To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Help me plan / properly execute my garage overhaul :-)

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
So, I recently purchased a property w/ 2.2 acres up in Owings Mills, MD with my wife.

Before I bought the house, I rented a 24x27 garage in which I could do engine swaps and other modification work. I have the lease there until April 2015.

With that said, I really need to think about what I can do to the garage at the new place by that time. I can't spend a whole lot of cash since I need to focus on putting a new roof on the house and some other odds and ends. I am hoping you guys can help me ball park pricing for what I'd like to do or tell me i'm an idiot and I can't do it the way I want, etc.

So anyway, info on the current garage at the new place
- it has one electrical outlet... ONE!
- one receptacle in the outlet is used by the garage door opener (which works, thankfully)
- the other, i had used for my work light until I replaced the fluorescent bulbs in the overhead lights recently
- the garage is L shaped because of a big *** tree preventing one from building a rectangle... I'll need to cut that tree down at some point to do what I want to do
- The garage floor looks like it is part of the driveway... as in whoever it was just built a frame over part of the driveway. It has like a -15 degree grade so things w/ wheels such as engine hoists will roll on their own, making heavy repair work almost impossible.

Plans for the new garage

- Run a main from the utility company to bring in 120 and 240 & install breaker panel(s)
- Hook up plumbing drain to septic system
- Hook up water supply hot and cold from house
- Have a 30' x 60' slab of concrete or other, flat, level flooring that is fluid, temperature, and pressure resistant
- Get at least a two post lift in there.. i typically work on import hondas, so 3000 lbs max weight is plenty
- I need to fit a craftsman air compressor (upright), engine stand, workbench, cherry picker, Millermatic 180, as well as a nice rolling tool chest and some shelves and cabinets in there as well as 4 cars. Two of these cars will be involved in a massive car project in which they'll need to be placed one in front of the other, on stands, potentially on one big frame jig.
- I would like to some day add a second floor which will be the man cave... you know... HDTV, beer fridge, couch, mini bar maybe... tap room, definitely a bathroom!
- One wall may eventually be shared with an in-law suite, so I am looking for input on how to sound proof this wall. I need to be able to have a compressor on full blast and have a sleeping person undisturbed beyond the wall

So, on to immediate concerns:

- Do i need to rip up the asphalt floor to pour the concrete or can I clean the asphalt and pour concrete on top?
- I have read that the concrete slab must be separated from the brick forming the walls... Could I pour a slab to replace the current floor and pour a slab outside the current structure on which I could park additional cars and then someday build a structure over both and then seal the gaps between the slabs w/ additional concrete?
- How easy is it to regrade land? To pour the outdoor concrete slab, I know I need to regrade it to make the land levelish before putting down gravel and such, but do I need special tools for this or can it be done w/ basic hand tools?
- Concerning the asphalt, how do I properly cut into the asphalt to preserve the section of driveway leading up the garage, but dig up the section of driveway in the garage (assuming it has to come up before concrete pour)?

More questions to come, haha!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

lowbucktruck

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2010
Messages
1,323
Location
Foothills, Northern California
Grid paper is your friend. Since your new garage at your new home is L-shaped, does that mean there is a garage door at both ends?

If the garage was built as you suggest, just on top of the existing driveway pad and not on a proper slab, then it sounds like there are no stem walls? We need some pics.
 
Last edited:
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
I really do need to get on those pictures... I just got back from a trip to the smoky mts, so i'll try to snap a few some time this week.

As for group buys, i'm a fan of cost sharing. hell, my side business is automotive specialty tool rental.

I'll have to look up what stem walls are, but you're probably right.
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
Oh, and there is another door opposite of the front garage door. The front garage door is a 2 car wide while the rear is almost a single? I think I might be able to fit a car through it, but haven't measured/tried. It looks to be more for a john deere or something.
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
Welp, so I found out today that attached and detached garages can be a maximum of 900 SQ FT :-(

I wonder if there's a way I can make this qualify as some other type of building to be able to get more space...
 

thefultonhow

Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2014
Messages
9
Location
Baltimore, MD
Where did you find this? I was considering building a 24x40 in my backyard, and I didn't see any such restriction on any of the Baltimore County web sites...
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
Well, I was going to say it was in 124.5 of the building codes... and then i looked up and saw that section 124 applies to "Areas Subject to Tidal Flooding" which I don't believe the place falls into.

This means I still have hope, haha!

I have to put a call into the building code review board to just see if my idea will fly at all before spending the time on plans and all the work involved getting it ready.
 

thefultonhow

Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2014
Messages
9
Location
Baltimore, MD
Yeah, Baltimore County has some areas that border the Chesapeake Bay, so that's probably why that section is in there. Needless to say, it doesn't really apply to Owings Mills. ;)
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
I thought about moonlighting for a contractor to maybe learn how to properly mix/pour concrete, significantly regrade land, lay below ground septic piping, water supply piping, and anything else they might dabble in...
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
So I emailed an architect buddy of mine and it looks as though I might be limited to 15' ceiling height if I am going to go detached. Also, if I go detached, it has to be in the 1/3 of the lot that is farthest from both streets (since my place is a corner lot). With that said, my 1,800 sq. ft. dream would only take up 5.6% of that third, which is far less than their limit of 40%.

I still need to get my buddy the plat so he can give me some more concrete info.

Here's hoping I don't have to demolish the onsite tennis court to go the detached route.
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
And now... pictures!

A shot of the front as she stands now... at night b/c i get home after the sun goes down a lot, heh.



A shot of the current flooring in the garage.



A shot of that almost full car width rear garage door.



A shot of my one outlet in the entire structure!



A shot of the bubble level on the brickwork of the foundation.



