Help me pick out new smoke detectors

[ovilla]

I have over a dozen hardwired (battery backup) smoke detectors in my house that keep going off. Yes, I've tried to pinpoint which one it is to no avail. I even put a new battery in each one and that didn't make a difference. I think that they are all just old now and need to be swapped out. They're all over 10 years old now and I'm sure that the new construction house must have added to the dust content in each one too. Anyway these will be installed in a basement and 1st and 2nd floors.

Any recommendations as to which ones to get? There seems to be so many brands out there now at Home Depot and Lowes, which I've never heard of. I just want to make sure that they can easily have a battery replaced, as needed. Also, I'd like to get three that are smoke an CO2 combo units (must be hardwired too). By the way, in my town it's code to have one in each room of the house.

Thanks


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[D Ellefson]

Did you try cleaning them yet? My house has three hardwired detectors which started acting up last year. I looked for replacements but could not identify a direct fit. So I took them down and cleaned them using light compressed air. Haven't made a peep since.

 

[StevePgh]

They're all over 10 years old now and I'm sure that the new construction house must have added to the dust content in each one too.

Did you try cleaning them yet?

Smoke detectors have a lifespan of 8-10 years [fema.gov], after which they should be replaced. Like suggested in the link, I write the 'expiration' date on them in sharpie on the battery compartment - for hard-wired I'd use a label maker with a small font to mark them where it is somewhat visible. Even if the date is marked, it is usually not in-your-face enough. I wouldn't trust them anymore, so cleaning is out. Not all of us have pet chickens...

 

[Rebelphotog]

My personal preference would be to get a smoke detector that has both photoelectric and ionization sensors. This offers a greater level of warning for a fire. I would then get separate CO detectors. It can be a little more expensive, but you also don't necessarily need as many CO detectors as you do smoke detectors, unless it's required by local code (here it is not).

I also typically prefer CO detectors to not be on the ceiling. While this is acceptable, and CO can rise, I prefer the detectors to be in the area ranging between a couple of feet off the floor to a couple of feet off the ceiling. This puts the detector more in the air space a person will be normally spending time in, whether lying down, sitting, or standing up, as opposed to above or below their head.

This is all just my opinion. Everyone will have their own ideas about this. Even in the various firefighting classes and seminars I've been in on the topic of CO, there's not been a solid perfect answer. This method makes sense to me though and it's the one I use.

 

[TheGunCollector]

I was having issues with false alarms, and after an exhaustive search, it seems pretty common. I'm pissed because the false alarms usually occur at 2am, and one of my detectors is about 30' off the ground on a vaulted ceiling.

I have Kiddie, and have thought about using some women's ***** hose to use as a screen for dust, and in my case, might be random bugs/daddy long leg spiders setting off the alarm.

 

[apa]

I never used smoke detectors in my home since. I never had problems with fire before, but you never know. I have one question (altough it might be a bit offtopic). Is the OP home made of wood?

@Rebelphotog can you recommend me a good smoke detector with photoelectric and ionization (both). I'm not interested for me at the moment, rather some friends. That's why I got in this topic - they want to replace their smokey detectors with something good, but neither them or me know much about this subject.

Thanks!

 

[ovilla]

Yes my home is made of wood and drywall.


Thanks everyone for the feedback too. I agree that the CO2 sensor should be separate. Makes much more sense to me too now.

 

[Lurch67]

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/co-and-smoke-alarms.htm

You want a smoke detector in the kitchen that only works on flames not smoke to reduce false alarms. Consumer reports gives a few good pointers. Also I would still with one brand if they are interconnected.

 

[BMW Rider]

Some good advice all ready posted, I'll add mine.

At ten years, the detectors are certainly past their life span. New detectors will have a replacement date marked on the face of the unit as per the most recent NFPA standards so there is no doubt as to when to replace them. Deffinitly go with the dual sensor type, each type has weaknesses at detecting certain types of fire conditions so having both gives you increased protection.

I presume that your detectors are all interconnected, so its generally best to use all of the same brand to ensure the best compatability. I like the idea of having a combined CO detector for at least one of the detectors as that will give you the best chance of hearing the CO alarm anywhere in the home since it will activate all the detectors. You can still have a seperate CO alarm if you wish. It isn't really critical where the CO detector is located as far as detecting CO goes. CO will mix quite freely and quickly throughout the house, there will be higher and lower concentration levels in areas, but it will be almost everywhere. Keep in mind that most residential CO alarms are set to sound at 25ppm which is still a fairly safe tenable level, so even if in some areas the levels are higher, you will still get an alarm well before toxic levels are reached. My reccomendation for seperate CO alarms is to locate them near all sleeping areas to ensure they are heard when the occupants are sleeping.

And don't forget to test the alarms regularly and to check/replace the batteries. Even if they are just backup batteries, they need to be changed at least annually. The exception is the newer detectors with the lifetime batteries that are starting to become more common.

