Help me Pick a Table Saw

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Theronswanson

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No one has mentioned a track saw for your sheet goods ripping. I have a small shop and would highly recommend a track saw for sheet goods - You can get an expensive one or one of the clones for a reasonable amount Grizzly has one that doesn't do too bad. Also, I agree with the recommendation that you might find a used table saw such as a Unisaw but it's pretty heavy and take a lot of space.
SEVERAL people have mentioned a track saw. And they clearly didn't see the part in the OP where I said I have a circular saw and an straight edge to rip bigger sheet goods down.
 
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tyyost

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Of the choices you posted I‘d pick the Ridgid 10” saw. Between the folding stand and the 10” blade I think it best fits your use case. I have a Bosch 4100 with gravity rise stand but it probably takes up more room than you would appreciate given your posts.

One of my buddy’s has the DeWalt previous to the model you shared, and it’s a good saw, but now I can’t get past the oddball blade size. Depending on what you plan to do having choices in blades can make your life easy. I’m now using a delta contractors saw I paid $150 for as my normal user, but it doesn’t store easily or get out of the way when other projects come through.
 

PugetDude

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Of the choices you posted I‘d pick the Ridgid 10” saw. Between the folding stand and the 10” blade I think it best fits your use case. I have a Bosch 4100 with gravity rise stand but it probably takes up more room than you would appreciate given your posts.

One of my buddy’s has the DeWalt previous to the model you shared, and it’s a good saw, but now I can’t get past the oddball blade size. Depending on what you plan to do having choices in blades can make your life easy. I’m now using a delta contractors saw I paid $150 for as my normal user, but it doesn’t store easily or get out of the way when other projects come through.
My Bosch 4100 is the only table saw I have ever owned that I can absolutely trust the rip fence to stay parallel with the blade and the scale to be dead-on width every time. Set it and forget it.
 
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Theronswanson

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Not really the same. At the base level sure, but other than both are circular saws its night and day different.
Other than having a riving knife and being able to plunge cut, am i really missing much? From what I've seen most circular saws (7 1/4) have better cutting depth due to larger diameter blade. Aren't most track saws around the 6 1/2-6 3/4 size?
 

jar944

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Other than having a riving knife and being able to plunge cut, am i really missing much? From what I've seen most circular saws (7 1/4) have better cutting depth due to larger diameter blade. Aren't most track saws around the 6 1/2-6 3/4 size?

160/165mm track saws will cut 2" (on the track) 7 1/4 will usually cut 2 5/8" so not enough difference to care about. If it was 2 vs 3" maybe.

It's all about cut quality. My makita track saw left a better edge than all my table saws (except my slider)

If that is irrelevant a track saw is not for you
 

MikeK

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Other than having a riving knife and being able to plunge cut, am i really missing much? From what I've seen most circular saws (7 1/4) have better cutting depth due to larger diameter blade. Aren't most track saws around the 6 1/2-6 3/4 size?
Dust collection. I used a Bosch circular saw with the matching track for years, and it was definitely an outside tool. I made the mistake of ripping some 19mm plywood sheets in the basement with the Bosch circular saw...once. Even though I had the vacuum connected to the saw, I was sweeping and vacuuming chips for an hour after a few cuts and dust was everywhere.

Now that I have a track saw and vacuum, this setup is an inside tool. There are still some chips to clean up, but I am confident the dust I cannot see is collected by the vacuum.
 
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Theronswanson

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Dust collection. I used a Bosch circular saw with the matching track for years, and it was definitely an outside tool. I made the mistake of ripping some 19mm plywood sheets in the basement with the Bosch circular saw...once. Even though I had the vacuum connected to the saw, I was sweeping and vacuuming chips for an hour after a few cuts and dust was everywhere.

Now that I have a track saw and vacuum, this setup is an inside tool. There are still some chips to clean up, but I am confident the dust I cannot see is collected by the vacuum.
What's dust collection? 🤣🤣🤣
 

tarbellb

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I dont think I've ever poked my head into this side of the forum before. I'm newish to woodworking

DeWalt 8 1/4

Rigid 10 inch

Delta 10 inch

Skil 10 inch
!