A shot of the bubble level on that asphalt flooring lol



A shot of one of the two non-functional exhaust fans...



A sort of isometric view of the right angle into the garage, currently blocked in by a tree on the outside.

 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
So, I finally was able to get the plat scanned in, but as a PDF. Apparently, it doesn't work as an image. I'll have to convert the files.
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
Another question I had is: what special considerations should I make about the garage flooring/walls/ventilation if I will be:

- doing chassis MIG welding/roll cages
- potentially doing some paint work in the future (really unlikely, but maybe i should plan for it...)
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

jimgood

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
2,394
Location
Marshall, VA
Open the PDF and get as much of the plat in the viewable area of your screen as you can. Do a print screen of it (this is usually Ctrl + PRTSC or something like that). The open MS Paint and do Ctrl + v to paste the screen print. Click File > Save and make sure you select jpeg as the file type. Upload the saved jpeg. Do a happy dance.
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
yup... ended up using snagit. I can't access any of the file shares at work, so it'll have to wait until i get home.
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
So we actually measured the perimeter of the fence surrounding the tennis court. The short side is 60 ft, so we definitely have space for the garage assuming:

- AT&T has no issue w/ their right of way
- I can somehow locate the septic leach field/dry wells so that we can maintain the 20 foot clearance from the septic stuff to the new construction. I am hopeful that the seller's agent can contact the seller and ask him who installed the septic as he built the house we just bought.

We shall see!
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
So the septic guy never showed and later called saying that there was a special service for locating the septic system components... He supplied a phone number to call. D'oh!

Looks like the planning is going to get delayed yet again.

On top of that, in my current, new garage, I have actually experienced jack stands sinking into the asphalt flooring. Since, more likely than not, my dream garage build is 5 years or so out, I am seriously looking at maybe renting a demo saw and cutting up the asphalt floor, regrading with gravel, and then having a concrete contractor pour the new slab in the garage as a temporary bandaid garage solution.
 

tomshep

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2011
Messages
441
Always use some small plywood pads under jack stands when on asphalt.

I would put very little money into what you have. And don't go near that AT&T easement with you new garage. I looks like you can go to the right of the tennis court opposite the easement with a detached. That would be my focus.

Tom
 

tomshep

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2011
Messages
441
Actually, after looking at your plat again I can't believe your current garage is built over that AT&T easement. I can't believe you got title insurance coverage. Was the garage built after the home?

Tom
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
Most likely, the garage was built after the home... I mean, why else would it be asphalt and on a terrible grade? It's like they built it over the driveway.
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
Always use some small plywood pads under jack stands when on asphalt.

I would put very little money into what you have. And don't go near that AT&T easement with you new garage. I looks like you can go to the right of the tennis court opposite the easement with a detached. That would be my focus.

Tom

Yeah... some plywood pieces ziptied to the stands will be my solution to that issue. We'll see how the hoist does pulling the engine out tonight. It seems to roll OK and not roll down the hill since there are enough places for the wheels to "sit" once I pull it to a stop.
 

zcar751

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
831
Location
Knoxville, TN
If it is a temporary fix you are looking for on your floor, leave the asphalt and pour 2 - 3 inches of concrete on top of it. that should give you enough for stability of the concrete and let you level the place a little better. If you plan on raising the structure in the near future use the fiber re-enforced concrete and skip the wire mesh so when you go to take it out you will be able to bust it up. With the load you have on it other than curing cracks you shouldn't have any real problem.
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
here's the interesting part... the structure IS level... it's just the floor that isn't. So it's like I'd need over a foot of concrete thickness in the "back" of the garage while the front would maybe just be whatever the minimum thickness is...

I may forego the floor thing if I can do engine swaps and stuff in here easily enough. The bigger issue may be storage once I lose the lease at my other garage. I need to find space for an air compressor, engine stand, a couple of spare engines, body panels, etc. I might hit up pinterest and other posts on here regarding efficient use of space.
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
So, as it turns out, the septic tank starts 3 ft below the ground and ends 6-7 ft below ground. This means that the environmental group would have to bring in a backhoe to excavate the outlet of the tank and the distribution box so they can run their camera. This would run $3875!!

They suggested that if I got a bunch of burly dudes, we could excavate the outlet and the distro box ourselves and then pay the environmental group $700 to run the camera.

In other news, I discovered mold in the basement of the house and this weird red liquid leaking from the exhaust of the heat pump... Those new issues have trumped outdoor stuff.
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
So I ended up demo-ing the asphalt floor up front and pouring a new pad... I have to wait until mid-March to even think about coating it with the 100% solid epoxy I'd like to use.

If that happens on time, then I can maybe start dealing with the insulation and lack of electrical/lighting.

I had the foresight to install a 3" 90 conduit piece for running a main from the house to a TBD breaker box that will be installed in the garage in the future.

10408101_10100141132271803_3929093764511639074_n.jpg


https://scontent-lga.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10985616_10100147763577613_7198022647384899057_n.jpg?oh=0c798f9bcc47a300244c15a5119cf188&oe=5588A26C

Here's a pic of the floor coating I'd like that a buddy used...

https://scontent-lga.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10665782_10100145309770063_3557442189278874701_n.jpg?oh=f12e04bbdcfee6e0fa675bbb8e8cb819&oe=55802F1E
 

rburke65

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
I think I'd be looking at a tennis court size garage....as big as you can afford and then you can finish it. And yes, I'm betting ATT won't be nice.......that's theirs to do with what they wish I believe. Good luck!
 
OP
T

TurboLS

Active member
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
26
Well, the tennis court sized garage is like $100k investment. That's not possible for like ten years or so.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom