Help me pick a welder

[MattV]

I'm looking to pick up a stick welder for home use. I have a few projects in mind for it at the moment, and realistically won't be using anything bigger than 1/4" steel. Currently my garage is only wired for 120v, and would have to use my dad's shop to run a bigger machine. Because of this, I've been looking at dual voltage inverter welders. They appear to be small enough to easily transport, can be used at my place, and still have the capability of running off of 240. I'm looking for something that will last, and while cheaper is nice, I'm ok spending a bit more for quality.
-are inverters a long term reliable machine? I know it will vary brand to brand but are there any inherent issues?
-the dual voltage machines seem to have a lower output than a dedicated 240v, is it going to be enough?

The options I've been eyeing up are


https://canadaweldingsupply.ca/coll...ucts/canaweld-pf-161-du-stick-welding-package
-Made in Canada which is a huge plus for me. Can do tig, which isn't a huge selling point for me but versatility is nice. The price is nice, and seems like exactly what I want but the brand is an unknown to me which gives me pause


https://canadaweldingsupply.ca/collections/stick-welders-smaw/products/esab-miniarc-rogue-180i
-Esab seems like a quality brand, looks like it would be a good machine but the price is a lot higher. Is the extra cost worth it?


https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072BDSKY8/?tag=atomicindus04-20
-Hobart seems like a reputable brand, price is solid and looks like it should do what I want. Doesn't seem to have the option for tig which is a strike against it but isn't a sticking point as I don't know that I would ever use tig.



Any input would be appreciated. I'd really like to go with the canaweld but again, I don't know the brand and don't want to regret my purchase a couple years down the road. Feel free to throw out other options.

 

[FSrepair&fabrication]

I see the Miller thunderbolts are only 4-500 now. That’s a nice little machine to get started with and works on 120v or 240v.

 

[speed bump]

I've been eyeing the hobart 160 but haven't found a lot of reviews. Seems everyone is enamored with the super cheap Chinese stick machines and most of them don't know enough to tell you about them.

As far as inverters the big thing is it generally isn't worth repairing them, lose a board and it's time for a new welder

 

[seagull369]

Realize you probably won't be able to do any particularly thin metal either with a stick welder, even on it's lowest setting at 120V (quick Goog' search says anything <3/16"). I've heard of 'stitch welder' attachments which claim to allow u to go below that, but I never used them.

Don't really have any recommendations on brands, beyond the usual suspects like Lincoln, Miller and Hobart that you mentioned. Whichever you get, it would probably be to your advantage to get a DC current machine (as opposed to just an AC one), as it's a little easier to keep a steady arc going on those. I guess DC machines can have a problem with "arc blow," during welding, but I don't know much about that.

Inverter machines are more complex compared to traditional 'tombstone' transformer based welders, so I would assume because of that they are probably not as reliable. The main advantage to inverters is they are smaller in size comparatively (and perhaps more efficient).

 

[Mgdoug3]

I have the Esab equivalent (ThermalArc I think) of the 161s and it has been a great welder. I use it in the shop as well as taking it to other shops for mobile repairs. It's dual voltage but I only tried to use the 110v plug one time and it kept tripping the outlet as soon as I struck an arc. I think I was a 20 amp breaker but the outlet might have only been 15 amps.

If you plan to use the 110v plug make sure you have a 20 amp outlet. Max electrode is 3/32 for 7018 and 1/8 for 6011. Max amps is around 90 if I remember correctly. I would also plan on installing a 230v plug.

 

[mark-NJ]

Seems everyone is enamored with the super cheap Chinese stick machines and most of them don't know enough to tell you about them.

Please don't laugh...but I'm one of them!

I was going to buy a Miller stick welder last year, but then the EE in me said "wait a sec...it's a stick welder. No wire feed, no gas, no high-freq start....it's just a power supply". And with IGBTs being what they are these days, I though "how bad can these cheap eBay units be?"