The best job site saw made was the DeWalt 10" version of the one you posted. Bigger blade, bigger table, rack n pinion fence, and clever flip fence for long cuts

I've worked on $20m homes that the finish wood workers used these exclusively

That's why Skil and HF have both ripped them off

Grab the best priced one and be done with it

OR
go grab a Austrian made 14" slider and put it in your kitchen
 

Torque&Recoil

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I have a Bosch 4100. I mounted it on a stand that also has a plastic bucket below to catch sawdust. The height is 1/4” taller than my plastic folding table so it acts as an 8’ long outfeed table. It’s light enough I can lift it into the back of my pickup. I changed the cord to a 24’ so I don’t need an extension cord usually.
The best saw feature is the soft start, and it runs very quiet. Even my grandsons aren’t afraid of it. It has a great detachable guard and good fence. It extends to the side and extra 12” so it can rip 24” boards.
IMG_7028.jpeg

IMG_7029.jpeg

Excuse the mess, I’m working on another project and I just pulled it out from it’s parking spot just so you could see the stand and plastic table relationship
Is that an MGB? What year? My first car was a 74-1/2.
 

cccoltsicehockey

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I've been very happy with the Metabo HPT CJ10RJS. I recently got my own finally and previous used a buddy's for a long time on various projects.

It's a 10" blade, comes with a stand, and can use a dado stack.
I second this. I have had this saw for about 7 or 8 years now, and it has treated me really well for the projects I have thrown at it. I have used a dado stack with it as well so I can confirm that it works. I upgraded the blade in it and made my own zero inserts which made things even better. Maybe it is just that I don't know enough from not using anything better, but it has worked so well for me so far that I plan to keep using it and get a jointer and a planer before upgrading it.
 
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BSWS

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I was making this same decision a year ago. I've been using a 3HP Delta Unisaw I bought new in 1996, but I needed a 2nd saw for a smaller shop. I was impressed with the DeWalt products but didn't want the limitation of the 8.25" blade. The others you listed, along with HF and a few others, all look like they might be built in the same sweatshop. But I saw a lot of really impressive reviews from Youtubers that I, at least somewhat, trusted. They really liked the Skil version. When I found one for a little less than $300 I grabbed it. Keep in mind I'm used to a Unisaw, but this thing really impresses me. There are just 2 things that bug me. IT IS NOISY, I assume the others probably are too. And the throat plate is way too flexible. You have to be careful with downward pressure or you'll gouge your wood. The easy fix was building my own zero-clearance throat plates. It made a huge difference.
 

nadogail

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I purchased a used 12" Craftsman Commercial saw in the late 1970's. Most used saws have seen very low usage and once Cleaned, Lubricated and Adjusted will be good for years of hobby shop use.
 

dandan111

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I keep an old power Kraft up in the barn set up. Handy to rip with. I keep a thin kerf blade on it. The old saws are built like tanks but the
motors are usually small. I think mines 3/4hp
and it’s just barely enough.
 

mervyn

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Just looked thru most of this thread. I'm wanting to get my first ever table saw. Think I'm gonna look at HF. I just need something to cut wood straight.
 

redragoon

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Just looked thru most of this thread. I'm wanting to get my first ever table saw. Think I'm gonna look at HF. I just need something to cut wood straight.
You may have luck checking CL or Marketplace for used ones in your area. Table saws may get bought for a project then forgotten about so they can be found in good condition used.

Personally I picked up an older Delta contractor saw with a belt driven motor. Does not have the latest safety features, but it has plenty of power.
 

mervyn

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You may have luck checking CL or Marketplace for used ones in your area. Table saws may get bought for a project then forgotten about so they can be found in good condition used.

Personally I picked up an older Delta contractor saw with a belt driven motor. Does not have the latest safety features, but it has plenty of power.
I see em at estate auctions I go to. I'll keep an eye out.
 

redragoon

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I see em at estate auctions I go to. I'll keep an eye out.
Main things to look for are cast iron top, solid motor, and 10" blade.
I recommend a riving knife and 0 clearance insert for added safety on the older machines.
Some companies have guards for older models. I also added a large Stop switch at knee height to mine.
 

Ohio Andy

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Main things to look for are cast iron top, solid motor, and 10" blade.
I recommend a riving knife and 0 clearance insert for added safety on the older machines.
Some companies have guards for older models. I also added a large Stop switch at knee height to mine.
I totally agree, Miss strong believer in safety features. I finally bought a saw stop. It was expensive but I figured that the flesh sensing technology was worth it.
 

