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Help Me Understand Metal Types

Bricago

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Mar 2, 2013
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I'm beginning a toolbox restoration project, and I need some clarification on metal types. It's a typical Craftsman toolbox with the oval logo. What kind of metals are the box and the latch? Sheet metal, steel, stainless steel, or something else? I'd like to remove some of the dents and creases in it, so any advice would be appreciated regarding hammering technique, heat guns, etc. (I know the handle is plastic.)

IMG_2604.jpg



I saw this display the other day, and I'd like to know what the differences between mild steel, High Speed Steel, and stainless steel are and how you know them when you see them. Also, why is a cobalt bit recommended for mild steel, but not for sheet metal?


Drill_Bit_Guide_copy.jpg


Thanks for your advice.
 
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dr_clyde

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Well, I can comment some on the twist drills. Any of the bits shown will work, although I wouldn't buy craftsman drills. You'll get more drill for your money at a proper industrial supply. Proper lubrication, as well as appropriate feeds and speeds will do more for any drilling task than bit material. That said, there are some brands that are higher quality than others. I would recommend a set of Consolidated Toledo Drills. They are high quality, American made, and the OEM for many brands, including popular ones such as Norseman.

Put simply:

High speed steel is a flavor of tool steel. It is the standard kind steel that most inexpensive metal cutting tools are made from. Twist drills, milling cutters, lathe tool blanks, and so on. HSS will work fine for most home shop tasks.

Titanium drills. This is a coating of Titanium nitride over a HSS drill, and despite what the marketing would lead you to believe, the drill is not made of solid titanium. To properly utilize this, you generally need to be doing some repetitive machining task. The payback in tool life isn't usually seen outside of a machine shop because the drill will usually break before it actually wears through the coating.

Black oxide drills. These again are HSS drills with a coating. This coating is supposed to resist corrosion and slow the wear on the drill. My experience is that this is really only beneficial in a controlled environment, and generally not worth the extra cost.

Cobalt drills. These bits are harder than HSS, and will handle drilling tasks that are more demanding, particularly stainless steel. I would consider these if I was drilling a quantity of stainless, otherwise, HSS will be easier to sharpen and maintain for general purpose drilling.

As far as sheet metal vs plate or block, the difference is in the grind.Depending on hole size and sheet metal condition, sheet metal drilling with a twist drill is prone to pentagonal holes or the drill snagging a burr and pulling the drill in. A properly ground and relieved bit won't do this. If the hole is over 1/4", I would use a step-drill, because the cutter geometry yields a more round hole, and a smaller burr.
 

dr_clyde

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Also, on the materials.

Your toolbox is mild steel sheet metal. Just about any metal can be made into sheet metal.

Mild steel is the term used for just about every low carbon steel you will encounter in the wild. Chances are good, if its rusty, painted, has a scaly surface, or is in some way coated, its mild steel. Also, a magnet will stick to mild steel.

Stainless steel is usually found in environemnts where corrosion is a problem. Food service, marine, food and beverage production, and outdoor applications. It generally isn't painted, and sometimes has a decorative finish, like a brushed or polished texture. The most common stainless, the austinetic 300 series is non magnetic. However, some common stainless objects, such as cutlery, are made from a martensitic or ferritic stainless steel, so they are magnetic. Don't always trust a magnet.

High speed steel, like I said before, is a tool steel. You generally won't find things made out of it that were not intended to be used as tools. When I say tools, I mean cutting tools, not wrenches. Things like mills, drills, and so on.
 

Fyrme

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That handle is NOT plastic, Heck, I don't think they even used any plastics on tools in the 50's era of the box. Bakelite was the "plastic" of that era. It's either aluminum or stainless steel. The latch is likely a nickel or zinc plated stamped sheet metal.
 
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Bricago

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Thank you Dr. Clyde. I appreciate the reply. I'll look into getting a set of the Consolidated Toledo Drills.

Do you have a recommendation for drilling lubrication? Particularly for drilling out the rivets on this toolbox?
 

dr_clyde

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For mild steel, just about any cutting fluid will work. I use Union Butterfield Drill and Tap fluid for general purpose drilling and cutting.

Tap magic, tapmatic, rapid tap, all of these will work fine. It doesn't take much. Just dip the drill tip in it before every hole, more frequently if its a deep hole.
 

Kevin54

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Sheet metal is just what is says....a sheet of metal. You can get most metals is most ways, which is.....sheet, plate, bar, or tube. Then you have the different processes, which is hot rolled, cold rolled, extruded, cast, forged, and so on.

Normally the difference between sheet and plate, is the thickness. Some of that will depend on the manufacturer where they want to make the dividing line at. Some will say that a 4'x8'x.125 thick is a piece of sheet metal, and may call a piece of 4'x'8'x.187 a plate. I have always used 1/4" as sort of the dividing line between sheet and plate, when ordering material, and found it in a lot of catalogs the same way. And some of it also depends on how it comes from the manufacturer. There is not really a cut in stone dividing line on where sheet stops and plate starts. A lot of times, sheet will not be called out in thickness like 1/16", 3/32" but instead will be classified in Gage sizes like 26 Ga., 16 Ga., and so on.

about the best way to find out where the differences separate is go to a site for materials, say like Central Steel & Wire, or Copper & Brass, and see how the materials are listed.

Ideally, if you want to find out about materials and their differences, there are a lot of website places if you do a search, you have your local library, you can always spend $50 and pick up a Machinery Handbook which will have more information that your brain will ever hold, or pick up a magazine like Home Shop Machinist, the Machinist Workshop, and look at some of the many publications they advertise in the backs of them. Plus the articles are pretty good also.

But to just ask for clarification of metal types, covers a very, very, broad field. It's not as simple as a one or two paragraph explanation, unless you just want to know what your tool box is most likely made FROM. But to explain material differences covers a lot, and the best thing to do is just start reading different machining books, magazines, and websites, then when you read something and have a question on the terminology, just do a search to see where that leads you.

And don't take it wrong, I'm not trying to discourage you on here, but there is a lot to know, and too much to type out unless it was for something specific.

Ad far as your particular toolbox, it can be answered simply as the box is most likely made out of 1018 Cold rolled sheet metal of whatever thickness it is. Or to sound more technical, it is made of a low carbon sheet steel. And to expand on that, it was die formed from a piece of low carbon 1018 steel sheet.

A simple piece of metal can take many forms (no pun intended) depending on who you ask and how simple or complicated of an answer you want.
 

theoldwizard1

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Steel and most metals are "alloys". In other words they are "mixtures" of a base metal (iron for steel and aluminum for ... aluminum) and small PRECISE amounts of different pure elements (carbon, chromium, tungsten, etc) mixed in, at the right time while the base metal is still molten.

Steel today requires very careful chemistry. After the alloy elements are added and given time to combine a sample of the molten metal is taken, cooled and analysed to be certain it meets the specification.

There are many different "grades" of steels. Maybe a dozen or more "stainless" steels (ones that provide better corrosion resistance, better to polish or low cost). The numbers (1018, 1020, etc) are industry standards for how much of each additional element is added


One of the odd things about making steel, in the "raw" form (iron ore or scrap steel) there is almost always too much carbon or the carbon is too large or not properly mixed. A "blast furnace" blasts air into the molten iron to burn off the unwanted carbon. Then a small precise amount is added back.

The aluminum used in the new Ford F150 is a relatively new alloy that Alcoa invented for the military, 7085.

Coatings and heat treating processes make a huge difference in metal also.
 
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kazlx

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That box is made out of the most basic materials. Stamped sheet steel and the handle looks to be aluminum. The latch is just plated, probably nickel or chrome. You can drill the rivets out with pretty much any drill bit. Buy some crappy drill bits, so when you buy some Norseman or Precision Twist, you will appreciate how well they work. You can drill those rivets dry...or with WD-40, or motor oil. It won't matter.
 

airrj

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Bricago,

This video is geared towards machinist and is fairly detailed, but I find Marc to be easy to understand and logical in his explanations. Check it out:

The Lazy Machinist: Introduction to Ferrous Metals


Hope this helps.

R.J.
 

CudaChick1968

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I love this place. :D Great advice and explanations gentlemen!

Bricago, you'll find that sheet metal pretty easy to work with but please be careful around those body lines. If you infringe on one you'll learn a lot about metalwork pretty quickly. Have fun and keep us posted on your progress!
 

theoldwizard1

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Bricago,

This video is geared towards machinist and is fairly detailed, but I find Marc to be easy to understand and logical in his explanations. Check it out:

The Lazy Machinist: Introduction to Ferrous Metals


Good video !

I think I got most everything right in my other post !
 
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Bricago

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Mar 2, 2013
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Location
Chicago
I appreciate the replies. I'm also looking for advice on removing the dents and creases in this toolbox. You can see the diagonal crease in the upper left side of the box. What would you use? Heat gun? Ball-peen hammer? Any technique advice would be great.
 

CudaChick1968

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Go to the junk yard and get an old steel body panel or a fender, beat the hell out of it with your hammer, and then fix it. And then do it again. :D It's your introduction to Bodywork 101 -- you'll learn a lot for little expense, discover which tools produce certain results, and you won't be intimidated when it comes time to repair something that matters.
 
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