Help me troubleshoot this heater please.

[Andy Griffith]

I have a Dayton electric utility heater in my detached shop. Model 3UG73. 240V. 5000 W @ 17,065 btu. (4165, 3332, and 2500W available if desired). It’s hung from the bottom of a 12’ high rafter and hardwired to a dedicated breaker in the panel.

Installed in 1997. Quit working several years ago and I’m just now getting around to fixing it.

It’s this one:
http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Electric-Utility-Heater-3UG73#reviews

Link to manual, wiring diagram on page 4.
http://www.grainger.com/ec/pdf/3UG73_1.pdf

Yesterday I verified that there is power at the heater (at the power terminal block). Then verified there was power going to the thermostat. And finally verified that when the thermostat is turned on there is power coming off the other side of the thermostat.

At that point I attempted to look at the element, the high limit switch, and the fan control switch. However to do so requires the front of the heater to come out from the housing in one unit and there is precious little wire allowed to get said unit away from the main unit to work on it (if that made any sense).

I stopped at that point as I was working above my head off an 8’ ladder and could not hold (secure) the element assembly and probe at the same time. I’m going to have to take the heater down off the rafter to safely work on it further.

In the meantime I wanted see if any of you guys have experience with this type of heater and if you have any suggestions on how to proceed?

It looks like the only parts that Grainger carries for this heater are the fan blade, thermostat and motor. Maybe the element and other bits could be sourced elsewhere.

And not to get ahead of myself but if it turns out that this heater is not repairable, I need to replace it, and do so quickly. Yes, it needs to be an electric heater (long story). As mentioned before there is a dedicated circuit available. Are any of you using an electric heater you would recommend with roughly the equivalent (or better) output of this unit?

Thanks

 

[deckmonkey]

Does quit working mean no heat from element, no fan or both? The manual says there's a fan delay until the element heats up so it won't run if the element is gone.

The obvious is make sure there's 220 v or 221, whatever it takes, at the heater. You can do an amp test at the panel and a resistance test on the element.

The manual lists parts numbers for all the parts as well.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Does quit working mean no heat from element, no fan or both? The manual says there's a fan delay until the element heats up so it won't run if the element is gone.

The obvious is make sure there's 220 v or 221, whatever it takes, at the heater. You can do an amp test at the panel and a resistance test on the element.

The manual lists parts numbers for all the parts as well.

 

[Falcon67]

I have the same heater, had it for probably 10~12 years now. Works good, even after dropping it from 8' in the air once. Very simple to wire and operate. First I'd check your incoming power, then jumper around the thermostat as that seems to be a failure item. The t-stat usually makes a soft "pop" when you turn the knob up past the ambient temp. If it doesn't make any noise, that's likely the issue. Next would be the overtemp switches. And yes, it takes 2-3 minutes to warm to the point that the fan will start, the colder it is the longer it takes.

 

[nadogail]

How difficult will it be to set the heater on a bench and work on it there?

That is what I would do if this were heating my shop.

 

[Andy Griffith]

How difficult will it be to set the heater on a bench and work on it there?
That is what I would do if this were heating my shop.

That's what I need to do before doing anymore troubleshooting.

As I mentioned in the OP I was able to confirm there is power at the heater.

There is power to the thermostat. When the dial is in the off position there is no power to the outgoing side of the thermostat. Turn the dial and there is a click and then power going out of the thermostat is confirmed but the element doesn't light.

Once I get the whole thing down on the bench I can pull that grill/switches/element assembly out the front of the case and have a look. I suspect the element is bad.

Started looking around for a replacement element to see if any are available. Called grainger since that's where I purchased the unit years ago. They said they don't have any elements and they would need to contact the manufacture to see if any were even available.

I don't have a corporate account with grainger anymore so I can't buy from them anyway.

Grainger suggested I contact the manufacture directly and inquire about availability. I look up Dayton and find that...

Dayton is a W.W. Grainger Company. Therefore their products are only available at Grainger.

Learn something new every day.

Thanks for all the replies.