Fully expecting to outgrow it quickly, (or kill it outright) I bought this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-IGBT-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'm running it on 240 through a 20A outlet, and I have to say: Having burned about 20 pounds of rod in a little less that one year (which for a back yard part-time welder is quite a lot!), this little machine has not once failed to deliver! I've done a lot of 3/8" plate with 1/8" 7018 on 130A, and I keep waiting for the box to die, or a breaker to trip, but (knock wood), it hasn't yet. Today I welded some .093 box steel with 3/32" 6013 at about 50A, electrode negative...clean start, great penetration, no burn-throughs. This silly little red box just keeps on delivering.

The stinger is surprisingly good, but the other accessories (mask, hammer) that it comes with are a joke, but otherwise I'm honestly stunned at what a decent job this unit does. I got it on sale for $99 bucks, and have zero regrets. I did buy my own #4 welding cable (didn't like the smaller cable that came with it), but re-used the connectors. I also replaced the crappy plastic power cord with a 10' piece of 12/3 SJO, and put on a plug to mate with the 240v/20A outlet in my shop. Look: I know it's cheesy, offshore junk...but, so far, it has vastly exceeded my wildest expectations.

YMMV, but I suspect not by much.

 

[speed bump]

Realize you probably won't be able to do any particularly thin metal either with a stick welder, even on it's lowest setting at 120V (quick Goog' search says anything <3/16"). I've heard of 'stitch welder' attachments which claim to allow u to go below that, but I never used them.

You can certainly go thinner on a stick welder. Sheet metal isn't fun but it is doable with something like 1/16" 6013. 1/8+ is pretty easy

Please don't laugh...but I'm one of them!

I was going to buy a Miller stick welder last year, but then the EE in me said "wait a sec...it's a stick welder. No wire feed, no gas, no high-freq start....it's just a power supply". And with IGBTs being what they are these days, I though "how bad can these cheap eBay units be?"

Fully expecting to outgrow it quickly, (or kill it outright) I bought this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-IGBT-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'm running it on 240 through a 20A outlet, and I have to say: Having burned about 20 pounds of rod in a little less that one year (which for a back yard part-time welder is quite a lot!), this little machine has not once failed to deliver! I've done a lot of 3/8" plate with 1/8" 7018 on 130A, and I keep waiting for the box to die, or a breaker to trip, but (knock wood), it hasn't yet. Today I welded some .093 box steel with 3/32" 6013 at about 50A, electrode negative...clean start, great penetration, no burn-throughs. This silly little red box just keeps on delivering.

The stinger is surprisingly good, but the other accessories (mask, hammer) that it comes with are a joke, but otherwise I'm honestly stunned at what a decent job this unit does. I got it on sale for $99 bucks, and have zero regrets. I did buy my own #4 welding cable (didn't like the smaller cable that came with it), but re-used the connectors. I also replaced the crappy plastic power cord with a 10' piece of 12/3 SJO, and put on a plug to mate with the 240v/20A outlet in my shop. Look: I know it's cheesy, offshore junk...but, so far, it has vastly exceeded my wildest expectations.

YMMV, but I suspect not by much.

Thanks for the information.

I'm not so worried about whether or not it survives, I am more curious about how it runs compared to the machines I've used or when using something other than 6013/6011/7018. Maybe I'm just paranoid but if watching a review and someone doesn't find the limits of a piece of equipment or have something they don't like I get suspicious of the product.

 

[MattV]

I see the Miller thunderbolts are only 4-500 now. That’s a nice little machine to get started with and works on 120v or 240v.

I wasn't looking much at those as most of the results I was turning up had them selling for 1200 canadian pesos, twice the price of the Hobart. There seems to be a lot of people saying the two are almost identical units so I had discounted getting the miller. Looking again, I've found some better pricing so I'll have to keep it in mind.

Realize you probably won't be able to do any particularly thin metal either with a stick welder, even on it's lowest setting at 120V (quick Goog' search says anything <3/16"). I've heard of 'stitch welder' attachments which claim to allow u to go below that, but I never used them.

Don't really have any recommendations on brands, beyond the usual suspects like Lincoln, Miller and Hobart that you mentioned. Whichever you get, it would probably be to your advantage to get a DC current machine (as opposed to just an AC one), as it's a little easier to keep a steady arc going on those. I guess DC machines can have a problem with "arc blow," during welding, but I don't know much about that.

Inverter machines are more complex compared to traditional 'tombstone' transformer based welders, so I would assume because of that they are probably not as reliable. The main advantage to inverters is they are smaller in size comparatively (and perhaps more efficient).

I've done a medium amount of stick, mig, and flux core welding so I'm mostly aware of the capabilities of each although by no means an expert. I'll likely pick up a mig down the road too, but at the moment stick suits my needs best. I believe the options available are all DC but that's something I'll pay attention to, thanks.

Please don't laugh...but I'm one of them!

I was going to buy a Miller stick welder last year, but then the EE in me said "wait a sec...it's a stick welder. No wire feed, no gas, no high-freq start....it's just a power supply". And with IGBTs being what they are these days, I though "how bad can these cheap eBay units be?"

Fully expecting to outgrow it quickly, (or kill it outright) I bought this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-IGBT-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'm running it on 240 through a 20A outlet, and I have to say: Having burned about 20 pounds of rod in a little less that one year (which for a back yard part-time welder is quite a lot!), this little machine has not once failed to deliver! I've done a lot of 3/8" plate with 1/8" 7018 on 130A, and I keep waiting for the box to die, or a breaker to trip, but (knock wood), it hasn't yet. Today I welded some .093 box steel with 3/32" 6013 at about 50A, electrode negative...clean start, great penetration, no burn-throughs. This silly little red box just keeps on delivering.

The stinger is surprisingly good, but the other accessories (mask, hammer) that it comes with are a joke, but otherwise I'm honestly stunned at what a decent job this unit does. I got it on sale for $99 bucks, and have zero regrets. I did buy my own #4 welding cable (didn't like the smaller cable that came with it), but re-used the connectors. I also replaced the crappy plastic power cord with a 10' piece of 12/3 SJO, and put on a plug to mate with the 240v/20A outlet in my shop. Look: I know it's cheesy, offshore junk...but, so far, it has vastly exceeded my wildest expectations.

YMMV, but I suspect not by much.

I actually came close to pulling the trigger on a chinese unit, but couldn't bring myself to. I'm not a huge fan of the overall trend of manufacturers these days to build things to break, as I find it's wasteful and costly in the long run. I've had enough bad experiences buying cheap that I'm planning on going for something with a little more quality control.

 

[MattV]

I've been eyeing the hobart 160 but haven't found a lot of reviews. Seems everyone is enamored with the super cheap Chinese stick machines and most of them don't know enough to tell you about them.

As far as inverters the big thing is it generally isn't worth repairing them, lose a board and it's time for a new welder

It's definitely challenging to find meaningful reviews anymore, too often everybody gives a 5 star review before even plugging a machine in because it "feels solid." I figured people around these parts should have the knowledge and experience to help me pick the right unit.

I have the Esab equivalent (ThermalArc I think) of the 161s and it has been a great welder. I use it in the shop as well as taking it to other shops for mobile repairs. It's dual voltage but I only tried to use the 110v plug one time and it kept tripping the outlet as soon as I struck an arc. I think I was a 20 amp breaker but the outlet might have only been 15 amps.

If you plan to use the 110v plug make sure you have a 20 amp outlet. Max electrode is 3/32 for 7018 and 1/8 for 6011. Max amps is around 90 if I remember correctly. I would also plan on installing a 230v plug.

I have an electrician friend that said he'd help me upgrade my electrical when his workload slows down. Have you tried running yours off 110v since? I've read conflicting reviews of different units whether they were any good on 110. I guess I'll find out eventually.