 

[[email protected]]

Check out Gentex Corp. for all your needs.
http://www.gentex.com/fire/products

 

[StevePgh]

Just saw two blog posts from home inspectors talking about CO detectors and CO leaks. Interesting reading. The one thing that I sort of knew was that it takes moderate CO concentrations for a constant time BEFORE they alarm. Alarms are set to go off within 50 minutes at levels up to 150 PPM, and within 15 minutes at levels up to 400 PPM, and they are not allowed to go off at levels of less than 50 (or even read at a level lower than 50 for a digital display). If you were hoping for an immediate alarm for small levels you need to get a specialized detector. This is why it is a good idea to get your gas appliances checked once a year - a calibrated detector for the purposes of finding these smaller leaks is required.

This first link has some interesting pictures of common points where leaks happen.
LOW LEVELS OF CARBON MONOXIDE WILL NOT SET OFF UL LISTED CO ALARMS

So you think you know everything there is to know about CO detectors?

 

[Falcon67]

Our house is 11~12 years old, we replaced all the detectors when we moved in back in 2010. The one in the hall was updated and attached to the house alarm system. That one is wireless and the rest are stand alone. Wiring them up is another project on the list LOL. I also have Kidde CO detectors, one in the main living area and one in the shop. The shop one has a display that starts reading at 30 ppm, per the mfg. specs. I have yet to get the CO that high with the occasional propane heating. The one in the main area is as above, goes off after a long exposure at 130 ppm. The only CO producing appliance in the house is the fireplace.

 

[StevePgh]

The shop one has a display that starts reading at 30 ppm, per the mfg. specs.

I likely have the same unit in my shop. I have a propane heater, and a propane homebrewing setup. The only time I've ever had it alarm was with the garage door open and the car running in the driveway. The tailpipe was just spewing CO into the open garage - If I recall it went from around 400 to 40 then to zero, and it took a good 15 minutes with the car off and both garage doors open for the reading to drop down. When brewing or running the heater, I glance at the reading fairly often and never once saw it off zero.

 

[GarageEnvy]

I'm also smoke detector shopping and am interested in the First Alert onelink series.

http://www.firstalert.com/detectors/battery/onelink-battery

Any thoughts on or experience with these?

 

[where2]

Thanks to the NFPA, I have 4 interconnected units in a space smaller than a one car garage. According to the NFPA, each bedroom needs one, the hallway leading to the bedroom needs one (in my case a stairwell with a 3'x5' landing at the top and 4 doors (three bedrooms and one bath meet at the landing).

I've had two of the four false low battery chirp at 3AM, despite being 120V and 9V powered. Figuring out which one is chirping when there are 4 less than 9 feet apart is a challenge at 3AM. When all 5 interconnected units go off, it's deafening. I set them all off with the BBQ grille one afternoon when I had the windows open.

I give the Lowes First Alert interconnected with light: two thumbs down. Batteries are fine, why start chirping at 3AM?

 

[Rebelphotog]

I'm also smoke detector shopping and am interested in the First Alert onelink series.

http://www.firstalert.com/detectors/battery/onelink-battery

Any thoughts on or experience with these?

I've had two of the four false low battery chirp at 3AM, despite being 120V and 9V powered. Figuring out which one is chirping when there are 4 less than 9 feet apart is a challenge at 3AM. When all 5 interconnected units go off, it's deafening. I set them all off with the BBQ grille one afternoon when I had the windows open.

I give the Lowes First Alert interconnected with light: two thumbs down. Batteries are fine, why start chirping at 3AM?

We have a few apartment buildings in my area that we get called to fairly often for alarms. I have yet to run one of those calls where we found smoke or a fire. The common denominator? They all have interconnected detectors, mostly First Alert, at least one building has Kidde. I don't know why, but for some reason, sometimes they'll just spaz out whether the battery is good or not. Always a PITA trying to figure out which detector is causing the problem.

I certainly see the benefit in an interconnected system, but until they make one reasonably priced that functions as it is intended to without all of the hiccups, I'll pass. My house is small enough that I can hear any smoke detector in the house no matter where I am.

 

[AV tinker er]

I have over a dozen hardwired (battery backup) smoke detectors in my house that keep going off. Yes, I've tried to pinpoint which one it is to no avail. I even put a new battery in each one and that didn't make a difference. I think that they are all just old now and need to be swapped out. They're all over 10 years old now and I'm sure that the new construction house must have added to the dust content in each one too. Anyway these will be installed in a basement and 1st and 2nd floors.

Any recommendations as to which ones to get? There seems to be so many brands out there now at Home Depot and Lowes, which I've never heard of. I just want to make sure that they can easily have a battery replaced, as needed. Also, I'd like to get three that are smoke an CO2 combo units (must be hardwired too). By the way, in my town it's code to have one in each room of the house.

Thanks


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