BSWS

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Last week I posted about how much I'm impressed with my Skill jobsite saw. Then my brother in law showed up with a 10" DeWalt that he inherited. He suggested "we" sell it after I clean it up. This gave me a chance to go over every square inch of an early DeWalt 744. This thing is barely used and it looks great, but after comparing it side by side with my Skil, I'm glad I saved myself a few hundred dollars. I'm not saying the Dewalt isn't a good saw, but the differences appear to be very subtle.
 

tarbellb

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Last week I posted about how much I'm impressed with my Skill jobsite saw. Then my brother in law showed up with a 10" DeWalt that he inherited. He suggested "we" sell it after I clean it up. This gave me a chance to go over every square inch of an early DeWalt 744. This thing is barely used and it looks great, but after comparing it side by side with my Skil, I'm glad I saved myself a few hundred dollars. I'm not saying the Dewalt isn't a good saw, but the differences appear to be very subtle.

Great update and good info to hear from a hands on experience

Just to repeat ourselves....

it seems like both Skil and Bauer did their homework and copied what is widely considered the industry standard in jobsite table saws

Of course bigger heavier (and smarter) saws are a upgrade but for this footprint it's about as good as it gets
 

lilscorpion

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I'm not questioning your expertise or experience, but "newish to woodworking" and "table saw" screams SawStop to me. The SawStop line is not the least expensive, but might be more economical than a trip to the Emergency Room.

Before getting a Sawstop cabinet saw I …

See Post #7 above on SawStop. Wouldn't consider a tablesaw under a 12" in this day and age without it. For anyone of any experience level...

I started with a 10” jet cabinet saw I bought used locally. A GREAT machine and all I needed. I’m fairly experienced with machines and tools both professionally and for hobby. I do not get complacent but like everyone I get tired. And that’s when I had my first table saw accident that landed me in the emergency room. Fortunately, tip of finger only, just barely nicked it. Still, ~$2k all said and done.

Realizing how lucky I was, I decided to buy a SawStop which was fairly new at the time. Cost me a little more than the hospital visit but I was able to sell my Jet saw and get $1000 to help

Now fast forward maybe 8 years to earlier this year. Same kinda situation with the saw stop. I’d been cutting some smaller pieces and must not have lifted my hand as high as I thought and the blade nipped my left index finger. Didn’t even notice it but an extremely loud bang from the saw stop startled me. I’ve heard that the saw can trigger by metal in wood so I thought I’d hit a brad nail in the board I was cutting. No, in fact my finger had. More or less a paper cut.

IMG_5408.jpeg

Saw Stop will send you a brand new module if it’s triggered by flesh so I got a new one for free ($100 otherwise).

The table saw is the only machine in my shop I’ve ever had an accident on and I’ve now had 2 in 10 years. I have a lot of machines. The price is actually cheap if your first one is a Saw Stop. Where it gets really expensive is if you realize you need one later.
 

RonnieC

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I started with a 10” jet cabinet saw I bought used locally. A GREAT machine and all I needed. I’m fairly experienced with machines and tools both professionally and for hobby. I do not get complacent but like everyone I get tired. And that’s when I had my first table saw accident that landed me in the emergency room. Fortunately, tip of finger only, just barely nicked it. Still, ~$2k all said and done.

Realizing how lucky I was, I decided to buy a SawStop which was fairly new at the time. Cost me a little more than the hospital visit but I was able to sell my Jet saw and get $1000 to help

Now fast forward maybe 8 years to earlier this year. Same kinda situation with the saw stop. I’d been cutting some smaller pieces and must not have lifted my hand as high as I thought and the blade nipped my left index finger. Didn’t even notice it but an extremely loud bang from the saw stop startled me. I’ve heard that the saw can trigger by metal in wood so I thought I’d hit a brad nail in the board I was cutting. No, in fact my finger had. More or less a paper cut.

IMG_5408.jpeg

Saw Stop will send you a brand new module if it’s triggered by flesh so I got a new one for free ($100 otherwise).

The table saw is the only machine in my shop I’ve ever had an accident on and I’ve now had 2 in 10 years. I have a lot of machines. The price is actually cheap if your first one is a Saw Stop. Where it gets really expensive is if you realize you need one later.
Glad you didn’t get hurt.
 
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