 

[mark-NJ]

You can certainly go thinner on a stick welder. Sheet metal isn't fun but it is doable with something like 1/16" 6013. 1/8+ is pretty easy



Thanks for the information.

I'm not so worried about whether or not it survives, I am more curious about how it runs compared to the machines I've used or when using something other than 6013/6011/7018. Maybe I'm just paranoid but if watching a review and someone doesn't find the limits of a piece of equipment or have something they don't like I get suspicious of the product.

FWIW, I've also done some remarkably-good stainless work, too. The base metal was 304 and the rod was Hobart 308L. I had never done SS work before, and was shocked at how easy it was to get very clean the results!

That said, I completely agree with you: reviews that just glow don't reveal much in terms of limitations, but I've had it a year, used it quite a bit, and have honestly yet to find a limitation! Like I said, it needed some "upgrading" (better cabling, in & out), but that was straight out of the box complaints on my part. In terms of operation, I have yet to find a job that it has failed at. I keep wondering when I'll discover the unit's limitations, but it hasn't happened yet.

The only thing I've done since is removed the cover & blew out some dirt. Metal work is dirty, and I was concerned about the unit's fan sucking in metal & carbide grindings / cuttings. The insides were remarkably clean.

Maybe it hasn't revealed it's limitations because my expectations are low. I'm a NON-certified, amateur welder of about a B- quality. If I were doing full-time production work, this would likely not be the unit I'd pick. But for my needs, it's pretty amazing. But, again, it's "just a power supply", right?

 

[mark-NJ]

I actually came close to pulling the trigger on a chinese unit, but couldn't bring myself to. I'm not a huge fan of the overall trend of manufacturers these days to build things to break, as I find it's wasteful and costly in the long run. I've had enough bad experiences buying cheap that I'm planning on going for something with a little more quality control.

That first link in your initial post...I've looked at that over & over, and I would be stunned if it's actually, truly, honestly made in Canada. There's just too many things that make me skeptical:

- Virtually identical packaging to the Chinese units found on eBay, Amazon, etc.
- The apparent absence of any NRTL labeling (UL, CSA, ETL, etc)
- The owner's manual, on page 2, contradicts the "Made in Canada" claim: "Canaweld, is in partnership with some of the best European welding and cutting equipment manufacturers, to distribute their machines to the North American market. Our business relationships have been created to offer our customers a wider range of machines" "European"? hmmm.... That ain't Canada.

Maybe I'm wrong, but I would bet a box of 7018 that this unit is a virtually-identical unit to mine + a TIG torch (if "scratch" it OK with you...) + a cheap regulator....all for a pricetag close to 6X higher than mine.

I could be 100% wrong, but I really don't think I am.

 

[seagull369]

It's definitely challenging to find meaningful reviews anymore, too often everybody gives a 5 star review before even plugging a machine in because it "feels solid."

Reminds me of the many winner reviews that start out, "I haven't used it yet, but..,,"

Answers people provide in response to questions posed by consumers interested in a product can be equally infuriating. Ones like, "I don't know, because I returned it and never even opened the package," make u want to reach out and strangle the guy.

Maybe I'm missing the point and people are getting paid to leave such nonsense or are expecting to receive free promotional stuff in exchange.

 

[bob15]

I would buy something from your local welding supply house; albeit a Miller/Hobart or ESAB.

I'm not convinced on the Canaweld welders being made in Canada. Also their dealer network is awfully small.

For me, a welder is a long-term purchase and cheapest price isn't always the best. Buy something you can get help & parts from locally.

