
I obtained the car's history from the second owner, and it was shipped to the body builder with a 42 amp standard alternator, despite being ordered with the optional 62 amp alternator featuring a transistorized regulator. At the time, the 62 amp alternator wasn't available at the assembly plant, so rather than hold up the delivery to the body builder, they sent it with what was available. Later, the delivering dealership removed the 42-amp alternator and installed a 62-amp alternator. They returned the removed parts to the people who had ordered the car. When I bought the car, the 62-amp alternator came with it in a box with some other associated parts. The 62 amp alternator had a distinct smell of smoke, so I can only assume that when it crapped out, they put the smaller alternator back on. You need to realize that this is 60-year-old technology, and repair parts are nearly impossible to find. I have since found a NOS 62 amp alternator and a new regulator, but I have yet to install them. That is on my list of things to do this summer (hopefully). It is a numbers-matching car, and I am trying my best to keep it that way.
No matter what, I need to get a jump pack to keep with the car.
I will try to get a picture of it tomorrow. In the meantime, there is one offered for sale on eBay.

eBay item number:196883942144
 

dscheidt

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Apr 26, 2017
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.
I obtained the car's history from the second owner, and it was shipped to the body builder with a 42 amp standard alternator, despite being ordered with the optional 62 amp alternator featuring a transistorized regulator. At the time, the 62 amp alternator wasn't available at the assembly plant, so rather than hold up the delivery to the body builder, they sent it with what was available. Later, the delivering dealership removed the 42-amp alternator and installed a 62-amp alternator. They returned the removed parts to the people who had ordered the car. When I bought the car, the 62-amp alternator came with it in a box with some other associated parts. The 62 amp alternator had a distinct smell of smoke, so I can only assume that when it crapped out, they put the smaller alternator back on. You need to realize that this is 60-year-old technology, and repair parts are nearly impossible to find. I have since found a NOS 62 amp alternator and a new regulator, but I have yet to install them. That is on my list of things to do this summer (hopefully). It is a numbers-matching car, and I am trying my best to keep it that way.
No matter what, I need to get a jump pack to keep with the car.
I will try to get a picture of it tomorrow. In the meantime, there is one offered for sale on eBay.

eBay item number:196883942144

the 20dn was used on all sorts of heavy duty stuff (not just GM vehicles, but other manufacturers and equipment). Lots of different variants, including 24 and 32V versions. Make sure what you get is right for the car. the 30si would be a bolt in replacement, but the wiring would have to be modified. This was a common modification, because the externally regulated alternators ****. (Delco-Remy sold kits to do it for some vehicles.)

A good alternator shop (if you can find onet....) can rebuild your alternator, and regulator. There were some variants of the 20dn that had much higher low rpm output, might be able to fit the parts inside your existing case.
 
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J

Junkman

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I bought a NOCO 2000 amp Lithium-Ion Jump Pack from Amazon on one of the Prime Sales Days. It is compact enough to keep in the car, and with any luck, I will be able to mount the larger alternator on the vehicle within the next week or two. My wife finally finished all of her physical therapy appointments this week, so I won't have to drive her for a while.
She got run over by her car when it didn't go all the way into park, and it shattered her pelvis, along with a lot of internal injuries. 6 months in hospital and rehab, and she is walking again. She is lucky to be alive after being dragged under the car for 40 feet.
 

Callelle

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Feb 3, 2022
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Depew NY
I have a GooLoo GT4000S and it's impressed me. Our StartAll 10000 died at work and we really needed to get a truck started and in the shop. It managed to bring a mostly dead A26 (one of our 13L Class 8 engines) to life, it wasn't all that happy about it and I know I was pushing it way beyond what it's rated for, but it still did it.
 

hmbemis

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Eastern Massachusetts
Reviving an old(er) thread -- I have a VTOMAN X7 bought in summer 2023 which was either #1 or at least in the top 3 of Project Farm's 2023 jump pack evaluation, I've used it a handful of times (3X maybe?) but now in Nov 2025 it's nearly useless.

In anticipation of using my old Caddy this week, I put the VTOMAN on the charger, it started off blinking the 4th of out 4 bars implying nearly fully charged... after several hours it shows the 4 of 4 steady (fully charged) ... The Caddy needs a long time to crank after it's been sitting for a month or two, and on my last drive I accidentally let the on-board maintainer cord get lose and it was run over/ripped off, so I was starting off on the wrong foot w/ a weaker battery so when I noticed the cranking slow down I put the VTOMAN on... I got 4 seconds of very fast cranking and then the VTOMAN was done. Blinking 1 bar and won't output anything. I put it back on the charger and it starts with 1 of 4 blinking on battery, then within a minute it's up to 4 of 4 blinking -- so I assume this means the batteries inside are failing as it can't sustain output but also believes it is near fully charged very quickly. I got lucky in that the Caddy fired on the next try, even w/ slow crank, so I didn't have to bust out the 120V charger.

Before this VTOMAN I had a GOOLOO 2000A bought in summer 2021 which was Project Farm's #1 around that time, it also failed after a couple of years which is why I bought the VTOMAN -- Initial symptom was that it was stone dead, the LED for charge would turn on when plugged in, but no matter how long it was left charging it would still be stone dead once removed from the charger. On that occasion I needed it and it didn't work, which was pretty frustrating.

Each of these was about $75-125. On the one hand I feel like paying <$5/mo over 2 years to have a relatively new jump pack on standby isn't too bad... on the other it kills me how much e-waste this generates.

...and as you get close to the 18-24 month mark you really have no idea if the thing is actually going to work in a dead-battery situation or not where you might not have access to alternatives.

The other thing I notice is that all these packs are soft-activate -- there's no hard on/off power switch -- so you have a standby loss for however long you leave it between uses or charging to run the microcontroller that waits for button pushes or to see voltage on the jump terminals. I'm assuming the standby current is not enough to kill the battery in 6-12 months, but it's still there.

From this thread Noco seems to be the preferred brand lately, they historically haven't fared well in Project Farm's jump tests, but maybe this year's models are different -- their battery maintainers seem to work well, I have 2 of them.
 
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