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Help me with this cool old large pedestal grinder

PowerDubs

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Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
406
I know ZERO about 3 phase, but this grinder is local to me and looks awesome.

I can get it for $100.

HELP!!



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PowerDubs

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Jan 20, 2009
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406
Details please?

My brother in law is handy with electric, and wired up two 220 outlets in the garage to run my compressors. He is busy shuffling his kids to sports these days, and says my normal bench grinder is perfectly fine and I would be wasting my money on this.

I don't have any kids, and my garage/tools/cars/electronics/etc are my hobby..so I disagree. Even if he won't help me, I have no problem unplugging a compressor and plugging in this grinder when I need to use it.

Let me know what I need to do. I think it would be worth it. Correct me if I am wrong.
 

malibu101

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Jul 1, 2005
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3,908
Location
Walnutport PA
Since I have a rotary phase converter to make 3-phase for my air compressor I would take that for $100 in a heartbeat! A VFD would work fine too as outlawmws said.

Be prepared for the cost if you ever want to buy grinding wheels in that size!
 
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PowerDubs

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Jan 20, 2009
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406
Be prepared for the cost if you ever want to buy grinding wheels in that size!



Such as? Silly as it sounds, I've never bought a single grinding wheel, although I have had probably 4-5 grinders in my life. By the time I wear them down, I've somehow acquired another grinder.
 

PT Doc

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Nov 12, 2010
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3,197
My guess it's 12" or 14" wheels. Check out pricing on industrial sites like Zoro.fom or use-ENCO.com.
 
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wrenchguy

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Sep 22, 2011
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NW Indiana
does it work? buy it if can spare the space and have a use 4 it. it looks top heavy, the stand will have tobe bolted down
 

gtermini

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Feb 1, 2013
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533
Location
Amity, OR
Get off of here and go get the damn thing! A $75-100 static phase will run that thing just fine and not die from the grinding dust like a VFD will.

Greyson
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Location
Pacific Northwest
Powerdubs: most of the guys responding to your thread definitely know what they are talking about and a few of them own bigger grinders than the one you are looking at in their home shops.

yes the wheels are a bit more expensive so maybe try to find some at auctions or estate sales if you need a few down the road.

i'm not sure what the best method to run that grinder is if you don't have a 3 phase electrical system, but I've heard the VFD is the easiest. sounds like GT's method might work too.

if it runs buy it and if it doesn't see if you can give him $50 for the stand.
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
For you, I would probably pass. Unless you feel the stand/switch is worth the full price of the entire unit to you.
 

Carla

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Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
672
First, read the motor data plate carefully.

Most grinders, and, indeed, most all commonly found 3 phase motors are wired '9 lead', which means that they have wiring which is capable of being set up for either 220 (230) or 440 (460) volt AC.

Some older motors, and grinders, will be found cheaply as they are wired for '440' voltage only. Many industrial plants used 440 for their machines, so they'd see no reason to spend the little bit of additional $ for 'dual voltage' wired motors. This was also the case with Navy equipment used with 440V ship's power.

If the motor data plate reads '220/440', there should be another data plate with the spec for the way the nunber-tagged '9 lead' wires are to be connected for 'high' or 'low' voltage. If that tag is missing, don't worry, there is a near certainty that the common pattern, readily available, will be correct for your unit.

The other question is whether a grinder of that size is suitable for the work you do.

If its a bit inconveniently large for your work, but will run well on 220 3 phase, I'm sure that quite a few of the folks here would happily trade you a good single-phase 6" or 8" grinder, plus a bit of $, for that one.

Do consider one detail. It may be offered for sale cos its bearings are worn out. Replacing bearings is a relatively easy job, but still a good bit of work, considering cleanup and all.......if it can't be run on test, roll it by hand, and listen/feel closely.

Even with bearing replacement, its still worth that $100 if it will run well on 220, and its free from casting cracks from mis-handlng.

Do look very closely for handling damage, such as scars from having been dropped, or having been struck by a forklift. If you see a scar, look very closely for any crack near it.

If you do get it, and plan to use it, give the existing wheels a very close visual inspection, and 'ping' them to check for cracks. When first starting it, stand well away, and let it run for some time. Never use old grinding wheels without first carefully inspecting them. Its all too easy for a wheel to be struck by 'something' when a grinder is moved, and a tiny crack started, which will eventually 'blow' the wheel.

cheers

Carla
 
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