 

[MattV]

That first link in your initial post...I've looked at that over & over, and I would be stunned if it's actually, truly, honestly made in Canada. There's just too many things that make me skeptical:

- Virtually identical packaging to the Chinese units found on eBay, Amazon, etc.
- The apparent absence of any NRTL labeling (UL, CSA, ETL, etc)
- The owner's manual, on page 2, contradicts the "Made in Canada" claim: "Canaweld, is in partnership with some of the best European welding and cutting equipment manufacturers, to distribute their machines to the North American market. Our business relationships have been created to offer our customers a wider range of machines" "European"? hmmm.... That ain't Canada.

Maybe I'm wrong, but I would bet a box of 7018 that this unit is a virtually-identical unit to mine + a TIG torch (if "scratch" it OK with you...) + a cheap regulator....all for a pricetag close to 6X higher than mine.

I could be 100% wrong, but I really don't think I am.

The manufacturers website lists CSA and IEC certifications, I'm really not in the know about any of these electrical standards groups though. Doing more digging, they seem to be related somehow to a middle eastern manufacturer called Joosha and the machines look similar. Seems like their engine driven models are made by a British company or something. I'd like to support a domestic manufacturer but I'm thinking you might be right, seems they're maybe manufactured overseas and the pieces assembled in canada or something.

 

[Mgdoug3]

I built a shop last winter and have 20 amp outlets but I have plenty of 230v plugs. I haven't tried to use the 110v adapter. Most of my stick welding is with 1/4" metal though. Thinner metal, I use my tig welder.

 

[mark-NJ]

The manufacturers website lists CSA and IEC certifications, I'm really not in the know about any of these electrical standards groups though. Doing more digging, they seem to be related somehow to a middle eastern manufacturer called Joosha and the machines look similar. Seems like their engine driven models are made by a British company or something. I'd like to support a domestic manufacturer but I'm thinking you might be right, seems they're maybe manufactured overseas and the pieces assembled in canada or something.

At this point it likely sounds like I'm shilling for my unit or something...trust me: not the case at all.

I would just hate to see you spend almost $600 for a unit where the same performance can be had for about a sixth of that...

 

[MattV]

At this point it likely sounds like I'm shilling for my unit or something...trust me: not the case at all.

I would just hate to see you spend almost $600 for a unit where the same performance can be had for about a sixth of that...

No worries, I appreciate the input. I'd rather spend a bit on quality than a disposable chinese unit that might only work for a week, but I don't want to spend big money something of questionable quality. My billshit-o-meter sometimes lets me down which is why I asked for opinions.

 

[MattV]

I would buy something from your local welding supply house; albeit a Miller/Hobart or ESAB.

I'm not convinced on the Canaweld welders being made in Canada. Also their dealer network is awfully small.

For me, a welder is a long-term purchase and cheapest price isn't always the best. Buy something you can get help & parts from locally.

Local isn't really an option, there's only one store and last I looked they charged a pretty big premium for that reason. I suppose I should at least check. My first instinct was to go with the Hobart unit, so I'll probably end up doing that.

 

[bob15]

Also on canaweld's home page it says nothing about "made in Canada". it only says:

Canaweld designs assemble packages and tests all our machines in Canada. We are located in Vaughan Ontario.

Also funny that when you do a search of canaweld, there is almost nothing written about it or them. Even on e-bay I see only 4 listed, even under completed auctions.

I think ESAB or Hobart is a better choice.

FYI, I believe that Hobart you listed is also made in china.....at least according to both Grainger/Zoro & MSC which are typically correct

 

[BlitzcrankJapan]

Pretty much all of the stuff designed and made for ESAB North America is made in china. Just for your guys information.
Definitely a step below the rest of ESAB's real industrial line of welding equipment.

 

[lis2323]

Also on canaweld's home page it says nothing about "made in Canada". it only says:

Canaweld designs assemble packages and tests all our machines in Canada. We are located in Vaughan Ontario.

Agreed. I can pretty much guarantee it's not "made in Canada"


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[dnschmidt]

A cheap TIG either Primeweld or AHp are he way to go. Both of these are fine stick welders with both AC and DC capability with the only problem being that neither of them will do 6010. Both run fine on 6011and 7018. You may never use TIG but it's great to have that as an option because as has already been mentioned stick ***** at thin stuff which is were TIG excels.

