Help, my Bronco is dead

[LoneGunman]

My Bronco died on me this morning in a parking lot. It's a 1991, 351. When I turn the key the starter doesn't even attempt to crank, battery seems fine, if I turn my headlights on they do not dim when I try to crank it.

I thought it was an ignition switch problem because it has not been acting right, when I start the truck and release the key sometimes it does not move counterclockwise enough so my AC doesn't work.

There is a harbor freight in this shopping center so I bought a remote start, hooked it up from the positive terminal on the battery to the solenoid switch, when I pressed the button the wires (real thin to begin with) got really hot and so did the switch. I'm assuming my starter is bad and the wires got hot because the starter is seized and drawing to much current.

By using the remote switch I'm bypassing everything in the ignition circuit, can this be anything else other than a bad starter?

 

[peter_x]

You said sometimes your key doesn't move back far enough to the run position. It might have been stuck in start, leaving the starter working while you were driving. This might have been hard to hear.

It happened to my '88 Bronco, I caught it I think because I had the hood open at the time.

Edit: Check out www.fullsizebronco.com.

edit 2: I fixed it by spraying some WD40 in there.

 

[Delray]

Does this Ford have a remote solenoid under the hood? If so you can go from the battery + with a heavy battery jumper cable to the starter side of the solenoid. Make sure you are in park or neutral. Some of these solenoids engaged from ground so you would have to ground the small terminal to minus with the remote starter switch to activate it. I think you should hear the solenoid engage if it's working.

 

[engineboy]

What he said.

Adding to the above post, sometimes its not the actual switch that causes it to not return all the way. There are many parts in the column that are between the key tumbler and the switch. One of these parts is called the "bridge" it is cheap thin aluminum and when it splits it will cause this problem.

Its kind of a PITA to change if you dont know what you are doing. You have to disassemble the whole steering column to replace it.

I would make sure the starter is the problem, and after getting it to start again take a good look at why the key/tumbler is hanging up.

 

[LoneGunman]

What he said.

Adding to the above post, sometimes its not the actual switch that causes it to not return all the way. There are many parts in the column that are between the key tumbler and the switch. One of these parts is called the "bridge" it is cheap thin aluminum and when it splits it will cause this problem.

Its kind of a PITA to change if you dont know what you are doing. You have to disassemble the whole steering column to replace it.

I would make sure the starter is the problem, and after getting it to start again take a good look at why the key/tumbler is hanging up.

The ignition switch is the least of my problems right now, I'll fix it but first I need to get it running. Like I said in my original post, I tried using a remote start switch, which unless I'm mistaken, bypasses the ignition switch. By using the remote switch I applied 12v to the starter, the starter did nothing but the wires to the remote start switch became very hot.

Once again, when 12 volts is applied to the starter and the starter does not turn but the wires get hot what else could it be besides a bad starter?

Delray, I have done what you have suggested using a remote start switch.

 

[Delray]

If the starter and the solenoid check out alright you may want to next check the neutral safety switch. I think it's clutch activated on a stick or down on the column with an automatic. If that's ok check the ignition switch. This is generic advice as I don't remember exactly how this model Bronco is put together. MAKE DOUBLE OR TRIPLE SURE THE BATTERY IS GOOD!!!

 

[econoaddict]

If you did like you say it has to be a froze up starter or seized engine.

The starter should spin with full battery voltage supplied.

I would make sure the engine turns over by hand and if so then put a starter on.

 

[Delray]

Are you engaging the solenoid at the small terminal with the remote switch? I don't think it's heavy enough to go from the starter to the battery. You need a jumper cable. The remote switch would only be used to engage the solenoid.

 

[jay50]

If it is automatic, see if it will crank in neutral. Bump the shifter around a little while trying to crank; also jingle the key at the same time.


Ford is known for weak ignition switches for last 35 years, even on new cars.

 

[Bustawrench]

Both my '87 and '90 F-seires truucks used to do the same thing.

Find the solenoid under the hood, jump the two large terminals with a HEAVY screwdriver, if the starter bumps then it's good.

The problems with mine were allways one of two tings...........

1) the battery cables rot out down where you can't see it...sometimes the starter works, sometimes it don't.

2) The linkage in the steering colum get's out of whack, there is a rod that get's pushed down when you turn the key to "start" if it's off kilter, then nothing happens when you turn the key.............I used to take it to a mechanic friend of mine when this would happen and he would mess with it for ten minutes, then it would work for a year or two. Never cost me more than a twelve pack, so I never fixed it.

You could allways pull the starter and take it to AutoZone, they'll test it for you...........

 

[philw]

Are you engaging the solenoid at the small terminal with the remote switch? I don't think it's heavy enough to go from the starter to the battery. You need a jumper cable. The remote switch would only be used to engage the solenoid.

Agree!! You should be going from the battery to the small terminal. If you go from battery to heavy positive cable side of terminal then you will draw to much current for your remote wires and fry them.

If you were going to the small wire then you should hear a click from the solenoid. If not, then chances are the solenoid is bad.

If it clicks and the starter doesn't turn then it's probably the starter.

Your wires shouldn't be getting hot on your remote unless your holding the trigger down for a long time, but even then they may be warm but not hot unless it's pulling to much current.

This should bypass your ignition switch and column.

 

[LoneGunman]

I'm a *******, I hooked up the remote switch to the starter side of the ignition relay, I went back and hooked the remote switch to the ignition wire that goes to the ignition relay, it started right up so I believe my problem is in the ignition switch. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[RAYJAY]

also check on the starter there is a small wire that rots off with all the road salt and every thing my 94 f 150 does it all the time .


Jeff

 

[engineboy]

The ignition switch is the least of my problems right now, I'll fix it but first I need to get it running. Like I said in my original post, I tried using a remote start switch, which unless I'm mistaken, bypasses the ignition switch. By using the remote switch I applied 12v to the starter, the starter did nothing but the wires to the remote start switch became very hot.

Once again, when 12 volts is applied to the starter and the starter does not turn but the wires get hot what else could it be besides a bad starter?

Delray, I have done what you have suggested using a remote start switch.

Thats why I closed that post with "I would make sure the starter is the problem, and after getting it to start again take a good look at why the key/tumbler is hanging up."

 

[nightrain00]

It's not all that uncommon that the wire from the switch to the solenoid breaks by the fire wall I've had several that were like that.