Help me plan my 32x56

[Arcticcat843]

First of all Hello to everyone. Ive been on this site to read old post and get ideas for years i just have never posted. During that time I have collected pieces and saved money to build my (within reason) dream garage. So now the time is here and i just have to work out some last minute details before i get started. I was originally going to build it myself but do to my job and lack of people to help me, im going to have it roughed up and then im going todo the finish work myself.

Im sure over the course of this I will have a ton of questions but I really need help clearing up a few things before I even get started.

First of all the building is going to have one half attic trusses and one half scissor trusses. In the area with scissor trusses I plan to mount a car lift in the future. The sidewalls are going to be 10 foot, mainly because its going to sit 10 foot from my house and I don't want a huge looking barn towering over my house. Anyways, how it is set up the lift will be close to the back wall of the garage. So basically when you pull a car on it, the car will be going the opposite way of the peak. The exterior roof pitch is going to be 7/12 (again to match the house). Which i believe makes the interior pitch of the scissor trusses about 3.8/12 from my math. What i do know for sure is according to my truss quotes im going to gain 5'1" in the peak and then obviously the space that the interior pitch gains (if that makes sense at all). If you havent figured it out yet, what my concern is, is am i going to have enough room to lift a vehicle. I can mount the lift pretty much anywhere in the 32 foot. (ideally the car would end pretty much centered in the width). I know this isnt a ideal situation and its going to be tight but from my figuring, i think it will work. However before i start to building a huge barn i would like to have a few more peoples opinions. If this doesnt work i dont really have any other options besides giving up my lift ideas or getting a lift that does not lift overhead. I have been thinking that i could get away with a 8/12 pitch and not notice it being off from the house. That would gain me more interior room for sure (something like 16" more on the exterior so 8-10" interior if you figure it at the same proportions.?)

Anyways, what do the experts think? Will it fit with the 7/12 pitch? Will i be able to notice a huge difference if i make it 8/12 and my house is 7/12? The extra space would be nice in my attic room on the front half also.

Thanks in advance I plan to add more questions as i think of them but i need to make a clear decision on this before ordering trusses (which are a month out so i want to get them on there way)

 

[2nrguy]

I would say to go with a 12ft wall height if possible, that would give you more breathing room up top. I'm saying all of this based on the pic I have in my head though, just so you know.

 

[tarmy]

View attachment 448287
This is a 32 by 56 x 10 wall height. My second floor is a game room with about 1100 sq ft.

I am in snow country in California so my stick frame is spectacularly overbuilt. Make sure you think about putting in a hoist...I built in a 20' long I beam to run a 1 ton hoist to lift in and out of pick up...as well as lift waverunner and trailer stuff.

Lots of lites and plugs...and power on ceiling to allow for flexibility over time.

 

[Arcticcat843]

First of all, awesome garage. I would love to see some interior pictures if you have any. Im basically trying todo exactly what your saying, over think and plan for the future. My builder originally wanted todo a stick build but concrete and footer costs drive the price way out of my budget. It would be almost 15k more for stick built, even figuring in savings in labor costs. It also limits what I can do in the concrete like drains and electrical due to code requirements that i wont have to deal with in a pole building.

Here is my design as of right now. I have tweaked this plan for over 3 years while planning this so needless to say, im more than ready to get started on it.







The upstairs room is obviously not in the drawing. I havent planed the upstairs to much yet. I plan on a small office type area and then a gunsmithing and reloading area. Im not 100% set on the spiral stairs yet but I like the sq feet the save as well as the wall space vs conventional stairs. I plan on a open railing kind of overlooking the back area where the lift is. Im thinking deck style railing and maybe a removable section so i can lift larger items up there with my tractor.
This leads to my next issue. The trusses are going to be 24 on center. obviously, i need more room than that for my stairs to come up. As in i need a break with no trusses 6ish foot wide where im transitioning from attic to scissor trusses. As of right now my idea is to basically romove 2 trusses out of that space and then use 2x8s and joist hangers on 24 inch centers in the opening. Something similar to what they would do on a barn with 8' center trusses. I have no idea if this is legal or what my inspector is going to say about it but i really dont see another way todo it. Any ideas would be awesome.

Also, my step brother owns a small auto shop and while I was there today I did some measuring of a car on his lift. It looks like i need almost 12' exactly and i need a 16' long space at that height. From my figuring, im going to have 12'6"-12'8" for that entire 16 foot span. So basically i could lift a 16 foot long square on up to full height. So when you figure in the slope of a windshield a and back window (or bed of a truck) i should have tons of room. Just for kicks i went out and had menards do a truss quote for 8/12 vs the 7/12 quote I currently have just to see how big of difference it makes.

 

[tarmy]

View attachment 448564
I will post a couple more photos...I can never get more than 1 to load at a time. This shows the I beam and power, air filter for over would working area, power reels, and plugs on the ceiling for working on boats when they are in.

 

[tarmy]

View attachment 448567

This one has a lot of info. Note the wall near garage door...there is a 220 plug and 110 so I can run the welder, vac etc in the driveway or that end of garage.

High plug and cable for big screen...and lots of plugs with 20A plugs over workbench...use a couple of circuits.

On the wall next the the man door is several banks of switches. One set for outside power and floodlites, one bank for interior ( lots of power there for about 20 overhead T 5 HO liters), one bank for floodlites in exterior trees and accent lighting on building.

I had my floors poured fairly flat so I can push large tools around...and NO dip or lip at the garage door...so I can roll table saw, boat trailers etc outside and back in by hand.

 

[tarmy]

View attachment 448571

 

[Arcticcat843]

So I got my quote back today. It was basically for a roughed in structure because I planned todo the rest of the work myself. No windows installed, door openings roughed in not finished. No alm soffit for fasica and no siding. So basically posts set, trusses set, shingle roof installed and sides sheeted. 11,000. Seems high to me when I hear about people In my area getting a 30x40 steel barn installed with materials and all for the same price. What do you guys think.

 

[matt_i]

More info needed, area of the country, is any concrete included, or is trampled grass going to be growing inside the building.

 

[Arcticcat843]

That price does not include any concrete or concrete labor. That is also no materials. That price is with me having all materials present before they get here. That is also no dirt work, I already had 50 yards of dirt brought in and have a reasonably flat and level area marked out.

Located in sw Michigan

 

[Arcticcat843]

Got another quote today for the exact same work $5500 that is a little closer to what I was expecting.