 

[lis2323]

I don't think NON 6010 should be a deal breaker for anyone in similar circumstances looking for a welder such as the OP.


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[sberry]

I actually like 11 better, i think it restarts better. 1 use 1/8 down to 16 ga. A lot of guys try to use 6013 but,,,, the current requirements are higher than 11. I use a little 3/32 if i have to but fall back to the 1/8 the same way i been doing for decades. The larger electrode bridges gaps a bit easier and is more forgiving about arc length.

 

[MJD1]

A cheap TIG either Primeweld or AHp are he way to go. Both of these are fine stick welders with both AC and DC capability with the only problem being that neither of them will do 6010. Both run fine on 6011and 7018. You may never use TIG but it's great to have that as an option because as has already been mentioned stick ***** at thin stuff which is were TIG excels.

6010 isn't a deal breaker, with that being said , the primeweld will run 6010 electrode.

 

[Wamsutta]

Doesn't your garage have a 220 outlet to run the dryer?

 

[MattV]

Doesn't your garage have a 220 outlet to run the dryer?

The dryer isn't in the garage

 

[Wamsutta]

The dryer isn't in the garage

Well in that case you'll have to buy one of the power inverter machines and they cost a great deal more. With 220V, you could've bought a simple transformer based machine.

 

[sberry]

A dvi Everlast cost less. Under 300 and now quite well proven. I suspect the same macine is sold under many different brands. It will run 1/8 6011 and 3/32 7018 from 120v/20A.

 

[MattV]

A dvi Everlast cost less. Under 300 and now quite well proven. I suspect the same macine is sold under many different brands. It will run 1/8 6011 and 3/32 7018 from 120v/20A.

Looks like they have some really affordable machines that fit what I'm looking for, but the prices seem a little too good to be true? Looks like there's lots of real life reviews available, I'll read a bit. Are they actually a reliable machine?

 

[Jazz1]

I would buy name brand from welding shop as parts will be available. The extra money on a quality unit may last a lifetime. This goes for any electrical tools. IMO

 

[seber]

Of those listed, the Hobart is the only one I'd consider. As to reliability, I've been using an inverter for 15 years without a hiccup. I doubt you could do that with a made in china unit. If The price of the Esab doesn't scare you, I'd consider the Lincoln Invertec® V155-S Stick Welder - K2605-1. I tried it at a show recently and it blew away the Esab altogether. Plus it's made in North America so like the Hobart, you can get parts.

 

[Notgrownup]

I just bought a Lincoln Promig 140 . I loaded a roll of flux core wire to practice and not waste my gas. I did buy regular wire and fluxcore, some new tips, Hobart Inventor mask that works great..picking up a cheap welding table today from HF. I’m happy
I did buy it from my son in law so I got a deal and he gave me a cart with it.

 

[sberry]

I am a Hobart fan but there is a guy hits this forum said they bought 5 Everlast to replace little Maxstars. Said they work as good and last 3 years so far with regular use.
I got to wonder about some basic math sometimes. As for wondering how long it lasts,,, would be different if the both cost the same but 1 is 250$ and the other is 1100$ so we need to get a grip,, what if it only lasts for a "few years" I would hate to replace it etc???
I got a bud ran the snot out of a 500$ machine for 5 years, was trying to find parts, was looking for for 300$ part,,, so compulsive junk saver couldn't grasp,,, every part available,, new,, assembled,, with warranty. , 500$ ha

 

[MattV]

Of those listed, the Hobart is the only one I'd consider. As to reliability, I've been using an inverter for 15 years without a hiccup. I doubt you could do that with a made in china unit. If The price of the Esab doesn't scare you, I'd consider the Lincoln Invertec® V155-S Stick Welder - K2605-1. I tried it at a show recently and it blew away the Esab altogether. Plus it's made in North America so like the Hobart, you can get parts.

Unfortunately at the prices I'm seeing, i could by an esab and Hobart machine together for similar cost. I don't have the disposable income to drop on that anytime soon and part of the reason I'm looking at tve ones I am is it helps me get set up sooner. Out of curiosity, what kind of inverter do you have that's lasted you 15 years?

I am a Hobart fan but there is a guy hits this forum said they bought 5 Everlast to replace little Maxstars. Said they work as good and last 3 years so far with regular use.
I got to wonder about some basic math sometimes. As for wondering how long it lasts,,, would be different if the both cost the same but 1 is 250$ and the other is 1100$ so we need to get a grip,, what if it only lasts for a "few years" I would hate to replace it etc???
I got a bud ran the snot out of a 500$ machine for 5 years, was trying to find parts, was looking for for 300$ part,,, so compulsive junk saver couldn't grasp,,, every part available,, new,, assembled,, with warranty. , 500$ ha

Compared to the Hobart stickmate, Everlast sells a 200amp machine that's tig capable for about $75 less so while the machine is more capable, the price difference is modest. I've read some reviews of the Everlast welders and while there are plenty of people happy with their purchase, there are tons of stories of their products have issues day one, and it seems that it can take months to resolve. I'm hoping for something that will last 10+ years of modest use and I'm not convinced I would get that in an Everlast.

 

[MattV]

Duplicate post

 

[PhantomEB]

I have run a Miller 175 on 220V for probably 20 yrs in my hobby shop. Sheet metal up to 1/4” no problem. Doubt many of us see more than that in our garages.

My next one will either be the ESAB Rebel 215 all in one machine but at the same time I got no issue bucking up for a Miller 211 auto set, dual voltage unit then a Chinese TIG/Arc machine to practice with for work.

 

[sberry]

Most of the Everlast stories are old. It took them a while but I think they have come up to speed. Ya, my bud with the 500$ one said,, I should have got the Miller,, ya, in 50 years he could have broke even if the Miller never needed a repair.
There are places the better machine makes sense, some places the cost difference is irrelevant but this it to the op, concerning his situation get one of these econo dvi and get started today, see where it goes, 3 years warranty makes it 100$ a year investment if it only lasts that, chances are good it goes a lot longer.

 

[MattV]

Most of the Everlast stories are old. It took them a while but I think they have come up to speed. Ya, my bud with the 500$ one said,, I should have got the Miller,, ya, in 50 years he could have broke even if the Miller never needed a repair.
There are places the better machine makes sense, some places the cost difference is irrelevant but this it to the op, concerning his situation get one of these econo dvi and get started today, see where it goes, 3 years warranty makes it 100$ a year investment if it only lasts that, chances are good it goes a lot longer.

True most of the horror stories are older. You've definitely piqued my interest. I have a month or two of saving my "allowances" before I pick something so plenty of time to keep researching. The everlast machines in my price range have much better specs than a thunderbolt or stickmate, and they've got pretty glowing reviews regarding performance. Still seems like they have a higher failure rate than Miller etc. (Expected and understandable) and don't seem to have a great infrastructure in place for warranty work. I guess it comes down to whether I'm willing to roll the dice on that or not. Realistically the poor reviews I've read make up a pretty miniscule percentage of the units they've sold and people with a bad experience do tend to be more vocal, but I've been bit before...

Thanks for the recommendation and I'd appreciate any more info you have, especially if your friend has ever had to deal with customer support.

 

[seber]

Unfortunately at the prices I'm seeing, i could by an esab and Hobart machine together for similar cost. I don't have the disposable income to drop on that anytime soon and part of the reason I'm looking at tve ones I am is it helps me get set up sooner. Out of curiosity, what kind of inverter do you have that's lasted you 15 years?

The Lincoln lists for about $75 more than the Esab. Where are you looking?